L  I  B  RAR.Y 

OF  THE 

U  N  I  VLRSITY 
OF    I  LLI  NOIS 


X 


. 3 

xte 

Cop.  3 


1UJN«$  HISTORICAL  SURVEY 


ILLINOIS   IN   1837; 

A    SKETCH 

DESCRIPTIVE  OF  THE 

SITUATION,  BOUNDARIES,  FACE  OF  THE  COUNTRY, 

PROMINENT  DISTRICTS, 
PRAIRIES,  RIVERS,  MINERALS,  ANIMLAS, 

AGRICULTURAL  PRODUCTIONS, 

PUBLIC  LANDS,  PLANS  OF  INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENT, 
MANUFACTURES,  &c. 

OF   THE 

STATE    OF    ILLINOIS: 

ALSO, 

SUGGESTIONS   TO   EMIGRANTS, 

SKETCHES  OF  THE  COUNTIES,  CITIES,  AND  PRINCIPAL  TOWNS 
IN  THE  STATE: 

TOGETHER   WITH 

A  LETTER  ON  THE  CULTIVATION  OF  THE  PRAIRIES, 

BY  THE  HON.  H.  L.  ELLSWORTH. 

TO  WHICH  ARE  ANNEXED 

THE  LETTERS  FROM  A  RAMBLER  IN  THE  WEST. 


-It  is  a  goodly  sight  to  see 


What  Heaven  hath  done  for  this  delicious  land ! 
What  fruits  of  fragrance  blush  on  every  tree  ! 
What  goodly  prospects  o'er  the  hills  expand ! 

***** 
The  vine  on  high,  the  willow  branch  below, 
Mixed  in  one  mighty  scene,  with  varied  beauty  glow. 

Childe  Hardd',8  Pilgrimage. 


PHILADELPHIA: 
PUBLISHED  BY  S.  AUGUSTUS  MITCHELL, 

AND    BY 

GRIGG  &  ELLIOT,  No.  9,  N.  FOURTH  STREET. 
1837.  1 


Entered  according  to  the  act  of  congress,  in  the  year  1837,  by  S.  AUGUSTUS 
MITCHELL,  in  the  office  of  the  district  court  for  the  eastern  district  of  Penn 
sylvania. 


STEKEOTYPED  BY  J.  FAGAN PHILADELPHIA. 


977.3 


CONTENTS. 


Situation,  Boundaries,  Extent,  &c.  Page  9 

Face  of  the  Country,  Soil,  &c 10 

PRAIRIES 11 

Grand  Prairie 12 

Origin  of  the 13 

Breaking  up,  Cost  of,  &c 14 

Barrens 15 

Forest  or  Timbered  Land 16 

Bottom  Land 17 

American  Bottom 18 

Prominent  Districts 19 

MILITARY  BOUNTY  TRACT 19 

Situation  and  Extent 19 

Climate  of  the 21 

Adaptation    for    Agriculture    and 

Commerce 21 

Geological  Structure  of  the  Upland 

Prairies  of  the 22 

ROCK  RIVER  COUNTRY 22 

Fertility  v 23 

Objection* to  the 23 

Minerals  of 24 

Health  of  the 25 

Prospective  Improvement 25 

SANGAMON  COUNTRY 25 

Rapid  Settlement  of '. . .  25 

Superiority  of  the  Prairies  for  agri- 
cultural purposes 26 

Adaptation  for  raising  Stock 26 

Cultivation  of  the  Sugar  Beet  Root  26 

Results  in  France 27 

Historical  Anecdote 27 

RIVERS 28 

Mississippi 28 

Rock  River 31 

Kaskaskia 32 

Ohio  and  Tributaries 32 

Wabash  and  Tributaries 33 

Illinois  and  Tributaries 34 

Sangamon 36 

Minerals 37 

Animals,  Wild '38 

Domestic 41 

Wild  and  Cultivated  Fruits 43 

PRODUCTIONS  OF  THE  SOIL 43 

Corn,  Wheat,  &c 44 

Sugar  Beet  Root,  mode  of  cultiva- 
tion   44 

Climate 46 

Winds 47 

Diseases 47 

Civtl  Divisions  48 

ilTable  of  the  Area  and  Population  of  the 

Counties 48 

Government 50 


PUBLIC  LANDS 51 

System  of  Surveys 51 

Meridian  and  Base  Lines 51 

Diagram  of  a  Township  surveyed 
into  sections,  and  a  Section  into 

halves,  quarters,  &c 52 

Land  Districts  and  Offices 53 

Pre-emption  Rights,  Taxes,  &c. . .  54 

Plans  of  Internal  Improvement 55 

Manufactures 58 

EDUCATION 59 

Colleges,  &c 61 

Religion 62 

Suggestions  to  Emigrants 63 

<Tra veiling  Routes 64 

Location,  Method  of  Farming,  &c 68 

History 71 

COUNTIES 73 

Adams 73 

Alexander 73 

Bond 73 

Boone 74 

Calhoun 74 

Cass 74 

Champaign 75 

Clark 75 

Clay 75 

Clinton 75 

Coles 76 

Cook 76 

Crawford 76 

Edgar 76 

Edwards 77 

Effingham 77 

Fayette 77 

Franklin 77 

Fulton 78 

Gallatin 78 

Greene 7!) 

Hamilton 79 

Hancock 80 

Henry 80 

Iroquois 80 

Jackson  81 

Jasper  81 

Jefferson 81 

Jo  Daviess 82 

Johnson 82 

Kane 83 

Knox 84 

LaSalle 84 

Lawrence 85 

Livingston 86 

Macon 87 

Madison 87 


iv 

CONTENTS. 

M 

88                  flarrnlltnn  

...  118 

,,    .    P 

89 

.  .  .  119 

...  89 

...  121 

89 

...121 

APT 

90 

.  .  .  122 

Ttl 

91 

.  .  .  122 

92 

.  .  .  122 

92 

.  .  .  123 

92 

...  123 

93 

...  124 

94 

Mount  Carmel  

..  .  124 

97 

Naples  

.  .  .  125 

Pike    

97 

Ottawa  

.  .  .  125 

Pope                   

98 

Pekin  

.  ..  125 

99 

.  .  .  126  1 

101 

.  .  .  127 

102 

.  .  .  128 

103 

.  .  .  128 

105 

Springfield  

.  .  .  129 

Shelby  

105 

.  .  .  129 

SL  Clair  .•  

105 

.  .  .  129 

106 

Whitehall  

.  .  .  130 

106 

Winchester  

..  .  130 

Union  

107 

.    isn 

107 

LETTERS  FROM  A  RAMBLER  IN  THE  WEST  133 
No.  I. 
The  Journey               ...                1  33 

Wabash  

108 

\Varren  

108 

W^ashinffton  

109 

The  "  Far  West"  

134 

^Vayne  

109 

134 

White  

no 

Alton    

.  .    134 

Whiteside  

no 

.  .  .  135 

Will  

no 

No  II      Peru    

135 

^Vinnebajro.  «  •  '•  

....    Ill 

No.  III.  —  A  Snow-Storm  on 
Prairie  

the 
...  136 

NEW  COUNTIES  

112 

112 

No.  IV. 

...  138 

Coffee  

...'..  112 

De  Kalb  

.  .:•.  112 

Illinois  —  The  West  

.  .  .  138 

113 

No.  V.' 
The  East  —  The  West  

139 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS  

113 

V,  Alton  

113 

140 

115 

No.  VI. 

The  Acquisition  of  Wealth  .  . 

...  142 

142 

Belleville  

.  .  ..    116 

117 

118 

.    143 

% 

PREFACE. 


THE  immense  resources  of  the  Western  Country,  the  vast  increase  of 
wealth,  population,  and  influence  in  the  New  States,  have  long  been,  but 
are  more  particularly  at  the  present  time,  topics  of  great  and  increasing 
interest  throughout  the  whole  of  our  vast  Republic,  and  are  arresting  the 
attention  not  only  of  our  own  citizens,  but  of  the  inhabitants  of  foreign 
countries.  Such  are  the  admirable  facilities  of  the  West  for  trade,  such 
the  variety  and  fertility  of  its  soil,  the  number  and  excellence  of  its 
natural  products,  the  genial  nature  of  its  climate,  and  the  rapidity  with 
which  its  population  is  increasing,  that  it  has  become  an  object  of  the 
deepest  interest  to  every  American  patriot.  To  this  region  the  speculator 
is  attracted  by  the  increasing  value  of  property ;  the  politician  anticipates 
the  time  when,  through  the  ballot-box,  the  West  shall  rule ;  the  young  and 
enterprising,  turning  from  the  eager  competition  of  industry  and  talent  in 
the  older  states,  see  here  a  less  occupied  field  of  action;  the  philanthropist 
feels  a  benevolent  anxiety  for  the  intellectual,  moral,  and  religious  condi- 
tion of  a  population  thus  collecting  and  increasing,  and  destined  to  fill  the 
measure  of  our  national  glory.  The  greatness  and  importance  of  this 
region  is  bursting  into  vision  in  a  manner  scarcely  less  wonderful  to  the 
present  generation  than  was  American  prosperity  to  the  slowly  progressing 
European. 

A  single  glance  at  the  Map  of  the  United  States  will  show,  that  the  direc- 
tion of  our  government  will  shortly  be  in  the  hands  .of  the  people  of  the 
West.  The  thirteen  old  states  have  an  area  of  about  390,000  square  miles; 
while  only  eight  of  the  new  number  about  the  same,  and  the  whole  region, 
stretching  westward  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  contains  not  less  than  1,700,000 
square  miles  of  territory. 

No  state  in  the  Western  Country  has  attracted  more  attention  and  eli- 
cited so  many  inquiries  from  those  who  desire  to  avail  themselves  of  the 
advantages  of  a  settlement  in  a  new  and  rising  country,  as  that  of  Illinois; 
and  none  is  filling  up  so  rapidly  with  an  industrious  and  intelligent  popu- 
lation, from  every  part  of  our  extensive  country.  When  the  public  works, 
which  are  now  advancing  with  all  possible  speed,  are  completed  and  in 
successful  operation,  Illinois  will  vie  with  any  state  in  our  republic,  and 
no  doubt  excel  any  in  the  West,  in  the  amount  and  importance  of  those 
artificial  channels  of  intercourse  which  serve  to  connect  the  extremities 
of  our  wide-spread  territory,  and  bind  our  population  by  links  stronger 
than  iron,  by  lines  extending  thousands  of  miles. 

This  state  is  undoubtedly  the  richest  in  soil  of  any  in  the  Union,  and  of 


vi  PREFACE. 

course  holds  out  the  greatest  prospect  of  advantage  to  the  agriculturist. 
Here  is  ample  room  for  farmers,  there  being  still'vast  quantities  of  first- 
rate  land  extending  in  every  direction,  uncultivated,  which  may  be  had 
not  only  at  a  reasonable  but  a  cheap  rate,  and  one  acre  of  which  will  in  a 
majority  of  cases  produce  at  least  twice  as  much  as  the  same  amount  of 
land  in  most  of  the  eastern  states.  If  rural  occupations  are  pleasant  and 
profitable  anywhere  in  our  country,  they  must  be  peculiarly  so  in  Illinois; 
for  here  the  produce  of  the  farmer  springs  up  almost  spontaneously,  not 
more  than  one-third  of  the  labour  being  necessary  on  the  farms  here  thafr 
is  required  on  those  in  the  east. 

To  be  able  to  judge  of  the  extent  and  power  of  vegetation  in  this  region, 
one  must  reside  here  through  the  summer,  and  observe  with  what  luxu- 
riance and  vigour  the  vegetable  creation  is  pushed  on,  how  rapidly  the 
grain  rnol  fruits  grow,  and  what  a  depth  of  verdure  the  forests  assume. 
This  state,  having  a  vast  extent  of  the  most  fertile  land,  must  of  course 
raise  with  the  greatest  ease  all  the  articles  to  which  her  soil  and  climate 
are  favourable.  By  her  long  line  of  coast  on  the  Mississippi,  rarely  hin- 
dered from  being  navigable  by  the  lowness  of  the  water,  Illinois  has  facili- 
ties for  conveying  her  products  to  market  which  the  states  situated  on 
the  Ohio  have  not.  From  her  immense  prairies,  and  boundless  summer 
range  for  stock,  she  has  advantages  for  raising  cattle  and  horses  superior 
to  those  of  the  other  western  districts. 

A  gentleman  travelling  in  the  state  of  Illinois  remarks,  in  a  letter  to  :a 
friend  from  Springfield  of  March  2,  1837: — "  Our  '  far  west'  is  improving 
rapidly,  astonishingly.  It  is  five  years  since  I  visited  it,  and  the  changes 
within  that  period  are  like  the  work  of  enchantment.  Flourishing  towns 
have  grown  up,  farms  have  been  opened,  and  comfortable  dwellings,  fine 
barns  and  all  appurtenances,  steam-mills  and  manufacturing  establish- 
ments erected,  in  a  country  in  which  the  hardy  pioneer  had  at  that  time 
sprinkled  a  few  log  cabins.  The  conception  of  Coleridge  may  be  realized 
sooner  than  he  anticipated :  '  The  possible  destiny  of  the  United  States  of 
America,  as  a  nation  of  a  hundred  millions  of  freemen — stretching  from 
the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  living  under  the  laws  of  Alfred,  and  speaking 
the  language  of  Shakspeare  and  Milton,  is  an  august  conception — why 
should  we  not  wish  to  see  it  realized  1'  On  the  subject  of  internal  improve- 
ments the  young  giant  of  the  West  is  making  herculean  efforts.  A  bill 
passed  the  legislature,  a  few  days  since,  appropriating  eight  million  of  dol- 
lars for  rail-roads,  canals,  &c. ;  works  which  when  completed  will  cost 
twenty  millions.  On  Monday  last  another  bill  was  passed,  transferring 
the  seat  of  government  from  Vandalia  in  Fayette  county  to  this  place — 
Springfield — which  is  in  the  fertile  district  of  Sangamon  county,  and  as 
near  as  may  be  the  geographical  centre  of  the  state,  and  soon  will  be  the 
centre  of  population.  There  will  be  but  one  more  session  at  Vandalia. 

"  The  state  of  Illinois  has  probably  the  finest  body  of  fertile  land  of  any 
state  in  the  Union,  and  the  opportunities  for  speculation  are  numerous. 
Property  will  continue  to  advance,  admirable  farms  and  town-lots  may  be 
purchased  with  a  certainty  of  realizing  large  profits.  The  country  here 


PREFACE.  vii 

is  beautiful — equal  in  native  attractions,  though  not  in  classic  recollections, 
to  the  scenes  I  visited  and  admired  in  Italy.  The  vale  of  Arno  is  not  more 
beautiful  than  the  valley  of  Sangamon,  with  its  lovely  groves,  murmuring 
brooks  and  flowery  meads — 

1  Oh  Italy,  sweet  clime  of  song,  where  oft 

The  bard  hath  sung  thy  beauties,  matchless  deemed. 

Thou  hast  a  rival  in  this  western  land !' " 

To  give,  at  the  least  possible  expense,  a  brief  and  yet  satisfactory  ac- 
count of  Illinois,  its  prominent  natural  features  and  productions,  plans  of 
internal  improvement,  prospects  and  advantages  for  emigrants,  political 
subdivisions,  cities,  towns,  travelling  routes  to  and  from  various  points, 
&c.,  is  the  object  of  the  following  sketch.  Those  who  are  about  to  remove 
to  this  state,  or  who,  for  business,  pleasure,  or  health,  intend  to  visit  it,  or 
who  are  interested  in  its  welfare  and  expect  to  profit  by  its  prosperity, 
will  probably  find  "ILLINOIS  IN  1837"  occasionally  useful  as  a  work  of  refer- 
ence. Individuals  well  acquainted  with  the  state,  who  have  travelled 
extensively  through  it,  and  whose  opportunities  have  enabled  them  to 
become  conversant  with  its  districts,  counties,  towns,  &c.,  or  who  have 
carefully  perused  the  various  publications  illustrative  of  it,  may  not  meet 
with  any  thing  that  they  did  not  know  before.  Those  less  informed,  how- 
ever, will,  it  is  hoped,  find  a  perusal  of  the  work  add  something  to  the 
stock  of  information  already  acquired  respecting  the  region  in  question. 
Such  are  now  the  facilities  of  intercommunication  between  the  eastern 
and  western  states,  and  to  the  most  prominent  points  in  the  Mississippi 
valley,  that  thousands  are  visiting  parts  of  this  interesting  section  of  the 
Union,  every  month  and  week.  Some  knowledge  of  the  different  travel- 
ling routes  that  lead  to  the  various  portions  of  it  will  no  doubt  be  desira- 
ble to  all  who  mean  to  journey  in  that  direction. 

The  bulk  of  the  information  hereafter  detailed  is  quite  recent,  being 
derived  in  part  from  the  lately  published  and  valuable  Gazetteer  of  Illinois, 
and  the  Emigrant's  Guide,  by  the  Rev.  J.  M.  Peck ;  also,  from  Flint's 
Geography  and  History  of  the  Western  States,  Beck's  Gazetteer  of  Elinois 
and  Missouri,  Schoolcraft's  Travels,  and  the  works  of  Darby,  Hall,  Long, 
&c.  The  work  contains,  likewise,  extracts  from  different  correspondents, 
and  from  various  gazettes  printed  in  the  state,  some  of  them  only  a 
few  weeks  before  its  publication;  particularly  the  Peoria  Register  and 
North- Western  Gazetteer,  the  attention  bestowed  by  the  editor  of  which 
in  distributing  recent  geographical  and  local  information  calculated  to  be 
useful  to  emigrants,  renders  it  undoubtedly  the  most  interesting  print  of 
the  kind  in  the  state. 

The  accompanying  Map  of  Illinois  is,  for  its  scale,  probably  the  most 
complete  yet  published ;  it  contains,  it  is  believed,  all  the  United  States 
surveys  available  at  this  time;  the  whole  of  the  counties,  seventy  in  num- 
ber, organized  in  the  state ;  and  will  be  found,  on  examination,  to  corre- 
spond with  the  descriptive  part  of  the  book, — a  desideratum  not  always 
found  in  publications  of  this  kind. 


PREFACE. 


The  first  72  pages  are  devoted  to  the  illustration  of  the  Natural  Geogra- 
phy, Minerals,  Animal  and  Vegetable  Productions  of  the  State,  also  its 
Civil  Divisions,  Public  Lands,  Plans  of  Internal  Improvements,  Manufac- 
tures, Education,  &c.,  Suggestions  to  Emigrants,  Travelling  Routes, 
Remarks  on  Location  and  Manner  of  Building  in  newly-settled  Coun- 
tries. The  next  58  pages  are  occupied  with  a  descriptive  sketch  of  the 
Counties,  Cities  and  Towns  in  Illinois ;  the  remainder  of  the  work  is  filled 
up  with  a  Letter  from  the  Hon.  H.  L.  Ellsworth  on  the  Cultivation  of  the 
Prairies,  together  with  the  Letters  of  a  Rambler  in  the  West.  The  latter 
are  from  the  pen  of  a  talented  young  Philadelphian,  who  travelled  in  Illi- 
nois in  the  early  part  of  the  present  year ;  they  are  written  in  a  pleasing 
and  spirited  manner,  and  contain  a  great  deal  of  local  information,  inter- 
spersed with  piquant  remarks  and  interesting  observations.  The  inform- 
ation in  Mr.  Ellsworth's  letter  on  the  advantages  and  cultivation  of  the 
prairie  lands  in  the  Western  States,  is  well  calculated  to  interest  those 
whose  views  are  turned  in  that  direction ;  and  the  remarks  and  state- 
ments are  declared  by  those  editors  of  Western  papers  who  have  repub- 
lished  the  letter,  to  be  the  most  valuable  and  accurate  that  they  have 
seen. 


GENERAL  VIEW 


OF 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS. 


SITUATION,  BOUNDARIES,  EXTENT,  &c. 

THK  rich  and  highly  favoured  region  forming  the  State  of  Illinois  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  the  Territory  of  Wisconsin,  east  by  lake  Michigan  and  the  states  of 
Indiana  and  Kentucky,  south  by  the  latter  state,  and  west  by  the  states  of  Missouri 
and  the  Territory  of  Wisconsin.  It  extends  north  and  south  from  37°  to  42°  30' 
north  latitude,  and  east  and  west  from  10°  32'  to  14°  33'  longitude  west  from  Wash- 
ington City.  Its  extreme  length  is  380  miles;  its  breadth  in  the  north  is  about 
145  miles,  but  it  extends  in  the  centre  to  220  miles,  whence  it  contracts  towards 
the  south  to  a  narrow  point.  The  area  of  the  whole  state,  including  that  part  of 
Lake  Michigan  belonging  to  it,  is  about  59,000  square  miles,  of  which  50,000 
square  miles,  or  thirty-two  millions  of  acres,  are  considered  to  be  capable  of  culti- 
vation. 

The  Act  of  Congress  admitting  this  state  into  the  Union  prescribes  the  bounda- 
ries as  follows:  beginning  at  the  mouth  of  the  Wabash  river,  thence  up  the  middle 
of  the  main  channel  thereof  to  the  point  where  a  line  drawn  due  north  of  Vin- 
cennes  last  crosses  that  stream,  thence  due  north  to  the  north-west  corner  of  the 
state  of  Indiana,  thence  east  with  the  boundary  line  of  the  same  state  to  the  middle 
of  Lake  Michigan,  thence  due  north  along  the  middle  of  said  lake  to  north  lati- 
tude 40°  30',  thence  west  to  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  river,  thence  down  the 
middle  of  the  main  channel  thereof  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  river,  thence  up  the 
latter  stream  along  its  northern  or  right  shore  to  the  place  of  beginning.  The 
outline  of  the  state  is  in  extent  about  1160  miles,  the  whole  of  which,  except  305 
miles,  is  formed  by  navigable  waters. 

As  a  physical  section,  Illinois  occupies  the  lower  part  of  that  inclined  plane  of 
which  Lake  Michigan  and  both  its  shores  are  the  higher  sections,  and  which  is 
extended  into  and  embraces  the  much  greater  part  of  Indiana.  Down  this  plane, 
in  a  very  nearly  south-western  direction,  flow  the  Wabash  and  its  confluents,  the 
Kaskaskia,  the  Illinois  and  its  confluents,  and  the  Rock  and  Wisconsin  rivers.  The 
lowest  section  of  the  plane  is  also  the  extreme  southern  angle  of  Illinois,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Ohio  river,  about  340  feet  above  tide-water,  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
Though  the  state  of  Illinois  does  contain  some  low  hilly  sections,  as  a  whole,  it 
I  may  be  regarded  as  a  gently  inclining  plane  in  the  direction  of  its  rivers,  as 
j  already  indicated.  Without  including  minute  parts,  the  extreme  arable  elevation 
may  be  safely  stated  at  800  feet  above  tide-water,  and  the  mean  height  at  550. 

"  In  some  former  period,"  observes  Mr.  Schoolcraft,  "  there  has  been  an  obstruc- 
tion in  the  channel  of  the  Mississippi,  at  or  near  Grand  Tower,  producing  a  stag- 
nation of  the  current  at  an  elevation  of  about  130  feet  above  the  present  ordinary 
water-mark.  This  appears  evident  from  the  general  elevation  and  direction  of  the 
hills,  which  for  several  hundred  miles  above  are  separated  by  a  valley  from  20  to 
25  miles  wide,  that  deeply  embosoms  the  current  of  the  Mississippi."  Wherever 
these  hills  exhibit  rocky  and  abrupt  fronts,  a  series  of  water-lines  are  distinctly 
visible,  and  preserve  a  remarkable  parallelism  uniformly  presenting  their  greatest 


10  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


depression  towards  the  sources  of  the  river ;  and,  at  Grand  Tower,  these  water- 
lines  are  elevated  about  one  hundred  feet  above  the  summit  of  the  stratum  in  which 
petrifaction  of  the  madrepora  and  various  fossil  organic  remains  are  deposited. 
Here  the  rocks  of  dark-coloured  limestone,  which  pervade  the  country  to  a  great 
extent,  by  their  projections  towards  each  other,  indicate  that  they  have,  at  a  remote 
period,  been  disunited,  if  not  by  some  convulsion  of  nature,  by  the  incessant  action 
of  the  water  upon  a  secondary  formation,  and  that  a  passage  has  been  effected 
through  them,  giving  vent  to  the  stagnant  waters  on  the  prairie  lands  above,  and 
opening  for  the  Mississippi  its  present  channel. 

The  bank  of  the  Mississippi  from  the  vicinity  of  Grand  Tower,  extending  up- 
wards on  the  Missouri  side  of  the  river,  is  sufficiently  elevated  above  the  surface 
of  the  State  of  Illinois  to  have  formed  a  western  shore  of  an  expanse  of  water, 
covering  its  present  area.  And  the  alluvial  deposits  of  which  the  prairies  are 
formed,  are  composed  of  fine,  hard,  and  compact  layers  of  earth,  similar  to  those 
at  the  bottom  of  mill-ponds  of  water  long  stagnant. 

FACE  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 

Next  to  Louisiana  and  Delaware,  Illinois  is  the  most  level  state  in  the  Union. 
A  small  tract  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state  is  hilly,  and  the  northern  portion  is 
also  somewhat  broken.  There  are  likewise  considerable  elevations  along  the  Illi- 
nois river,  and  the  bluffs  of  the  Mississippi  in  some  places  might  pass  almost  for 
mountains.  But  by  far  the  greater  proportion  of  the  state  is  either  distributed  in 
vast  plains,  or  in  barrens,  that  are  gently  rolling  like  the  waves  of  the  sea  after  a 
storm.  We  may  travel  on  the  wide  prairies  for  days,  without  encountering  an 
elevation  that  is  worthy  to  be  called  a  hill.  In  no  part  of  the  peopled  divisions  of 
the  United  States,  are  there  such  great  sections  of  prairie  country.  One  vast  prai- 
rie, with  very  little  interruption,  spreads  from  the  snores  of  the  Mississippi  to  those 
of  Lake  Michigan. 

On  the  route  from  Cincinnati  to  St.  Louis,  the  great  road  passes  through  this 
state,  in  its  whole  extent  of  width.  More  than  100  miles  of  it  is  high,  dry,  and 
rich  prairie.  In  all  this  distance,  the  margins  of  the  streams  are  almost  the  only 
places  where  timbered  land  is  found ;  and  the  streams  have  only  narrow  skirts  of 
wood.  The  first  stratum  of  soil  in  this  wide  extent  of  country,  is  a  black,  friable, 
and  sandy  loam,  of  from  two  to  five  feet  in  thickness.  The  next  is  a  red  clay, 
mixed  with  fine  sand,  and  from  five  to  ten  feet  in  thickness.  The  third  is  a  hard 
blue  clay  of  a  beautiful  appearance,  and  a  greasy  feeling,  mixed  with  pebbles,  and, 
when  exposed  to  the  air,  emitting  a  fetid  smell.  The  soil  is  of  the  finest  quality. 
In  the  season  of  flowers,  the  eye  and  all  the  senses  receive  the  highest  gratifica- 
tion. In  the  time  of  strawberries,  thousands  of  acres  are  reddened  with  the  finest 
quality  of  this  delicious  fruit. 

Between  Carlisle  and  St  Louis,  an  extent  of  50  miles,  we  meet  with  woods, 
streams,  lime-stone  ledges,  and  a  rolling  country ;  although  we  cross  an  occa- 
sional prairie,  quite  to  the  American  Bottom.  On  the  north  of  this  road,  and  be- 
tween it  and  the  Illinois,  the  surface  is  generally  more  irregular.  Much  of  the 
country  may  be  termed  broken.  The  hills  abound  with  stone-coal.  A  range  of 
heights  commences  at  the  bluffs  that  bound  the  American  Bottom,  near  Kaskaskia, 
and  stretches  north-east  ward  ly  through  the  state  towards  Lake  Michigan.  A  noble 
limestone  bluff  breaks  off,  almost  at  right  angles  to  this  chain,  and  stretches  along 
the  margin  of  the  American  Bottom  to  the  point  nearly  opposite  the  Missouri. 
This  bluff  has,  in  many  places,  a  regular  front  of  perpendicular  limestone,  not  un- 
frequently  30()  feet  high.  Another  line  of  river  bluffs  commences  opposite  the 
mouth  of  the  Missouri,  and  reaches  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois.  Opposite  Portage 
des  Sioux,  these  bluffs  shoot  up  into  detached  points  and  pinnacles,  which,  with  the 
hoary  colour  jof  the  rocks,  have,  at  a  distance,  the  appearance  of  the  ancient  spires 
and  towers  of  a  town.  This  chain  of  bluffs  marks  the  limits  of  the  alluvion  of 
the  Illinois.  As  along  the  Mississippi,  the  face  of  this  grand  work  of  nature  is 
frequently  perpendicular.  When  the  limits  of  the  alluvion  are  marked  on  one 
side  by  this  wall,  on  the  opposite  side  they  are  bounded  by  a  succession  of  singular 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  11 


hills,  parallel  to  each  other,  called  by  the  French  mamelles.  What  is  singular  is, 
that  a  beautiful  prairie  is  seen  on  that  side  which'  is  bounded  by  the  perpendicular 
bluffs ;  and  a  thick,  tangled,  and  heavily  timbered  bottom  on  the  side  of  the  river 
that  is  marked  with  these  mamelles.  When  the  prairie  is  found  on  the  right  or 
the  left  of  the  river,  so  are  all  these  accompaniments :  and  they  regularly  alter- 
nate, being  found  first  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other. 

PRAIRIES. 

Undoubtedly  the  most  remarkable  feature  of  the  state  of  Illinois  is  its  extensive 
prairies,  or  un wooded  tracts.  They  begin  on  a  comparatively  small  scale  in  the 
basin  of  lake  Erie,  and  already  form  the  bulk  of  the  land  about  lake  Michigan,  the 
Upper  Wabash,  and  the  Illinois ;  but  on  the  west  of  the  Mississippi  they  are  more 
predominant ;  or  rather,  the  whole  of  this  tract  may  be  described  as  prairie  inter- 
sected by  patches  of  woodland,  chiefly  confined  to  the  river  valleys.  The  charac- 
teristic peculiarity  of  the  prairies  is  the  absence  of  timber;  in  other  respects,  they 
present  all  the  varieties  of  soil  and  surface  that  are  found  elsewhere ;  some  are 
of  inexhaustible  fertility,  others  of  hopeless  sterility ;  some  spread  out  in  vast, 
boundless  plains,  others  are  undulating  or  rolling,  while  others  are  broken  by  hills. 
In  general,  they  are  covered  with  a  rich  growth  of  grass,  forming  excellent  natural 
meadows,  from  which  circumstance  they  take  their  name. 

The  Indians  and  hunters  annually  set  fire  to  the  prairies,  in  order  to  dislodge  the 
game :  the  fire  spreads  with  tremendous  rapidity,  and  presents  one  of  the  grandest 
aud  most  terrible  spectacles  in  nature.  The  flames  rush  through  the  long  grass 
with  a  noise  like  thunder ;  dense  clouds  of  smoke  arise ;  and  the  sky  itself  appears 
almost  on  fire,  particularly  during  the  night  Travellers  then  crossing  the  prairie 
are  sometimes  in  serious  danger,  which  they  can  only  escape  by  setting  fire  to  the 
grass  around,  and  taking  shelter  in  the  burnt  part,  where  the  approaching  flame 
must  expire  for  want  of  fuel.  Nothing  can  be  more  melancholy  than  the  aspect 
of  a  burnt  prairie,  presenting  a  uniform  black  surface,  like  a  vast  plain  of  charcoal. 
A  prejudice  at  one  time  prevailed  against  the  prairies,  as  not  being  fit  for  cultiva- 
tion ;  but  this  was  found  to  be  erroneous,  and  they  are  more  in  request,  as  it  \A  a 
most  important  object  to  save  the  labour  of  clearing  the  wood. 

Prairie  is  a  French  word,  signifying  meadow,  and  is  applied  to  any  description 
of  surface  that  is  destitute  of  timber  and  brushwood,'  and  clothed  with  grass.  Wet, 
dry,  level,  and  undulating,  are  terms  of  description  merely,  and  apply  to  Dairies  in 
the  same  sense  as  they  do  to  forest  lands. 

The  prairies  of  Illinois  may  be  classed  under  three  general  divisions ; — the 
healthy,  or  bushy;  the  alluvial,  or  wet?  and  the  dry,  or  undulating.  Those  desig- 
nated healthy,  have  springs  of  water,  and  are  covered  with  bushes  of  hazel  and 
furze,  small  sassafras  shrubs,  interspersed  with  grape-vines,  and  in  the  season  of 
flowers  become  beautifully  decorated  by  a  rich  profusion  of  gay  herbaceous  plants. 
Early  in  March  the  forests  are  in  blossom,  and  the  brilliant  red  tufts  of  the  Judas 
tree  (cercis  canadensis)  handsomely  exhibit  its  charms.  The  Lonicera  Flava,  or 
yellow-flowered  honeysuckle,  diffuses  its  pleasing  fragrapce,  and  the  lovely  yellow 
jasmine,  or  Jasminum  fruticans,  impregnates  the  air  with  its  delicious  perfume; 
and  a  vast  variety  of  other  odoriferous  plants  are  passively  engaged  in  the  faithful 
discharge  of  their  offices,  either  of  display,  or  of  the  emission  of  their  well-flavored 
odours.  The  bushes  are  often  over-topped  with  the  Humulus  Lupulus,  or  common 
hop. 

Of  the  healthy  prairies  these  lines  of  the  poet  are  highly  descriptive. 

Travellers  ent'ring  here  behoM  around 

A  large  and  spacious  plaiu  on  every  side, 
Strewed  with  beauty,  whoee  fair  grassy  ground, 

Mantlod  with  green,  and  goodly  beautified, 

With  all  the  ornamenfs  of  Flora's  pride. 

The  alluvial,  or  wet  prairies,  are  generally  on  the  margins  of  the  great  water- 
courses, though  sometimes  they  art)  at  a  distance  from  them ;  their  soil  is  deep, 


12  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


black,  friable,  and  of  exhaustless  fertility ;  excellent,  in  apposite  latitudes,  for  wheat 
and  maize,  but  grapes  hitherto  have  not  been  cultivated  with  much  success,  yet,  as 
those  that  are  wild  grow  luxuriantly,  it  can  hardly  be  doubted  that  a  hybridous 
species  formed  from  a  union  of  one  of  these  natives  and  the  exotic  vine,  would 
prove  prolific  of  estimable,  fruit 

From  May  to  October,  the  prairies  are  covered  with  tall  grass  and  flower-pro- 
ducing weeds.  In  June  and  July,  they  seem  like  an  ocean  of  flowers  of  various 
hues,  waving  to  the  breezes  which  sweep  over  them.  The  numerous  tall  flower- 
ing shrubs  and  vegetables  which  grCw  luxuriantly  over  these  plains,  present  a 
striking  and  delightful  appearance. 

The  dry  or  undulating  prairies  are  almost  destitute  of  springs  and  of  all  vege- 
tation, with  the  exception  of  weeds,  flowers,  and  grass.  The  undulations  are  so 
slight  that,  to  the  eye,  the  surface  has  almost  the  appearance  of  an  uninterrupted 
level,  though  the  ravines  made  by  freshets  show  that  there  is  a  considerable  degree 
of  inclination.  In  the  prairie  region  there  arc  numerous  ponds,  formed  some  from 
the  surface  water,  the  effect  of  rain,  and  the  melting  of  the  snows  in  the  spring, 
and  others  near  the  rivers  from  their  overflowing.  In  these  are  deposited  great 
quantities  of  the  various  kinds  of  fishes  common  in  the  western  streams,  which, 
after  the  waters  subside,  are  frequently  taken  away  by  cart-loads,  affording  to  the 
residents  in  the  vicinity  abundance  of  animal  food  almost  without  labour:  those 
that  are  left,  when  their  element  becomes  evaporated,  attract  thousands  of  buzzards, 
who  prey  on  and  devour  them.  Herds  of  deer  bound  over  these  plains. 

These  are  the  Gardens  of  the  Desert — these 

The  unshorn- fields,  boundless  and  beautiful, 

And  fresh  as  the  yaujig  earth  ere  man  had  sinned. 

The  Prairies'} -I  benoM  them  for  the  first. 

And  my  heart  swells,  while  the  dilated  sight    • 

Takqgjn  the  encircling  vastness.    Lo!  they  stretch 

In  airyvuudulations,  far  away, 

As  if  the  oeean,  in  his  gentlest  swell, 

Stood  still,  with  all  his  rounded  billows  fixed, 

And  motionless  forever. — Motionless? — 

No — they  're  all  unchained  again.    The  clouds 

Sweep  over  with  their  shadows,  and  beneath 

The  surface«rolls  and- fluctuates  to  the  eye: 

Dark  hollovw  seem  to  glide  along,  and  chase 

The  sunny  ndges. 

In  the  southern  part  of  the  state,  the  prairies  are  comparatively  small,  varying 
in  size,  from  those  of  several  miles  in  extent,  to  those  which  contain  only  a  few 
acres.  As  we  go  northward,  they  widen  and  extend  on  the  more  elevated  ground 
between  the  'vater-courses  to  a  vast  distance,  and  are  frequently  from  six  to  twelve 
miles  in  width.  Their  borders  are  by  no  means  uniform,  but  are  intersected  in 
every  direction  by  strips  of  forest  land  advancing  into  and  receding  from  the  prai- 
rie towards  the  water-courses,  whose  banks  are  always  lined  with  timber,  princi- 
pally of  luxuriant  growth.  Between  these  streams,  in  many  instances,  are  copses 
and  groves  of  timber,  containing  from  100  to  2000  acres,  in  the  midst  of  the  prai- 
ries, like  islands  in  the  ocean.  This  is  a  common  feature  in  the  country  between 
the  Sangamon  river  and  Lake  Michigan,  and  in  the  northern  parts  of  the  state. 
The  lead-mine  region,  both  in  this  state§ and  the  Wisconsin  Territory,  abounds  with 
these  groves. 

The  largest  tract  of  prairie  in  Illinois  is  denominated  the  Grand  Prairie.  Under 
this  general  name  is  embraced  the  country  lying  between  the  waters  which  fall 
into  the  Mississippi,  and  those  which  enter  the  Wabash-  rivers.  It  does  not  consist 
of  one  vast  tract,  boundless  to  the  vision,  and  uninhabitable  for  want  of  timber,  but 
is  made  up  of  continuous  tracts,  with  points  of  timber  projecting  inward,  and  long 
arms  of  prairie  extending  between  the  creeks  and  smaller  streams.  The  southern 
points  of  the  Grand  Prairie  are  formed  in  Ihe  north-eastern  parts  of  Jackson  county, 
and  extend  in  a  north-eastern  course  between  the  streams,  of  various  widths,  from 
one  to  ten  or  twelve  miles,  through  Perry,  Washington,  Jefferson,  Marion,  the 
eastern  part  of  Fayette,  Effingham,  through  '.he  western  part  of  Coles  into  Cham- 
paign and  Iroquois  counties,  where  it  becomes  connected  with  the  prairies  that  pro- 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  13 


ject  eastward  from  the  Illinois  river  and  its  tributaries.  A  large  arm  lies  in  Ma- 
rion county,  between  the  waters  of  Crooked  creek  and  the  east  fork  of  the  Kaskas- 
kia  river,  where  the  Vincennes  road  passes  through  in  its,  longest  direction.  This 
part  alone  is  frequently  called  the  Grand  Prairie. 

Much  the  largest  part  of  the  Grand  Prairie  is  genth^pflulating,  rich,  and  fertile 
land  ;  but  of  the  southern  portion,  considerable  tracts  4^B0aMuid  of  ratfier  inferior 
soil.  No  insurmountable  obstacle  exists  to  its  1'uUirJjj^Bflp.  No  portion  of  it 
is  more  than  six  or  eight  miles  distant  from  timber;  ui^fccHfl  abundance  is  found 
in  various  parts.  Those  who  have  witnessed  the  clrt^g^JH&oduced  upon  a  prairie 
surface  within  twenty  or  thirty  years,  consider  these  extensive  prairies  as  offering 
no  serious  impediment  to  the  future  growth  of  the  state. 

On  the  origin  of  the  prairie  lands  it  is  difficult  tb'decide :  various  speculations 
have  arisen  from  this  subject,  giving  rise  to  a  diversity  of  opinions.  The  level 
surface  of  the  state  of  Illinois  (according  to  the  ideas  of  many)  was  formed  by 
inundations.  The  whole  of  the  state,  from  a  few  miles  north  of  the  Ohio  river, 
where  the  prairies  commence,  affords  tolerably  conclusive  evidence  of  having  been 
once  covered  with  water,  forming  probably  a  large  lake  similar  to  Lakes  Michigan, 
Erie,  &c.  When  the  lowest  point  near  the  Grand  Tower  perhaps  was  worn  away, 
so  as  to  drain  the  waters  offj  it  was  left  with  a  rich  soft  muddy  surface  nearly  level, 
as  we  may  suppose  is  the  case  in  the  present  lakes.  When  this  soft  soil'  was 
drenched  with  rains,  the  waters,  gathering  into  little  rills  as  they  descended  to  the 
lowest  parts,  would  intersect  the  soft  soil,  and  finally  wear  away  much  of  the  rich 
surface :  hence  we  see  the  elevated  parts  the  most  fertile,  while  the  lower  and 
more  broken  and  timbered  land  is  the  pooreafcjotijPt 

From  whatever  cause  the  prairies,lt  firsLJK^imted,  they  arc  undoubtedly  per- 
petuated by  the  autumnal  fires  that  Ifeve  jHpally  swept  Jper  them  from  an  eja 
probably  long  anterior  to  the 'earliest  recaps  c<t  histurjuy^ppng  the  streams,  and 
in  other  places  where  vegetation  does,  n^Jsufler  i'rom-thu  liroi^jht  of  the  latter  part 
of  summer  and  early  autumn,  and  of  corfHe  becomes  sejjrfendJlombustible  less  soon 
than  it  does  in  the  plains  which  are  drierithe  tire  flbMTOLJafc'oach  much;  conse- 
quently the  forests  prevail  there,  and  probably  gradually  increase  in  some  places 
upon  the  prairies.  As  soon  as  these  are  ploughed,  and  the  heavy  grass  kept  under, 
young  timber  begins  to  sprout,  particularly*such  as  is  produced  by  winged  seeds, 
as  cotton-wood,  sycamore,  &c.  Where  the  soil  is  either  too  poor  or  too  wet  to 
produce  a  heavy  annual  growth  of  grass  sufficient  tonnake  a  strong  fire,  there  is 
no  prairie. 

It  is  well  known  that  in  the  richest  and  most  dry  and  level  tracts,  the  aboriginal 
inhabitants,  before  they  had  the  use  of  fire-arms,  were  in  the  habit  of  enclosing 
their  game  in  circular  fires,  in  order  that  it  might  bewilder  and  frighten  the  ani- 
mals, and  thus  render  them  an  easy  prey. 

When  Captain  John  Smith  visited  the  Chesapeake,  he  found  extensive  prairies, 
and  first  bore  witness  to  the  practice  of  circular  fires  as  a  mode  of  hunting  among 
the  savages.  These  tracts  having  been  early  inhabited  and  cultivated  by  the 
colonists,  the  prairies  have  long  since  disappeared.  Probably  one-half  of  the 
earth's  surface  in  a  state  of  nature  consisted  of  prairies  or  barrens;  much  of  it,  like 
our  western  prairies,  was  covered  with  a  luxuriant  coat  of  grass  and  herbage.  The 
steppes  of  Central  Asia,  the  pampas  and  llanos  of  Buenos  Ayres  and  Venezuela, 
the  savannahs  of  Louisiana  and  Texas,  and  the  prairies  of  the  Western  States, 
designate  similar  tracts  of  country.  Mesopotamia,  Syria,  and  Judea,  had  their 
ancient  prairies,  on  which  the  Patriarchs  fed  their  flocks.  Missionaries  in  Burmah, 
and  travellers  in  the  interior  of  Africa  and  New  Holland,  mention  the  same  descrip- 
tion of  country.  The  late  Mungo  Park  describes  the  annual  burning  of  the  plains 
of  Manding,  in  Western  Africa,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  prairies  of  the  Western 
States ;  and  the  practice  is  attended  with  the  same  results,  the  country  being,  in 
short,  covered  with  a  luxuriant  crop  of  young  and  tender  grass,  on  which  the  cat- 
tle feed  with  avidity. 

Where  the  tough  sward  of  the  prairie  is  once  formed,  timber  will  not  easily  take 
root;  destroy  this  by  the  plough  or  by  any  other  method,  and  it  is  soon  converted 
into  forest  land.  There  are  large  tracts  of  country  in  the  older  settlements  where 

a 


14  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


a  number  of  years  ago  the  farmers  mowed  their  hay,  that  are  now  covered  with  a 
forest  of  young  timber  of  rapid  growth. 

As  soon  as  timber  or  orchards  are  planted  in  the  prairies,  they  grow  with  unex- 
ampled luxuriance.  A  correspondent  writes  from  Adams  county,  that  "locust 
trees  planted,  or  rather  sown,  on  prairie  land  near  Quincy,  attained  in  four  years 
a  height  of  twenty-five  feet,  and  their  trunks  a  diameter  of  from  four  to  five  inches; 
these  grew  in  close  crowded  rows,  affording  a  dense  and  arboury  shade.  In  a  few 
instances  where  the  same  kind  of  trees  had  been  planted  out  in  a  more  open  man- 
ner, they  grew  in  the  same  period  to  a  thickness  of  six  inches,  and  in  from  seven 
to  ten  years  from  their  planting,  have  been  known  to  attain  sufficient  bulk  to  make 
posts  and  rails."  „ 

Dr.  Beck,  in  his  Gazetteer  of  Missouri,  published  in  1823,  describes  the  uplands 
of  St  Louis  county  as  "generally  prairie;"  but  almost  all  of  that  tract  of  country 
thus  described  is  now  covered  with  a  young  growth  of  fine  thrifty  timber,  and  it 
would  be  difficult  to  find  an  acre  of  prairie  in  the  county.  This  important  change 
has  been  produced  by  keeping  the  fires  out  of  the  prairies. 

The  first  improvements  are  usually  made  on  that  part  of  the  prairie  which 
adjoins  the  timber ;  and  thus  we  may  see,  at  the  commencement,  a  range  of  farms 
circumscribing  the  entire  prairie  as  with  a  belt  The  burning  of  the  prairies  is 
then  stopped  the  whole  distance  of  the  circuit  in  the  neighbourhood  of  these  farms, 
to  prevent  injury  to  the  fences  and  other  improvements.  This  is  done  by  plough- 
ing two  or  three  furrows  all  round  the  settlement  In  a  short  time  the  timber 
springs  up  spontaneously  on  all  the  parts  not  burnt  and  the  groves  and  forests 
commence  a  gradual  encroachment  on  the  adjacent  prairies ;  by-and-by  you  will 
see  another  tier  of  farms  springing  up  on  the  outside  of  the  first,  and  farther  out  in 
the  prairie ;  and  thus  farm  succeeds  farm,  as  the  timber  grows  up,  until  the  entire 
prairie  is  occupied.y*^,^ 

The  correspondent  quoted  above  saygj — "  In  breaking  up  prairie  land,  &c.,  for 
cultivation,  we  usually  plough  with  tnie  or  four  yoke  of  oxen ;  the  shear  plough 
turning  up  about  eighteen  to  twenty-four  inches  of  turf  at  a  furrow,  in  breadth, 
and  from  three  to  four  inches  deep,  the  sod  turning  entirely  over,  so  as  to  lay  the 
grass  down,  and  it  fits  furrow  to  furrow  smoothly  enough  to  harrow  and  sow  wheat. 
It  is  usual  to  break  it  up  in  May,  and  drop  corn  along  the  edge  of  every  fourth 
row.  This  is  called  sod  corn.  No  working  or  ploughing  is  necessary  the  first 
season.  The  sod  is  left  lying  for  the  grass  to  decay ;  and  after  the  next  winter's 
frost,  it  crumbles  and  becomes  light  and  friable.  The  sod  corn  does  not  make 
more  than  half  a  crop,  and  is  cut  up,  stalk  and  all  together,  and  stacked  up  for 
fodder  for  stock.  The  next  year  the  crop  of  corn  is  most  abundant,  averaging  50 
bushels  per  acre ;  well  cultivated  wheat,  25  to  30  bushels ;  rye,  25  to  35 ;  and  oats, 
from  40  to  60  bushels  per  acre.  Potatoes  (Irish),  hay  (timothy),  and  all  the  dif- 
ferent garden  vegetables  yet  tried,  yield  most  abundantly.  A  man  here  can  tend 
double  the  quantity  of  corn  that  he  can  in  newly  settled  timbered  countries,  there 
being  no  stumps  to  obstruct  the  plough  or  hoe. 

"  The  cost  of  breaking  up  an  acre  of  prairie  is  from  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  to 
two  dollars;  fencing,  say  forty  acres,  eight  rails  high,  stake  and  rider,  6000  rails 
and  stakes,  $100 ;  cabin,  $20 ;  say,  forty  acre  field  broke  up  and  fenced,  and  cabin, 
$200,  cost  of  the  land  $50;  total,  $250:  then  worth,  in  my  opinion,  $500.  Timber, 
it  is  feared,  will  be  scarce ;  but  I  think  differently.  No  one  has  yet  felt  the  want 
of  it;  nor  will  they,  because  it  grows  so  fast  and  also  because  the  quantity  at  pre- 
sent is  sufficient  for  twenty  million  acres  of  prairie,  being  the  estimated  quantity 
of  good  prairie  land  in  this  state.  The  prairies  are  generally  from  one  to  six  miles 
in  width;  of  course,  about  three  miles  is  the  farthest  distance  from  timber,  and  the 
prairie  constitutes  the  finest  natural  road  possible  to  haul  on.  The  settlements  are 
at  present  chiefly  confined  to  the  margins  of  the  timber  and  prairie. 

"  The  prairie  lands  are  undoubtedly  worth  from  $10  to  $15  per  acre  more  for 
forming  than  those  that  are  timbered,  not  only  because  they  are  richer,  but  because 
it  would  take  at  least  that  sum  per  acre  to  put  the  timbered  lands  of  Ohio  and 
Indiana  in  the  same  advanced  state  for  cultivation." 

The  prairies  are  the  highest  as  well  as  the  most  level  land,  and  the  roads  gene- 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  15 


rally  pass  through  the  middle  of  them,  from  whence  there  is  an  easy  slope  on  each 
side,  at  first  barely  sufficient  to  drain  the  waters  towards  the  sides  of  the  prairies, 
or  to  the  nearest  point  of  timber.  Here  all  around  you,  in  the  proper  season,  may 
be  seen  the  rich  luxuriant  grass,  from  two  to  three  feet  high,  suitable  for  hay,  and 
mowed  by  the  farmers  for  that  purpose.  In  the  midst  of  the  prairie,  the  houses 
and  fields  of  the  settlers  are  seen  diminished  like  a  picture  along  the  skirts  and 
points  of  the  forest 

But  few  have  as  yet  settled  out  in  the  middle  of  the  prairie,  unless  where  the 
road  crosses,  on  account  of  the  distance  from  timber  to  build  fence,  &c.  Those 
who  have  done  so  have  invariably  found  It  to  their  interest;  and  the  practice  will 
no  doubt  in  a  short  time  become  general,  until  the  whole  of  the  extensive  prairies 
of  Illinois  will  be  covered  with  valuable  and  productive  farms.  The  middle  of  the 
prairie  is  not  only  the  highest  and  most  level,  but  is  greatly  the  most  fertile  land. 
As  the  surface  descends  towards  the  timber,  it  has  an  increased  unevenness  a^nd 
ruggedness,  and  the  greater  the  descent  in  perpendicular  depth,  the  less  fertile  is  the 
soil. 

Early  in  the  mornings,  when  a  mist  is  on  the  ground,  the  fog  appears  all  around 
the  skirts  of  the  timber  in  the  lowest  places.  Hence  it  is  not  so  healthful  on  the 
edges  of  the  prairie,  or  in  the  forest,  as  on  the  middle  or  highest  part  of  the  prairie. 
Another  advantage  possessed  by  residents  on  the  latter  is  the  facility  with  which 
excellent  water  is  procured  at  a  depth  of  from  not  more  than  15  to  20  feet; 
whereas,  along  the  broken  borders  and  spurs  near  the  timber,  the  common  flepth 
of  the.  wells  is  from  40  to  50  feet. 

The  grass  which  covers  the  prairies  in  great  abundance  is  tall,  and  coarse  in 
appearance.  In  the  early  stages  of  ijg  growth,  it  resembles  young  wheat ;  and  in 
this  state  ftirnishes  a  succulent  and  rich  food  for  cattle.  They  nave  been  seen, 
when  running  in  wheat-fields,  where  the  young  wheat  covered  the  ground,  to 
choose  the  prairie-grass  on  the  margins^'  the  fields  in  preference  to  the  wheat. 
It  is  impossible  to  imagine  better  butter  than  is  made.-while  the  grass  is  in  this 
stage.  Cattle  and  horses,  that  have  lived  unsheltered  and  without  fodder  through 
the  winter  and  in  the  spring,  scarcely  able  to  mount  a  hillock  through  leanness 
and  weakness,  when  feeding  on  this  grass,  are  transformed  to  a  healthy  and  sleek 
appearance,  as  if  by  a  charm. 

BARRENS. 

A  description  of  country  called  "  barrens,"  or  "  oak  openings,"  prevails  to  some 
extent  in  Illinois.  This  term  is  used  in  the  west  to  designate  a  species  of  land 
which  partakes,  as  it  were,  at  once  of  the  character  of  the  forest  and  prairie.  The 
surface  is  generally  dry  and  more  uneven  than  the  prairies,  and  is  covered  with 
scattered  oaks,  interspersed  at  times  with  pine,  hickory,  and  other  forest  trees, 
mostly  of  stunted  and  dwarfish  size,  but  which  spring  from  a  rich  vegetable  soil, 
admirably  adapted  to  the  purposes  of  agriculture.  They  rise  from  a  grassy  turf, 
seldom  incumbered  with  brushwood,  but  not  unfrequently  broken  by  jungles  of  rich 
and  gaudy  flowering  plants,  and  of  dwarf  sumach.  Among  the  oak  openings  you 
find  some  of  the  most  lovely  landscapes  of  the  west,  and  travel  for  miles  and  miles 
through  varied  park  scenery  of  natural  growth,  with  all  the  diversity  of  gently 
swelling  hill  and  dale ; — here  trees  grouped  or  standing  single,  and  there  arranged 
in  long  avenues,  as  though  by  human  hands,  with  strips  of  open  meadow  between. 
Sometimes  the  openings  are  interspersed  with  numerous  clear  lakes,  and  with  this 
addition  become  enchantingly  beautiful.  But  few  of  these  reservoirs  having  appa- 
rent inlet  and  outlet,  they  are  fed  by  subterraneous  springs,  or  the  rains,  and  lose 
their  surplus  waters  by  evaporation. 

In  the  early  settlements  of  Kentucky,  much  of  the  country  below  and  south  of 
Green  river  presented  a  dwarfish  and  stunted  growth  of  timber,  scattered  over  the 
surface,  or  collected  in  clumps,  with  hazle  and  shrubbery  intermixed.  This  appear- 
ance led  the  first  explorers  to  the  inference  that  the  soil  itself  iqust  necessarily  be 
poor,  to  produce  so  scanty  a  growth  of  timber,  and  they  gave  the  name  of  "  barrens" 
to  the  whole  tract  of  country.  Long  since  it  has  been  ascertained  that  this  descrip- 


16  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


tion  ofland  is  amongst  the  most  productive  soil  in  the  state.  The  term  "  barren" 
has  since  received  a  very  extensive  application  throughout  the  west. 

Wherever  timber  barely  sufficient  tor  present  purposes  can  be  found,  a  person 
need  not  hesitate  to  settle  in  the  barrens.  These  tracts  are  almost  invariably 
healthful;  they  possess  a  greater  abundance  of  pure  springs  of  water,  and  the  soil 
is  better  adapted  For  all  kinds  of  produce,  and  all  descriptions  of  seasons,  wet  and 
dry,  than  the  deeper  and  richer,  mould  of  the  bottoms  and  prairies. 

When  the  hres  are  stoned,  these  barrens  produce  timber,  at  a  rate  of  which  no 
northern  emigrant  can  Mye  any  just  conception.  When  timber  begins  to  grow 
on  the  prairies,  they  asgeme  the  character  of  barrens,  first  hazel,  and  other  shrubs, 
and  finally  a  thicket  of  young  timber  covers  the  surface. 

X 

FOREST  OR  TIMBERED  LAND. 

In  general,  Illinois-  is  abundantly  supplied  with  timber,  and  were  it  equally  dis- 
tributed through  the  state  there  would  be  no  part  wanting.  The  apparent  scarcity 
of  timber  where  the  prairie  predominates,  is  not  so  great  an  obstacle  to  the  settle- 
ment as  has  been  supposed.  For  many  of  the  purposes  to  which  timber  is  applied, 
substitutes  are  found.  The  rapidity  with  which  the  young  growth  pushes  itself 
forward,  without  a  single  effort  on  the  part  of  man  to  accelerate  it,  and  the  readi- 
ness with  which  the  prairie  becomes  converted  into  thickets,  and  then  into  a  forest 
of  young  timber,  shows  that,  in  another  generation,  timber  will  not  be  wanting  in 
any  part  of  Illinois. 

The  growth  of  the^ottom  lands  consists  of  black  walnut,  ash  of  several  species, 
hackberry  elm  (white,  red  -and  slippery),  sugar-maple,  honey-locust,"  buck-eye, 
catalpa  sycamore,  cotfonwood,  pecan,  hickory,  mulberry ;  several  oaks — as,  over- 
cup,  burr-oak,  swamp  .or  water  oa^Jr  white,  red,  or  Spanish  oak;  and  of  the  shrub- 
bery are  red-bud,  papaw, 'grape- vine,  dogwood,  spice-bush,  hazel,  greenbrier,  &c. 
Along  the  margin  of  the  streams  the  syctmore  and  cottonwood  often  predominate, 
and  attain  to  an  amazing  size,  f  The  cottonwood  is  of  rapid  growth,  a  light,  white 
wood,  sometimes  used  forVaSs,  shingles,  and  scantlings;  not  lasting,  and  of  no 
great  value.  Its'  dry,  light  wood  is  much  used  in  steamboats.  It  forms  the  chief 
proportion  of  the  drift  wood  that  floats  down  the  rivers,  and  is  frequently  converted 
into  planters,  snags,  and  sawyers.  The  sycamore  is  the  buttonwood  of  New  Eng- 
land, is  frequently  hollow,  and  in  that  state  procured  by  the  farmers,  cut  at  suitable 
lengths,  cleaned  but,  and  used  as  depositories  for  grain.  They  answer  the  pur- 
pose of  large  casks.  The  size  of  the  cavity  of  some  of  these  trees  appears  in- 
credible in  the  ears  of  a  stranger  to  the  luxuriant  growth  of  the  west  To  say 
that  twenty  or  thirty  men  could  be  comfortably  lodged  in  one,  would  seem  a  mon- 
strous fiction  to  a  New  Englander,  but  to  those  accustomed  to  this  species  of  tree 
on  the  bottoms,  it  is  nothing  marvellous. 

The  uplands  are  covered  with  various  species  of  oak,  amongst  which  is  the  post- 
oak,  a  valuable  and  lasting  timber  for  posts ;  white  oak,  black  oak  of  several  varie- 
ties, and  the  black  jack,  a  dwarfish  gnarled  looking  tree,  good  for  nothing  but  fuel, 
for  which  it  is  equal  to  any  tree  we  have:  of  hickory,  both  the  shagbark  and 
smoothbark,  black  walnut  in  some  parts,  white  walnut  or  butternut,  Lynn,  cherry, 
and  many  of  the  species  produced  in  the  bottoms.  The  black  walnut  is  much 
used  for  building  materials,  and  cabinet  work,  and  sustains  a  fine  polish.  The 
different  species  of  oaks,  walnuts,  hackberry,  and  occasionally  hickory,  are  used 
for  fencing. 

In  some  parts  of  the  state  the  white  and  yellow  poplar  prevails.  Beginning  at 
the  Mississippi,  a  few  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Muddy  river,  and  extending  a 
line  across  the  state  to  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Wabash,  leaves  the  poplar  range 
south,  interspersed  with  occasional  clumps  of  beach.  Near  the  Ohio,  on  the  low 
creek  bottoms,  the  cypress  is  found.  No  poplar  exists  on  the  eastern  borders  of 
the  state  till  you  arrive  at  or  near  Palestine  ;  while  on  the  opposite  shore  of  the 
Wabash,  in  Indiana,  the  poplar  and  beach  predominate.  Near  Palestine,  in  Craw- 
ford county,  the  poplar  again  commences,  intermixed  with  beach  and  all  the  varie- 
ties of  timber,  and  extends  northward  further  than  has  been  explored.  A  spur  of  it 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  17 


puts  into  the  interior  of  the  state,  on  the  Little  Wabasb— above  Maysville.  Occa- 
sional clumps  of  stunted  cedar  are  to  be  seen  on  the  ^MLthat  overhang  the  bot- 
toms, but  no  pine,  unless  it  exists  in  the  wild  regions^^^^K  Lake  Michigan. 

Timber  not  only  grows  much  more  rapidly  in  this  country  than  in  the  northen 
states,  but  it  decays  sooner  when  put  in  building?,  fences,  o^is  in  any  way  ex- 
posed to  the  weather.  It  is  more  porous,  and  \\ill  shrini?  and  expand,  as  the 
weather  becomes  wet  or  dry,  to  a  much  greater  etfcent  than^the  timber  of  New 
England.  This  may  be  owing  partly  to  the  atmosphere,  -but  it  is  unquestionably 
owing  in  part  to  the  quality  of  the  timber.  The  t'onces  require  to  he  newly  laid,  and 
one  third  of  the  rails  provided  anew,  in  a  period  of  from  seven  to  ten  years.  A 
shingled  roof  requires  replacing  in  about  twelve  years.T^'rhis,  however,  may  not 
be  a  fair  estimate,  because  most  of  the  timber  is  prepared  hastily,  and  in  a  green 
state.  Doubtless  with  proper  care  in  the  seasoning  and  in  the  preservation  it 
would  last  much  longer.  Timber  is  ordinarily  required  for  four  purposes :  fencing, 
building,  fuel,  and  mechanical  operations.  Rails  is  almost  the  only  article  used 
for  fencing.  In  making  a  plantation  in  this  mode,  there  is  a  great  waste  of  tim- 
ber; nor  will  a  man  with  a  moderate  capital,  and  with  the  burden  of  an  increasing 
family,  stop  to  make  experiments.  He  must  have  fields  enclosed,  and  takes  the 
quickest  and  cheapest  method  by  cutting  down  the  most  convenient  timber  and 
making  rails.  •  * 

The  first  buildings  put  up  are  cabins  made  of  logs,  slightly  hewrjjpn  two  sides, 
and  the  corners  notched  together.  They  are  made  single  or  double  with  a  space 
between,  according  to  the  enterprize,  ability,  or  taste  of  the  owner ;  and  the  chim- 
ney is  built  of  sticks  of  wood  plastered  with  mud  <pr  .clay  nrortar.  The  next  step 
in  advance  is  a  log  house.  This  is  also  made  of  logs  mqre"  accurately  hewn  on 
two  sides  than  those  of  the  cabin,  with  a  fram%d»  or  shingle  roof,  and  a  brick  or 
stone  chimney;  all  the  out-houses  are  .at  first  put  up  in  the  same  manner.  It  is 
perfectly  obvious  that  this  mode  of  building- sweeps  off  vast  quantities  of  timber, 
that  by  a  more  judicious  and  economical  plan  would  be  saved  for  other  purposes, 
In  a  few  years  brick,  and  in  some  instances  stone,,  will  take  the  place  of  these  rude 
and  misshapen  piles  of  timber.  This  begins  to  take  effect,  to  a  considerable  ex- 
tent, in  those  counties  where  the  people  have  obtained  the  means,  for  brick  and 
frame  houses  are  fast  erecting.  The  substratum  of  the,  soil  in  any  place  is  excel- 
lent for  brick,  and  in  many  of  the  bluffs  inexhaustible  quantities  of  limestone  exist. 
The  waste  of  timber  for  buildings  then  will  be  greatly  lessened,  as  the  country 
advances  in  improvement,  population,  and*  wealth. 

As  in  all  countries  where  the  population  have  been  accustomed  to  burn  excessive 
quantities  of  wood  before  they  emigrate,  and  where  they  live  in  cold  and  open 
cabins,  there  is  a  great  waste  of  timber  for  fuel.  This  will  be  remedied  as  the 
people  obtain  close  and  comfortable  dwellings,  and  make  use  of  proper  economy  in 
this  article.  In  almost  every  direction  through  the  country  there  are  inexhaustible 
stores  of  stone-coal  near  the  surface  of  the  earth.  There  is  fuel  for  domestic  pur- 
poses and  for  steam-engines,  without  limits. 

It  will  be  perceived  that  Illinois  does  not  labour  under  as  great  inconveniences 
for  timber,  as  many  have  supposed.  If  provision  is  made  for  the  first  fifty  years, 
future  supplies  will  be  abundant  Timber  may  be  artificially  produced  with  little 
trouble  or  expense,  and  to  an  indefinite  extent.  The  black  locust,  a  native  growth 
of  Ohio  and  Kentucky,  may  be  raised  from  the  seed  with  far  less  labour  than  a 
nursery  of  apple-trees  ;  and  as  it  is  of  very  rapid  growth,  and  a  valuable  and  last- 
ing timber  for  fencing,  buildings,  and  boats,  it  must  claim  the  attention  of  farmers. 
|  Already  it  forms  one  of  the  cleanliest  and  most  beautiful  shades,  and  when  in 
blossom  presents  a  rich  prospect,  and  a  most  delicious  fragrance. 

BOTTOM  LANDS,  OR  ALLUVION. 

The  term  "bottom"  is  used  throughout  the  west  to  denote  the  alluvial  soil  on 
the  margin  of  rivers,  usually  called  "  intervals"  in  the  eastern  states.  Portions  of 
this  description  of  land  are  flowed,  for  a  longer  or  shorter  period,  when  the  rivers 
are  full.  Probably  one  tenth  of  the  bottom  lands  are  of  this  description  ;  for  though 


18  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


the  water  may  not  stand  for  any  length  of  time,  it  prevents  settlement  and  culti- 
vation, though  it  does  nd|^kerrupt  the  growth  pf  timber  and  vegetation.  These 
tracts  are  on  the  bottom^Ftlie  Wabash,  Ohio,  Mississippi,  Illinois,  and  all  the  in- 
terior rivers. 

When  the  rivals  ris^  above  their  ordinary  height,  the  waters  of  the  smaller  ! 
streams  whU>h  are  backed  up  by  the  freshets  of  the  former,  break  over  their  banks, 
and  cover  rfu  the  low  ground^  Here  they  stand  for  a  few  days,  or  for  many  weeks, 
especially  towards  tneikitfri;  for  it  is  a  striking  fact  in  the  geology  of  the  western 
country,  that  all  the  river  bottoms  are  higher  on  the  margins  of  the  streams  than 
at  some  distance  back.  Whenever  increase  of  population  shall  create  a  demand 
for  this  species  of  soil,  IK  most  of  it  can  be  reclaimed  at  comparatively  small  ex- 
pense. Its  fertility  will  be  inexhaustible,  and  if  the  waters  from  the  rivers  could 
be  shut  out  by  dykes  or  levees,  the  soil  would  be  perfectly  dry.  Most  of  the  small 
lakes  on  the  American  Bottom  disappear  in  the  summer,  and  leave  a  deposit  of 
vegetable  matter  undergoing  decomposition,  or  a  luxuriant  coat  of  weeds  and  grass. 

As  the  prairies  mostly  lie  between  the  streams  that  drain  the  country,  the  inte- 
rior of  the  large  ones  is  usually  level.  Here  are  formed  small  ponds  and  lakes 
after  the  winter  and  spring  rains,  which  remain  to  be  drawn  off  by  evaporation,  or 
absorbed  by  the  soil.  Hence  the  middle  of  the  large  level  prairies  arc  wet,  and 
for  several  we^ks  portions  of  them  are  covered  with  water.  To  remedy  this  in- 
convenfencelfompletely,  and  render  all  this  portion  of  soil  dry  and  productive,  only 
requires  fl  dirch  or  drain  of  two  or  three  feet  deep  to  be  cut  into  the  nearest  ravine. 
In  many  instances,  a  single  furrow  with  the  plough  would  drain  many  acres.  At 
present  this  species  ortnundatejj  land  offers  no  inconvenience  to  the  people,  except 
in  the  production  of  miasm,  and  even  that,  perhaps,  becomes  too  much  diluted  with 
the  atmosphere  to  produce  miscU.ieF  before  it  reaches  the  settlements  on  the  bor- 
ders of  the  prairie.  Hence  the  inference  is  correct  that  the  inundated  lands  pre- 
sent fewer  obstacles  to  the  settlipient  and  growth  of  the  country,  and  can  be  re- 
claimed at  much  less  expense,  thkn  the  swamps  and  salt  marshes  of  the  Atlantic 
states. 

The  surface  of  the  alluvial  bottoms  is  not  entirely  level.  In  some  places  it  re- 
sembles alternate  waves  of  the  ocean,  and  looks  as  though  the  waters  had  left  their 
deposit  in  ridges,  and  retired.  The  portion  of  bottom  land  capable  of  present  cul- 
tivation, and  on  which  the  waters  never  stand,  if,  at  any  extreme  freshet,  it  is  cov- 
ered, is  a  soil  of  exhauetlf  3  fertility ;  a  soil  that  for  ages  past  has  been  gradually 
deposited  by  the  annual -floods.  Its  average  depth  on  the  American  Bottom  is  from 
twenty  to  twenty-five  feet.  Logs  of  wood,  and  other  indications,  are  fonnd  at 
that  depth.  The  soil  dug  from  wells  on  these  bottoms,  produces  luxuriantly  the 
first  year. 

The  most  extensive  and  fertile  tract,  of  this  description  of  soil,  in  this  state,  is 
the  American  Bottom,  a  name  it  received  when  it  constituted  the  western  boundary 
of  the  United  States,  and  which  it  has  retained  ever  since.  It  commences  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Kaskaskia  river  with  the  Mississippi,  and  extends  northwardly  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Missouri ;  being  bounded  on  the  east  by  a  chain  of  bluffs,  which 
in  some  places  are  sandy  and  in  others  rocky,  and  which  vary  from  50  to  200  feet 
in  height. '  This  bottom  is  about  80  miles  in  length,  and  comprises  an  area  of 
about  450  square  miles,  or  288,000  square  acres.  On  the  margin  of  the  river  is  a 
strip  of  heavy  timber,  with  a  rank  undergrowth  :  this  extends  from  a  half  to  two 
miles  in  width,  and  from  thence  to  the  bluffs  is  generally  prairie.  No  soil  can  ex- 
ceed this  in  fertility,  many  parts  of  it  having  been  under  cultivation  for  more  than 
a  century  without  the  least  apparent  deterioration. 

The  only  objection  that  can  be  offered  to  this  tract,  is  its  unhealthiness.  This 
arises  from  the  circumstance  of  the  lands  directly  on  the  margin  of  the  river  being 
higher  than  those  under  the  bluffs  where  the  water,  after  leaving  the  former,  sub- 
sides, and  forms  ponds  and  lagoons,  which  during  the  summer  stagnate  and  throw 
off  noxious  effluvia.  These',  however,  might  at  a  trifling  expense  be  drained  by 
lateral  canals  communicating  with  the  rivers. 

The  first  settlement  of  this  state  was  commenced  upon  the  tract  of  land  above 
described,  and  its  uncommon  fertility  gave  emigrants  a  favourable  idea  of  the 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS. 


1!) 


whole  country.  Cultivation  has  no  doubt  rendered  this  tract  more  salubrious  than 
formerly :  and  the  extension  of  agriculture,  together  with  the  construction  of 
drains  and  canals,  will  make  it  one  of  the  most  eligible  in  the  States.  The  old 
inhabitants  advise  the  emigrants  not  to  plant  corn  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
their  dwellings,  as  its  exuberant  foliage  prevents  the  sun  from  dispelling 'the  dele- 
terious vapours. 

Coal  exists  in  abundance  on  this  alluvion,  and  the  bluffs  which  bound  it.  It  has 
been  mined  to  some  extent  for  several  years  past,  and  carried  to  St.  Louis.  The 
quantity  hauled  there  in  wagons  in  1836  amounted  to  about  300,000  bushels.  A 
rail-road  is  now  making  from  the  coal-mines  to  the  Mississippi  river  opposite  St. 
Louis,  for  the  purpose  of  expediting  the  transportation  of  the  mineral  to  that  city. 
At  the  mine  a  new  town  is  about  to  be  laid  out,  called  Pittsburg.  Besides  the 
American  Bottom,  there  are  other  tracts  which  resemble  it  in  its  general  character, 
but  which  are  much  less  extensive. 

It  would  lead  to  a  particularity  beyond  the  limits  of  this  sketch,  to  go  into  a  de- 
tailed description  of  all  the  bodies  of  excellent  land  in  Illinois.  For  not  only  here, 
but  all  over  the  Western  Country,  the  lands  seem  to  be  distributed  in  bodies,  either 
of  rich  or  sterile,  level  or  broken  lands.  The  Military  Bounty  Tract,  the  country 
on  Rock  river,  the  Sangamon  country,  &c.,  are  all  familiarly  spoken  of  for  their 
beauty  and  fertility,  and  have  each  their  advocates,  who,  swayed  by  various  predi- 
lections, extol  the  advantages  of  thafcsectios  Iff  which  they  are  attached.  On  the 
Illinois,  the  Kaskaskia,  the  Fox  river,  on  the  Kankakee,  and  the  Embarras,'  between 
the  Great  and  Little  VVabash,  and  on  all  the  considerable  streams  of  this  state, 
there  are  large  bodies  of  first-rate  lands.  On  the  Grand  Prairie,  the  Mound  Prai- 
rie, the  prairie  upon  which  the  Marine  Settlement  is  located,  and  that  occupied  by 
the  society  of  Christians  from  New  England*,  are  exceedingly  rich  tracts.  The 
following  description  of  the  Military  Bounty  Lands,  the  Rock  river  country,  and 
the  region  on  the  Sangamon  river,  will  give  some  idea  of  the  situation,  natural  fea- 
tures, productions,  capacities  for  settlements,  &c.,  of  each  district. 


MILITARY  BOUNTY  TR 

The  region  generally  denominated  the  Military  Bounty  Tract,  was  surveyed 
during  the  years  1815  and  1816,  and  the  greater  part  sijbseq'uciitly  appropriated  in 
bounties  to  the  soldiers  of  the  regular  army,  who  served  in  the  late  war  between 
the  United  States  and  Great  Britain.  It  is  situated  between  ilie  rivers  Mississippi 
and  Illinois,  and  extends  from  their  junction  due  .north  by  a  nleridian  line,  denomi- 
nated the  fourth^rincipal  meridian,  169  miles,  presenting  an  irregular  curvilinear 
triangle,  the  acute  angle  of  which  is  at  the  junction  of  these  two  rivers.  From 
this  point  the  tvVo  rivers  diverge,  so  as  to  make  a  distance  of  90  miles  between  the 
extreme  points  of  the  northern  boundary.  Half-way  between  the  extremes,  the 
width  is  64  miles.  The  base  line  running  due  east  an$  Vlest,  and  commencing 
seven  miles  above  Quincy  on  the  Mississippi,  and  terminating  at  the  Illinois,  about 
four  miles  below  Beardstown,  intersects  the  fourth,  principal  meridian  at  right 
angles  73  miles  above  the  junction  of  the'  Mississippi  and  Illinois  rivers,  and  is  52 
miles  long.  The  whole  tract,  according  to  the  public  surveys,  contains  207  entire 
townships,  of  six  miles  square,  and  61  fractional  townships,  containing  together 
5,360,000  acres,  of  which  3,500,000  have  been  appropriated  in  military  bounties. 
The  residue  consists  partly  of  fractional  sections,  bordering  on  the  rivers,  partly  of 
fractional  quarter-sections,  bordering  on  the  township  lines,  containing  more  or  less 
than  160  acres,  and  partly  of  lands  that  were  returned  by  the  public  surveyors  as 
unfit  for  cultivation  ;  but  there  are  also  large  reservations  not  coming  within  the 
above  exception,  being  the  overplus  of  lands  after  satisfying  the  military  claims, 
subject  to  entry  and  purchase  as  other  congress  lands. 

this  tract  of  country  lies  between  38°  54',  and  41°  407  of  north  latitude,  and  13° 
west  longitude  from  Washington  City,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north-west  for  255 
miles  by  the  Mississippi  river,  and  for  about  the  same  distance  on  the  south-east  by 
the  Illinois.  Thus  do  these  two  great  rivers,  in  their  diverging  course,  with  Rock 
river  approximating  from  the  north,  form  a  spacious  peninsula,  furnishing  a  border 


20  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


to  the  bounty  land^  by  a  sheet  of  navigable  waters  for  steamboats  more  than  500 
miles  in  extent-Jeaving  no  part  of  the  tract  more  than  45  miles,  and  the  greater 
part  not  exceeding,-^  mi:es  from  steamboat  navigation. 

The  water 'communication  now  about  to  be  completed  between  the-  Mississippi 
and  the  lakes,  by  means.ot'the  Illinois  and  Chicago  canal,  must  eventually  greatly 
increase  the  value  of  the  bounty  lands,  by  affording  a  choice  of  markets  for  their 
products,  either  at  Chicago,  Detroit,  Buffalo,  New-York,  Montreal,  or  Quebec,  by 
way  of  the  Illinois, canal  and  the  lakes,  or  by  the  natural  channels  of  the  rivers  at 
St.  Louis  and  NewsQrleans. 

In  the  interior  of  the  tract,  and  traversing  it  in  various  directions,  are  several 
rivers  and  creeks  of  les$£onsequence,  in  a  commercial  point  of  view,  than  those 
great  water-courses  which  form  its  boundary  lines,  but  nevertheless  of  great  utility 
in  other  respects  to  the  settlements  in  their  vicinity.  Of  these,  Spoon,  Henderson, 
Edwards,  and  Pope's  rivers,  and  Crooked,  Kickapoo  or  Red  Bud,  Copperas,  Otter, 
M'Kee's,  M'Craney's,  Hadley's,  Mill,  and  Bear  creeks,  are  the  most  considerable. 
There  are  also  many  other  smaller  streams,  generally  tributaries  to  those  already 
mentioned,  affording  sufficient  power  for  mills  and  other  machinery. 

Considerable  bodies  of  timber  are  to  be  found  on  the  margins  of  all  these  streams, 
with  but  few  exceptions,  the  lands  of  which  are  generally  broken,  and  the  soil  not 
so  productive  as  that  of  the  adjacent  prairies.  And  it  may  be  remarked  in  general, 
in  relation  to  the  bluffs  of  the  Mississippi  and  Illinois,  as  well  as  those  upon  the 
smaller  riven^  that  they  exhibit  a  surface  too  rough  to  be  cultivated,  and  a  soil  too 
thin  for  successful  tillage.  The  hills,  or  bluffs  as  they  are  called  in  this  country, 
which  are  everywhere  to  be  seen  on  the  margins  of  the  Mississippi  and  Illinois 
rivers,  are  generally  neither  very  high  nor  precipitous,  and  very  rarely  approach 
the  water's  edge.  The  bottoms  between  the  river  and  bluffs  are  generally  alluvial, 
and  expand  from  one  to.  five  miles  in  \vklth.  Two-thirds  of  these  bottom  lands  are 
subject  to  occasional  inundation  from  high  water;  and  when  this  happens,  the  river 
is  seen  gradually  to  rise  for  several  successive  days,  until  the  channel  within  the 
banks  is  no  longer,  capable  of  containing-  the.  Immense  accumulation  of  waters  from 
above,  at  which  time  th^y  burst  over  the  banks  in  all  directions,  extending  them- 
selves from  bluff"  to  bi:  if  in- all  the  terrific  grandeur  of  a  mighty  river.  Again 
they  gradually  recede^  until  they  are  confined  within  the  ordinary  channel.  When 
these  inundations  pcciur  as  late  as  the  months  of  June  and  July,  a  sickly  season, 
arising  from  the  noxious  rapfturs  engendered  by  a  decay  of  vegetation,  may  be  ex- 
pected in  these  and^contifpeus  parts  of  the  country  ;  but  if  early,  and  the  bottoms 
become  dry  before' the  hot  season  commences,  no  difference  in  the  health  of  the 
inhabitants  is  expected  to'  ensue  on  that  account. 

Of  the  military  tract,  fcbout  two-thirds  may  be  set  down  as  prairie  land,  and  the 
remaining  one-third  as  timber  land.  The  detached  groves,  or  those  which  are 
found  occasionally  as  islands  in  the  prairies,  and  those  at  the  heads  or  sources  of 
the  streams,  generally  pr^luce  the  finest  timber,  with  a  soil  mostly  of  good  quality, 
and  not  unfrequently  very  rich.  The  soil  on  the  prairies  is  good,  and  a  large  por- 
tion of  it  may  be  considered  as  first-rate,  having  either  a  black  vegetable  mould, 
or  a  dark  sandy  loam,  from  15  to  30  inches  deep,  generally  bedded  on  a  stiff  yellow 
clay.  Many  of  the  prairies  are  of  convenient  dimensions  for  farming  operations, 
others  too  large  at  present,  and  again  we  find  many  only  large  enough  for  a  single 
farm. 

The  emigrant,  in  travelling  over  this  delightful  region  in  the  spring  and  summer 
months,  will  generally  see  timber  either  before  him  or  to  the  right  or  left,  within 
a  few  miles,  but  he  will  occasionally,  after  descending  one  of  our  beautiful  slopes 
to  the  verdant  valley  beneath,  through  which  the  gentle  rivulet  is  meandering  its 
course  with  its  flowery  border,  get  as  it  were  out  of  the  sight  of  land,  while  his 
vision  is  bounded  only  by  the  blue  horizon  above,  and  not  a  tree  can  be  discovered 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  Again,  when  he  approaches  the  summit  of  the  oppo- 
site slope,  his  vision  is  relieved  with  the  green  forests  upon  his  right  and  left,  and 
a  cluster  of  beautiful  island  groves  immediately  in  the  advance,  with  their  varied 
shrubbery  in  full  bloom,  scattering  its  fragrance  for  many  a  mile  around :  the  prai- 
rie, in  the  mean  time,  being  covered  with  a  smooth  green  coat  of  grass,  and  innu- 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  21 


merable  flowers  of  every  variety  and  hue,  which  blossom  and  decay  in  succession, 
from  the  first  opening  of  spring  until  the  severe  frosts  of  winter. 

The  bounty  lands  extend  from  north  to  south  over  about  tw^and  a  half  degrees 
of  latitude,  the  medium  of  which  exceeds  forty  degrees  north,  and  afford  a  climate 
not  uncongenial  to  the  constitution  of  men  from  the  northern  and  middle  states. 
The  climate  seems  also  to  be  well  adapted  to  the  constitution  of  emigrants  from 
Kentucky,  Tennessee,  and  the  Carolinas,  who,  in  the  general,  enjoy,  as.  good  health 
as  those  from  the  more  northern  states.  It  is  a  fact,  however,  which'  ought  not  to 
be  disguised,  that  a  large  portion  of  the  lands  on  the  margins  of  the  Mississippi  and 
Illinois  rivers,  as  well  as  those  upon  the  banks  of  the  smaller  streams,  including 
such  also  as  border  upon  the  large,  flat,  wet  prairies,  may  be  reckoned  among  the 
situations  most  unfavourable  to  health.  The  stagnant  waters  which  sometimes 
remain  after  the  overflowings  of  these  rivers,  not  unfrequently  produce  pestilential 
vapours,  proceeding  from  putrescent  vegetable  substances,  which  very  often  engen- 
der malignant  fevers  and  agues,  and  prove  destructive  to  the  health  and  vigour  of 
the  newly  settled  emigrant  and  his  family.  Habitations  should,  therefore,  at  the 
commencement  of  a  settlement  be  as  far  removed  as  convenient,  from  stagnant 
waters,  and  low,  rich,  alluvial  grounds,  which  are  thickly  shaded  by  forest  trees, 
and  located  on  more  open  and  elevated  ground,  where  air  and  water  can  be  enjoyed 
in  their  native  purity.  Lands  of  this  description,  which,  in  a  state  of  nature,  prove 
most  injurious  to  health,  when  drained,  opened  to  the  sun,  and  cleared,  of  the  trees 
and  rank  weeds,  which  generally  grow  upon  them,  have  often  become  salubrious 
places  of  habitation.  But  the  new  comer  should  be  aware  before  he -is  acclimated, 
that  it  is  a  dangerous  experiment  to  attempt  the  improvement.  But  of  this  quality, 
there  is  a  small  part  only  of  the  whole  tract,  most  of  the  residue  furnishing  situa- 
tions as  healthful  as  any  part  of  the  Western  Country,  old  Kentucky  not  excepted. 

Taking  all  the  Bounty  Tract  together,  aift&  fhere  is  no  region  of  country  in  the 
west  more  eligibly  situated  for  all  the  purposes  of  agriculture  and  commerce.  The 
lands  everywhere,  with  but  few  exceptions,  are  of  the  best  quality,  and  in  -a  man- 
ner surrounded  by  a  sheet  of  navigable' waters;  and  the  country  exhibits  a  climate 
of  great  variety  for  the  space  occupied ;  whereby  its  productions  are  varied,  and 
the  means  of  traffic  greatly  increased  and  facilitated.  Labels. -of  excellent  quality 
may  yet  be  had  at  the  government  price  of  $1.25  per  acce,  irr  desirable  parts  of  the 
country,  so  that  means  of  wealth,  or  at  least  of  a  omiiortMlile-  competence,  are  still 
within  the  reach  of  the  poor  as  well  as  the  opulent.  Wh:it  motives  of  advance- 
ment are  here  held  out  to  the  industrious  and  skilful  cultivator  of  the  soil — what 
prospects  of  wealth  to  the  industrious  mechanic  and  enterpfizing  merchant — what 
a  wide  field  of  speculation  is  not  in  fact  here  presented  .tp  the  view  of  the  whole 
people  of  the  west ! 

In  this  region  there  are  but  few  springs ;  but  water  may  be  plentifully  obtained 
anywhere  on  the  smooth  prairies,  by  digging  from  fifteen  to  forty  feet  below  the 
surface.  The  well  water  is  pure  and  salutary,  and  generally  preferred  to  the 
spring  water.  The  surface  of  the  ground  everywhere  in  this  country  is  remarka- 
bly free  from  stones,  except  on  the  rivers,  creeks,  and  branches,  in  which  many 
good  quarries  are  found  both  of  lime  and  sandstone.  With  the  exception  of  stone- 
coal,  there  are  no  mines  on  the  Military  Tract.  Some  specimens  of  iron,  lead, 
and  copper  ore  have  occasionally  been  picked  up,  but  not  in  sufficient  quantities  to 
justify  the  belief  that  any  discoveries  will  be  made  worthy  of  pursuit. 

The  agricultural  productions  of  this  part  of  Illinois  are  Indian  corn,  wheat,  rye, 
oats,  barley,  potatoes,  hemp,  flax,  &c.  The  tame  grasses,  such  as  timothy,  red 
clover,  red  top  or  herd's  grass,  and  blue  grass,  are  also  now  cultivated  to  some 
extent,  and  so  far  succeed  well.  The  principal  articles  produced  for  exportation 
consist  of  horses,  beef  cattle,  milch  cows,  live  hogs,  barrelled  beef  and  pork,  bacon, 
lard,  hides,  butter,  Indian  corn,  wheat,  and  flour.  Some  of  the  backwoodsmen, 
also,  still  continue  to  carry  on  a  considerable  traffic  with  the  merchants,  in  deer- 
skins and  furs,  such  as  otter,  muskrat,  and  raccoon,  and  in  honey  and  beeswax. 
Some  farmers  have  been  frequently  known  to  make  more  money  in  this  way,  than 
from  the  product  of  their  farms. 

The  disposition  of  so  much  of  this  fine  country  for  military  rewards,  has  very 


22  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


much  retarded  its  settlement  Most  of  the  titles  have  long  since  departed  from  the 
soldiers  for  whose  benefit  the  donations  were  made.  Many  thousand  quarter  sec- 
tions have  been  sold  by  the  state  for  taxes,  and  are  past  redemption.  Much  of  it 
is  in  the  hands  of  non-residents,  who  hold  it  at  prices  too  exorbitant  to  command 
sale.  Some  have  doubted  the  legality  of  these  sales  at  auction  for  taxes;  but  able 
lawyers,  and  those  who  have  investigated  the  business,  have  expressed  the  opinion 
that  "  tax  titles"  are  valid.  Within  the  last  two  years  the  Military  Tract  has 
received  a  great  accession  to  its  population.  A  large  quantity  of  these  military 
lands  are  now  owned  by  a  company,  who  have  a  land-office  opened  at  Quincy,  and 
offer  tracts  at  from  three  to  ten  dollars  per  acre.  About  three-fifths  of  the  quarter 
sections  have  been  appropriated  as  military  bounties.  The  remainder  is  to  be  dis- 
posed of  in  the  same  manner  as  other  public  lands.  South  of  the  base  line,  which 
passes  across  the,  tract  through  Schuyler  and  Adams  counties,  the  public  lands 
have  been  offerect-tfor  sale.  North  of  that  line  there  is  much  excellent  land  yet 
for  sale. 

A  scientific  gentleman,  who  has  recently  examined  the  central  parts  of  the 
Military  Bounty  Tract,  has  given  the  following  as  the  geological  structure  of  the 
upland  prairies  in  that  region.  That  the  same  general  structure  prevails  through- 
out the  entire  peninsula  (between  the  Illinois  and  Mississippi  rivers),"  and  all  the 
central  and  northern  parts  of  the  state,  is  most  probable.  1st.  Vegetable  mould, 
formed  by  thje  decomposition  of  grass  upon  the  original  clay  soil,  8  to  30  inches : 
2d.  Pure  yellow  clay,  3  to  8  feet :  3d.  Gravelly  clay,  mixed  with  pebbles,  4  to 
10  feet :  4th.  Limestone  rock,  2  to  12  feet :  5th.  Shale,  covering  a  stratum  ef 
bituminous  coal  generally  4  >  5  feet  thick:  6th.  Soapstone:  then  sandstone. 
The  bed  of  limestone  seems  JQ  be  universal  in  this  region,  it  having  been  disco- 
vered in  all  the  wells  that  have  been  dug,  and  in  all  the  banks  of  water-courses  of 
any  magnitude. 

An  opinion  is  entertained  by  some  persons  at  the  east,  that  the  prairies  here  are 
of  a  light,  spongy  nature;  without  solidity  or  firmness.  The  notion  has  probably 
been  gathered  from  the  boggy  prairies  of  Ohio.  But  no  land  of  this  sort,  we  are 
assured,  is  to  be  found  ib.the  Military  Tract,  if  we  except  the  marshes  upon  the 
margins  of  rivers.  The  substratum  being  clay,-the  surface  is  as  firm  and  dry  as 
any  of  the  limestone  lands  of  Pennsylvania  or  Maryland,  and  in  many  respects  is 
of  a  similar  character  to  thf  -best  in  Frederick  county,  in  the  latter  state. 

ROCK  RIVER  COUNTRY. 

That  portion  'of  Illinois^situated  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state,  watered  by 
Rock  river  arid  its  branche"S,'is  known  by  the  appellation  of  the  Rock  River  Country. 
It  is  a  fertile  agricultural  region,  combining  all  the  advantages  of  a  rich  and  fruit- 
ful soil,  a  healthy  and  temperate  climate,  a  fine  navigable  river,  and  clear  perennial 
streams,  affording  excellent  mill-seats,  together  with  many  of  the  most  useful  and 
important  minerals. 

Rock  river  rises  in  Wisconsin  Territory,  about  midway  between  Lake  Michigan 
and  the  Wisconsin  river.  Jts  course  in  Illinois  is  nearly  180  miles  in  extent  It 
receives  its  most  important  tributary,  the  Pekatonica,  from  the  lead-mine  region 
of  Wisconsin  Territory,  a  few  miles  below  the  northern  boundary  of  the  state. 
The  Rock  River  Country  may  be  considered  as  embracing  not  only  the  parts  which 
border  immediately  upon  that  stream,  but  all  those  portions  of  the  surrounding  ter- 
ritory that  may  contribute  directly  to  the  developement  and  employment  of  the 
resources  of  the  Rock  river  valley.  * 

In  this  view  may  be  included  the  mineral  wealth  and  agricultural  advantages  of 
the  Pekatonica  and  its  branches,  the  products  of  which  must  eventually  find  their 
way  to  market  on  the  bosom  of  Rock  river ;  but  also  the  mineral  region  around 
Galena  and  Dubuque7*which  will,  sooner  or  later,  be  connected  by  close  links  of 
interest  and  necessity  with  the  inexhaustible  beds  of  coal  and  general  manufac- 
turing advantages  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  mouth  of  Rock  river.  Under  the 
same  general  head  we  may  also  include  the  fine  agricultural  country  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  extending  from  the  Indian  reservation  on  the  Iowa  to  the 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  23 


waters  of  the  Wabepisipimecon,  which  will  look  to  the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi 
and  the  town  located  near  the  mouth  of  Rock  river  for  its  market. 

The  bottom-lands  of  these  streams,  most  usually  about  a  mile  and  a  half  wide, 
cannot  be  surpassed  in  fertility.  Besides  other  causes  which  have  combined  for 
centuries  to  produce  the  same  result,  the  wash  of  the  bluffs  enriches  the  plain 
below  by  its  deposit,  to  such  an  extent  that  the  depth  of  soil  in  places  is  almost 
incredible.  Like  the  great  American  Bottom  below  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois  river, 
which  has  been  cultivated  for  more  than  a  hundred  years,  the  fertility-of  most  of 
the  Rock  river  and  Upper  Mississippi  bottoms  is  indestructible.  On  Such  a  soil, 
under  proper  cultivation,  100  bushels  of  corn  and  40  bushels  of  wheat  to  the  acre 
could  be  raised  with  facility.  With  the  most  careless  kind  of  culture,  where  the 
farmers  do  not  think  of  applying  the  hoe  after  planting,  and  ruii  the  plough  through 
but  twice,  the  average  corn  crop  is  about  50  or  60  bushels  per  acre.  The  soil  on 
the  brow  of  the  bluffs,  as  might  be  expected  from  the  unceasing  washing  of  ages,  is 
thin  and  unproductive ;  but  when  you  ascend  to  the  elevated  table-land — which  is 
generally  characteristic  of  the  bluffs  after  you  leave  the  breaks,  gullies  formed  by 
springs  and  drains  on  the  edge  of  the  bluffs, — you  will  find,  most  usually,  a  soil  of 
the  richest  kind — high  and  dry,  and  fanned,  in  the  warmest  days  of  summer,  by 
breezes  of  the  most  refreshing  character.  These  breezes,  however,  are  converted 
into  pretty  cold  winds  in  winter. 

The  greatest  objection  made  to  the  Rock  river  country  is  the  alleged  scarcity  of 
timber.  What  is  termed  the  "  grand  prairie,"  commencing  in  the  lower  part  of 
Illinois  and  reaching  to  Lake  Superior,  touches  Rock  river  in  several  places,  and 
some  of  its  wide-stretching  arms  partially  separated  from  the  parent  prairie  by 
occasional  groves,  cross  that  stream.  These  extensive  jare^idows  form  an  obstacle 
at  this  time  to  the  dense  settlement  of  those  portions  where  the  predominance  of 
prairie  over  timber  is  too  great;  but  the  time  will  come,  and  the  day  is  not  far  dis- 
tant, when  emigrants  will  rush  to  the  large  prairies  with  almost  as  much  eagerness 
as  they  now  avoid  them. 

But  without  reference  to  the  prospective  settlement  of  the  prairies,  the  existence 
of  these  large  meadows  in  the  neighbourhood  can  form  no  reasonable  objection  to 
the  settlement  of  such  portions  #s  are  timbered.  Of  these  there  are  thousands  of 
situations  in*the  Rock  river  country?  where  plenty  of  timber  in  proximity  to  prairies 
will  give  settlers  the  advantage^  of  timber  and  prairie  united;  and  if  the  argument 
be  a  good  one  that  the  large  prairies  .cannot  be-  settled  without  recourse  to  the 
woodlands,  that  very  fact  should  form  a  strong  inducement  for  the  early  settlement 
of  the  more  favoured  portions.  But  reflecting  and  experienced  men"  say  that  no 
apprehensions  need  be  felt  about  the  supply  of  timber  for  the  wants  of  the  country, 
and  that  so  far  as  Rock  Island  county  is  concerned,  it  has  a  greater  proportion  of 
timber  than  the  counties  in  its  vicinity. 

The  portion  of  country  south  and  south-east  of  Rock  river  is  comparatively 
deficient  in  timber,  except  where  the  waters  of  Green  river,  Edwards,  and  Hen- 
derson, carry  belts  of  it  along  their  various  windings.  Up  Rock  river  the  timber 
is  in  many  places  of  the  finest  character,  and  convenient  of  access  to  the  river, 
down  which  it  could  be  rafted  with  ease. 

The  bluff  which  forms  the  principal  portion  of  the  strip  of  land  between  Rock 
river  and  the  Mississippi,  from  Albany  in  Whiteside  county  down  to  near  the 
mouth  of  the  former  stream,  a  distance  of  35  miles,  is,  with  one  or  two  slight  ex- 
ceptions, covered  plentifully  with  good  timber.  This  woodland,  although  broken 
in  many  places  by  gullies  which  carry  off  water  to  the  prairie  bottoms,  is  in  gene- 
ral excellent  wheat  land.  » 

On  the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  for  about  ten  miles  above  Rock  Island,  and 
twenty  or  thirty  below,  the  bluff  falls  gently  into  bottoms  of  about  a  mile  wide — 
frequently  intersected  with  spurs  and  groves  of  timber ;  and  altogether  forming  a 
succession  of  farm-sites  as  beautiful  as  the  eye  ever  saw  or  the  heart  could  desire. 
Immediately  back  of  these  sloping  bottoms,  the  bluff  is  covered  with  the  dense 
foliage  of  stately  timber,  forming  a  rich  bordering  for  the  picture  of  scenic  loveli- 
ness below.  This  skirt  of  timber  varies  from  one  to  two  miles  in  width.  Back  of 
it,  the  timber  is  scattered  into  little  patches  of  foliage,  dotting  the  interminable 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


prairies  as  they  sweep  off  in  beautiful  and  ocean-like  undulations,  westward  to  the 
waters  of  the  Iowa.  The  timber  of  this  region  comprises  the  usual  variety  of  the 
latitude — white  and  black  oak,  ash,  hickory,  elm,  lynn,  cherry,  white  and  black 
walnut,  maple,  sugar  tree,  &c.  In  provision  for  building  materials,  nature  has 
been  bountiful  to  the  Rock  River  Country.  Clay  for  brick,  limestone  of  the  finest 
quality,  and  freestone,  can  be  found  in  almost  any  neighbourhood. 

The  products  of  this  region  are  the  same  as  those  of  the  adjoining  districts,  and 
are  raised  with  the  same  facility  as  in  the  most  favoured  parts  of  the  state.  A  cor- 
respondent writes,  "  I  have  not  seen  in  any  place  this  season,  crops  of  wheat,  corn, 
and  oats  to  surpass,  and  but  few  to  equal,  what  I  saw  near  Stephenson,  the  seat  of 
justice  of  Rock  Island  county.  The  size  to  which  esculent  roots  have  grown  there 
is  almost  incredible." 

Besides  the  agricultural  advantages  of  this  region  of  country,  it  must  for  ever  be 
connected  with,  and  interested  in  the  mineral  regions  above  it.  The  extent  of  the 
lead  region  will  perhaps  never  be  determined.  The  mines  are  considered  inex- 
haustible, and  each  succeeding  year  developes  new  treasures,  inviting  the  hand  of 
enterprize,  and  exciting  the  eager  appetite  of  discovery. 

The  mines  mostly  wrought  at  this  time,  are  in  the  vicinity  of  Dubuque,  Galena, 
and  Mineral  Po.nt  on  the  Pekatonica.  Taking  Rock  river  on  one  side  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and  the  Iowa  on  the  other,  for  the  southern  limits  of  the  mineral  region 
(although  it  is  believed  to 'extend  much  farther  south),  north  of  these  streams,  for 
perhaps  hundreds  of  mijes.  west,  reaching  to  Lake  Michigan  on  the  east,  and  a 
thousand  miles  to  the  north,  ,yutil  you' reach  the  ocean-like  shores  and  pure  waters 
of  Lake  Superior,  you- have  an  immense  territory,  already  known  to  possess  mines  of 
lead,  iron,  copper,  saltpetre,  £'<\,  the  value  of  which  will  ever  be  beyond  calculation. 

Lead  and  copper  ore  have  been  found  upon  other  tributaries  of  Rock  river 
besides  the  Pekatonica.  Upon'  the  latteB,'.  mines  of  the  richest  character  are 
wrought  with  industry  and  success.  Copper  ore  has  been  raised  already  from  the 
mines  on  the  Pekatonica,  to  tne  extent  of  about  200,000  pounds.  Lead  has  been 
found  by  the  Indians  in  several  places  west  of  the  Mississippi,  not  tar  from  Rock 
Island.  Near  the  Wabepfeipimecon,  which  empties*  into  the  Mississippi  about  30 
miles  above  that  island,  copper  and-  iron  ore,  saltgetre,  epsom  salts,  and  a  fine  spe- 
cies of  variegated  alabaster,  have  lately  been  founa.  *  On  the  shores  of  Lake  Pepin, 
up  the  Mississippi,  near  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,,  iron  ore  exists  in  such  masses 
that  the  lake  may  almost  literally  be  called  " iron-bourld"  Iron  ore  and  stone-coal 
are  found  in  several  placed  along  the  Upper  Rapids  of  the  Mississippi.  The  latter 
article,  of  a  good  quality,  pervades  the  Rock  river  bluffs  extensively,  and  will, 
before  long,  become  a  very  important  article  of  trade  with  the  lead-mines,  where 
the  country  is  destitute  of  it.  The  recent  improvement  in  smelting  furnaces,  and 
the  contemplated  introduction  of  steam-engines  to  drain  the  mines  on  the  plan  of 
the  miners  of  Cornwall,  England,  which  must  take  place  before  long,  will  cause 
the  consumption  of  an  immense  quantity  of  stone-coal.  They  now  send  to  St. 
Louis  for  it,  and  freight  it  up  stream  500  miles.  It  will  not  be  many  years  before 
the  business  of  smelting  will  be  done  near  the  mouth  of  Rock  river  for  nearly  all 
the  lead  regions  above,  from  the  circumstance  that  the  mineral  can  be  much  easier 
floated  down  to  the  fuel,  than  the  fuel  can  be  freighted  up  to  the  mineral.  This 
will  throw  into  the  lately  located  seat  of  justice  of  Rock  Island  county  an  immense 
trade,  which  is  not  generally  looked  upon  as  being  alienable  from  the  immediate 
neighbourhood  of  the  mines. 

The  time  will  come  when  the  facility  with  which  lead  can  be  obtained,  will 
cause  it  indirectly  to  enter  into  the  consumption  of  the  country  in  a  thousand  differ- 
ent shapes  now  not  thought  of;  and  the  demand  becoming  comparatively  limitless, 
will  cause  every  hill  and  valley  where  there  are  signs  of  "mineral"  to  be  explored: 
and  infinite  developements  of  the  resources  of  the  country,  now  entering  only  into 
the  dreams  of  the  visionary,  will  greet  the  acute  eye  of  enterprize.  When  we 
reflect  that  for  a  century  and  a  half  the  gold-mines  of  the  southern  states  lay  hid- 
den from  a  comparatively  dense  population,  it  should  rather  be  a  matter  of  astonish- 
ment that  so  much  has  already  been  discovered  by  the  sparse  settlements  of  the 
lead  rejrion. 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  25 


There  can  be  no  doubt  of  this  region  being  eminently  healthy.  The  country  is 
supplied  bountifully  with  water  from  good  springs,  and  the  air  is  second  only  to 
mountain  air  in  purity.  It  is  even  thought  that  the  neighbourhood  of  Rock  Island 
will  one  day  be  the  resort  of  rich  invalids,  and  the  man  of  leisure  from  the  south, 
on  account  of  its  double  charm  of  salubrity  of  atmosphere,  and  picturesqueness  of 
scenery.  The  existence  of  a  copious  white  sulphur  spring  near  Rock  Island,  of 
medical  virtues  equal  perhaps  to  the  waters  of  any  of  the  celebrated  springs  in  the 
United  States,  gives  strength  to  the  idea. 

The  navigation  of  Rock  river  is  obstructed  principally  by  the  rapids,  3^  miles 
from  its  mouth ;  upon  which,  however,  there  is  never  less  than  about  18  inches 
water,  which  is  more  than  the  Ohio  river  affords  at  its  lowest  stages,  in  places. 
Several  enterprizing  individuals  have  it  in  contemplation  to  build  a  steamboat  ex- 
pressly for  navigating  Rock  river,  which  may  be  done  for  a  considerable  portion  ot 
the  year. 

A  circumstance  which  the  recent  survey  and  settlement  of  the  country  on  the 
Upper  Rock  river  has  but  lately  brought  to  view,  may  and  will,  if  taken  advantage 
of,  no  doubt,  have  an  important  bearing  on  the  prosperity  of  the  Rock  River  Country. 
It  is  ascertained  that  the  distance  from  the  city  of  Milwaukee  on  Lake  Michigan 
to  the  navigable  waters  of  Rock  river,  is  only  about  50  miles,  and  over  a  country 
well  calculated  for  making  either  a  canal  or  a  rail-road.  The  improvement  of  this 
region  by  the  construction  of  one  or  both  of,  the  above  public  works  would  open  a 
medium  of  communication  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Lakes,  and  atibrd  an  outlet  to 
the  northern  markets  that  would  be  of  incalculable;  benefit  to  the  upper  part  of 
Illinois,  and  add  another  link  to  the  mighty  chain  that  is  binding  together  the  ex- 
tremities of  our  widely-extended  republic. 

With  the  present  possession  and  pro  ilrol  of  advantages  like  all  these, 

it  does  not  require  sanguine  calculations  to  qpteriffme  the  future  condition  of  this 
country.  Easy  access  to  market  will  fllways •insure-  to  the  farmer  the  rewards  of 
industry  ;  and  a  rich  agricultural  community  ever  promotes  the  steadiest  and  purest 
prosperity  to  all  other  classes.  Mechanics  are/always  demanded  by  the  wants  of 
an  improving  country;  and  the  lack  of  competition  in  a  new  country,  guaranties 
to  such  as  emigrate  the  best  of  grices  and  the  best  of  pay. 

The  boundless  resources  of  the  great  west  spread  fut  their  harvest  for  the  sickle 
of  the  young  and  the  enterprizing.  "The  harvest!  y  plenty,  but  the  labourers 
few."  He  that  would  carve  out  his  own  fortune  at  the  expense  of  temporary  sac- 
rifices, in  preference  to  frittering  away  his  existence  in  the  slavish  occupancy  of 
an  overstrained  competition,  should  turn  his  eyes  and  his  footsteps  westward. 

SANGAMON  COUNTRY. 

The  country  traversed  by  the  Sangamon  river  and  its  branches  is  a  region  sel- 
dom equalled  in  fertility.  It  is  high  and  undulating,  well  watered  with  creeks  and 
springs,  and  is  beautifully  interspersed  with  timber  and  prairie,  the  former  of  which 
consists  of  those  descriptions  which  grow  only  on  the  richest  soil,  being  principally 
locust,  black  walnut,  hickory,  maple,  &c. 

The  prairies  frequently  contain  fine  groves  of  timber :  these  are  generally  ele- 
vated above  the  surrounding  country,  and  are  most  advantageous  situations  for  set- 
tlement. The  inhabitants  reside  chiefly  in  the  margin  of  the  timber,  extending 
their  plantations  to  any  distance  in  the  prairie. 

This  desirable  tract  was  settled  with  such  rapidity,  that  it  contained  5000  inhabi- 
tants before  a  single  section  had  been  sold ;  and  farms  of  considerable  size,  even 
of  a  hundred  acres  of  cultivated  land,  had  been  made.  It  is  now  divided  into 
several  counties,  containing  a  population  of  at  least  40,000.  The  first  white  in- 
habitants settled  here  in  1819,  and  the  first  sale  of  public  land  was  in  November 
1823.  At  the  present  time,  the  borders  of  the  prairie  fire  covered  with  hundreds 
of  smiling  farms,  and  the  interior  is  animated  with  thousands  of  domestic  animals; 
the  rough  and  unseemly  cabin  is  giving  place  to  comfortable  framed  or  brick  tene- 
ments; and  plenty  everywhere  smiles  upon  the  labours  of  the  husbandman. 

The  objection  often  made  by  those  unacquainted  with  a  prairie  country  against 

D  3 


26  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 

the  great  extent  of  the  prairies  and  a  want  of  sufficient  timber  in  the  Sangamon 
and  other  districts  in  Illinois,  offers  no  serious  inconvenience  for  the  present ;  as 
timber  in  sufficient  quantities  has  been  found  without  difficulty,  to  meet  all  the  de- 
mands of  the  population.  With  regard  to  the  prairies,  many  persons  are  beginning 
to  understand  the  superiority  of  that  description  of  land  for  agricultural  purposes ; 
and  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when,  no  doubt,  it  will  be  generally  preferred  to  all 
others. 

Late  scientific  examinations,  as  well  as  the  practical  results  of  settlement  and 
cultivation,  have  determined  the  fact  that  the  prairies  are  richer  as  you  approach 
their  middles,  and  in  some  measure  in  proportion  to  the  distance  from  timber ;  and 
that  the  carbonate  of  lime,  so  rich  a  nourisher  of  grasses  and  grains,  is  found  in 
the  soil  or'  the  prairies  to  an  extent  of  from  20  to  42  per  cent.  In  timber  lands  it 
is  found  in  a  much  smaller  proportion,  and  in  many  cases  does  not  exist  at  all.  This 
fertilizing  property,  which  renders  the  prairie  lands  so  desirable,  in  appealing  to 
'the  esteem  of  the  farmer,  has  only  to  struggle  against  his  ide.as  of  convenience  to 
timber.  His  apprehensions  will  be  broken  down  by  degrees.  Coal,  which  exists 
in  the  bluffs  of  the  rivers  and  streams  in  almost  every  part  of  the  state,  will  be 
his  fuel,  and  he  will  grow  the  hedge-thorn  and  the  black  locust  for  his  fencing. 
There  is  also  a  certainty  of  the  gradual  self-introduction  of  timber  of  the  ordinary 
growths,  where  the  fires  are  kept  out  of  the  prairies.  In  the  southern  part  of  the 
state,  which  has  been  settled  for.  15  or  20  years,  and  where  they  once  had  the  same 
apprehensions  about  the  prospective  scarcity  of  timber  which  is  now  felt  at  the 
north,  they  now  have  a^g-peater  abundance  of  timber  than  they  had  20  years  ago, 
notwithstanding  all  t!i,e  consumption  of  a  comparatively  dense  population  ;  and  tim- 
ber has  sprung  up  and  'grown  large  enough  for  farming  purposes,  where  at  the  time 
of  settlement  were  extensive  an  1  monotonous  prairies. 

Above  ail  countries,  this  is  the  land  of  flowers.  In  the  season  every  prairie  is 
an  immense  flower-garden.  In  :the  -early-  stages  of -spring  rises  a  generation  of 
flowers,  whose  prevalent  .tint  is  peachblow.  "  'Ehe'next  is  a  deeper  red.  Then  suc- 
ceeds the  yellow;  and  to,  the  latest  period  of  autumn,  the  prairies  'exhibit  a  brilliant 
golden  hue. 

The  Sangamon  country  is  one  of  the  finest  stock  districts  in  the  Western 
states,  the  summer  range  for  cattle- is  inexhaustible,  and  the  amount  of  excellent 
hay  that  may  be  made  evwr  season  from  the  rich  prairies  almost  without  limit. 
Horses,  cattle,  sheep,  and  nogs,  can  be  raised  here  with  but  little  trouble  and  ex- 
pense, compared  with  the  eastern  states.  The  mildness  of  the  climate  has  not 
unfrequently  relieved  the  owners  from  all  care  and  expense  of  feeding  them  through 
the  whole  year  ;  but  it  is  generally  necessary  to  feed  from  the  commencement  of 
December  until  the  latter  part  of  March.  When  cattle  are  fed  and  attended  to  in 
the  best  manner  by  provident  farmers,  the  expense  is  less  by  one  half,  than  winter- 
ing the  same  species  of  stock  in  the  eastern  states. 

The  shortness  and  moderation  of  the  winter  seasons,  and  the  abundant  forage 
which  may  as  yet  be  gathered  from  the  wild  prairies,  render  the  raising  of  stock 
both  cheap  and  easy.  The  grass,  when  cut  from  the  upland  prairies  and  well 
cured,  makes  excellent  hay ;  and  cattle  will  keep  in  good  order  the  whole  winter 
on  this  food  alone.  It  has  also  been  frequently  remarked,  that  both  horses  and 
cattle  fatten  quite  as  fast  in  the  spring  and  summer,  on  the  wild  grass  of  the  prai- 
ries, as  upon  the  tame  pastures  of  the  east.  And  the  richness  and  flavour  of  the 
beef  thus  fattened,  has  been  much  esteemed  at  St.  Louis  and  New-Orleans,  and 
generally  reckoned  of  the  finest  quality. 

This  region  is  also  admirably  adapted  for  the  cultivation  of  the  sugar  beet  root, 
which  besides  its  great  value  in  the  manufacture  of  the  beet  sugar,  is  about  to  be- 
come a  most  important  article  in  the  feeding  of  cattle. 

The  following  account  of  what  has  been  accomplished  in  this  way  by  a  single 
individual,  is  extracted  from  a  western  paper  of  late  date.  "  Jx>t  Pugh,  Esq.  of 
Cincinnati,  has  cultivated  most  successfully  the  sugar  beet,  on  his  farm  near  that 
city.  Last  year  he  raised  50  tons  of  beets  to  the  acre,  and  his  crop  is  much  better 
the  present  season.  The  manager  of  the  farm  says,  that  it  requires  but  little 
more  labour  to  raisa  50  tons  of  beets  than  fifty  bushels  of  corn,  while  the  former  is 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  27 


quite  as  good  for  horses,  much  better  for  cattle,  and  rather  better  for  stock  hogs. 
He  also  asserts,  that  sucking  calves  preferred  beets,  when  properly  prepared,  to 
milk.  Although  cattle  and  hogs  will  eat  beets  in  a  raw  state,  still  they  are  much 
better  when  boiled.  The  apparatus  and  fixtures  used  by  Mr.  Pugh  for  boiling  or 
rather  steaming,  food  for  300  hogs  and  40  or  50  cows,  with  other  stock,  cost  about 
$150,  and  consumes  a  quarter  of  a  cord  of  wood  per  day." 

The  above  will  show  that  a  new  item  of  national  wealth  is  about  to  be  introdu- 
ced into  the  United  States.  The  culture  of  the  beet  root  has  produced  important 
results  in  France.  It  is  well  known  that  land  in  those  districts  where  its  growth 
has  become  general  has  increased  'in  value  from  50  to  150  per  cent. ;  and  the  clear 
annual  income  per  acre,  alter  paying  all  expenses,  ranges  from  35  to  40  dollars. 
The  profits  would  be  equally  great  in  this  country ;  for,  although  the  price  of  la- 
bour is  cheaper  in  France,  the  difference  would  no  doubt  be  amply  compensated  by 
the  superior  fertility  of  the  Illinois  prairies,  and  the  circumstance  of  dispensing 
with  manure,  which  the  great  depth  and  richness  of  the  soil  of  the  Sangamon  and 
other  districts  in  this  state  will  render  unnecessary  for  a  long  period.  A  very  con- 
siderable diminution  of  the  annual  profits  in  Europe,  consists  in  the  expense  of 
manuring  the  land  so  as  to  make  it  sufficiently  rich  to  produce  a  remunerating 
crop. 

The  prodigious  impulse  which  the.  prosperity  of  a  country  may  receive  from  the 
introduction  of  a  single  new  plant,  is  illustrated  by  the  following  historical  tact. 

In  an  early  part  of  the  reign  of  George  the  First,  the  culture  of  the  turnip  was 
limited  in  England  to  as  few  gardenstLs  that  of  the  beet  is  now  with  us,  and  used 
almost  exclusively  for  culinary  purposes.  That  monarch,  in  one  of  his  visits  to 
his  Efectorate  of  Hanover,  was  attended  by  his  Secretary  of  State,  Lord  Town- 
send;  whilst  residing  there,  this  nobleman  w^s  struck  by  the  appearance  of  ex- 
tensive fields-flevoted  to  the  culture  of  turnips  as  food  for  cattle  and  sheep.  Im- 
pressed with  the  belief  that  this  method  might,  be  i;ttr<j^uQed  with  advantage  into 
his  own  country,  he,  before  leaving  Germany,  touk  good  care  to  provide  himself 
with  seed,  and,  on  his  return,  earnestly  recommended  to  his  tenants  a  practice, 
which,  in  Hanover,  had  Ve,en  found  to  produco  the  most  favourable  results.  Hia 
wishes  were  attended  to,  and  the  experiment  spruad  through  the^county  of  Norfolk, 
which  from  that  period  dates  its  high  reputation  as  ;m  JILTIM  uliurul  district.  Lands 
which  rented  for  one  or  two  shillings  an  acre,  soon  brought  15  or  20 ;  and  sterile 
barrerisj  oh  which  were  to  be  seen  only  a  few  half-starved  rabbits,  were  reclaimed 
|  and  are  now  covered  with  rich  harvests  of  grain.  Colquhoun,  in  his  Statistical 
Researches,  computes  that  the  annual  vtiliie  of  a  crop  of  turnips  in  Norfolk  alone, 
amounts  to  not  less  than  14  millions  sterliftg  !  When  it  is  considered  that  this  root 
has  been  the  means  of  bringing  under  culture"-  lands  which  without  it  must  have 
remained  valueless ;  that  it  leaves  the  s^il  ijfc  good  condition  to  receive  a  crop 
of  grain  or  grass,  and  that  the  latter  is  a  good  preparation  for  wheat,  we  may  safely 
consider  the  benefits  resulting  to  England  from  the  culture  of  the  beet  as  incalcu- 
lable. If  it  was  now  asked,  said  Col'juiioun,  who  was  the  man  in  modern  times 
who  had  rendered  England  the  most  signal  service,  no  one  should  hesitate  to  say 
it  was  the  nobleman,  whom  shallow  courtiers  nicknamed  in  derision  "  Turnip 
Townsend."  In  half  a  century  the  turnips  spread  over  the  three  kingdoms,  and 
their  yearly  value  at  this  day,  says  the  same  author,  is  not  inferior  in  amount  to 
the  interest  of  the  national  debt ! 


A  body  of  lands  perhaps  equally  extensive,  and  nearly  as  fertile  and  productive, 
with  that  on  the  Sangamon,  lies  along  the  course  of  the  Kaskaskia,  or  Okau. 
This  river  has  a  long  course  through  the  central  parts  of  the  Illinois,  and  a  coun- 
try happily  diversified  with  prairie  and  forest.  The  streams  that  flow  into  it,  have 
sufficient  fall  to  be  favourable  for  the  site  of  mills.  Some  well-settled  parts  of  the 
state  are  watered  by  this  river.  On  its  banks  is  Kaskaskia,  formerly  the  eeat  of 
government,  and  Vandalia,  at  present  the  metropolis. 

Although  there  are  extensive  bodies  of  sterile  and  broken  lands  in  Illinois,  yet 
take  the  whole  of  its  wide  surface  together,  it  contains  a  greater  proportion  of  first- 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


rate  land,  than  any  state  in  the  Union ;  and  probably  as  great  in  proportion  to  its 
extent,  as  any  country  on  the  globe.  One  of  the  inconveniences  connected  with 
this  extent  of  rich  country  is  too  great  a  proportion  of  prairies,  with  which  two- 
thirds  of  the  surface  are  covered ;  but  the  prevalence  of  coal  and  peat,  and  the  ease 
and  rapidity  with  which  forest  trees  may  be  raised,  will  render  even  the  extensive 
prairies  not  only  habitable  but  desirable  places  of  residence. 

RIVERS. 

It  is  only  necessary  to  look  -on  the  map  of  this  great  state,  to  see  what  astonish- 
ing advantages  for  inland  navigation  nature  has  given  it.  On  its  northern  borders 
it  has  for  some  distance  the  waters  of  Lake  Michigan  and  the  various  streams  that 
empty  into  it ;  and  by  this  vast  body  of  waters  a  communication  is  opened  with  the 
northern  parts  of  Indiana  and  Ohio,  with  New-York  and  Canada.  On  the  north- 
west frontier  it  has  Rock  river,  a  long,  beautiful,  and  boatable  tributary  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. On  the  whole  western  front  it  is  washed  by  the  Mississippi,  and  on  its 
southern  by  the  Ohio.  On  the  east  it  is  bounded  by  the  Wabash.  Through  its 
centre  winds  in  one  direction  the  Illinois,  connecting  the  Mississippi  with  Lake 
Michigan  by  the  DCS  Plaines  and  the  Chicago  rivers ;  and  in  another  direction  the 
beautiful  Kaskaskia  flows  through  the  state.  Besides  these,  there  are  great  num- 
bers of  boatable  streams  penetrating  the  state  in  every  direction.  Such  is  the 
intersection  of  Illinois  by  these  waters,  that  no  settlement  in  it  is  far  from  a  point 
of  boatable  communication,  either  with  Lake  Michigan,  the  Mississippi,  the  Ohio, 
or  the  Illinois. 

The  Mississippi  forms  the  western  boundary  of  the  state  through  its  whole 
length  from  north  to  south,  a  distance  by  the  meanders  of  the  stream  of  not  far 
from  600  miles. 

One  hundred  and  fifty  years  -|f*>m. the  time  of  its  discovery  by  La  Salle,  Mr. 

Schoolcraft  first  reached  the  source %f  .the  Mississippi,  in  the  little  lake  Itasca,  on 

|  a  high  table-land,  1500  feet  abis^e.  the  .Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  3160  miles  from  its 

'  mouth  by  the  windings  of  its  chanmeK     Its  source  is  in, about  47°,  and  its  mouth  in 

29°  north  latitude ;  and  it  consequently  traverses  18  degrees  of  latitude.     This 

great  river  is  in  some  respectsPpiifr  noblest  in  the  world,  draining  a  larger  valley, 

and  irrigating  a  more  fertile  region,  .and  having,  probably,  a  longer  course,  than 

any  other  stream.     It  commences  in  many  branches,  that  rise,  for  the  most  part, 

in  wild  rice  lakes;  but ;it  £ra/erses  no  great  distance  before  it  becomes  a  broad 

stream.  >  • 

Having  acquired,  in  a  course^  following  its  meanders,  of  three  hundred  miles, 
a  width  of  half  a  mile,  and  having  formed  its  distinctive  character,  it  precipitates 
its  waters  down  the  Falls  of  St.  Afcthony.  Thence  it  glides  alternately  through 
beautiful  meadows  and  deep  forests,  swelling  in  advancing  march  with  the  tribute 
of  a  hundred  streams.  In  its  progress  it  receives  a  tributary,  which  of  itself  has  a 
course  of  more  than  a  thousand  leagues.  Thence  it  rolls  its  accumulated,  turbid, 
and  sweeping  mass  of  waters  through  continued  forests,  only  broken  here  and  there 
by  the  axe,  in  lonely  grandeur  to  the  sea. 

No  thinking  mind  can  contemplate  this  mighty  and  resistless  wave  sweeping  its 
proud  course  from  point  to  point,  curving  round  its  bends  through  the  dark  forests, 
without  a  feeling  of  sublimity.  The  hundred  shores  laved  by  its  waters — the  long 
course  of  its  tributaries,  some  of  which  already  flow  through  the  abodes  of  cultiva- 
tion, and  others  pursue  an  immense  course  without  a  solitary  dwelling  of  civilized 
man  on  their  banks — the  numerous  tribes  of  savages  that  now  roam  over  its  bor- 
ders— the  affecting  and  imperishable  traces  of  generations  that  are  gone,  leaving 
no  other  memorials  of  their  existence  or  materials  for  their  history,  than  their 
tombs  that  rise  at  frequent  intervals  along  its  banks — the  dim,  but  glorious  antici- 
pations of  the  future, — these  are  subjects  of  contemplation  that  cannot  but  associate 
themselves  with  the  view  of  this  river. 

With  the  common  propensity  of  travellers  to  exaggerate,  the  Falls  of  St.  Antho- 
ny, until  very  recently,  have  been  much  overrated.  Instead  of  the  extravagant 
!  estimates  of  the  first  French  writers,  or  the  fall  of  fifty  feet  assigned  to  them  by 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS. 


2!) 


more  modern  authorities,  the  real  fall  of  the  Mississippi  here  is  between  sixteen 
and  seventeen  feet  of  perpendicular  descent.  Though  it  has  not  the  slightest 
claim  to  compare  with  that  of  Niagara  in  grandeur,  it  furnishes  an  impressive  and 
beautiful  spectacle  in  the  loneliness  of  the  desert.  The  adjoining  scenery  is  of  the 
most  striking  and  romantic  character ;  and,  as  the  traveller  listens  to  the  solemn 
roar  of  the  falls,  as  it  sinks  into  feeble  echoes  in  the  forests,  a  thrilling  story  is  told 
him  of  the  love  and  despair  of  a  young  Dacotah  or  Sioux  Indian  woman,  who, 
goaded  by  jealousy  towards  her  husband,  who  had  taken  another  wife,  placed  her 
young  children  in  a  canoe,  and,  chanting  the  remembrances  of  love  and  broken 
vows,  precipitated  herself  and  her  infants  down  the  falls.  Indians  are  always 
romancers,  if  not  poets.  Their  traditions  say,  that  these  ill-fated  beings  so  per- 
ished, that  no  trace  of  them  was  seen ;  but  they  suppose  that  her  spirit  wanders 
still  near  this  spot,  and  that  she  is  seen  on  sunny  mornings,  carrying  her  babes  in 
the  accustomed  manner  bound  to  her  bosom,  and  still  mourning  the  inconstancy  of 
her  husband. 

Below  this  point  it  is  bounded  by  limestone  bluffs,  from  100  to  400  feet  high,  and 
first  begins  to  exhibit  islands,  drift-wood,  and  sand-bars;  its  current  is  slightly 
broken  by  the  Rock  river  and  Des  Moines  rapids,  which,  however,  present  no  con- 
siderable obstruction  to  navigation ;  and  843  miles  from  the  falls  its  waters  are 
augmented  by  the  immense  stream  of  the  Missouri  from  the  west :  the  latter  has, 
indeed,  the  longer  course,  brings  down  a  greater  bulk  of  water,  and  gives  its  qwn 
character  to  the  united  current;  yet  it  loses  its  name  in  the  inferior  stream.  Above 
their  junction,  the  Mississippi  is  a  clear,  placid  stream,  one  mile  and  a  half  in 
width ;  below,  it  is  turbid,  and  becomes  narrower,  deeper,  and  more  rapid. 

Between  the  Missouri  and  the  sea,  a  distance  of  1220  miles,  it  receives  its  prin- 
cipal tributaries, — the  Ohio  from  the  east,  'and  the  Arkansas  and  Red  river  from 
the  west;  and  immediately  below  the  mouth;  of  the  latter,  gives  off,  in  times  of 
flood,  a  portion  of  its  superfluous  waters  by,$je'cfotlet  ef  the  Atchafalaya.  It  is  on 
this  lower  part  of  its  course,  where  it  should,  pronerly  speaking,  bear  the  name  of 
the  Missouri,  that  it  often  tears  away  the  islands' and  projecting  points,  and  at  the 
season  of  high  water,  plunges  great  masses  pf  me  banks,  with  all  their  trees,  into 
its  current.  In  many  places  it  deposits  imnfense  heaps  of  drift-wood  upon  its  mud- 
bars,  which  become  as  dangerous  to  the  navigator  as  shoals  and  rocks  at  sea. 

Below  the  Atchafalaya,  it  discharges  a  portion  of  its  waters  by  the  Lafourche 
and  Iberville ;  but  the  great  bulk  flows  on  in  trte  main  channel,  which  here  has  a 
south-easterly  course,  and,  passing  through  the  ftatlrapt  .yf  New-Orleans,  reaches 
the  sea  at  the  end  of  a  long  projecting,  tonft*  of  mud,  deposited  by  the  river. 
Near  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  it  divides  into  several  channels,  here  called  passes,  with 
bars  at  their  mouths  of  from  12  to  16  feet  of  water.  The  water  is  white  and  tur- 
bid, and  colours  those  of  the  Gulf  for  the  distance  of  several  leagues. 

The  river  begins  to  rise  in  the  early  part  of  March,  and  continues  to  increase 
irregularly  to  the  middle  of  June,  generally  overflowing  its  banks  to  a  greater  or 
less  extent,  although  for  some  years  these  have  not  been  inundated.  Above  the 
Missouri,  the  flooded  bottoms  are  from  five  to  eight  miles  wide,  but  below  that 
point,  they  expand,  by  the  recession  of  the  river  hills  from  the  channel,  to  a  breadth 
of  from  40  to  50  miles.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  the  whole  western  bank 
does  not  offer  a  single  spot  eligible  for  the  site  of  a  considerable  town,  and  hardly 
affords  a  route  for  a  road  secure  from  overflow ;  on  the  eastern  side,  there  are  seve- 
ral points  where  the  hills  approach  the  river,  and  afford  good  town-sites ;  but  from 
Memphis  to  Vicksburg,  365  miles,  the  whole  tract  consists  of  low  grounds,  subject 
to  be  inundated  to  the  depth  of  several  feet;  and  below  Baton  Rouge,  where  the 
line  of  upland  wholly  leaves  the  river,  and  passes  off  to  the  east,  there  is  no  place 
practicable  for  settlement  beyond  the  river  border,  which  is  higher  than  the  marshy 
tract  in  its  rear. 

The  Mississippi  is  obstructed  by  planters,  sawyers,  and  wooden  islands,  which 
are  frequently  the  cause  of  injury,  and  even  destruction,  to  the  boats  which  navi- 
gate it  Planters  are  large  bodies  of  trees  firmly  fixed  by  their  roots  in  the  bottom 
of  the  river,  in  a  perpendicular  manner,  and  appearing  no  more  than  about  one 
foot  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  when  at  its  medium  height.  So  firmly  are 

3* 


30  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


they  rooted,  that  the  largest  boats  running  against  them  will  not  move  them  ;  but, 
on  the  contrary,  they  materially  injure  the  boats.  Sawyera  are  likewise  large 
bodies  of  trees,  fixed  less  perpendicularly  in  the  river,  and  rather  of  a  less  size, 
yielding  to  the  pressure  of  the  current,  disappearing  and  appearing  at  intervals, 
and  having  a  motion  similar  to  the  saw  of  a  saw-miil,  from  which  they  have  taken 
their  name.  These  obstructions  to  the  navigation  have  been  partially  removed  by 
the  enterprizing  captain  Shreve,  and  his  snag-boat,  in  the  employment  of  the  gen- 
eral government;  and  a  great  portion  of  the  trees  that  form  them  have  been  cut 
away  from  its  banks.  Wooden  islands  are  places,  where,  by  some  cause  or  other, 
large  quantities  of  drift-wood  have  been  arrested  and  matted  together  in  different 
parts  of  the  river.  Formerly,  all  these  various  impediments  were  the  cause  of 
heavy  losses  to  the  merchant,  and  danger  to  the  traveller;  but  since  the  introduc- 
tion of  steamboats,  and  the  improvement  of  the  channel  .to  which  we  have  just  al- 
luded, accidents  of  this  nature  are  not  of  such  frequent  occurrence. 

The  Mississippi  and  its  mighty  tributaries,  which  form  so  striking  a  natural  fea- 
ture of  this  region,  give  to  the  mode  of  travelling  and  transportion  in  general,  a 
peculiar  cast,  and  have  created  a  peculiar  class  pf  men,  called  boatmen.  Craft  of 
all  descriptions  are  found  on  these  w^igr;-;.  There  are  the  rude,  shapeless  masses, 
that  denote  the  infancy  of  riavi  option,  1KI  ^AHBpwen'ul  and  magnificent  steamboat 
which  marks  its  perfection;  lui  ;  ^all  t!ie  intermediate  forms  between 

these  extremes.  The  most  inartifia^if  of  all  water-craft  is  the  ark,  or  Kentucky 
flat,  a  huge  frame  of  square  tirnberpv.^ith  a  roof.  It  is  in  shape  a  parallelogram, 
and  lies  upon  the  water  like  a  log;  it  hardty  feels  the  oar,  and  trusts  for  motion 
mainly  to  the  current.  It  .is  15  feet  wide,  from  50  to  80  feet  long,  and  carries 
from  200  to  400  barrels.  These  arks  are  often  filled  with  the  goods  and  families 
of  emigrants,  and  carry  even  the  carriages  and  domestic  animals.  They  are  also 
used  for  shops  of  various  kinds  of  goods,  which  are  sold  at  the  different  towns;  and 
some  of  them  are  fitted  up«s  the  workshops  of  artificers.  Sometimes,  also,  they 
are  used  as  museums  of  wax-figureS^and  other  raree-shows,  or  for  travelling  libraries. 

There  are  also  keel-boats  an'd  barges,  which  are  light  and  well  built;  skiffs,  that 
will  carry  from  two  persons  to  five  tons;  ."dug-outs,"  or  pirogues,  made  of  hollow- 
ed logs, — and  other  vessels,  for  which  language  has  no  name,  ,aittl  the  sea  no  par- 
allel. There  are  a  few  small  boats,  that  are  moved  by  a  crarikiurned  by  a  single 
man:  these  are  on  the  principle  of  steamboat  paddles.  Since  the*ise  of  steamboats, 
numbers  of  the  other  craft  have  disappeared,  and  the  number  of  river  boatmen  has 
been  diminished  by  many  thousands.  The  first  steamboat  on  these  waters  was 
built  at  Pittsburgh,  in  1811 ;  since  that  time,  in  a  period  of  25  years,  about  600 
have  been  built  at  different  places,  some  of  which  are  from  400  to  500  tons  bur- 
then; but  the  greater  number  are  from  90  to  150,  200,  and  300  tons;  there  are  at 
present  not  far  from  300  steamboats  on  the  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries,  making 
an  aggregate  of  about  60,000  tons. 

The  Mississippi  is  at  all  times  navigable,  except  when  obstructed  by  ice,  by 
steamboats  drawing  three  feet  water,  as  tar  up  as  Prairie  du  Chien;  and  frequently 
they  run  up  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  a  distance  of  800  miles  above  St.  Louis. 
There  are  only  two  permanent  obstructions  to  the  easy  navigation  of  this  river, 
except  at  very  low  water,  throughout  this  whole  distance;  and  they  occur  opposite 
to  different  points  in  Illinois.  The  first  is  the  Des  Moines  rapids,  beginning  a  few 
miles  above  the  outlet  of  the  river  of  that  name,  and  extending  up  about  14  miles, 
to  a  point  nearly  opposite  the  town  of  Commerce.  In  this  distance  there  is  a  fall 
of  25  feet ;  but  the  current  is  never  too  rapid  for  boats  to  stern  it,  and  there  is  sel- 
dom less  than  three  feet  of  depth  in  the  channel.  When  the  water  gets  very  low, 
it  is  the  practice  to  unload  the  steamboats,  pass  them  light  over  the  rapids,  and  take 
the  freight  over  in  keel-boats  of  less  draught.  These  boats,  when  ascending,  are 
towed  up  along  the  western  shore  by  horses  moving  along  the  natural  beach.  This 
rapid  is  a  source  of  great  annoyance,  expense,  and  delay ;  and  yet  it  is  susceptible 
of  being  so  easily  improved,  as  to  make  it  matter  of  surprise  that  it  has  not  already 
been  done. 

The  second  obstruction  is  the  Rock  Island  rapids,  very  similar  in  character  10 
those  below.  Thoy  commence  at  Rock  Island,  just  above  the  mouth  of  Rock  river, 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  31 


and  extend  eighteen  miles  up  the  Mississippi.  The  navigation  of  these  rapids  is 
about  to  be  improved  by  the  general  government,  tor  which  purpose  an  appropria- 
tion was  made  at  the  last  session  of  Congress. 

The  principal  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi  within  the  state  of  Illinois,  are  Rock, 
Illinois,  Kaskaskia,  and  Big  Muddy  rivers.  About  one  hundred  miles  below  the 
northern  boundary  of  the  state,  and  in  41°  30'  north  latitude,  Rock  river  enters  the 
Mississippi.  It  is  a  beautitul  limpid  stream,  with  a  course  of  near  400  miles,  and 
is  celebrated  for  the  purity  of  its  waters,  the  excellence  of  its  fish,  and  the  fertility 
of  the  lands  on  its  banks.  At  a  distance 'of  from  fifty  to  seventy  miles  lower  down, 
Edwards,  Pope's,  and  Henderson's  rivers  enter:  these  flow  through  fertile  prairie- 
lands  in  the  northern  part  of  the  Military  Bounty  Tract,  and,  though  unavailable 
for  the  purposes  of  navigation,  furnish  fine  mill-seats. 

In  latitude  39°  comes  in  the  Illinois  from  the  north — a  noble,  broad,  and  deep 
stream,  400  yards  wide  at  its^douth;  having  a  course,  including  its  head  tributa- 
ries, of  450  miles,  and  being  njfiugablc  for  a  great  distance.  It  is  the  most  con- 
siderable tributary  of  the  Mississippi  above  the  Missouri. 

Nearly  in  38°,  and  almost  500  miles  below  the  north  line  of  the  state,  following' 
the  windings  of  the  Mississippi,  the  Kaskaskia  river  enters.  It  runs  through  a 
fertile  and  beautiful  country,  is  150  yards  wide  at  the  mouth,  and  has  a  course  of 
nearly  300  miles  in  length. 

Upwards  of  forty  miles  lower  down  the  stream  of  the  Mississippi,  the  Big  Muddy 
comes  in  from  the  north.  It  is  a  considerable  river,  flowing  through  120  miles  of 
country,  and  remarkable  for  having  on -its  shores  fine  coal-banks. 

At  37°  north  latitude,  comes  in  the  magnificent  Ohio.  It  is  by  far  the  largest 
eastern  tributary  of  the  Mississippi.  At  the  junction,  and  for  100  miles  above,  it  is 
as  wide  as  the  parent  stream. 

The  importance  of  a  good  town-site  at  the  union  of  these  mighty  streams,  has 
for  many  years  excited  the  attention  of  the  eaterprizing.  It  is  a  feature  in  the 
rivers  of  the  western  country,  with  few  exceptions,  that  at  and  near  their  junction 
the  land  is  alluvion,  of  a  recent  formation,  and,  at  the  high  annual  floods,  usually 
inundated  to  the  depth  of  several  feet.  This  is  the  case,  particularly,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Ohio.  For^velve  miles  along  that  river  above  its  mouth,  and  a  farther 
distance  along  th£  Mississippi,  and  across  the  point  to  Cash  river,  the  country  is 
subject  to  annual  inundations.  Had  the  Author  of  Nature  formed  here  an  elevated 
situation,  nothing  could  have  prevented  this  spot  from  becoming  the  central  com- 
mercial emporium  of  the  great  western  valley.  .The  immense  trade  of  the  Ohio 
and  Mississippi,  at  some  future  day,  will  warrant.»the  expense  of  forming  an  artifi- 
cial site  at  this  point  for  a  commercial  town.  The  termination  of  the  great  central 
rail-road  through  the  state  of  Illinois  will  greatly  facilitate  this  object,  and,  with 
the  commerce  of  these  great  rivers,  build  up  a  splendid  city.  In  due  time,  art, 
enterprize,  and  perseverance,  will  triumph  over  nature  at  this  place,  and  a  large 
commercial  city  will  no  doubt  exist  where  now  the  waters  of  the  Ohio  and  Missis- 
sippi occasionally  spread. 

Rock  River  is  one  of  the  most  clear  and  beautiful  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi. 
It  has  its  source  in  Wisconsin  Territory,  a  little  to  the  north  of  latitude  43°  30', 
immediately  south-west  of  Winnebago  lake,  and  about  130  miles,  by  the  meanders 
of  the  stream,  beyond  the  northern  boundary  of  the  state.  Its  general  direction  is 
south-west,  and  it  enters  the  Mississippi  not  far  from  the  commencement  of  the. 
Military  Bounty  Lands,  after  a  course  of  about  300  miles.  It  is  said  to  be  naviga- 
ble for  upwards  of  200  miles;  and  receives  in  its  course,  about  17Q  miles  from  its 
mouth,  its  most  important  tributary,  the  Pekatonica  river;  down  wliich  stream,  one 
individual,  some  three  or  four  seasons  since,  shipped  nine  flat-boats  containing 
about  1,200,000  Ibs.  of  lead. 

A  little  above  the  mouth  of  this  stream,  in  the  Mississippi,  is  the  beautiful 
island,  called  from  the  name  of  the  river,  on  which  is  a  military  station  of  the 
United  States,  presenting  one  of  the  finest  prospects  on  the  whole  range  of  the 
Mississippi. 

The  country  towards  the  head  of  Rock  river  is  made  up  alternately  of  swamps 
and  quagmires,  ridges  of  sand  and  scrubby  oaks,  with  tracts  of  rich,  dry,  undu- 


32  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


lating  lands.  The  Terre  Tremblant,  or  trembling  lands,  is  in  this  region,  and  is 
so  called  from  the  shaking  of  the  surface,  while  crossing  over  it.  The  militia  of 
Illinois  suffered  much,  in  passing  their  horses  through  this  country,  in  1832,  while 
pursuing  the  army  of  Black  Hawk.  Much  of  the  country  through  which  this  river 
flows  in  Illinois  is  prairie.  About  the  mouth  of  Turtle  and  Sycamore  creeks  are 
large  bodies  of  timber.  It  generally  passes  along  a  channel  of  lime  and  sand- 
stone rock,  and  ti'as  several  rapids  of  some  extent  that  injure  the  navigation  at  low 
water.  The  first  is  three  or  four  miles  above  its  mouth,  the  second,  twelve  or  fif- 
teen miles  below  Dixonville :  the  next  is  just  below  the  Pekatonica  river.  These  will 
all  furnish  a  great  amount  of  water-power,  applicable  for  manufacturing  purposes. 

The  country  generally,  along  Rock  river  north  to  the  boundary  line,  is  among 
the  most  desirable  in  Illinois.  It  is  beautifully  undulating.  The  soil  is  rich  and 
fertile ;  but  the  timber  is  rather  deficient.  This,  however,  will  not  prevent  it  from 
becoming  an  extensive  agricultural  region. 

The  Kaskaskia  river  is  a  considerable  stream,  and  is  navigable,  in  those  portions 
of  the  year  when  the  water  is  high,  to  Vandalia,  150  miles  from  its  mouth ;  and 
was  ascended  by  a  steamboat  last  spring  to  Carlyle,  100  miles  from  the  Mississippi. 
It  rises  in  Champaign  county,  and,  after  a  south-west  course  of  about  300  miles, 
enters  the  Mississippi,  six  miles  below  ifrevwn  of  Kaskaskia.  Its  banks,  and 
those  of  its  tributaries,  are  generally  fertile,  ^nd  contain  some  rich  and  flourishing 
settlements.  The  country  is  mostly  undulating,  and  is  well  adapted  to  the  cultiva- 
tion of  corn,  wheat,  rye,  oats,  and  tobacco.  Cotton  is  sometimes  raised  on  its 
banks,  in  the  lower  part  of  its  course. 

The  Kaskaskia  is  about  150  yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  The  left  bank  is  high, 
and  affords  a  fine  situation  for  a  town ;  but  in  many  places  the  shores  are  low  and 
subject  to  inundation,  which  is  a  fruitful  source  of  disease. 

The  legislature,  in  its  system  of  internal  improvements,  appropriated  $50,000 
to  improve  the  navigation  of  Kaskaskia  river.  The  chief  obstructions  are  logs  and 
sand-banks,  and  short  bends.  The  chief  tributaries  of  the  Kaskaskia  are  the  Hur- 
ricane, Crooked,  Prairie,  Long,  Silver,  and  Shoal  creeks.  Its  lower  course  is  known 
to  the  French  people  by  the  name  of  the  Okau. 

The  Big  Muddy  river  (Riviere  au  Vase  ou  Vaseux),  discovered  and  named  b 
the  French,  is  a  considerable  stream  in  the  south-western  part  of  the  state.  I 
rises  in  Jefferson  county,  between  the  waters  of  the  Little  Wabash  and  Kaskaskia 
rivers,  and,  after  a  south  and  south-western  course  of  about  120  miles  through  Jef- 
ferson, Franklin,  Jackson,  and  Union  counties,  flows  into  the  Mississippi,  about  25 
miles  below  the  Kaskaskia  river,  and  8  miles  below  the  Grand  Tower ;  being  fed 
by  several  considerable  branches,  the  chief  of  which  are,  Little  Muddy  river, 
Beaucoup  creek,  and  Middle  Fork  or  Racoon  creek.  It  is  rendered  beatable  for 
40  or  50  miles  through  a  fine  grazing  and  agricultural  country.  Its  blufts  gene- 
rally are  abrupt  The  land  along  its  borders  and  branches  is  undulating,  and  for 
most  of  its  length  well  timbered.  Valuable  salines  exist  on  its  banks,  and  are 
worked  about  Brownsville,  where  there  is  an  inexhaustible  bed  of  bituminous  coal. 
Native  copper  has  been  found  on  its  banks,  in  detached  masses. 

The  Ohio  river,  which  constitutes  the  southern  boundary  of  the  state  of  Illinois, 
commences  at  Pittsburg,  where  it  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Alleghany  and 
Monongahela. 

This  stream,  from  the  beauty  of  the  country  on  its  banks,  early  obtained  from 
the  French  traders  the  name  of  La  Belle  Riviere,  or  beautiful  river.  From  its 
commencement  it  affords  most  delightful  prospects;  rivers,  of  romantic  and  beauti- 
ful character,  come  in  almost  at  equal  distances  as  lateral  canals.  Its  bottoms  are 
of  extraordinary  depth  and  fertility,  generally  high  and  dry,  and  for  the  most  part 
healthy.  Between  Pittsburg  and  the  mouth,  it  is  diversified  with  100  considerable 
islands.  Some  of  these  are  of  exquisite  beauty,  and  afford  most  lovely  situations 
for  retired  farms.  The  passages  between  them,  and  the  sand-bars  at  their  heads, 
are  among  the  difficulties  of  the  navigation  of  this  river. 

The  Ohio  at  Pittsburg  is  600  yards  wide,  at  Cincinnati  a  little  more,  and  below 
the  Cumberland  its  average  breadth  is  1000  yards.  It  is  bounded  in  ita  whole 
course  by  bluffs,  sometimes  towering  sublimely  from  the  shores  of  the  river,  and 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  33 


sometimes  receding  two  or  three  miles.  The  rapidity  of  its  current  is  found,  ac- 
cording to  the  different  stages  of  the  water,  to  vary  between  one  and  three  miles. 
In  the  lowest  stages  of  the  water  in  autumn,  a  floating  substance  would  probably 
not  advance  a  mile  an  hour.  It  is  subject  to  extreme  elevations  and  depressions. 
The  average  range  between  high  and  low  water,  is  fifty  feet.  Its  lowest  stage  is 
in  September,  and  its  highest  in  March ;  but  it  is  subject  to  sudden  and  very  con- 
siderable rises  through  the  year.  It  has  been  known  to  rise  twelve  feet  in  a  night. 
When  these  sudden  elevations  take  place,  at  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice,  a  scene 
of  desolation  sometimes  occurs :  boats,  and  every  thing  in  its  course,  are  carried 
away  by  the  accumulated  power  of  the  ice  and  the  waters 

The  elevation  of  the  river  at  Pittsburgh  is  678  feet,  and  that  of  low  water,  at  its 
confluence  with  the  Mississippi,  283  feet  in  949  miles,  the  length  of  the  interme- 
diate channel  making  an  average  descent  of  a  little  over  five  inches  in  a  mile. 
Since  the  Louisville  and  Portland  canal  has  been  completed,  steamboats  of  small 
draft  can  descend  at  all  times  from  Pittsburgh  to  the  Mississippi.  Flat  and  keel 
boats  descend  the  river  at  all  seasons,  but  in  periods  of  low  water  with  frequent 
groundings  on  the  sand-bars,  and  the  necessity  of  often  unloading  to  get  the  boat  off. 

From  the  rnouth  of  the  Wabash  to  its  confluence  with  the  Mississippi,  a  distance 
of  nearly  200  miles,  the  right  bank  of  the  Ohio  forms  the  southern  boundary  of  the 
state  of  Illinois.  In  this  distance,  its  banks  are  generally  low  and  subject  to  inun- 
dations ;  but  they  are  very  fertile. 

These  inundations,  as  on  the  Mississippi,  are  occasionally  sources  of  disease,  and 
in  many  cases  impediments  to  improvement.  There  are,  however,  some  elevated 
situations  which  afford  good  town-sites,  and  which  must  become  places  of  conside- 
rable importance.  It  is  much  to  be  regretted,  that  at  the  confluence  of  the  Ohio 
and  Mississippi  there  is  an  extensive  recently  formed  alluvion,  which  is  annually 
inundated,  and  which  cannot,  without  immense  expense,  be  made  an  eligible 
town-site.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Wabash,  the  land  is  similarly  situated.  Below 
this,  no  stream  of  any  considerable  size  empties  into  the  Ohio  within  this  state. 
The  largest  are  Cash  river,  and  Saline  and  Big  Bay  creeks. 

The  Saline  creek  is  the  largest  tributary  of  the  Ohio  within  the  limits  of  the 
state.  It  enters  that  river  a  few  miles  below  Shawneetown,  after  a  course  of  about 
75  miles  ;  and  is  formed  of  the  North,  Middle,  and  South  Forks.  The  salines,  or 
salt  springs,  from  which  the  stream  takes  its  name,  are  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town 
of  Equality,  and  are  sources  of  wealth  to  the  country,  furnishing  large  quantities 
of  salt  for  home  consumption.  To  Equality,  2*0  miles,  from  the  Ohio,  the  Saline  is 
navigable  for  steamboats  of  a  small  class.  This  stream  and  its  branches  water 
the  counties  of  Gallatin,  White,  Hamilton,  Franklin,  and  Johnson. 

The  Wabash  river  rises  in  the  northern  part  of  Indiana,  and  running  first  a 
south-west  and  then  a  south  course,  empties  into  the  Ohio  nearly  200  miles  above 
its  confluence  with  the  Mississippi.  It  is  a  beautiful  stream  about  600  miles  in 
length,  with  but  one  considerable  fall  or  rapid,  which  is  near  the  junction  of  White 
river,  below  Vincennes.  ]ji  low  water,  it  obstructs  the  navigation  very  considera- 
bly. An  act  was  passed  in  1819,  to  raise  funds  for  the  purpose  of  improving  the 
navigation  at  this  place,  by  means  of  a  canal.  For  more  than  200  miles,  the  Wa- 
bash forms  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  state.  The<character  of  the  lands  border- 
ing on  it  is  similar  to  that  on  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi,  klthough  the  alluvions  of 
the  Wabash  are  more  extensive,  and  the  inundations  more  formidable.  The  bot- 
toms of  the  Wabash  are  an  intermixture  of  prairie  and  woodland.  The  principal 
tributaries  of  the  Wabash,  in  this  state,  are  the  Big  and  Little  Vermillion,  Embar- 
ras,  and  Little  Wabash  rivers.  As  a  navigable  channel,  the  Wabash  is  a  most 
important  stream  :  its  course  seems  to  be  almost  artificially  drawn  to  form  a  part 
of  the  line  of  commarcial  connexion  between  the  Mississippi  river  and  Lake  Erie, 
by  the  most  direct  route. 

The  chief  branches  of  this  river  in  the  state  of  Illinois,  are  the  Embarras  and 
the  Little  Wabash.  The  Embarras  rises  in  Champaign  county :  it  runs  at  first 
south,  and  then  south-east;  and,  after  a  course  of  about  140  miles,  enters  the  Wa- 
bash about  six  miles  below  Vincennes.  The  country  on  the  Embarras  is  of  various 
qualities,  though  there  is  much  good  land.  Towards  its  head  the  prairie  greatly 

E  """"' 


34  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


predominates,  the  timber  being  in  groves,  and  in  narrow  strips  along  its  banks.  It 
soon  widens  to  an  extent  of  from  two  to  six  miles,  and  in  the  lower  part  of  its 
course,  frequently  from  eight  to  ten  miles.  Generally  the  prairies  through  which 
it  flows  are  second-rate  for  more  than  half  its  length  from  its  mouth.  Its  bottoms 
are  inundated  in  very  high  floods.  The  main  stream  and  its  branches  afford  many 
good  mill-seats. 

The  Little  Wabash  river  rises  in  the  large  prairies  towards  the  head-waters  of 
the  Kaskaskia,  and,  running  south,  enters  the  Wabash  in  the  north-east  corner  of 
Gallatin  county.  It  is  about  110  miles  in  a  direct  line  from  its  heads  to  its  mouth, 
though  about  150  miles,  to  follow  its  meanderings.  It  is  navigable  for  flat-boats 
and  small  craft,  at  a  full  stage  of  water;  about  forty  of  the  former  leaving  it  annu- 
ally, from  Wayne  and  White  counties,  with  beef,  pork,  corn,  cattle,  and  some  to- 
bacco, for  the  New-Orleans  market.  The  timber  upon  the  banks  of  the  Little 
Wabash  is  mostly  heavy,  and  of  a  good  quality,  and  is  several  miles  in  width.  The 
country  adjoining  is  fertile,  but  the  bottoms  are  subject  to  inundation  at  high  floods. 
Several  valuable  mills  have  been  erected  on  this  stream,  in  White  county. 

The  Illinois,  which  gives  name  to  the  state,  may  be  considered  the  most  impor- 
tant river,  whose  whole  course  is  in  it.  It  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Kanka- 
kee  and  Des  Plaines  rivers,  near  the  towns  of  Dresden  and  Kankakee.  Thence 
it  flows  nearly  a  west  course,\until  a  £hort  distance  above  Hennepin:  here  it 
curves  to  the  south,  and  thento  i.he  south-west  Passing  Peoria,  Pekin,  Havanna, 
and  Beardstown,  it  reaches  Naples.  Hence  to  its  mouth,  its  course  is  mostly  due 
south.  It  enters  the  Mississippi  20  miles 'above  the  Missouri.  At  high  floods  the 
river  overflows  its  banks,  and  covers  its  bottoms  for  a  considerable  extent.  The 
Mississippi,  at  extreme  high  water,  backs  up  the  Illinois  about  seventy  miles  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Mauvaiseterre  creeki/ 

The  commerce  of  the  river  is'-extensiye,  and  increasing  with  a  rapidity  known 
only  to  the  rich  agricultural  regimes  of  the  Western  States.  Several  steamboats 
are  constantly  employed  in-jts  trade,  and  many  others  make  occasional  trips: 
about  thirty-five  different  boats  .passed  ^rid'landed  at  Beardstown  in  1836,  making 
the  arrivals  and  departures  450.  The-  year  1828  was  the  commencement  of  steam 
navigation  on  this  river.  *. 

Forty  miles  below  the  junction  of  the  Kankakee  and  Des  Plaines,  the  Illinois 
receives  the  Fox  river  from  the  north.  Both  above  and  below  the  mouth  of  this 
stream,  there  is  a  succession  of  rapids  in  the  Illinois,  with  intervals  of  deep  and 
smooth  water.  From  the  mouth  of  Fox  river  to  the  foot  of  the  rapids  is  nine 
miles,  the  descent,  in  all,  eight  feet ;  the  rock  soft  sandstone  mixed  with  gravel  and 
shelly  limestone.  Nine  miles  above  Fox  river,  the  grand  rapids  commence,  and 
extend  ten  or  twelve  miles.  They  are  formed  by  ledges  of  rocks  in  the  river  and 
rocky  islands.  The  whole  descent  from  the  surface  of  Lake  Michigan  at  Chicago 
to  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  a  distance  of  94£  miles,  is  141-^  feet 

At  the  foot  of  the  rapids  the  Vermillion  river  enters  the  Illinois  from  the  south, 
by  a  mouth  of  about  fifty  yards  wide :  it  is  an  excellent  mill-stream,  and  runs 
through  extensive  beds  of  bituminous  coal.  About  60  miles  down  the  Illinois 
from  the  termination  of  the  rapids,  commences  Peoria  Lake,  an  expansion  of  the 
river,  and  about  twenty  miles  in  length  by  two  in  width.  Such  are  the  depth  and 
regularity  of  the  bottom,  that  it  has  no  perceptible  current  whatever.  Its  waters 
are  very  transparent  its  margin  exhibits  a  beautiful  scenery,  and  its  surface  is  fre- 
quently covered  with  innumerable  flocks  of  pelicans,  swans,  geese,  and  ducks.  It 
also  abounds  with  every  variety  of  fish  to  be  found  in  any  of  the  western  waters. 

A  few  miles  below  Lake  Peoria,  the  Mackinaw'river  comes  into  the  Illinois  on 
the  east  side  from  the  south :  it  is  about  100  miles  in  length,  and  is  boatable  a  con- 
siderable distance.  It  rises  in  the  prairie,  near  the  eastern  part  of  M'Lean 
county;  and,  running  south-westwardly  through  Tazewell  county,  enters  the  Illi- 
nois about  three  miles  below  Pekin.  About  twenty-five  miles  below,  and  directly 
opposite  the  town  of  Havanna,  the  Spoon  river  enters  the  Illinois  from  the  west: 
it  is  a  beautiful  stream,  the  most  considerable  of  those  which  water  the  interior 
of  the  Military  Bounty  Tract  It  is  navigable  only  a  short  distance.  It  has  a 
course  of  about  140  miles. 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  35 

About  eight  miles  above  Beardstown  the  Sangamon  river  enters  the  Illinois  from 
the  east.  It  is  one  of  the  most  prominent  branches  of  the  Illinois,  and  has  a 
course  of  about  180  miles,  with  a  boat  navigation  of  120  or  130  miles.  From  its 
position,  and  the  excellence  of  its  lands,  it  is  one  of  the  most  important  streams 
of  the  state.  Crooked  creek,  next  to  Spoon  river,  is  the  most  considerable  stream 
that  waters  the  Military  Bounty  Tract.  From  its  volume  and  length  of  course, 
it  deserves  the  name  of  river,  but  is  mostly  designated  by  the  interior  title.  It 
enters  from  the  west,  a  few  miles  below  Beardstown,  and  has  a  course  of  about 
100  miles. 

Below  Crooked  creek,  and  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  are  Indian,  Mauvaise- 
terre,  and  Sandy  creeks  in  Morgan,  and  Apple  and  Macoupin  creeks  in  Greene 
county :  these  are  all  beautiful  streams,  and  meander  through  some  of  the  best 
populated  and  fertile  tracts  of  country  in  the  state.  M'Kee's  creek,  emptying  on 
the  west  side,  is  the  lowest  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Illinois  of  any  note  that  waters 
the  Military  Bounty  Tract:  the  land  on  this  creek  and  its  branches  is  excellent, 
and  well  proportioned  into  timber  and  prairie,  which  is  gently  undulating,  and 
rich.  The  settlements  are  already  large,  and  increasing  from  emigration. 

In  the  Illinois  river  there  are  but  few  sand-bars  and  impediments  of  any  conse- 
quence until  we  reach  the  Starved  Rock,  about  one  mile  above  the  town  of  Utica. 
Here  we  meet  with  the  first  permanent  obstruction,  being  a  ledge  of  sandstone 
rocks  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the  lower  rapids,  and  extending  entirely  across 
the  bed  of  the  river.  This  point  is  210-miles  by  the  course  of  the  Illinois  from 
the  Mississippi.  The  town  of  Utica  uftay  therewe  be  justly  considered  as  the 
head  of  steamboat  navigation  of  the  Illinois  river,  although  steamers  at  high 
water  frequently  ascend  nine  miles  farther  to  Ottawa.  The  sum  of  100,000  dol- 
lars has  been  appropriated  by  the  legislature  of  the  state  to  improve  the  navigation 
of  the  Illinois,  which  may  be  made  good  at  all  stages  of  the  water. 

For  a  great  distance  above  its  mouth,  the  .river  is  almost  as  straight  as  a  canal. 
It  has  in  summer  scarcely  a  perceptible  current;  and  the  waters,  though  transpa- 
rent, have  a  marshy  taste,  to  a  degree  to  be  almost  unpotable.  The  river  is  wide 
and  deep,  and,  for  the  greater  part  of  its'* yrid'tli,  is  filled  with  aquatic  weeds,  to 
such  a  degree  that  no  person  could  swim  a^mong  them.  Only  a  few  yards  width, 
in  the  centre  of  the  stream,  is  free  from  them.  It  enters  the  Mississippi,  through 
a  deep  forest,  by  a  mouth  400  yards  wide.  Perhaps  no  river  of  the  Western 
Country  has  so  fine  a  boatable  navigation  for  the  same  distance,  or  waters  a  richer 
and  more  luxuriant  tract  of  country. 

On  the  banks  of  this  river  the  first  French  emigrants  from  Canada  settled  them- 
selves ;  and  here  was  the  scenery  on  which  they  founded  their  extravagant  pane- 
gyrics upon  the  Western  Country. 

By  the  Chicago  and  Illinois  Canal^  now  in  progress,  the  waters  of  this  stream 
will  be  united  to  those  of  Lake'  Michigan,  and  will  form  one  of  the  most  important 
links  in  the  chain  of  internal  navigable  waters  of  the  United  States.  Nature 
seems  to  have  accomplished  a  great  share  of  the  necessary  labour  to  effect  at  this 
grand  improvement.  The  canal  distance  from  the  foot  of  the  rapids  to  Lake 
Michigan  will  be  near  100  miles. 

The  principal  tributaries  of  the  Illinois  river  are  the  Kankakee,  Des  Plaines, 
Fox,  Spoon,  and  Sangamon  rivers.  These  are  all  considerable  streams,  and  are, 
after  the  Illinois,  Kaskaskia,  and  Rock  river,  the  most  important  in  the  state. 

The  Kankakee,  or  Thcakiki,  is  the  eastern  head  branch  of  the  Illinois.  It  rises 
in  the  north-east  part  of  the  state  of  Indiana,  two  or  three  miles  from  the  south 
bend  of  St.  Joseph's  river,  from  whence  running  in  a  westerly  and  north-westerly 
direction  through  the  north-eastern  part  of  Illinois,  it  unites  with  the  Des  Plaines 
and  forms  the  Illinois,  forty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Fox  river.  The  Kankakee 
has  a  course  of  about  150  miles,  and  is  upwards  of  200  yards  wide  at  its  mouth. 
The  prairie  country  through  which  it  passes  is  generally  of  good  soil.  This  river 
was  discovered  at  an  early  period  by  the  French,  and  was  one  of  the  principal 
routes  used  by  them  in  passing  to  the  Mississippi.  Navigation  for  small  craft  can  be 
effected,  in  high  stages  of  the  water,  from  t!ie  St.  Joseph's  river  into  the  Kankakee. 
The  latter,  for  the  first  fifty  miles  of  its  course,  flows  through  an  extensive  swamp. 


36  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


The  Des  Plaines  river  is  the  northern  head  branch  of  the  Illinois.  It  rises  in 
Wisconsin  Territory,  a  few  miles  west  of  the  town  of  Racine,  on  Lake  Michigan, 
and  flowing  through  the  north  part  of  the  state,  it  joins  the  Kankakee  at  the  bound- 
ary line  between  La  Salle  and  Will  counties,  where  they  form  the  Illinois  river. 
The  Dee  Plaines,  in  its  course  of  150  miles,  runs  generally  over  a  bed  of  limestone. 
The  country  along  its  borders  is  populating  rapidly,  notwithstanding  the  apparent 
deficiency  of  timber.  About  forty-two  miles  above  the  mouth  of  this  stream  is  a 
swamp  connecting  it  with  the  Chicago  river,  through  which  boats  of  some  burden 
have  often  been  navigated  into  Lake  Michigan.  This  route  was  used  by  the 
traders  as  a  medium  of  communication  between  the  great  lakes  and  the  Mississippi, 
from  the  first  discovery  of  the  country  by  Europeans; — this  circumstance  first 
suggested  the  idea  of  an  artificial  connexion  by  means  of  a  canal  at  this  point.  In 
the  bed  of  the  Des  Plaines,  about  forty  rods  above  its  junction  with  the  Kankakee, 
there  is  a  fossil  tree,  of  a  very  considerable  size.  It  is  a  species  of  phytolites,  and 
is  embedded  in  a  horizontal  position  in  a  stratum  of  newer  floetz  sandstone,  of  a 
gray  colour  and  close  grain.  There  are  fifty-one  feet  six  inches  of  the  trunk  visi- 
ble. It  is  eighteen  inches  in  diameter. 

The  Fox  river  is  one  of  the  principal  tributaries  of  the  Illinois,  and  rises  in 
Wisconsin  Territory,  about  twenty  miles  north-west  from  Milwaukee,  on  Lake 
Michigan.  Its  general  direction  is  south,  inclining  to  the  west ;  and,  after  a  course 
of  about  170  miles,  it  enters  the  Illinois  river  at  Ottawa,  219  miles  from  the  Mis- 
sissippi. 

At  the  rapids,  five  miles  above  its  mouth,  are  extensive  water-privileges.  Here 
the  river  is  from  80  to  100  yards  wide.  The  rapids  are  sixteen  feet  descent,  and 
both  sides  of  the  stream  will  admit  of  mills  and  machinery  for  three-fourths  of  a 
mile,  with  inexhaustible  supplies  of  water.  This, stream  flows  through  a  fine 
prairie  country,  of  a  dark  rich  soil.  Nearly  the  whole  range  of  Fox  river  in  Illi- 
nois is  through  unsurveyed  land :  for  nearly  the  entire  distance,  it  is  thickly  settled. 
Towns  and  villages  are  springing  up  as  if  by  magic.  Its  chief  tributaries  are 
Indian,  Somonauk,  Rock,  and  Blackberry  creeks. 

The  Sangamon  is  one  of  the  most  important  tributaries  of  the  Illinois :  it  enters 
that  river  about  100  miles  above  Hs  mouth,  and  ten  miles  above  Beardstown.  It 
rises  in  the  attached  part  of  Venailjipn  county,  and  heads  with  the  Mackinaw,  the 
Vermillion  river  of  the  Illinois,  the^pig  Vermillion,  and  other  streams.  Its  length 
of  course  is  about  180  miles,  and,  it  is  navigable  for  small  steamboats,  when  the 
waters  are  high,  to  the  junction  of  the  north  and  south  forks,  a  distance  from  the 
Illinois  of  about  75  miles;  and,  at  a  small  expense  in  clearing  out  the  principal 
branches,  they  might  be  made  boatable  for  small  craft  a  considerable  distance  fur- 
ther than  they  have  yet  been  navigated.  In  the  spring  of  1832,  a  steamboat  of  the 
larger  class  arrived  within  five  miles  of  Springfield,  and  discharged  its  cargo. 
Arrangements  are  in  progress  for  running  permanently,  this  fall  (1837),  a  small 
class  steamboat  from  the  towns  on  the  Illinois  to  Petersburg,  on  the  leil  bank  of 
the  Sangamon,  and  about  45  miles  from  its  mouth. 

All  the  streams  that  enter  this  river  have  sandy  and  pebbly  bottoms,  and  clear  and 
transparent  waters.  The  Sangamon  bottoms  have  a  soil  of  extraordinary  fertility, 
and  rear  from  their  rich  black  mould  a  forest  of  enormous  sycamore  and  other 
forest  trees ;  huge  overgrown  masses,  towering  to  a  great  height  above  the  head  of 
the  passer-by.  The  Sangamon  river  and  its  branches  flow  through  one  of  the  rich- 
est and  most  delightful  portions  of  the  great  West  The  beautiful  and  fertile 
prairies  on  its  banks  will  aftbrd  range  for  thousands  of  cattle,  for  many  years. 
The  general  aspect  of  the  Sangamon  country  is  level ;  yet  it  is  sufficiently  undu- 
lating to  permit  the  water  to  escape  to  the  creeks.  It  will  soon  constitute  one  of 
the  richest  agricultural  districts  in  the  United  States,  the  soil  being  of  such  a 
nature  that  immense  crops  can  be  raised  with  little  agricultural  labour. 

The  principal  branches  of  the  Sangamon  are  the  South  Fork  and  Salt  creek. 

The  latter  is  a  fine  stream  of  about  90  miles  in  length :  it  heads  near  the  mam 

stream  of  the  Sangamon,  and  receives  in  its  course  several  considerable  tributaries, 

j  of  which  the  chief  are  Kickapoo  and  Salt  creeks.     The  South  Fork  is  about  70 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  37 


miles  in  length  of  course.  It  rises  in  Shelby  county,  and,  flowing  west  and  north- 
west, enters  the  Sangamon  about  seven  miles  east  of  Springfield. 

Spoon  river  is  a  considerable  tributary  of  the  Illinois,  and  is  the  largest  stream 
that  waters  the  Military  Bounty  lands.  It  rises  in  the  north-eastern  part  of  the 
tract,  and  after  a  course  mostly  south-west,  through  the  counties  of  Putnam,  Peo- 
ria,  Knox,  and  Fulton,  of  about  140  miles  in  extent,  it  enters  the  Illinois  river  by 
a  mouth  40 yards  wide,  directly  opposite  the  town  of  Havanna  in  Tazewell  county, 
and  about  125  miles  from  the  Mississippi.  The  lands  on  Spoon  river  and  its 
branches  are  considered  among  the  most  eligible  for  settlement  in  this  section  of 
the  state ;  being  high,  undulating,  well  watered,  and  handsomely  diversified  with 
prairie  and  timber.  Of  the  latter,  large  bodies  line  the  banks  of  the  river  and  its 
tributaries.  They  also  furnish  many  excellent  mill-seats.  This  stream  can  be 
navigated  for  only  a  few  miles;  but,  at  a  trifling  expense  in  clearing  out  the  trees 
and  rafts  of  timber,  it  might  be  made  navigable  for  one-half  of  the  year  to  the 
Forks.  These,  which  are  the  principal  head  branches  of  Spoon  river,  are  called 
the  East  and  West  Forks,  and  constitute,  with  the  South  Fork,  the  chief  tributa- 
ries of  this  stream. 

The  East  Fork  rises  in  the  western  part  of  Putnam  county,  and,  after  a  course 
of  between  40  and  50  miles,  is  joined  by  the  West  Fork.  There  is  much  excellent 
land  on  this  fork  and  its  branches;  prairie  predominates,  but  it  is  generally  dry  and 
rich,  with  groves  and  points  of  timber,  and  many  fine  springs. 

The  West  Fork  rises  in  the  south-east  part  of  Henry  county,  runs  a  south-east- 
erly course,  and  unites  with  the  East  Fork  near  the  boundary  line  between  Putnam 
and  Peoria  counties.  The  country  adjoining  is  similar  to  that  on  the  East  Fork, 
except  that  the  surface  is  more  undulating.  The  timber  is  good,  and  in  consider- 
able bodies.  Near  the  junction  of  these  streams  is  much  excellent  timber,  with  a 
strip  of  fertile  prairie  between.  Here  is  a  considerable  settlement,  called  Essex's 
Settlement,  containing  a  grist  and  saw-mill,  and  a  post-office. 

The  South  Fork  rises  in  Warren  county,  near  the  head-of  Ellison  creek,  runs  a 
south-easterly  course,  and  unites  with  the  main  stream  about  50  miles  from  the 
Illinois  river.  Some  of  the  best  land  in  the  state  lies  on  this  stream.  This  is 
frequently  called  the  West  Fork. 

MINERALS  * 

Coal,  salt,  lime,  lead,  iron,  and  copper,  are  among  the  known  mineral  productions 
of  Illinois;  but  the  soil  has  not  yet  been  much  exploited  for  its  hidden  treasures. 
Coal,  secondary  limestone,  and  sandstone,  exist  in  almost  every  quarter. 

Lead  is  found  in  the  north-western  part  of  the  state  in  vast  quantities :  the  lead 
diggings  extend  from  the  Wisconsin  to  the  vicinity  of  Rock  river,  and  on  both 
sides  of  the  Mississippi.  The  Indians  and  French  had  been  long  accustomed  to 
procure  small  quantities  of  the  ore,  but  it  was  not  until  1822  that  the  process  of 
separating  the  metal  was  begun  to  be  carried  on.  Since  that  time,  up  to  the  end 
of  1835, 70,420,357  pounds  of  lead  have  been  made  here,  and  upwards  of  13,000,000 
pounds  have  been  smelted  in  one  year ;  but  the  business  having  been  overdone,  the 
product  has  since  been  much  less.  In  1833,  it  was  7,941,792  pounds;  in  1834, 
7,971,579;  and  in  1835,  only  3,754,290.  This  statement  includes  the  produce  of 
Wisconsin  Territory,  as  well  as  of  Illinois.  The  rent  accruing  to  government  for 
the  same  period,  is  a  fraction  short  of  6,000,000  pounds.  Formerly,  the  government 
received  ten  per  cent,  in  lead  for  rents.  Now  it  is  six  per  cent. 

A  part  of  the  mineral  land  in  the  Wisconsin  Territory  has  been  surveyed  and 
brought  into  market,  which  will  add  greatly  to  the  stability  and  prosperity  of  the 
mining  business.  It  is  expected  that  the  mineral  lands  in  Illinois  will  soon  be  in 
market. 

Iron  ore  has  been  found  in  the  southern  parts  of  the  state,  and  is  said  to  exist  in 
considerable  quantities  in  the  northern  parts. 

Native  copper,  in  large  quantities,  exists  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state,  espe- 
cially at  the  mouth  of  Plum  creek,  and  on  the  Pekatonica.  It  is  also  found  in 
small  quantities  on  Muddy  river,  in  Jackson  county,  and  back  of  Harrisonville,  in 


38  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


the  bluffs  of  Monroe  county.  A  shaft  was  sunk  40  feet  deep  in  1817,  in  search  of 
this  metal,  but  without  success. 

Silver  is  supposed  to  exist  in  St.  Clair  county,  two  miles  from  Rock  Spring, 
whence  Silver  creek  derives  its  name.  In  the  early  times,  by  the  French,  a  shaft 
was  sunk  here,  and  tradition  tells  of  large  quantities  of  the  precious  metal  being 
obtained.  In  the  southern  part  of  the  state,  several  sections  of  land  have  been  re- 
served from  sale,  on  account  of  the  silver  ore  they  are  supposed  to  contain.  Mar- 
ble of  a  fine  quality  is  found  in  Randolph  county.  Crystallized  gypsum  has  been 
found  in  small  quantities  in  St.  Clair  county.  Quartz  crystals  exist  in  Gallatin 
county. 

Bituminous  coal  abounds  in  this  state,  and  may  be  found  in  nearly  every  county. 
It  is  frequently  perceived  without  excavation  in  the  ravines  and  at  the  points  of 
bluffs.  Vast  beds  of  this  mineral  exist  in  the  bluffs  adjacent  to  the  American'  Bot- 
tom in  St.  Clair  County,  of  which  large  quantities  are  annually  transported  to  St. 
Louis  for  fuel.  A  rail-road  is  now  constructing  by  a  private  company,  from  the 
bluffs  to  the  ferry,  six  miles,  for  the  purpose  of  transporting  coal  to  St.  Louis. 

A  large  vein  of  coal,  several  feet  thick,  and  apparently  exhaustless,  has  been 
struck  in  excavating  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal,  a  few  miles  below  Ottawa. 
A  bed  of  anthracite  coal,  it  is  said,  has  been  discovered  on  Muddy  river  in  Jackson 
county. 

Muriate  of  soda,  or  common  salt,  has  been  found  in  various  parts  of  the  state, 
held  in  solution  in  the  springs.  The  manufacture  of  salt  by  boiling  and  evapora- 
tion is  carried  on  in  Gallatin  county,  12  miles  west-north-west  from  Shawneetown  ; 
in  Jackson  county,  near  Brownsville ;  and  in  Vermillion  county,  near  Danville. 
The  springs  and  land  are  owned  by  the  state,  and  the  works  leased.  A  coarse 
freestone,  much  used  in  building,  is  dug  from  quarries  near  Alton,  on  the  Missis- 
sippi, where  large  bodies  exist. 

Medicinal  waters  are  found  in  different  parts  of  the  state.  These  are  chiefly 
sulphur  springs  and  chalybeate  waters.  There  is  said  to  be  one  well  in  the  south- 
ern part  of  the  state  strongly  impregnated  with  the  sulphate  of  magnesia,  or  Epsom 
salts,  from  which  considerable  quantities  have  been  made  for  sale,  by  simply  evapo- 
rating the  water,  in  a  kettle,  over  a  common  fire.  There  are  several  sulphur 

springs  in  Jefferson  county,  to  which  persons  resort  for  health, 
•,*V;  •  i, 

ANIMALS. 

There  are  several  kinds  of  wild  animals  in  the  state  of  Illinois:  of  these,  the 
principal  and  most  numerous  are  deer,  wolves,  raccoons,  opossums,  &c.  Several 
species  formerly  common  have  become  scarce,  and  are  constantly  retreating  before 
the  march  of  civilization  ;  and  some  are  no  longer  to  be  found.  The  buffalo  has 
entirely  left  the  limits  of  the  state,  and  indeed  all  the  settled  parts  of  the  Western 
Country,  and  is  now  found  only  on  the  head-waters  of  the  Mississippi  and  its  tribu- 
taries, and  on  the  vast  prairies  west  of  the  Missouri  river.  This  animal  once 
roamed  at  large  over  the  plains  of  Illinois ;  and,  so  late  as  the  commencement  of 
the  present  century,  was  found  in  considerable  numbers ;  and  traces  of  them  are 
still  remaining1,  in  the  buffalo  paths,  which  are  to  be  seen  in  several  parts  of  the 
state.  These  are  well-beaten  tracks,  leading  generally  from  the  prairies  in  the 
interior  of  the  state  to  the  margins  of  the  large  rivers,  showing  the  course  of  their 
migrations  as  they  changed  their  pastures  periodically,  from  the  low  marshy  allu- 
vion, to  the  dry  upland  plains.  Their  paths  are  narrow,  and  remarkably  direct, 
showing  that  the  animals  travelled  in  single  file  through  the  woods,  and" pursued 
the  most  direct  course  to  their  places  of  destination. 

Deer  are  more  abundant  than  at  the  first  settlement  of  the  country.  They  in- 
crease, to  a  certain  extent,  with  the  population.  The  reason  of  this  appears  to  be, 
that  they  find  protection  in  the  neighbourhood  of  man  from  the  beasts  of  prey  that 
assail  them  in  the  wilderness,  and  from  whose  attacks  their  young  particularly  can 
with  difficulty  escape.  They  suffer  most  from  the  wolves,  who  hunt  in  packs,  like 
hounds,  and  who  seldom  give  up  the  chase  until  the  deer  is  taken. 

Immense  numbers  of  deer  are  killed  every  year  by  the  hunters,  who  take  them 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  39 


for  the  hams  and  skins  alone,  throwing  away  the  rest  of  the  carcase.  Venison 
hams  and  hides  are  important  articles  of  export.  Fresh  hams  usually  sell  at  from 
75  cents  to  $1.50  a  pair,  and  when  properly  cured,  are  a  delicious  article  of  food. 

There  are  several  ways  of  hunting  deer,  all  of  which  are  equally  simple.  Most 
generally  the  hunter  proceeds  to  the  woods  on  horseback,  in  the  day-time,  select- 
ing particularly  certain  hours  which  are  thought  to  be  most  favourable.  It  is  said, 
that  during  the  season  when  the  pastures  are  green,  this  animal  rises  from  its  lair 
precisely  at  the  rising  of  the  moon,  whether  in  the  day  or  night ;  such  is  the  uni- 
form testimony  of  experienced  hunters.  If  it  be  true,  it  is  certainly  a  curious  dis- 
play of  animal  instinct.  This  hour,  therefore,  is  always  kept  in  view  by  the  hun- 
ter, as  he  rides  slowly  through  the  forest  with  his  rifle  on  his  shoulder,  while  his 
keen  eye  penetrates  the  surrounding  shades.  On  beholding  a  deer,  the  hunter 
slides  from  his  horse,  and  while  the  deer  is  observing  the  latter,  creeps  upon  him, 
keeping  the  largest  trees  between  himself  and  the  object  of  pursuit,  until  he  gets 
near  enough  to  fire.  An  expert  woodsman  seldom  fails  to  hit  his  game. 

Another  mode  is,  to  watch  at  night,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  salt-licks.  These 
are  spots  where  the  earth  is  impregnated  with  saline  particles,  or  where  the  salt- 
water oozes  through  the  soil.  Deer  and  other  grazing  animals  frequent  such 
places,  and  remain  tor  hours  licking  the  earth.  The  hunter  secretes  himself  here, 
either  in  the  thick  top  of  a  tree,  or,  most  generally,  in  a  screen  erected  for  the 
purpose,  and  artfully  concealed,  like  a  masked  battery,  with  logs  or  green  boughs. 
This  practice  is  pursued  only  in  the  summer,  or  early  in  the  autumn,  in  cloudless 
nights,  when  the  moon  shines  brilliantly,  and  objects  may  be  readily  discovered. 
At  the  rising  of  the  moon,  or  shortly  after,  the  deer,  having  risen  from  their  beds, 
approach  the  lick.  Such  places  are  generally  bare  of  timber,  but  surrounded  by 
it,  and  as  the  animal  is  about  to  emerg'e'Trom  the  shade  into  the  clear  moonlight, 
he  stops,  looks  cautiously  around,  and  snuffs  the  air.  Then  he  advances  a  few 
steps,  and  stops  again,  smells  the  ground,  or  raises  his  expanded  nostrils,  as  if  he 
'snuffed  the  approach  of  danger  in  every  tainted  breeze.'  The  hunter  sits  motion- 
less, and  almost  breathless,  waiting  until  the  animal  shall  get  within  rifle-shot,  and 
until  its  position  in  relation  to  the  hunter  and  the  light,  shall  be  favourable,  when 
he  fires  with  an  unerring  aim.  A  few  deer  only  can  be  thus  killed  in  one  night, 
and  after  a  few  nights  these  timorous  animals  are  driven  from  the  haunts  which 
are  thus  disturbed. 

Many  of  the  frontier  people  dress  deer-skins,  and  make  them  into  pantaloons 
and  hunting-shirts.  These  articles  are  indispensable  to  all  who  have  occasion  to 
travel  in  viewing  land,  or  for  any  other  purpose,  beyond  the  settlements,  as  cloth 
garments,  in  the  shrubs  and  vines,  would  soon  be  in  strings. 

It  is  a  novel  and  pleasant  sight  to  a  stranger,  to  see  the  deer  in  flocks  of  eight, 
ten,  or  fifteen  in  number,  feeding  on  the  grass  of  the  prairies,  or  bounding  away 
at  the  sight  of  a  traveller. 

The  elk  has  disappeared.  A  few  have  been  seen  in  late  years,  and  some  taken; 
but  it  is  not  known  that  any  remain  at  this  time,  within  the  limits  of  the  state. 

The  bear  is  seldom  seen.  This  animal  inhabits  those  parts  of  the  country  that 
are  thickly  wooded,  and  delights  particularly  in  the  cane-brakes,  where  it  feeds  in 
the  winter  on  the  tender  shoots  of  the  young  cane.  The  meat  is  tender  and  finely 
flavoured,  and  is  esteemed  a  great  delicacy. 

Wolves  are  numerous  in  most  parts  of  the  state.  There  are  two  kinds — the 
common  or  black  wolf,  and  the  prairie  wolf.  The  former  is  a  large  fierce  animal, 
and  very  destructive  to  sheep,  pigs,  calves,  poultry,  and  even  young  colts.  They 
hunt  in  packs,  and  after  using  every  stratagem  to  circumvent  their  prey,  attack  it 
with  remarkable  ferocity.  Like  the  Indian,  they  always  endeavour  to  surprise 
their  victim,  and  strike  the  mortal  blow  without  exposing  themselves  to  danger. 
They  seldom  attack  man,  except  when  asleep  or  wounded.  The  largest  animals, 
when  wounded,  entangled,  or  otherwise  disabled,  become  their  prey ;  but  in  gene- 
ral they  only  attack  such  as  are  incapable  of  resistance.  Their  most  common  prey 
is  the  deer,  which  they  hunt  regularly;  but  all  defenceless  animals  are  alike  ac- 
ceptable to  their  ravenous  appetites.  When  tempted  by  hunger  they  approach  the 
farm-houses  in  the  night,  and  snatch  their  prey  from  under  the  very  eye  of  the 


40  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


farmer;  and  when  the  latter  is  absent  with  his  dogs,  the  wolf  is  sometimes  seen 
by  the  females  lurking  about  in  mid-day,  as  if  aware  of  the  unprotected  state  of 
the  family. 

The  smell  of  burning  assafoetida  has  a  remarkable  effect  upon  this  animal.  If  a 
fire  be  made  in  the  woods,  and  a  portion  of  this  drug  thrown  into  it,  so  as  to  satu- 
rate the  atmosphere  with  the  odour,  the  wolves,  if  any  are  within  reach  of  the 
scent,  immediately  assemble  around,  howling  in  the  most  mournful  manner ;  and 
such  is  the  remarkable  fascination  under  which  they  seem  to  labour,  that  they  will 
often  suffer  themselves  to  be  shot  down  rather  than  leave  the  spot 

The  prairie  wolf  is  a  smaller  species,  but  little  larger  than  a  fox,  and  takes  its 
name  from  its  habit  of  residing  entirely  upon  the  open  plains.  Even  when  hunted 
with  dogs,  it  will  make  circuit  after  circuit  round  the  prairie,  carefully  avoiding 
the  forest,  or  only  dashing  into  it  occasionally  when  hard  pressed,  and  then  return- 
ing to  the  plain.  In  size  and  appearance  this  animal  is  midway  between  the  wolf 
and  the  fox,  and  in  colour  it  resembles  the  latter,  being  of  a  very  light  red.  It 
preys  upon  poultry,  rabbits,  young  pigs,  calves,  &c,  .The  most  friendly  relations 
subsist  between  it  and  the  common  wolf,  and  they  constantly  hunt  in  packs  to- 
gether. Nothing  is  more  Common  than  to  see  a  large  black  wolf  in  company  with 
several  prairie  wolves. 

The  tbx  abounds  in  some  places  in  gr«t  numbers,  though,  generally  speaking, 
the  animal  is  scarce.  It  will  undoubtedl^ncrease  with  the  population. 

The  panther  and  wild  cat  are  occasionally  found  in  the  forests.  The  open  coun- 
try is  not  well  suited  to  their  shy  habits,  and  they  are  less  frequently  seen  than  in 
the  neighbouring  states. 

The  beaver  and  otter  were  once  numerous,  but  are  now  seldom  seen,  except  on 
the  frontiers. 

There  are  no  rats,  except  along  the  large  rivers,  where  they  have  landed  from 
the  boats. 

Wild  horses  are  found  rangifig  the  prairies  and  forests  in  some  parts  of  the  state. 
They  are  small  in  size,  of  the  Indian  or  Canadian  breed,  and  very  hardy.  They 
are  caught  in  pens,  or  with  rdj>es  having  nooses  attached  to  them,  and  broken  to 
the  saddle  and  harness.  The  French,  who  monopolize  the  business  of  catching 
and  breaking  these  horses,  make  them  an  article  of  traffic ;  their  common  price  is 
from  20  to  30  dollars.  They  are  found  .chiefly  in  the  lower  end  of  the  American 
Bottom,  near  the  junction  qf-the  Kaskaskia  and  Mississippi  rivers,  called  the  Point. 
They  are  the  offspring  of  the*,llorses  brought  there  by  the  first  settlers,  and  which 
were  suffered  to  run  at  large.  The  Indians  of  the  West  have  many  such  horses, 
which  are  commonly  called  Indian  ponies. 

The  gray  and  fpx  squirrels  often  do  mischief  in  the  corn-fields,  and  the  hunting 
of  them  makes  fine  sport  for  the  boys.  It  is  a  rule  amongst  the  Kentucky  rifle- 
men to  shoot  a  squirrel  only  through  his  eyes,  and  that  from  the  tops  of  the  highest 
trees  of  the  forest.  It  is  evidence  of  a  bad  marksman,  for  a  hunter  to  hit  one  in 
any  other  part. 

The  gophar  is  a  singular  little  animal,  about  the  size  of  a  squirrel.  It  burrows 
in  the  ground,  is  seldom  seen,  but  its  works  make  it  known.  It  labours  during 
the  night,  in  digging  subterranean  passages  in  the  rich  soil  of  the  prairies,  and 
throws  up  hillocks  of  fresh  earth,  within  a  few  feet  distance  from  each  other,  and 
from  12  to  18  inches  in  height.  They  form  these  by  removing  the  earth  from 
their  holes,  by  means  of  a  pouch  with  which  nature  has  furnished  them  on  each 
side  of  their  mouth ;  a  dozen  of  these  hillocks  has  been  seen,  the  production  of 
one  night's  labour,  and  apparently  from  a  single  gophar.  The  passages  are  formed 
in  such  a  labyrinth,  that  it  is  a  difficult  matter  to  find  the  animal  by  digging. 
They  are  very  mischievous  in  corn  and  potatoe  fields,  and  in  gardens  they  prey 
upon  all  kinds  of  bulbous  roots.  Their  bite  is  said  to  be  poisonous. 

The  polecat  is  very  destructive  to  poultry. 

The  raccoon  and  opossum  are  very  numerous,  and  extremely  troublesome  to  the 
farmer,  as  they  not  only  attack  his  poultry,  but  plunder  his  corn-fields.  They  are 
hunted  by  boys,  and  large  numbers  of  them  destroyed.  The  skins  of  the  raccoon 
pay  well  for  the  trouble  of  taking  them,  as  the  fur  is  in  demand. 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  41 


Rabbits  are  very  abundant,  and  in  some  places  extremely  destructive  to  the 
young  orchards  and  to  garden  vegetables.  The  fence  around  a  nursery  must 
always  be  so  close  as  to  shut  out  rabbits,  and  young  apple-trees  must  be  secured  at 
the  approach  of  winter,  by  tying  straw  or  corn  stalks  around  their  bodies,  for  two 
or  three  feet  in  height,  or  the  bark  will  be  stripped  off  by  these  mischievous  ani- 
mals. 

The  ponds,  lakes  and  rivers,  during  the  spring  and  autumn,  and  during  the  mi- 
grating season  of  water-fowls,  are  literally  covered  with  swans,  pelicans,  cranes, 
geese,  brants,  and  ducks,  of  all  the  tribes  and  varieties.  Many  of  these  fowls  rear 
their  young  on  the  islands  and  sand-bars  of  the  large  rivers.  In  the  autumn,  mul- 
titudes of  them  are  killed  for  their  quills,  feathers,  and  flesh. 

The  prairie  fowl  is  seen  in  great  numbers  on  the  prairies  in  the  summer,  and 
about  tUe  corn-fields  hi  the  winter.  This  is  the  grouse  of  the  New- York  market 
They  are  easily  taken  in  the  winter,  and  when  fat  are  excellent  for  the  table. 

Partridges  (the  quail  of  New-England)  are  taken  with  nets,  in  the  winter,  by 
hundreds  in  a  day,  and  furnish  no  trifling  item  in  the  luxuries  of  the  city  market. 

Bees  are  to  be  found  in  the  trees  of  every  forest.  Many  of  the  frontier  people 
make  it  a  prominent  business,  after  the  frost  has  killed  the  vegetation,  to  hunt 
them  for  the  honey  and  wax,  both  of  which  find  a  ready  market.  Bees  are  profit- 
able stock  for  the  farmer,  and  are  kept  to  a  considerable  extent. 

Poisonous  reptiles  are  not  so  common  as  in  unsettled  regions  of  the  same  lati- 
tude, where  the  country  is  generally  timbered.  Burning  the  prairies  undoubtedly 
destroys  multitudes  of  them. 


;STIC  AN 


DOMESTIC  ANIMALS. 

The  domestic  animals  are  the  same  as  elsewhere  in  the  United  States.  The 
wild  prairies,  everywhere  covered  with  grass,  jnvite  the  raising  of  cattle.  Many 
of  the  farmers  possess  large  droves,  and  tfyey  may  be  multiplied  to  an  almost 
indefinite  extent. 

The  neat  cattle  are  usually  inferior  in  size  to  $ ose  of  the  old  states.  This  is 
owing  entirely  to  bad  management:  the  c»Ws  are  not  penned  up  in  pasture-fields, 
but  suffered  to  run  at  large  over  the  commons.  Hence  all  the  calves  are  pre- 
served, without  respect  to  quality,  to  entice  cows  homeward  at  evening.  They 
are  kept  up  through  the  day,  and  oftentimes  witfeput  much  pasture,  and  turned  to 
the  cows  for  a  few  minutes  at  night,  and  thto  p^irinitted  to  graze  through  the 
night  over  the  short  and  withered  grass  around  the  plantation.  In  autumn  their 
food  is  very  scanty,  and  during  the  winter  they  are  permitted  to  pick  up  a  preca- 
rious subsistence  amongst  fifty  or  a  hundred  head  of  cattle.  With  such  manage- 
ment, is  it  surprising  that  the  steers  and  cows  are  much  inferior  to  those  of  the  old 
states  1 

Common  cows,  if  suffered  to  lose  their  milk  in  August,  become  sufficiently  fat 
for  table  use  by  October.  Farrow  heifers  and  steers  are  good  beef,  and  fit  for  the 
knife  at  any  period  after  the  middle  of  May.  A  cow  in  the  spring  is  worth  from 
twelve  to  twenty  dollars.  Some  of  the  best  quality  will  sell  higher.  Cows,  in 
general,  do  not  produce  the  same  amount  of  milk,  nor  of  as  rich  a  quality  as  in 
older  states.  Something  is  to  be  attributed  to  the  nature  of  the  pastures,  and  the 
warmth  of  the  climate,  but  more  to  causes  already  assigned.  If  ever  a  land  was 
characterized  justly  as  "flowing  with  milk  and  honey,"  it  is  Illinois  and  the  adja- 
cent states.  From  the  springing  of  the  grass  till  September,  butter  is  made  in 
great  profusion.  It  sells  at  that  season  in  market  for  about  twenty  cents,  and  in 
the  interior  of  the  state  for  twelve  cents  per  pound.  With  proper  care,  it  can  be 
preserved  with  tolerable  sweetness  for  winter's  use.  Late  in  autumn  and  early  in 
the  winter,  sometimes  butter  is  not  plenty.  The  feed  becomes  dry,  the  cows 
range  further  off,  and  do  not  come  up  readily  for  milking,  and  dry  up.  A  very 
little  trouble  would  enable  a  farmer  to  keep  three  or  four  good  cows  in  fresh  milk 
at  the  season  most  needed. 

Cheese  is  made  by  many  families,  especially  in  the  counties  bordering  on  the 
Illinois  river.  Good  cheese  sells  for  eight  and  sometimes  ten  cents,  and  finds  a 

F  4*"~ 


42  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


ready  market.  The  most  important  arrangement  for  the  dairy  business  in  Illinois, 
and  especially  for  cheese-making,  is  to  persuade  a  few  thousand  families,  from  the 
dairy  regions  of  New  England,  to  emigrate,  and  continue  their  industrious  habits 
after  settling  here. 

The  beef  of  this  state  is  the  finest  in  the  world.  It  bears  the  best  inspection  of 
any  in  the  New-Orleans  market  By  the  first  of  June,  and  often  by  the  middle  of 
May,  young  cattle  on  the  prairies  are  fit  for  market.  They  do  not  yield  large 
quantities  of  tallow,  but  the  fat  is  well  proportioned  throughout  the  carcase,  and 
the  meat  tender  and  delicious.  Nothing  is  more  common  than  for  an  Illinois 
farmer  to  go  among  his  stock,  select,  shoot  down,  and  dress  a  fine  beef,  whenever 
fresh  meat  is  needed.  This  is  often  divided  out  amongst  the  neighbours,  who,  in 
turn,  kill  and  share  likewise.  It  is  common  at  camp  and  other  large  meetings,  to 
kill  a  beef  and  three  or  four  hogs  for  the  subsistence  of  friends  from  a  distance. 
Limits  can  hardly  be  placed  upon  the  amount  of  beef  cattle  that  Illinois  is  capable 
of  producing.  A  farmer  calls  himself  poor,  with  a  hundred  head  of  horned  cattle 
around  him. 

But  little  has  been  done  to  improve  the  breed  of  horses  in  Illinois:  common  riding 
or  working  horses  average  about  fifteen  hands  in  height.  When  the  same  atten- 
tion is  bestowed  here  upon  raising  the  finest  kind  of  horses  that  is  given  to  the 
subject  by  the  Pennsylvania  farmer,  that  noble  animal  will  be  raised  in  the  great- 
est perfection.  Horses  are  much  more  used  here  than  in  the  eastern  states,  and 
many  a  farmer  keeps  half-a-dozen  or  more.  Much  of  the  travelling  throughout 
the  western  country,  both  by  men  and  women,  is  performed  on  horseback ;  and  a 
large  proportion  of  the  land-carriage  is  by  mepns  of  large  wagons,  with  from  four 
to  six  stout  horses  for  a  team.  .  ) 

Breeding  mares  are  profitable  stock  for  every  farmer  to  keep,  as  their  annual 
expense  in  keeping  is  but  trifling,  their  labour  is  always  needed,  and  their  colts, 
when  grown,  find  a  ready  market.  Some  farmers  keep  a  stallion,  and  eight  or  ten 
brood  mares.  Horses  are  more  subject  to  diseases  in  this  country  than  in  the  old 
states,  which  is  thought  to  be  occasioned  by  bad  management,  rather  than  by  the 
climate.  A  good  farm-horse  can  be  purchased  for  fifty  dollars.  A  great  proportion 
of  the  ploughing  in  Illinois  is  performed  by  horse  labour. 

Mules  are  raised  in  Missouri,  and  aije  also  brought  from  the  Mexican  dominions 
into  Illinois.  They  are  hardy  animals,  grow  to  a  good  size,  and  are  used  by  some 
both  for  labour  and  riding. 

Sheep  generally  thrive  well  in  this  country,  especially  in  the  older  settlements, 
where  the  grass  has  become  short,  and  they  are  less  molested  by  wolves.  But  few 
are  kept.  The  people  from  the  south  are  more  accustomed  to  cotton  for  clothing, 
than  to  wool,  which  sells  for  fifty  cents  per  pound.  Little  is  said  or  done  to 
improve  the  breed  of  sheep,  or  introduce  the  Merino  or  Saxony  breed. 

Swine  may  be  called  a  staple  in  the  provision  of  Illinois.  Thousands  of  hogs 
are  raised  without  any  expense,  except  a  few  breeders  to  start  with,  and  a  little 
attention  to  hunting  them  on  the  range,  and  keeping  them  tame.  This  kind  of 
pork  is  by  no  means  equal  to  that  raised  and  fatted  on  corn,  and  in  a  domestic  way. 
It  is  soft,  oily,  and  will  not  bear  inspection  at  New-Orleans.  It  usually  sells  for 
three  dollars  per  hundred.  Pork  that  is  made  in  a  domestic  way,  and  fatted  on 
corn,  will  sell  for  from  four  to  five  dollars,  according  to  size,  quality,  and  the  time 
when  it  is  delivered.  With  a  pasture  of  clover  or  blue  grass,  a  well-filled  corn- 
crib,  a  dairy,  and  slop-barrel,  and  the  usual  care  that  a  New-Englander  bestows  on  his 
pigs,  pork  may  be  raised  from  the  sow,  fatted,  and  killed,  and  weigh  from  two  hun- 
dred to  two  hundred  and  fifty,  within  twelve  months,  and  this  method  of  raising 
pork  would  be  profitable. 

Few  families  in  the  west  and  south  put  up  their  pork  in  salt,  pickle.  Their 
method  is  to  salt  it  sufficiently  to  prepare  it  for  smoking,  and  then  make  bacon  of 
hams,  shoulders,  and  middlings  or  broadsides.  The  price  of  bacon,  taking  the  hog 
round,  is  about  ten  or  twelve  cents.  Good  hams  command  twelve  cents  in  the 
m*rllet  Stock  h0?8'  weighing  from  sixty  to  one  hundred  pounds,  alive,  usually 
•  from  two  dollars  to  two  dollars  and  fifty  cents  per  head.  Families  consume 
much  more  meat  in  Illinois,  in  proportion  to  numbers,  than  in  the  old  states. 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  43 


Poultry  are  raised  in  great  profusion,  and  large  numbers  of  fowls  taken  to  mar- 
ket. It  is  no  uncommon  thing  for  some  farmers'  wives  to  raise  three  or  four  hun- 
dred fowls,  besides  geese,  ducks,  and  turkeys,  in  a  season.  Young  fowls,  butter, 
and  eggs,  are  the  three  articles  usually  mustered  from  every  farm  for  the  market. 
Eggs,  when  plenty,  as  at  the  close  of  winter  and  spring,  usually  sell  for  ten  and 
twelve  cents  per  dozen. 

PRODUCTIONS  OF  THE  SOIL. 

This  state,  having  a  vast  extent  of  the  most  fertile  land,  must  of  course  raise 
with  great  ease  all  the  articles  to  which  her  soil  and  climate  are  favourable,  to  an 
amount  far  beyond  her  consumption.  All  the  grains,  fruits,  and  roots  of  the  tem- 
perate regions  of  the  earth  grow  luxuriantly :  the  wheat  is  of  excellent  quality, 
and  there  is  no  part  of  the  Western  Country  where  corn  is  raised  with  greater 
ease  and  abundance.  Garden  vegetables  of  all  kinds  succeed  well.  No  country 
can  exceed  this,  in  its  adaptedness  for  rearing  the  finest  fruits  and  fruit-bearing 
shrubs.  Wild  fruits  and  berries  are  in  many  places  abundant,  and  on  some  of  the 
prairies  the  strawberries  are  remarkably  fine. 

In  most  parts  of  the  state,  grape-vines,  indigenous  to  the  country,  are  abundant, 
yielding  grapes  that  might  advantageously  be  made  into  excellent  wine.  Foreign 
vines  are  susceptible  of  easy  cultivation.  These  are  cultivated  to  a  considerable 
extent  at  Vevay,  Switzerland  county,  Indiana,  and  at  New  Harmony  on  the  Wa- 
bash.  The  indigenous  vines  are  prolific,  and  produce  excellent  fruit  They  are 
found  in  every  variety  of  soil,  interwoven  in  every  thicket  in  the  prairies  and  bar- 
rens, and  climbing  to  the  tops  of  the  very  highest  trees  on  the  bottoms.  The 
French  in  early  times  made  so  much  wine  as  to  export  some  to  France;  upon 
which  the  proper  authorities  prohibited,  about  the  year  1774,  the  introduction  of 
wine  from  Illinois,  lest  it  might  injure  the  sale  of  that  staple  article  of  the  king- 
dom. 

Plums,  in  the  prairies  of  various  sizes,  and  flavour  somewhat  tart,  grow  in  great 
abundance;  their  colour  is  generally 'red,  and  their' taste  delicious.  In  some  loca- 
tions, acres  of  these  trees  exhibit  a  surface  of  the  colour  of  rubies :  the  quantities 
of  fruit  are  prodigious ;  by  some,  two  bushels  a  tree  are  yielded. 

Crab-apples  are  also  very  prolific,  and  make  fine  preserves  with  about  double 
their  bulk  of  sugar.  Wild  cherries  are  equally  productive.  The  persimmon  is 
a  delicious  fruit,  after  the  frost  has  destroyed  its  astringent  properties.  The  black 
mulberry  grows  in  most  parts,  and  is  used  for  the  feeding  of  silk-worms  with  suc- 
cess. They  appear  to  thrive  and  spin  as  well  as  on  the  Italian  mulberry.  The 
gooseberry,  strawberry,  and  blackberry  grow  wild  and  in  great  profusion.  Of  nuts, 
the  hickory,  black  walnut,  and  peccan,  deserve  notice.  The  last  is  an  oblong, 
thin-shelled,  delicious  nut,  that  grows  on  a  large  tree,  a  species  of  the  hickory. 
The  pawpaw  grows  in  the  bottom,  and  rich  timbered  uplands,  and  produces  a 
large,  pulpy,  and  luscious  fruit 

Of  domestic  fruits,  the  apple  and  peach  are  chiefly  cultivated.  Pears  are  tole- 
rably plentiful  in  the  French  settlements,  and  quinces  are  cultivated  with  success 
by  some  Americans.  Apples  are  easily  cultivated,  and  are  very  productive.  They 
can  be  made  to  bear  fruit  to  considerable  advantage,  in  seven  years,  from  the  seed. 
Many  varieties  are  of  fine  flavour,  and  grow  to  a  large  size.  Apples,  the  growth 
of  St.  Clair  county,  have  been  measured  that  exceeded  thirteen  inches  in  circum- 
ference. Some  of  the  early  American  settlers  provided  orchards ;  and  they  are 
now  reaping  the  advantages.  But  a  large  proportion  of  the  population  of  the 
frontiers  are  content  without  this  indispensable  article  in  the  comforts  of  a  Yankee 
farmer.  Cider  is  made  in  small  quantities  in  the  old  settlements.  In  a  few  years, 
a  supply  of  this  beverage  can  be  had  in  most  parts  of  Illinois.  Peach-trees  grow 
with  great  rapidity,  and  decay  proportionably  soon.  From  ten  to  fifteen  years  may 
be  considered  as  the  duration  of  this  tree.  The  peaches  are  delicious,  but  they 
sometimes  fail  by  being  destroyed  in  the  germ  by  winter  frosts.  The  bud  swells 
prematurely. 

The  cultivated  vegetable  productions  in  the  field  are  Indian  corn,  wheat,  oats, 
barley,  buckwheat,  Irish  potatoes,  sweet  potatoes,  turnips,  rye  for  hovse-feed  and 


44  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


distilleries,  tobacco,  cotton,  hemp,  flax,  the  castor-bean,  and  every  other  production 
common  to  the  middle  states.  Indian  corn  is  a  staple  production.  No  farmer  can 
live  without  it,  and  hundreds  raise  little  else.  This  is  chiefly  owing  to  the  ease 
with  which  it  is  cultivated.  Its  average  yield  is  fifty  bushels  to  the  acre.  Often- 
times the  product  amounts  to  seventy-five  bushels  to  the  acre,  and  in  some  in- 
stances has  exceeded  one  hundred.  Corn  is  planted  about  the  first  of  May.  The 
white  and  yellow  flint  are  the  best  adapted  to  the  climate.  When  ready  to  gather 
in,  the  ears  are  commonly  plucked  off  by  the  hand,  hauled  to  the  vicinity  of  the 
crib,  and  the  people  in  the  settlement  invited  to  the  corn-shucking.  Ordinarily 
these  gatherings  end  in  sobriety  and  good  feelings,  but  occasionally  (if  whiskey  is 
plenty)  they  prove  scenes  of  unbridled  merriment.  In  slave-holding  states,  these 
annual  corn-shuckings  are  the  seasons  of  fun  and  frolic  to  the  negro.  A  fat  ox  or 
cow,  and  two  or  three  shoats,  are  killed,  pones  of  corn  bread  smoking  hot  are 
brought  forward,  the  bottle  of  whiskey  circulates,  and  the  woods  and  hills  are 
made  to  ring  with  negro  songs  and  shouts  of  merriment.  It  is  the  real  harvest- 
home  of  the  slaves. 

Wheat  yields  a  good  and  sure  crop,  especially  in  the  counties  bordering  on  the 
Illinois  river,  and  through  the  northern  parts  of  the  state.  It  weighs  upwards  of 
60  pounds  per  bushel ;  and  flour  from  this  region  has  preference  in  the  New-Or- 
leans market,  and  passes  better  inspection  than  the  same  article  from  Ohio  or  Ken- 
tucky. In  1825,  the  weavel,  for  the  first  time,  made  its  appearance  in  St.  Clair 
and  the  adjacent  counties,  and  has  occasionally  renewed  its  visits  since.  Within 
the  last  two  seasons,  some  fields  have  been  injured  by  the  fly. 

Wheat  is  sowed  about  the  middle  of  September ;  sprung  wheat,  as  soon  as  the 
ground  can  be  ploughed  in  the  spring.  The  harvest  is  about  the  middle  of  July,  for 
winter  wheat ;  for  spring  wheat,  in  August  Prairie  ground  teAhe  best  for  this 
grain,  the  crop  being  sometimes  35  bushels;  though  about  25  is  the  average  pro- 
duct in  good  seasons.  The  "average  price  of  wheat  is  one  dollar  to  one  dollar  and 
twenty-five  cents  per  bushel,  varying  a  little  according  to  the  competition  of  mills 
and  facilities  to  market.  In.. many  instances  a  single  crop  of  wheat  will  pay  the 
expenses  of  purchasing  the  laad,  fencing,  breaking  the  prairie,  seed,  putting  in  the 
crop,  harvesting,  threshingr  and  taking  it  to  market.  Wheat  is  now  frequently 
sown  on  the  prairie  land  as  aHftrst  crop,  and  a  good  yield  obtained.  Flouring-mills 
are  now  in  operation  in  m£hy  of  the  wheat-growing  counties.  Steam-power  is 
.getting  into  extensive  use  both' for  sawing  and  manufacturing  flour. 

Oats  have  not  been  much  raised  till  lately.  They  are  very  productive,  often 
yielding  from  forty  to  fifty  bushels  on  the  acre,  and  usually  sell  at  from  twenty  to 
thirty  cents  the  but-hel.  The  demand  for  the  use  of  stage  and  travellers'  horses  is 
increasing.  Hemp  is  an  indigenous  plant  in  the  southern  part  of  this  state,  as  it  is 
in  Missouri.  It  has  not  been  extensively  cultivated,  but  wherever  tried,  is  found 
very  productive,  and  of  excellent  quality.  It  might  be  made  a  staple  of  the 
country. 

Tobacco  can  be  produced  in  any  quantity,  and  of  the  first  quality,  in  Illinois ; 
the  soil  and  climate  being  in  every  respect  congenial  to  its  growth. 

Cotton,  for  many  years,  lias  been  successfully  cultivated  in  this  state  for  domes- 
tic use,  and  some  for  exportation.  Two  or  three  spinning  factories  are  in  operation, 
and  produce  cotton  yarn  from  the  growth  of  the  country  with  promising  success. 
This  branch  of  business  admits  of  enlargement,  and  invites  the  attention  of  east- 
ern manufacturers  with  small  capital.  Much  of  the  cloth  made  in  families  who 
•have  emigrated  from  states  south  of  the  Ohio,  is  from  the  cotton  of  the  country. 
Flax  is  produced,  and  of  a  tolerable  quality,  but  not  equal  to  that  of  the  northern 
states.  It  is  said  to  be  productive  and  good  in  the  northern  counties.  There  is  an 
oil-mill  to  manufacture  oil  from  the  seed,  in  Sangamon  county.  The  palma  christi, 
or  castor-oil  bean,  is  produced  in  considerable  quantities  in  Madison,  Randolph,  and 
other  counties,  and  large  quantities  of  oil  are  expressed  and  sent  abroad.  Sweet 
potatoes  are  a  delicious  root,  and  yield  abundantly,  especially  on  the  American 
Bottom,  and  rich  sandy  prairies. 

The  cultivation  of  the  sugar  beet  root,  and  the  manufacture  of  the  sugar,  can 
without  doubt  be  carried  on  to  advantage  in  this  state.  Gentlemen  who  have  had 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  45 


an  opportunity  of  examining  personally  the  land  in  France  on  which  that  root  is 
grown,  consider  the  prairie  land  of  Illinois  much  superior  for  that  purpose.  In  the 
tbrmer  country,  from  eight  to  twelve  dollars  rent  per  acre  is  annually  paid,  and  yet 
large  profits  are  made.  An  acre  of  good  land  will  produce  44,000  pounds  of  beet 
root,  from  which  2400  pounds  of  sugar  can  be  extracted,  which,  at  10  cents  a  pound, 
amounts  to  240  dollars  per  acre.  The  annexed  extracts  on  the  cultivation  of  the 
sugar  beet  root,  are  from  a  letter  written  by  D.  L.  Childs,  Esq.,  who  went  to  Europe 
under  the  auspices  of  a  company  incorporated  by  the  legislature  of  Illinois,  with  a 
capital  of  200,000  dollars,  for  the  purpose  of  introducing  the  manufacture  of  beet 
sugar  into  this  state.  The  letter  is  dated  from  Arras,  in  France,  Jan.  9th,  1837. 

"  The  most  interesting  aspect  of  the  beet  sugar  business,  is  its  bearing  upon 
agriculture  and  rural  economy : 

"  1.  It  enriches  the  land  both  as  an  excellent  substitute  for  fallowing,  and  as  pro- 
ducing an  immense  quantity  of  capital  manure. 

"2.  It  has  the  latter  effect  in  various  ways,  but  principally  by  feeding  a  large 
number  of  cattle  and  sheep.  The  former  are  fatted  in  from  three  to  three  and  a 
half  months  in  a  manner  really  superb.  So  fine  specimens  of  beef-creatures  are 
seldom  seen  in  the  United  States,  after  six  months  of  the  best  pasturing  and  stall- 
feeding.  The  sheep  are  fatted  in  six  weeks.  At  the  manufactory  where  I  have 
been,  they  pay  on  an  average  about  six  louis  for  cattle,  and  sell  them  for  about  ele- 
ven. A  louis  is  about  $4.37.  I  suppose  that  this  branch  of  the  business  would  be 
quite  as  tycrative  in  the  United  States,  where  stock  animals  may  be  bought  some- 
what cheaper.  This  you  see  is  doubling  capital  three  times  a  year,  with  the  help 
however  of  the  pulp  or  pumice  of  the  beet.  This  can  be  kept  good  any  desirable 
length  of  time;  It  is  sold  here  at  10  cents  the  cwt. 

"3.  The  prom  of  raising  the  beets  is  very  great,  according  to  estimates  which  I 
have  from  intelligent  sources.  My  data  makes  the  net  gain  in  France,  after  pay- 
ing rent,  ploughing,  weeding,  hoeing,  digging,  and  preserving,  404  francs  per  hec- 
tare. This  measure  is  a  trifle  over  two  English  "acres..  Consequently  the  profit 
of  cultivating  beets  on  an  acre,  will  be  202  francs,  about  '$38.  Can  you  wonder 
that  land  has  risen  from  50  to  150  per  cent,  in  the  districts  of  the  sugar  manufacto- 
ries 1  The  wages  of  labour  for  cultivating  and  manufacturing  the  produce  of  a 
hectare,  amount  to  $56.81.  This  would  give  for  jOO'acres  $2840  nearly ;  and  for 
400,  which  would  be  the  quantity  required  for  the 'largest  establishments,  $11,830, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  proprietor  or  leaseholder,  wftpn  he  and  the  labourer  are  one 
and  the  same.  In  this  case,  besides  getting  pay  for  his  labour,  and  the  rent  or  in- 
terest of  his  land,  he  would  receive  the  $38  profit  per  acre. 

"  The  most  material  point  in  the  culture  of  the  beet  root,  is  the  manner  of  pre- 
paring the  land.  It  must  be  ploughed  eight  inches  deep  at  least,  and  this  ought  to 
be  done  in  the  month  of  August.  Still,  fine  crops  of  beets  have  been  obtained  by 
breaking  up  grass-ground  in  the  spring,  immediately  before  the  seeding.  The  land 
should  be  turned  up'handsofcely,  and  all  the  grass  and  other  vegetable  matter  fairly 
deposited  underneath.  Then  it  must  be  harrowed  deep  and  fine,  but  the  same  way 
with  the  furrows.  If  the  furrows  be  disturbed,  it  spoils  or  greatly  injures  the  crop. 
The  seed  is  to  be  sown  in  rows,  20  inches  apart,  on  the  top  of  the  furrows,  and  the 
same  way  with  them.  No  plough  must  enter  after  the  sowing,  but  the  land  must 
be  dressed  from  two  to  four  times,  according  to  its  tendency  to  weediness,  with  the 
hand  and  hoe.  The  vegetable  matters  decay,  and  give  their  whole  nourishment 
to  the  beets.  I  suppose  these  remarks  may  be  of  less  consequence  to  the  proprie- 
tors of  rich  prairies  of  the  west,  than  to  those  of  the  lands  in  France,  and  in  the 
northern  and  middle  states  of  America.  There  can  be  no  doubt,  however,  that 
the  decomposition  of  fresh  vegetable  matter  will  afford  a  more  active  stimulus  to 
vegetable  life  than  old  mould,  however  rich.  The  land  for  beets  must  be  food, — 
but  it  may  be  too  good.  In  this  case,  it  will  produce  beets  of  an  enormous  size,  but 
hollow  and  decayed,  and  affording  less  saccharine  matter  than  smaller  ones.  Very 
poor  land  made  rich  by  high  manuring,  is  said  to  yield  large  beets,  containing  a 
great  deal  of  potash  and  sal  ammoniac,  but  very  little  sugar.  At  the  first  weeding, 
when  the  beets  are  about  1  or  1|  inches  high,  they  must  be  thinned  so  as  to 
leave  one  plant  to  every  12  or  13  inches  of  row.  If  there  be  spaces  where  the 


46  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


seed  has  not  come  up,  some  of  the  plants  pulled  up  should  be  transplanted  into 
those  spaces." 

But  little  has  been  done  to  introduce  cultivated  grasses.  The  prairie  grass 
looks  coarse  and  unsavoury,  and  yet  horses  and  cattle  thrive  well  on  it.  It  is  well 
known  that  this  grass  disappears  when  the  settlements  extend  round  a  prairie,  and 
the  cattle  eat  oft'  the  young  growth  in  the  spring.  Consequently,  in  a  few  years, 
the  natural  grass  no  longer  exists.  To  produce  timothy  with  success,  the  ground 
must  be  well  cultivated  in  the  summer,  either  by  an  early  crop,  or  by  fallowing, 
and  the  seed  sown  about  the  20th  of  September,  at  the  rate  often  or  twelve  quarts 
of  clean  seed  to  the  acre,  and  lightly  brushed  in.  If  the  season  is  in  any  way  fa- 
vourable, it  will  get  a  rapid  start  before  winter.  By  the  last  week  in  June,  it  will 
produce  two  tons  per  acre,  of  the  finest  hay.  It  then  requires  a  dressing  of  stable 
or  yard  manure,  and  occasionally  the  turf  may  be  scratched  with  a  harrow,  to  pre- 
vent the  roots  from  binding  too  hard.  By  this  process  timothy  meadows  may  be 
made  and  preserved.  There  are  meadows  in  St.  Glair  county  which  have  yielded 
heavy  crops  of  hay  in  succession,  for  several  years,  and  bid  fair  to  continue  for  an 
indefinite  period.  Cattle,  and  especially  horses,  should  never  be  permitted  to  run 
in  meadows  in  Illinois.  Tne  fall  grass  may  be  cropped  down  by  calves  and  colts. 
There  is  but  a  little  more  labour  required  to  produce  a  crop  of  timothy  than  a  crop 
of  oats :  and  as  there  is  not  a  stone  or  a  pebble  to  interrupt,  the  soil  may  be  turned 
up  every  third  or  tburth  year  for  corn,  and  afterwards  laid  down  to  grass  again. 
A  species  of  blue  grass  is  cultivated  by  some  farmers  for  pastures.  Iftpwell  set, 
and  not  eaten  down  in  summer,  blue  grass  pastures  may  be  kept  green  and  fresh 
till  late  in  autumn,  or  even  in  the  winter.  The  English  spire  grass  has  been  cul- 
tivated with  success  in  the  Wabash  country, 

Of  the  trefoil,  or  clover,  there  is  but  little  cultivated.  A  prejudice  exists  against 
it,  as  it  is  imagined  to  injure  horses  by  affecting  the  glands  of  the  mouth,  and 
causing  them  to  slaver.  It  grows  luxuriantly,  and  may  be  cut  for  hay  early  in 
June.  The  white  clover  comes  in  naturally,  where  the  ground  has  been  cultivated, 
and  thrown  by,  or  along  the  sides  of  old  roads  and  paths.  Clover  pastures  would 
be  excellent  for  swine. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  of  Illinois  is  such  as  would  be  naturally  expected  from  the  latitude. 
The  thermometer  does  not  range  more  widely  here  than  in  similar  parallels  east 
of  the  Allegheny  mountains;  nor  perhaps  as  much  so  as  in  those  districts  beyond 
the  influence  of  the  sea-breeze.  There  is  every  day  a  breeze,  from  some  quarter 
of  the  broad  prairies,  almost  as  refreshing  as  that  from  the  ocean.  The  region  is 
exempt,  too,  from  the  effects  of  the  easterly  winds,  so  chilling  and  so  annoying 
along  the  Atlantic  sea-board ;  but  in  lieu  of  them,  there  are  fluently  cold  blasts 
from  the  prairies,  sufficiently  annoying  to  the  travellbr,  whdb  the  mercury  is  at 
zero. 

The  winter  commences  with  December,  and  ends  the  second  week  of  February. 
Its  duration  and  temperature  are  variable ;  sometimes  warm,  and  at  others  cold. 
The  winters  generally  exhibit  a  temperature  of  climate  somewhat  milder  than 
that  of  the  northern  Atlantic  states.  Snow  rarely  falls  to  the  depth  of  six  inches, 
and  as  rarely  remains  more  than  ten  or  twelve  days.  There  are,  however,  occa- 
sional short  periods  of  very  cold  weather ;  but  they  seldom  continue  longer  than 
three  or  four  days  at  a  time.  The  Mississippi  is  sometimes  frozen  over  and  passed 
on  the  ice  at  St.  Louis,  and  occasionally  for  several  weeks  together.  The  year 
1811  was  remarkable  for  the  river  closing  over  twice, — a  circumstance  which  had 
not  occurred  before  within  the  memory  of  the  oldest  inhabitant  What  may  be 
considered  winter  weather  does  not  usually  continue  longer  than  from  ten  to 
twelve  weeks;  during  more  than  half  of  which  period,  the  ground  frequently 
remains  unfrozen. 

Near  the  Mississippi,  the  wind  often  blows  alternately  from  the  north  and  south, 
producing  a  succession  of  snow,  neither  deep  nor  of  long  continuance,  frost,  sleet, 
and  a  relaxing  mildness;  when  the  beautiful  red  bird,  the  cardinal  grosbeak,  shows 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  47 


himself,  and  in  singing,  his  charming  lays  resemble  the  lofty  notes  of  the  fife,  being 
nearly  as  loud  and  as  sonorous.  From  actual  observation,  Fahrenheit's  thermome- 
ter, both  at  St.  Louis  and  Harmony  on  the  Wabash  river  opposite  the  southern  part 
of  the  state,  the  mercury  has  sometimes  fallen  below  zero. 

It  may  be  noticed,  that  in  making  observations  with  the  thermometer,  they  are 
made  too  often  almost  exclusively  whilst  the  sun  is  above  the  horizon,  and  therefore 
do  not  give  the  mean  of  all  the  astronomical  day,  but  that  of  daylight  only ;  and 
consequently  the  far  greater  number  of  places  are  represented  as  having  a  mean 
temperature  too  high.  It  is  doubtful  whether  any  part  of  Illinois  has  in  reality  a 
mean  temperature  of  more  than  54°  of  Fahrenheit,  and  that  the  mean  of  the  whole 
state  is  not  ojer  51°.  From  a  series  of  observations  made  at  St  Louis  during  the 
years  1817-18r-19,  the  mean  temperature  of  the  different  seasons  was  as  follows : 
winter  34.53.spring  54.17,  summer  74.34,  autumn  60.77:  mean  for  the  whole 
year,  56.09.  %*his  will  form  a  criterion  for  the  southern  half  of  Illinois.  July  is 
invariably  the  hottest  month,  and  in  a  few  instances  the  thermometer  has  been 
known  to  rise  for  a  short  time  to  100°,  and  sometimes  in  June  and  August  to  96°; 

The  rains  which  succeed  the  breaking  up  of  the  Mississippi  generally  continue 
at  intervals  through  the  greater  part  of  February  and  March,  and  constitute  what 
is  called  the  rainy  months.  The  first  spring  months  are  therefore  frequently  disa- 
greeable and  cheerless ;  and  the  emigrant  who  arrives  in  Illinois  during  this  time 
forms  ajnost  unfavourable  opinion  of  its  climate  ;  but  as  soon  as  the  rains  subside, 
he  is  deSifchted  with  the  contrast.  The  forests  now  put  forth  their  foliage,  the 
prairies  are  covered  with  their  brilliant  carpets,  and  all  nature  around  him  appears 
to  smile :  he  is  fanned  by  a  gentler  and  more  fragrant  breeze,  and  is  covered  by  a 
bluer  and  more  beautiful  sky  than  those  to  which  he  has  been  accustomed. 

The  summers  are  warm,  though  during  the  sultry  months  the  intensity  of  heat 
is  modified  by  a  free  course  everywhere  afforded  to  a  fine  genial  breeze,  constantly 
giving  to  the  atmosphere  a  refreshing  elasticity.  During  this  season,  the  appear- 
ance of  the  country  is  gay  and  beautiful,  being  clothed  with  grass,  foliage,  and 
flowers. 

Of  all  the  seasons  of  the  year,  the  autumn  is  tha  most  delightful.  The  heat  of 
the  summer  is  over  by  the  middle  of  August ;  and  from  that  time  till  December, 
there  is  almost  one  continuous  succession  of  bright,  clear,  delightful  sunny  days. 
Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  summer  and  autumn  in  this  country,  where,  on 
one  hand,  we  have  the  expansive  prairie  strewed  with  flowers  still  growing ;  and 
on  the  other,  the  forests  which  skirt  it,  presenting  all  the  varieties  of  colour  inci- 
dent to  the  fading  foliage  of  a  thousand  different  trees. 

About  the  middle  of  October  or  beginning  of  November,  the  Indian  summer 
commences,  and  continues  from  fifteen  to  twenty  days.  During  this  time,  the 
weather  is  dull  and  cheerless,  the  atmosphere  is  smoky,  and  the  sun  and  moon  are 
sometimes  almost  totally  obscured.  It  is  generally  supposed  that  this  is  caused  by 
the  burning  of  the  Withered  grass  and  herbs  on  the  extensive  prairies  of  the  north 
and  west,  which  also  accounts  for  its  increased  duration  as  we  proceed  westward. 

Winds. — During  the  spring,  summer,  and  autumn,  south-westerly  winds  are  the 
i  most  prevalent ;  these  are  sometimes  warm  and  arid,  at  others  cool  and  humid. 
They  seldom,  however,  cause  heavy  rains.  In  the  spring  and  during  the  rise  of 
the  Missouri,  they  are  frpm  a  more  westerly  direction,  and  rains  are  often  more 
frequent.  West  and  north-west  winds  prevail  during  the  months  of  December  and 
January.  Although  these  are  generally  dry  and  piercing,  they  frequently  accom- 
pany storms  of  hail  and  snow.  North  and  north-east  winds  are  comparatively  rare. 
The  latter  usualfy  bring  heavy  rains. 

DISEASES. 

The  more  common  diseases  of  Illinois  are  intermittents,  frequently  accompanied 
with  bilious  symptoms.  Those  which  prove  fatal  in  sickly  seasons  are  bilious  re- 
mittents. More  than  one-half  of  the  sickness  endured  by  the  people  is  caused  by 
imprudence,  bad  management,  and  the  want  of  proper  nursing.  Emigrants  from 
the  northern  states  or  from  Europe  will  find  it  advantageous  to  protect  themselves 


48 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


from  the  cool  and  humid  atmosphere  at  night,  to  provide  close  dwellings,  yet, 
when  the  atmosphere  is  clear,  to  have  their  rooms,  and  especially  their  sleeping 
rooms,  well  ventilated,  and  invariably  wear  thin  clothing  in  the  day,  and  put  on 
thicker  apparel  at  night  or  when  exposed  to  wet. 

Families  are  seldom  sick  who  live  in  comfortable  houses  with  tight  floors  and 
well-ventilated  rooms,  and  who  upon  a  change  of  weather,  and  especially  in  a  time 
of  rain,  make  a  little  fire  in  the  chimney,  though  it  may  be  in  the  midst  of  summer. 
There  are  but  few  cases  of  genuine  consumption.  Affection  of  the  liver  is 
more  common.  Pleurisies,  and  other  inflammatory  diseases,  prevail  in  the  winter 
and  spring.  Ophthalmia  prevails  at  some  seasons.  Dysentery  is  not  uncommon. 
Fewer  die  in  infancy  than  in  the  old  states.  * ,. 

In  several  parts  of  the  west,  and  occasionally  in  Illinois,  a  dj.Jy^e  prevails, 
which  has  received  the  appellation  of  "  sick  stomach,"  fiom  its  JJrThninent  symp- 
toms, nausea  and  frequent  vomiting,  especially  on  taking  exercise.  ^1  is  also  called 
"milk  sickness,"  from  an  opinion  that  it  is  produced  by  the- milk  of  cows,  which 
have  fed  on  some  poisonous  plant  It  has  likewise  been  ascribed  to  the  water  of 
certain  springs,  and  to  marshy  exhalations.  The  cause,  however,  seems  not  to  be 
exactly  known,  and  the  disease  appears  to  be  vanishing. 

That  the  Western  States  are  not  unfavourable  to  human  life,  may  be  inferred 
from  the  unprecedented  increase  in  their. population.  The  number  of  inhabitants 
in  Ohio,  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  Michigan,  Indiana,  Illinois,  and  Missouri,  is  proba- 
bly near  four  millions.  Had  they  been  unhealthy,  it  is  quite  incredible^tilrt  in  the 
short  period  of  half  a  century,  so  gteat  a  number  could  have  congregated  within 
those  commonwealths.  Were  the  climate  especially  fatal  to  emigrants,  the  num- 
ber cut  off,  and  the  number  repelled,  must  have  given  a  ratio  of  increase  far  be- 
neath that  which  has  actually  existed.  As  to  a  seasoning  or  acclimation,  it  is 
doubtful  whether  in  the  temperate  Mississippi  states,  it  has  any  existence.  At  Cin- 
cinnati, it  can  seldom  be  perceived.  When  formidable  and  fatal  diseases  have  pre- 
vailed, they  have  as  often  attacked  those  long  resident  in  the  city,  as  the  '  new 
comers ;'  and  nothing  is  more  common,  than  to  see  persons  arrive  at  all  periods 
of  the  spring,  snmmer,  and  early  autumn,  and  still  enjoy  as  good  health  as  if  they 
had  entered  its  atmosphere  at  the  winter  solstice. 

Travellers  and  *  movers'  should  be  cautious  against  much  journeying  in  Septem- 
ber and  early  October,  •  when  bilious  fevers  prevail;  for,  however  secure  they 
might  be,  if  they  could  be  transferred,  without  a  journey,  to  a  western  town,  the 
usual  process  of  reaching  it  in  autumn,  over  land,  the  necessary  mode  when  the 
waters  are  low,  is  apt  to  generate  serious  diseases. 

CIVIL  DIVISIONS. 

There  are  seventy  counties  within  the  state,  in  sixty  of  which  courts  are  held. 
In  the  others,  the  judge  of  the  circuit  where  they  lie  is  authorized  to  organize 
them,  by  appointing  an  election  for  county  officers  whenever  in  his  opinion  there 
are  three  hundred  and  fifty  inhabitants  within  their  boundaries.  Their  names, 
dates  of  formation,  number  of  square  miles,  population  according  to  the  state  census 
of  1835  (with  the  estimation  of  certain  counties  since  formed,  marked  thus  *), 
and  seats  of  justice,  are  given  in  the  following  table. 


Counties. 

Date. 

Square 
Miles. 

Population 
in  1835. 

Seats  of  Justice. 

Adams,    .... 

Alexander,  -    -    - 
Bond,      -    -    -    - 
Boone,*  -    -    -    - 
Calhoun,      ... 
Cass,*      .... 
Champaign,*     -    - 

1825 
1819 
1817 
1837 
1825 
1837 
1833 

800 
378 
360 
504 
264 
260 
1008 

7,042 
2,050 
3,580 
600 
1,091 
6,500 
1,250 

Quincy. 
Unity. 
Greenville. 
Not  established. 
Guilford. 
Beardstown. 
Urbanna. 

THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.                ,    .                    49 

TABLE  —  continued. 

Counties. 

Date. 

Square 
Miles. 

Population 
in  1835. 

Seats  of  Justice. 

Clark,     -    -    -    - 

1819 

500 

3,413 

Darwin. 

Plav    . 

1824 

6^0 

1,648 

Maysville. 

Clinton,  -    -    -    - 

1824 

504 

2,648 

Carlyle. 

Coles,      .... 

1830 

1233 

5,125 

Charleston. 

Cook,      .... 

1831 

1220 

7,500 

Chicago. 

Crawford,    -    -    - 

1816 

400 

3,540 

Palestine. 

Edgar,     -    -    -    /* 

1823 

660 

6,668 

Paris. 

Edwards,     -    -    - 

1814 

355 

2,006 

Albion. 

Effingham,   -    -    - 

1831 

486 

1,055 

Ewington. 

Fayette,  -    -    -    - 

1821 

684 

3,638 

Vandalia. 

Franklin,     -     -     - 

1818 

864 

5,551 

Frankfort. 

Fulton,    --.- 

1825 

864 

5,917 

Lewistown. 

Gal  latin,    «-    -    - 

1812 

750 

8,660 

Equality. 

Greene,  -    -    -    - 

1821 

!WO 

12,274 

Carrollton. 

Hamilton,     -    -    - 
Hanfeeck,     -    -    - 

1821 
1825 

432  , 

800  • 

'     2,877 
3,249 

M'Leansborough. 
Carthage. 

Henry,*  -    -    -    - 

1825 

840  ' 

600 

Not  established. 

Iroquois,*     ... 

1833 

1423 

1,800 

Not  established. 

Jackson,  .... 

1816 

565 

2,783 

Brownsville. 

Jasper,*  -    ... 

1831 

506 

375 

Newton. 

Jefferson,     -    -    - 

1819 

576 

3,350 

Mount  Vernon. 

Jo  Daviess,*     -    - 

1827 

950 

4,350 

Galena. 

Johnson,  -    -    -    - 

1812 

486 

2,166 

Vienna. 

Kane,*    -    -    -    - 

1836 

1297 

1,500 

Geneva. 

Knox,      -    -    -    - 

1825 

792 

1,600 

Knoxville. 

La  Salle,     -    -    - 

1831 

1872 

4,754 

Ottawa. 

Lawrence,  -    -    - 

1821 

560 

4,450 

Lavvrenceville. 

Livingston,*      -    - 

1837 

1152 

.    750 

Not  established. 

Macon,    -    -    -    - 

1829 

1404 

3,022 

Decatur. 

IMacoupin,    -    -    - 

1829 

864 

5,554 

Carlinville. 

Madison,      ... 

1812 

750 

9,016 

Edwardsville. 

Marion,   .... 

1823 

576 

2,844 

Salem. 

M'Donough,      -    - 

1825 

576 

2,883 

Macomb. 

M'Henry,*  -    -    - 

1836 

1100 

1,200 

Not  established. 

M'Lean,  .... 

1830 

1296 

5,311 

Bloomington. 

Mercer,*      -    -    - 

1825 

550 

800 

New  Boston. 

Monroe,  -    -    -    - 

1816 

360 

2,660 

Waterloo. 

Montgomery,    -    - 

1821 

954 

3,740 

Hillsborough. 

Morgan,  -    -    -    - 

1823 

800 

16,500 

Jacksonville. 

Ofrlp   - 

1836 

1440 

2,000 

Oregon  City. 

vjgie,  - 

Peoria,*  -    -    -    - 

1825 

612 

7,000 

Peoria. 

Perry,     .... 

1827 

432 

2,201 

Pinckneyville. 

Pike  ..... 

1  -•'! 

780 

«  (  107 

I'itt^fii  .]J 

Pope,      .... 

XO>C.l. 

1816 

•  Ovl 

576 

O,UO  / 

3,756 

1    IUMH   HI. 

Golconda. 

Putnam,  .... 

1825 

1548 

4,021 

Hennepin. 

Randolph,    ... 

1795 

520 

5,695 

Kaskaskia. 

Rock  Island,*   -    - 

1831 

432 

1,500 

Stephenson. 

Sangamon,  ... 

1821 

2160 

17,573 

Springfield. 

Schuyler,     ... 

1825 

864 

6,361 

Rushville. 

Shelby,    .... 

1827 

1080 

4,848 

Shelbyville. 

St  Clair,      -     -     - 

1795 

684 

9,055 

Belleville. 

Stephenson,       -    - 

1837 

567 

400 

Not  established. 

Tazewell,     -    -    - 

1827 

1220 

5,850 

Tremont. 

50 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


TABLE — continued. 


Counties. 

Date. 

Square 
Miles 

Population 
in  1835. 

Seats  of  Justice. 

Union,     -    -    -    - 

1818 

396 

4,156 

Jonesborough. 

Vermillion,  -,.-.- 

1826 

.1008 

8,103 

Danville. 

Wabash,       -    -    - 

1824 

180 

3,010 

Mount  Carmel. 

Warren,  -    -    -    - 

1825 

900 

2,623 

Monmouth. 

Washington,    -    - 

1818 

540 

3,292 

Nashville. 

Wayne,  -    -    -    -  . 

1819 

576 

2,939 

Fairfield. 

White,    ..-- 

1815 

476 

6,489 

Carrni. 

Whiteside,*      -    - 

1836 

712 

1,500 

Not  established. 

Will,*     .... 

1836 

1320 

3,500 

Juliet 

Winnebago,*    -    - 

1836 

504 

1,200 

Not  established. 

The  present  population  of  Illinois  (September  1837)  may  be  estimated  at  400,000. 
For  the  purpose  of  electing  representatives  to  Congress,  the  state  is  divided  into  three 
districts,  each  of  which  sends  one  representative.  For  judiciary  purposes  tlw  state  is 
divided  into  seven  circuits,  in  each  of  which  a  circuit  judge  is  appointtSJT  Coun- 
ties are  not  subdivided  into  townships,  as  in  Indiana,  Ohio,  and  the  more  eastern 
states.  For  the  convenience  of  holding  elections,  the  county  commissioners'  court 
is  required  to  divide  the  county  into  "precincts"  and  designate  the  house  or  place 
in  each  precinct  where  the  polls  shall  be  opened.  Electors  throughout  the  county 
vote  at  which  precinct  they  please. 

*  GOVERNMENT. 

The  constitution  of  Illinois  was  formed  by  a  convention  held  at  Easkaskia,  in 
August,  1818.  It  provides  for  the  distribution  of  the  powers  of  government  into 
three  distinct  departments, — the  legislative,  executive,  and  judiciary.  The  legis- 
lative authority  is  vested  in  a  general  assembly,  consisting  of  a  senate  and  house 
of  representatives.  Elections  are  held  biennially,  as  are  the  ordinary  sessions  of 
the  legislature.  Senators  are  elected  for  four  years.  The  executive  power  is 
vested  in  the  governor,  who  is  elected  every  fourth  year  by  the  electors  for  repre- 
sentatives, but  the  same  person  is  ineligible  for  the  next  succeeding  four  years. 
The  lieutenant-governor  is  also  chosen  every  four  years.  The  judicial  power  is 
vested  in  a  supreme  court,  and  such  inferior  courts  as  the  general  assembly  from 
time  to  time  shall  establish.  The  supreme  court  consists  of  a  chief  justice  and 
three  associate  judges.  The  governor  and  judges  of  the  supreme  court  constitute 
a  council  of  revision,  to  which  all  bills  that  have  passed  the  assembly  must  be  sub- 
mitted. If  objected  to  by  the  council  of  revision,  the  same  may  become  a  law  by 
the  vote  of  the  majority  of  all  the  members  elected  to  both  houses. 

The  right  of  suffrage  is  universal.  All  white  male  inhabitants,  twenty-one 
years  of  age,  who  have  resided  within  the  state  six  months  next  preceding  the 
elections,  enjoy  the  right  of  electors.  Votes  are  given  viva  voce.  The  introduc- 
tion of  slavery  is  prohibited.  The  constitution  can  be  altered  only  by  a  convention. 
The  whole  ordinary  annual  expenditurse  of  the  state  are  about  53,700  dollars. 
The  revenue  of  the  state  is  derived  principally  from  land  taxes.  The  tax  on  lands 
of  residents  goes  into  the  county  treasuries,  for  county  purposes,  while  the  tax  on 
the  lands  of  non-residents  goes  into  the  state  treasury  for  state  purposes.  The 
quantity  of  land  subject  to  taxation  on  the  first  of  August,  1836,  was  5,335,041 
acres.  And  the  quantity  subject  to  taxation 

In  1837  will  be 5,674,452 

In  1838 5,902,127 

In  1839 6,262,367 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  51 


In  1840  ' 6,616,380 

In  1841 7,837,218 

And  in  1842  about 12,000,000 

Lands  sold  by  the  general  government  are  not  subject  to  taxation  under  five 
years  after  purchase. 

PUBLIC  LANDS. 

The  greater  portion  of  the  unoccupied  lands  of  the  United  States  constitute  the 
national  domain,  and  is  of  course  under  the  control  of  the  general  government. 
These  lands  consist  of  tracts  of  country  ceded  to  the  nation  by  the  several  states ; 
of  the  lands  in  the  territory  of  Louisiana  purchased  from  France,  and  of  those  in 
Florida  obtained  by  purchase  from  Spain.  After  thus  acquiring  a  claim  to  wild 
lands,  from  the  individual  states  or  foreign  powers,  the  Indian  title  to  the  soil  is 
next  extinguished,  by  purchasing  it  from  the  native  tribes  by  whom  it  is  respec- 
tively occupied. 

The  lands  are  then  surveyed  on  an  accurate  plan,  and  according  to  a  general 
system ;  afterwards  they  are  offered  for  sale  by  proclamation  of  the  President,  and, 
by  law,  must  be  sold  by  public  auction,  the  minimum  price  being  one  dollar  twen- 
five  cents  an  acre,  ready  money.  One  section  in  each  township  is  reserved  for  the 
support  of  schools  in  the  township,  and  all  salt-springs  and  lead-mines  are  reserved 
from  sa^,  unless  by  special  order  of  the  President.  The  minimum  price  of  the 
public  lands  was  at  first  fixed  at  two  dollars  per  acre,  one-half  to  be  paid  within 
thirty  days,  the  residue  one  year  after  the  sale  ;  in  1800,  the  term  of  credit  was 
very  much  extended,  and  in  1820  the  purchasers  were  in  debt  to  the  government 
more  than  22,000,000  dollars.  At  that  period  the  present  system  of  cash  payments 
was  adopted,  under  which  the  annual  proceeds  of  the  sales  have  increased  from 
1,167,225  dollars  to  6,099,981  in  1834,  to  upwards  of  12,000,000  in  1835,  and  in 
1836  they  had  increased  to  the  astonishing  sum  of  24,000,000  dollars.  The  in- 
crease of  population  in  the  Western  States,  the  extensive  introduction  of  steam- 
vessels  on  the  rivers  and  lakes,  and  the  increased  facilities  of  intercourse  and 
transportation  by  rail-roads  and  canals,  have  concurred  with  the  extraordinary  high 
price  of  cotton,  in  producing  this  wonderful  result. 

The  surveys  of  the  public  lands  of  the  United  States  are  founded  upon  a  series 
of  true  meridians  which  run  north  principally  from  the  mouth  of  some  noted  river. 
These  are  intersected  at  right  angles  with  lines  running  from  east  to  west,  called 
base  lines.  There  are  five  principal  meridians  in  the  land  surveys  of  the  west. 
The  "  first  principal  meridian"  is  a  line  due  north  from  the  mouth  of  the  Miami 
river,  which  also  forms  the  boundary  line  between  the  states  of  Ohio  and  Indiana. 
The  "  second  principal  meridian"  is  a  line  north  from  a  point  on  the  Ohio  river 
ten  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Little  Blue  river,  in  Indiana.  The  "third  princi- 
pal meridian"  is  a  line  due  north  from  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio.  The  ."fourth  prin- 
cipal meridian"  is  a  line  due  north  from  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois.  The  "fifth 
principal  meridian"  is  a  line  due  north  from  the  mouth  of  White  river  in  Ar- 
kansas. 

Each  of  these  meridians  has  its  own  base  line,  which  forms  the  base  of  a  series 
of  surveys  of  which  lines  are  made  to  correspond,  so  that  the  whole  country  is  at 
last  divided  into  squares  of  one  mile  each,  and  townships  of  six  miles  each,  and 
these  subdivisions  are  distributed  with  mathematical  accuracy  into  parallel  ranges. 

The  greatest  divisions  of  land  marked  out  by  the  survey  is  called  a  township, 
and  contains  23,040  acres,  being  six  miles  square.  The  township  is  subdivided 
into  thirty-six  equal  portions  or  square  miles,  by  lines  crossing  each  other  at  right 
angles.  These  portions  are  called  sections,  each  containing  640  acres,  which  are 
subdivided  into  four  parts  called  quarter-sections,  each  of  which,  of  course,  con- 
tains one  hundred  and  sixty  acres.  The  quarter-sections  are  finally  divided  into 
two  parts,  called  half-quarter-sections,  of  eighty  acres  each ;  these  again  are  under 
certain  conditions  sold  in  equal  subdivisions  of  forty  acres  each,  which  is  the 
smallest  amount  of  the  public  lands  disposed  of  by  the  general  government.  Any 
person,  whether  a  native-born  citizen  or  a  foreigner,  may  thus  purchase  forty  acres 
of  the  richest  soil,  and  receive  an  indisputable  title,  for  fifty  dollars.  The  sectional 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


and  quarter-sectional  divisions  are  designated  by  appropriate  marks  in  the  field, 
which  are  of  a  character  to  be  easily  distinguished  from  each  other.  If  near  tim- 
ber, trees  are  marked  and  numbered  with  the  section,  township,  and  range,  near 
each  sectional  corner.  If  in  a  large  prairie,  a  mound  is  raised  to  designate  the 
corner,  nnd  a  billet  of  charred  wood  buried,  if  no  rock  is  near. 

Sections  are  divided  into  halves  by  a  line  drawn  north  and  south,  and  into  quar- 
ters by  a  transverse  line.  The  half-quarter  and  quarter-quarter-sections  are  not 
marked  in  the  field,  but  are  designated  on  the  plot  of  the  survey  by  the  Surveyor- 
General  marking  the  distance  on  one  of  the  ascertained  lines,  in  order  to  get  the 
quantity  of  such  half-quarter-sections  as  exhibited  by  his  plot  of  survey. 

Fractional  sections  are  parts  of  quarter-sections  intersected  by  streams,  confirmed 
claims,  or  Indian  boundaries.  The  parts  of  townships,  sections,  quarters,  &c.  made 
at  the  lines  of  either  townships  or  meridians,  are  called  excesses  or  deficiencies. 
The  fractional  sections  which  contain  less  than  160  acres  are  not  subdivided.  The 
fractional  sections,  which  contain  160  acres  and  upwards,  are  subdivided  in  such 
manner  as  to  preserve  the  most  compact  and  convenient  forms.  A  series  of  con- 
tiguous townships,  laid  off  from  east  to  west,  is  called  a  range.  These  are  num- 
bered east  and  west  from  the  principal  meridian  running  due  north  and  south. 
Townships  are  counted  either  north  or  south  from  their  respective  base  lines. 

Sections,  or  miles  square,  are  numbered,  beginning  in  the  north-east  corner  of 
the  township,  progressively  west  to  the  range  line,  and  then  progressively  east  to 
the  range  line,  alternately,  terminating  at  the  south-east  corner  of  the  ^township, 
from  one  to  thirty-six,  as  in  the  annexed  diagram : 


6 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

18 

17 

16* 

15 

14 

13 

19 

20 

•21 

22 

23 

24 

30 

29 

'28 

27 

26 

25 

31 

32 

33 

34 

35 

36 

The  following  will  serve  as  a  specimen  of  the  nomenclature  by  which  lots  of 
land  may  be  indicated  in  the  system  of  the  public  land  surveys : — The  north-east 
division  in  the  larger  diagram  would  be  designated  as  Section  one,  say  of  Town- 
ship four,  in  Range  three,  east  from  the  third  principal  meridian,  and  would  con- 
tain 640  acres.  The  smaller  diagrams  numbered  1,  2,  3  and  4,  represent  sections 
divided  into  portions  of  320,  160,  80,  and  40  acres  each,  respectively.  The  dark- 
ened division  in  No.  1  would  be  designated  as  the  east  half  of  Section  one,  of 
Township  four,  in  Range  three  east  from  the  third  principal  meridian,  and  would 
contain  320  acres;  the  darkened  division  in  No. 2  would  be  the  north-east  quarter 
of  Section  one,  Township  and  Range  as  before,  and  would  be  a  tract  of  160  acres. 
The  darkened  division  in  No.  3  would  be  styled  the  east  half  of  the  north-east 
quarter  of  Section  one,  Township  and  Range  as  before,  and  would  contain  80  acres ; 
the  darkened  division  in  No.  4  would  be  the  north-east  quarter  of  the  north-east 
quarter  of  Section  one,  Township  and  Range  as  before,  and  would  be  a  tract  of 
40  acres.  This  is  the  smallest  portion  of  the  public  lands  sold  by  the  general  go- 
vernment 

The  foregoing  explanation  will  serve  to  exhibit  the  simplicity  of  a  system,  that 
to  strangers  unacquainted  with  the  method  of  numbering  the  sections,  and  the  va- 
rious subdivisions,  appears  perplexing  and  confused. 

By  this  admirable  system,  all  the  townships  and  subdivisions  are  in  regular 


*  Appropriated  for  schools  in  the  township. 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  53 


mathematical  forms,  precluding  the  fruitful  source  of  litigation,  arising  from  the 
uncertainty  of  butts  and  bounds,  in  forms  with  curve,  meandering  or  zigzag  lines. 
These  forms,  so  universal  in  farms  of  the  old  settlements,  are  not  only  difficult 
matters  of  adjustment  between  contiguous  owners,  and  exceedingly  inconvenient 
for  fencing,  but  are  unsightly  and  offensive  to  the  eye.  It  is  inconceivable  that 
the  beautiful  square  forms  of  the  present  land  system  should  not  have  been  sug- 
gested to  the  first  settlers  of  the  United  States. 

The  land  sales  unite  three  essential  objects ;  the  right  of  selection  by  the  high- 
est bidder  at  the  public  sales,  extreme  cheapness  at  the  private  sales,  and  a  title 
of  clearness  and  unquestionable  surety  commensurate  with  the  stability  of  the 
government  The  convenience  and  excellence  of  this  system  constitute  an  essen- 
tial element  in  the  rapid  population  of  the  new  states.  The  surveys  connected 
with  the  third  and  fourth  meridians,  and  a  small  portion  of  the  second,  embrace 
the  state  of  Illinois.  The  bf^e  line  for  both  the  second  and  third  principal  meri- 
dians commences  at  Diamond  Island,  in  the  Ohio,  opposite  Indiana,  and  runs  due 
west  till  it  strikes  the  Mississippi,  a  few  miles  below  St.  Louis. 

All  the  townships  in  Illinois,  south  and  east  of  the  Illinois  river,  are  numbered 
from  this  base  line  either  north  or  south.  The  third  principal  meridian  terminates 
with  the  northern  boundary  of  the  state.  The  fourth  principal  meridian  commen- 
ces on  the  right  bank,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois  river,  but  immediately 
crosses  to  the  east  shore,  and  passes  up  on  that  side,  (and  at  one  place  nearly  14 
miles  distant,)  to  a  point  in  the  channel  of  the  river,  72  miles  from  its  mouth. 
Here  its  base  line  commences  and  extends  across  the  peninsula  ya  the  Mississippi, 
a  short  distance  above  Quincy.  The  fourth  principal  meridian  is  continued  north- 
ward through  the  military  tract,  and  across  Rock  river,  to  a  curve  in  the  Missis- 
sippi at  the  upper  rapids,  in  Township  18  north,  and  about  12  or  15  miles  above 
Rock  Island.  It  here  crosses  and  passes  up  the.'jvest  side  of  the  Mississippi  river 
53  miles,  and  recrosses  into  Illinois,  and  passes  through  the  town  of  Galena  to  the 
northern  boundary  of  the  state.  It  is  thence  continued  to  the  Wisconsin  river  and 
made  the  principal  meridian  for  the  surveys  of 'the  territory,  while  the  northern 
boundary  line  of  the  state  is  constituted  its  base.,line  for  that  region.  A  large  tract 
of  country  in  the  north  and  north-eastern  portion  6£  this  state  is  yet  unsurveyed. 
This  does  not  prevent  the  hardy  pioneers  of  the  west  from  taking  possession,  where 
the  Indian  title  is  extinct,  as  it  is  now  to  all  lands  within  this  state.  They  risk 
the  chance  of  purchasing  it  when  brought  into  market 

The  public  lands  are  laid  off  into  districts,  in  each  of  which  there  is  a  land-of- 
fice under  the  superintendence  of  two  officers  appointed  by  the  President  and  Se- 
nate, called  the  Register  of  the  land-office,  and  the  Receiver  of  public  moneys. 
The  Register  and  Receiver  each  receive  a  salary  of  500  dollars  per  annum,  and  a 
commission  of  one  per  cent,  on  the  moneys  paid  into  their  office.  In  the  state  of 
Illinois  there  are  ten  land-offices  in  as  many  districts,  open  for  the  sale  or  entry  of 
public  lands. 

The  Land  District  of  Shawneetown  embraces  that  portion  of  the  state,  bounded 
north  by  the  base  line,  east  and  south  by  the  boundaries  of  the  state,  and  west  by 
the  third  principal  meridian.  Office  for  the  entry  and  sale  of  lands  at  Shawnee- 
town. 

The  Land  District  of  Kaskaskia  is  bounded  north  by  the  base  line,  and  compre- 
hends all  that  part  of  the  state  that  lies  between  the  third  principal  meridian  and 
the  Mississippi.  Land  office  at  Kaskaskia. 

The  I^and  District  of  Edvvardsville  extends  south  to  the  base  line,  east  to  the 
third  principal  meridian,  north  to  the  line  that  separates  the  thirteenth  and  four- 
teenth Townships,  north  and  west  to  the  Mississippi.  Land  office  at  Edwardsville. 

The  Land  District  of  Vandalia  extends  south  to  the  base  line,  east  to  the  line 
between  Ranges  eight  and  nine,  east  of  the  third  principal  meridian,  north  to  the 
south  line  of  Springfield  district,  and  west  to  the  Range  line  between  Ranges 
second  and  third  west  of  the  third  principal  meridian.  Land-office  at  Vandalia. 

The  Land  District  of  Palestine  extends  south  to  the  northern  boundary  of  the 
Shawneetown  district  west  to  the  eastern  boundary  of  Vandalia  district,  north  to 


54  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


the  dividing  line  between  Townships  sixteen  and  seventeen  north,  and  east  to  the 
boundary  of  Indiana. 

The  Land  District  of  Springfield  extends  south  to  Edwardsville  district,  east  to 
the  Palestine  and  Danville  districts,  and  north  and  west  to  the  Illinois  river. 

The  Land  District  of  Quincy  embraces  all  the  tract  of  country  between  the  Illi- 
nois and  Mississippi  rivers  to  the  line  between  Townships  twelve  and  thirteen 
north  and  west  of  the  third  principal  meridian. 

The  Land  District  of  Danville  includes  that  part  of  the  state  to  its  northern 
boundary,  which  lies  north  of  Palestine,  to  the  line  between  T.  30  and  31  N.  of 
the  third  meridian,  and  east  of  Springfield  district. 

North-west  District  is  in  the  north-western  portion  of  the  state,  and  bounded 
south  by  the  line  between  Townships  twelve  and  thirteen  north,  on  the  military 
tract,  and  east  by  the  line  between  Ranges  three  and  four  east  of  the  third  princi- 
pal meridian,  and  north  by  the  northern  boundary  'of  the  state.  Land-office  at 
Galena. 

North-east  District  is  in  the  north-east  portion  of  the  state,  and  bounded  south 
by  the  line  between  Townships  thirty  and  thirty-one,  on  the  third  principal  meri- 
dian, east  by  lake  Michigan,  and  north  by  the  boundary  of  the  state.  Land-office 
at  Chicago. 

The  land,  by  proclamation  of  the  President,  is  first  offered  for  sale  at  auction,  by 
half-quarter-sections.  If  110  one  bids  for  it  at  $1.25  per  acre  or  upwards,  it  is  sub- 
ject to  private  entry  at  any  time  after,  upon  payment  at  time  of  entry.  No  credit 
is  allowed.  In  special  cases  Congress  has  granted  pre-emption  rights,  where  set- 
tlements and  improvements  have  be^n  made  on  public  lands  previous  to  the  public 
sale. 

Pre-emption  rights  confer  the  privilege  only  of  purchasing  the  tract  containing 
improvements  at  $1.25  per  acre,  by  the  possessor,  without  the  risk  of  a  public 
sale. 

All  lands  in  this  state,  purchased  of  the  general  government,  are  exempted 
from  taxation  for  five  years  after  purchase.  All  lands  owned  by  private  citizens  or 
corporate  bodies,  and  not  exempted  as  above,  are  divided  by  law  into  two  classes 
for  taxation,  called  "first  and  second  rates."  First-rate  lands  are  taxed  $3.20  per 
quarter-sectioa  ofiJUJO  acres  per  annum.  Second-rate  lands  are  taxed  $2.40  per 
quarter-section,  ^njsiqes  a  county  tax  for  roads.  Resident  and  non-resident  land- 
holders are  taxed  equally. 

Residents  owning  lands  in  the  different  counties  may  list  the  same  and  pay 
taxes  in  the  counties  where  they  reside,  or  in  the  auditor's  office,  at  their  option. 
Non-residents  must  list  their  lands  in  the  auditor's  office.  Taxes  of  non-residents 
are  required  to  be  paid  m^the  state  treasury,  annually,  on  or  before  the  first  of 
August  If  not  paid  at  mat  time,  a  delinquent  list  of  all  lands,  owned  by  non-resi- 
dents, on  which  taxes  have  not  been  paid,  is  sent  to  the  clerk  of  the  county  com- 
missioners' court  of  the  county  where  the  land  lies,  and  a  transcript  of  this  list  is 
to  be  published  in  some  newspaper,  printed  within  the  state,  at  least  sixty  days  pre- 
vious to  sale.  If  the  taxes  are  not  paid  to  the  clerk  of  the  county  by  the  first 
Monday  in  March,  so  much  of  the  land,  as  is  necessary  to  pay  taxes  and  costs,  is 
sold  at  the  seat  of  justice  of  the  county. 

Lands  sold  for  taxes  may  be  redeemed  within  two  years  from  the  time  of  sale, 
by  paying  to  the  clerk  of  the  county,  for  the  use  of  the  purchaser,  double  the 
amount  of  taxes,  interest,  and  costs  for  which  the  same  may  have  been  sold. 
Lands  belonging  to  minor  heirs  may  be  redeemed  at  any  time  before  the  expira- 
tion of  one  year  from  the  time  the  youngest  of  said  heirs  shall  become  of  lawful 
age. 

If  persons  have  held  lands  in  the  Military  Tract,  or  in  the  state,  and  have  not 
.attended  to  paying  taxes  for  more  than  two  years,  the  land  is  sold  and  past  re- 
demption, unless  there  are  minor  heirs.  Every  non-resident  landholder  should 
employ  an  agent  within  the  state  to  pay  his  taxes,  and  take  the  oversight  of  his 
property.  All  deeds,  conveyances,  mortgages,  or  title-papers  whatsoever,  must  be 
recorded  in  the  "  recorder's  office"  in  the  county  where  the  land  is  situated.  Deeds 
and  title-papers  are  not  in  force  until  filed  in  the  recorder's  office.  The  words 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  55 


"  grant,  bargain  and  sell,"  whatever  may  be  the  specific  form  of  the  instrument 
in  other  respects,  convey  a  full  and  bona  fide  title,  to  warrant  and  defend,  unless 
express  orovision  is  made  to  the  contrary  in  the  instrument 

PLANS  OF  INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENT. 

Those  undertaken  by  the  state  are  embraced  in  two  divisions :  the  Illinois  and 
Michigan  canal,  and  the  internal  improvement  system  adopted  by  the  legislature 
last  winter. 

The  project  of  uniting  the  waters  of  Lake  Michigan  and  the  Illinois,  by  a  canal, 
was  conceived  soon  after  the  commencement  of  the  Erie  canal  of  New- York;  and 
a  board  of  commissioners,  with  engineers,  explored  the  route  and  estimated  the 
cost,  in  1823.  Provision,  by  a  grant  of  each  alternate  section  of  land  within  five 
miles  of  the  route,  having  been  granted  by  Congress,  another  board  of  commis- 
sioners was  appointed  in  1829,  a  new  survey  was  made,  and  the  towns  of  Chicago 
and  Ottawa  laid  off,  and  some  lots  sold  in  1830.  Various  movements  have  since 
been  made,  but  nothing  effectually  done. 

At  a  special  session  of  the  legislature  held  in  the  winter  of  1835-6,  an  act  was 
passed  for  the  construction  of  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal ;  the  Governor  was 
authorized  to  negotiate  a  loan  on  the  faith  and  credit  of  the  state,  not  exceeding 
$500,000,  a  board  of  three  commissioners  was  organized,  with  full  power  to  employ 
engineers,  let  contracts,  dispose  of  property,  and  carry  on  the  whole  business,  on 
behalf  of  the  state.  The  dimensions  of  the  canal  were  fixed  as  follow :  Sixty  feet 
wide  at  the  top  water-line,  thirty-six  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  six  feet  deep. 
The  irregular  fluctuations  or  tides  in  the  lakes,  occasioned  by  the  action  of  high 
winds,  rendered  the  depth  agreed  upon  indispensably  necessary  to  insure  a  naviga- 
tion of  at  least  four  feet. 

This  great  work  commences  on  the  north  fork  of  the  south  branch  of  Chicago 
river,  four  miles  to  the  south-west  of  the  city  of  Chicago  (the  river  itself  forming  a 
deep  and  natural  canal  from  this  point  to  the  harbour),  and  from  thence  extends  to 
the  Des  Plaines  river  seven  and  a  half  miles,  at  a,  place  called  "the  Point  of  Oaks." 
From  thence  down  the  valley  of  the  Des  Plaines  to  the  running  out  of  the  lake 
level,  25  miles.  On  section  23,  T.  36  N.  R.  70,  E.  of  the  third  principal  division, 
the  commissioners  have  laid  out  a  town  on  state  property,  one  mile  square,  called 
LockporL  Here  are  to  be  two  locks,  ten  feet  lift  each,  placed  in  conjunction,  so 
as  to  create  twenty  feet  fall,  and  an  immense  water-power /rom  the  surplus  water 
drawn  from  Lake  Michigan.  Here,  also,  will  be  constructed  a  basin  for  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile,  and  120  feet  wide.  From  Lockportth^  canal  proceeds  down  the 
valley  of  the  Des  Plaines  to  Juliet,  where  it  crosses  %w*_dam ;  its  line  runs  past 
Marseilles,  and  crosses  Fox  river  by  an  aqueduct  ttjfwixt  the  main  bluff  and 
Ottawa.  A  navigable  feeder  will  connect  it  with  the^rapids  of  Fox  river,  four 
miles  above  Ottawa,  and  extend  through  the  town..£o  the  Illinois  river,  where  a 
natural  basin,  of  deep  water,  is  at  the  mouth  of  Fox  river.  Below  Ottawa,  the 
canal  passes  down  the  right  bank  of  the  Illinois,  near  the  bluffs  of  the  Little  Ver- 
million,  and  enters  the  Illinois  river,  in  the  corner  of  fractional  section  21,  in  town- 
ship 33,  north  Range  one,  east  of  the  third  principal  meridian.  To  this  point  the 
Illinois  is  navigable  for  steamboats  at  all  stages  of  water.  A  steamboat  basin,  or 
harbour,  is  to  be  constructed,  and  a  large  town  laid  off  on  section  15,  near  the  ter- 
mination of  the  canal.  The  whole  length  of  the  canal,  including  Fox  river  feeder, 
will  be  100  miles  and  28  chains,  to  which  add  Chicago  river,  of  5  miles  and  44 
chains,  and  it  gives  105  miles  and  72  chains  for  the  entire  length  of  the  navigable 
line.  The  canal  is  estimated  to  cost  8,654,337  dollars. 

The  legislature,  at  its  last  session,  authorized  a  survey  of  the  Calumet,  and  the 
Sauga-nas-ke  valley,  with  the  view  of  constructing  a  lateral  canal,  to  open  a  navi- 
gable communication  from  the  main  canal  to  the  Calumet,  from  which  it  is  ex- 
pected a  water  communication  will  be  made  in  the  state  of  Indiana  to  the  Wabash 
and  Erie  canal.' 

The  resources  of  the  state  to  meet  the  cost  of  this  stupendous  work  arise  from 
the  sale  of  town  lots  and  lands  along  the  line  of  this  work.  Each  alternate  section, 


56  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


along  the  line  of  the  canal,  and  ten  miles  in  width,  has  been  granted  by  Congress 
or  the  purpose.  During  last  year,  375  lots  were  sold  in  Chicago  for  1,355,755 
dollars.  In  Ottawa,  78  lots  sold  for  21,358  dollars.  The  unsold  lands  tor  canal 
)urposes,  belonging  to  the  state,  amount  to  270,182  acres,  which,  including  the 
own  lots  laid  off,  are  estimated  equal  to  the  expense  of  the  canal.  Amount  of  sales 
'or  lands  and  town  lots  previous  to  1833,  $18,798  08£.  The  estimated  value  of 
.he  lots  in  the  town  of  Lockport,  and  the  town  laid  off  at  the  termination  of  the 
canal,  is  one  million  and  a  half  dollars.  The  remainder  of  the  canal  lands  may  be 
estimated  at  twenty  dollars  per  acre. 

The  project  of  this  canal  is  a  vast  enterprize  for  so  young  a  state,  but  truly  na- 
tional in  its  character,  and  will  constitute  one  of  the  main  arteries  in  eastern  and 
western  communication.  The  work  is  going  forward,  and  from  five  to  eight  years 
is  the  period  estimated  for  its  completion.  Already  commerce,  in  no  small  extent, 
is  passing  along  that  line.  Merchants  from  St.  Louis,  from  along  the  Illinois  river, 
from  Galena  and  the  Wisconsin  Territory,  and  especially  from  the  Wabash  river  as 
far  south  as  Terre  Haute,  bring  their  goods  that  way.  Were  a  communication 
opened  between  the  navigable  waters,  the  distant*  from  New- York  to  St.  Louis 
would  be  passed  in  from  sixteen  to  twenty  days. 

The  following  result  is  founded  upon  information  gathered  by  the  commission- 
ers:— From  New- York  to  Buffalo,  5  days. — From  Buffalo  to  Chicago,  by  steamboats 
fitted  for  lake  navigation,  8  days. — From  Chicago  to  the  foot  of  the  rapids  on  the 
canal,  estimating  the  speed-  at  three  miles  an  hour,  33  hours. — From  the  foot  of  the 
rapids  to  St.  Louis,  by  steamboats,  48  hours.  The  whole  distance  can  be  passed 
over  in  sixteen  days ;  but  giving  four  days  additional  time,  and  the  transportation 
on  this  route  can  be  made  in  twenty  days. 

The  commercial,  and  consequently  the  agricultural  interests  of  the  whole  valley 
of  the  Mississippi,  are  concerned. in  the  result  of  this  undertaking.  For  whatever 
amount  of  produce  is  thrown  off  through  this  channel  to  the  Canadas  and  New- 
York,  it  increases  the  advantages  of  a  market  for  .the  commerce  that  floats  down 
the  Mississippi.  The  Missouri. and  the  Wisconsin  Territory  are  no  less  interested 
in  opening  this  communication,  jn  accepting  the  donation  of  land  made  by  the 
general  government,  the  honour  ^nd  credit  of  Illinois  are  pledged  for  the  success 
of  this  enterprize. 

At  the  late  session  of  the  legislature  (1836-7),  an  act  was  passed  to  establisl 
and  maintain  a  general"  system  of  internal  improvement  It  provides  for  a  "  Board 
of  Fund  Commissioners,"  of  three  persons,  and  a  "Board  of  Commissioners  of  Pub- 
lic Works,"  of  seven  persons — one  in  each  judicial  circuit.  The  Board  of  Fund 
Commissioners  are  authorized  to  negotiate  all  loans  authorized  by  the  legislature 
on  the  faith  and  credit  of  the  state  for  objects  of  internal  improvement;  to  receive, 
manage,  deposit,  and  app^y  all  sums  of  money,  and  to  manage  the  whole  fisca: 
concerns  of  the  improvement  system.  The  Board  of  Public  Works  are  authorizet 
and  required  to  locate,  superintend,  direct,  and  construct,  on  behalf  of  the  state,  al! 
works  of  internal  improvement  which  are  or  shall  be  authorized  to  be  undertaken 
by  the  state  (except  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal,  which  is  managed  by  a  dis- 
tinct board).  Each  member  has  specific  charge  of  that  portion  of  the  works  that 
falls  within  his  own  district  They  are  required  to  execute  the  works  by  letting 
out  contracts,  except  in  special  cases.  The  Fund  Commissioners  are  authorizec 
to  contract  loans  by  issuing  state  stock  at  a  rate  not  exceeding  six  per  centum  per 
annum,  and  to  an  amount  not  exceeding  eight  millions  of  dollars,  redeemable  after 
1870. 

The  following  are  the  works  of  improvement  provided  for :  1.  The  Great  Wa- 
bash river  in  co-operation  with  the  state  of  Indiana,  in  that  part  over  which  both 
states  have  concurrent  jurisdiction;  appropriated  $100,000.  2.  Illinois  river 
$100,000.  3.  Rock  river,  $100,000.  4.  Kaskaskia  river,  $50,000.  5.  Little 
Wabash  river,  $50,000.  6.  On  the  great  western  mail  route  leading  from  Vin- 
cennes  to  St  Louis,  $250,000.  7.  A  rail -road  from  a  point  at  or  near  the  junction 
of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers,  via  Vandalia,  Shelby ville,  Decatur,  and  Bloom- 
ington ; — to  cross  the  Illinois  river,  at  the  termination  of  the  Illinois  and  Michigan 
canal,  and  from  thence  to  Galena — appropriated  $3,500,000. 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS. 


57 


8.  A  southern  cross  rail-road  from  Alton,  via  Edwardsville,  Carlyle,  Salem,  Fair- 
field,  and  Albion,  to  Mount  Carmel ;  whence  it  is  expected  a  line  will  be  extended 
through  Indiana  to  New  Albany,  and  become  connected  with  the  great  rail-road 
chartered  and  surveyed  from  the  Ohio  river  to  'Charleston,  South  Carolina.     Also  a 
rail-roal  from  Alton  to  Shawneetown,  to  diverge  from  the  aforesaid  southern  cross 
rail-road  at  Edwardsville,  and  pass  through  Lebanon,  Nashville,  Pinckneyville, 
Frankfort,  and  Equality.     And  further,  a  rail-road  from  Belleville,  via  Lebanon, 
and  to  intersect  the  road  from  Alton  to  Mount  Carmel.     This  last  will  pass  near 
Rock  Spring, — appropriated,  $1,750,000. 

9.  A  northern  cross  rail-road  from  Quincy  on  the  Mississippi  river,  to  cross  the 
Illinois  river  at  Meredosia,  and  to  Jacksonville,  Springfield,  Decatur,  Sydney,  Dan- 
ville, and  thence  to  the  state  line  in  the  direction  of  Lafayette,  Indiana,  and  thus 
form  a  line  of  communication  with  the  great  works  in  Indiana,  and  to  the  eastern 
states — appropriated,  $1,850,000. 

10.  A  rail-road  from  Alton,  via  Upper  Alton,  Hillsboro,  Shelbyville,  Charleston, 
Paris,  and  thence  to  the  state  line  in  the  direction  of  Terre  Haute,  Indiana,  where 
it  will  be  connected  with  rail-road  and  canal  communications  through  that  state, 
both  in  an  eastern  and  southern  direction — appropriated,  $1,250,000. 

11.  A  rail-road  from  Peoria,  vi£  Canton,  Macomb,  &c.,  to  Warsaw,  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi, at  the  foot  of  the  Des  Moines  rapids — appropriated,  $700,000. 

12.  A  rail-road  from  Bloomington  to  Mackinaw,  and  thence  two  branches  to  the 
Illinois  river ; — one  through  Tremont  to  Pekin,  the  other  to  Peoria — appropriated, 
$350,000.     An  appropriation  of  $200,000  was  made  to  those  counties  through 
which  no  rail-road  or  canal  is  made  at  the  cost  of  the  state,  to  be  in  a  rateable  pro- 
portion to  the  census  of  1835,  and  to  be  applied  in  the  improvement  of  roads, 
bridges,  and  other  public  works,  by  the  counties. 

The  funds  to  meet  the  expenses  of  these  plans  are  as  follow : — The  special  fund 
for  the  purpose  shall  consist'of  all  moneys  raised  from  state  bonds,  or  stock,  or  other 
loans,  authorized  by  law ; — all  appropriations  made  from  time  to  time  out  of  the 
revenue  of  the  state  arising  from  land  taxes ; — all  tolls  and  rents  of  water  privi- 
leges and  other  tolls  from  the  works  when  constructed ; — all  rents,  profits,  and  issues, 
from  lands  to  be  purchased  on  the  routes ; — the  proceeds  of  all  donations  of  lands 
from  the  general  government,  or  from  individuals,  companies,  or  corporations ; — a 
portion  of  the  proceeds  of  the  surplus  fund  distributed  by  Congress ;  together  with 
the  net  proceeds  of  all  bank  and  other  stocks  subscribed  and  owned  by  the  state, 
after  liquidating  the  interest  on  loans  contracted  for  the  purchase  of  such  bank  or 
other  stocks.  A  subsequent  enactment  authorized  the  fund  commissioners  to  sub- 
scribe 2,000,000  dollars  stock  to  the  State  Bank  of  Illinois,  and  1,400,000  dollars  to 
the  Illinois  bank  at  Shawneetown,  by  the  creation  of  six.per  cent,  stock.  The  net 
proceeds  of  this  stock,  after  paying  interest  on  the  loans,  will  equal  six  per  centum 
per  annum,  or  produce  an  annual  revenue  to  the  Internal  Improvement  Fund  of 
$180,000. 

The  interest  of  the  state  in  all  these  works,  all  their  proceeds,  with  the  faith  of 
the  state,  are  irrevocably  pledged  for  the  payment  of  the  interest  and  the  redemp- 
tion of  the  principal  of  all  stock  and  loans  for  Internal  Improvement.  The  improve- 
ment of  the  great  western  mail  route  from  Vincennes  to  St.  Louis,  and  the  special 
appropriation  to  the  counties,  are  to  be  provided  for  from  the  first  loans  made.  The 
improvement  of  the  rivers  is  to  be  for  steam,  keel,  and  flat  boats;  to  be  commenced 
at  their  mouths,  and  continued  up  as  far  as  the  appropriations  admit.  The  rail-roads 
are  to  be  commenced  at  their  intersection  with  navigable  rivers  and  commercial 
towns,  and  as  soon  as  five  miles  of  any  one  line  is  completed,  the  commissioners 
are  required  to  place  thereon  locomotives  and  facilities  of  transportation,  to  estab- 
lish tolls,  etc. 

Congress  has  made  an  appropriation  to  improve  the  navigation  of  the  Mississippi 
at  the  rapids — a  work  of  immense  importance  to  the  northern  part  of  this  state,  and 
the  Wisconsin  Territory.  The  improvement  of  the  navigation'  of  the  Mississippi 
should  be  regarded  and  urged  as  strictly  a  national  work.  There  are  two  rapids 
in  the  Mississippi  river,  which,  in  times  of  low  water,  impede  the  progress  of 
steamboats.  One  is  near  the  mouth  of  the  Des  Moines,  and  adjoining  Hancock 

II 


58  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


county,  where  the  water  descends  over  sand-rocks  twenty-five  feet  five  inches  in 
11  miles.  The  other  commences  at  Rock  Island,  and  extends  about  15  miles.  The 
descent  of  the  water  in  that  distance  is  21  feet  10  inches.  In  both  of  these  rapids 
there  are  ledges  of  rocks,  with  intervals  of  deep  water,  extending  across  the  river. 

The  harbour  at  Chicago,  nearly  completed  by  the  general  government,  will  be  of 
immense  benefit  to  that  place,  and  all  the  northern  portion  of  the  state.  It  will 
form  one  of  the  finest  harbours  in  all  the  northern  lake  country.  The  National 
Road  is  in  progress  through  this  state,  and  considerable  improvement  has  been 
made  on  that  portion  which  lies  between  Vandalia  and  the  boundary  of  Indiana. 
It  runs  from  Vincennes  in  a  south-westerly  course  to  Vandalia,  a  distance  of  90 
miles.  The  road  is  established  80  feet  wide.  But  little  has  been  done  on  this 
road  during  the  last  two  years.  About  $220,000  of  appropriated  funds  now  remain 
on  hand,  and  arrangements  are  in  progress  to  work  out  this  fund  during  the  present 
season.  From  Vandalia  westward  the  road  is  not  yet  located,  but  the  legislature 
of  Illinois,  with  great  unanimity,  have  consented  to  its  passage  through  the  state, 
only  on  the  contingency  that  it  shall  pass  Alton  and  cross  the  Mississippi,  above 
the  mouth  of  the  Missouri. 

Many  companies  have  been  incorporated  for  the  construction  of  short  canals, 
rail-roads,  and  turnpike  roads.  A  rail-road  from  Naples  to  Jacksonville,  now  under- 
going construction ; — another  rail-road  from  Jacksonville,  via  Lynnville  and  Win- 
chester, to  the  Illinois  river  opposite  Augusta,  A  third  railway  has  been  com- 
menced from  Chicago  to  the  Des  Plaines,  12  miles-  over  level  prairies,  and  design- 
ed to  extend  across  the  state  to  Galena.  Another  rail-road  is  now  under  contract 
and  working  from  the  Mississippi,  opposite  to  St.  Louis,  across  the  American  Bot- 
tom to  the  coal-mines  in  the  bluffs  of  St.  Clair  county. 

No  state  in  the  Union  possesses  such  facilities  for  intercommunication  by  canals 
and  railways,  at  so  cheap  a  rate,  and  which  can  be  so  equally  distributed  to  its 
population,  as  Illinois. 

MANUFACTURES. 

•/ 
In  the  infancy  of  a  state,  little  6an  be  expected  in  machinery  and  manufactures; 

and  in  a  region  so  much  deficient  in  water-power  as  some  parts  of  Illinois  are,  still 
less  may  be  looked  for.  Yet  Illinois  is  not  entirely  deficient  in  manufacturing  en- 
terprize.  The  principal  salines  of  this  state  have  been  mentioned  under  the  head 
of  minerals. 

Steam  Mills  for  flouring  and  sawing  are  becoming  very  common,  and  in  general 
are  profitable.  Some  are  now  in  operation,  with  four  runs  of  stones,  and  which 
manufacture  one  hundred  barrels  of  flour  in  a  day.  Mills  propelled  by  steam, 
water,  and  animal  power,  are  constantly  increasing.  Steam-mills  will  become  nu- 
merous, particularly  in  the  southern  and  middle  portions  of  the  state ;  and  it  is  de- 
serving remark,  that  while  these  portions  are  not  well  supplied  with  durable  water- 
power,  they  contain,  in  the  timber  of  the  forest,  and  the  inexhaustible  bodies  of 
bituminous  coal,  abundant  supplies  of  fuel; — while  the  northern  portion,  though 
deficient  in  fuel,  has  abundant  water-power.  A  good  steam  saw-mill,  with  two 
saws,  can  be  built  for  2000  dollars ;  and  a  steam  flouring  mill,  with  two  runs  of 
stones,  elevators,  and  other  apparatus  complete,  and  of  sufficient  force  to  turn  out 
forty  barrels  of  flour  per  day,  may  be  built  for  6000  dollars. 

The  northern  half  of  the  state  will  be  most  abundantly  supplied  with  water- 
power,  and  ordinary  mills  for  sawing  lumber  and  grinding  grain  are  now  in  opera- 
tion on  the  various  streams.  Probably  in  no  part  of  the  great  West  does  there 
exist  such  an  immense  water-power,  as  is  to  be  found  naturally,  and  which  will  be 
created  artificially  along  the  rapids  of  the  Illinois  and  Fox  rivers,  and  the  Illinois 
and  Michigan  canal.  Incorporated  companies  with  ample  means  are  now  construct- 
ing hydraulic  works  at  Ottawa,  Marseilles,  and  other  points  along  the  rapids  of  the 
Illinois.  Fox  river  rapids  have  a  descent  of  sixteen  feet  at  Green's  mills,  four 
miles  above  Ottawn,  with  abundant  supplies  of  water  at  its  lowest  stage;  and  the  ; 
river  itself,  from  thence  to  M'Henry  county,  is  a  rapid  stream,  with  rocky  banks, 
admirably  suited  for  hydraulic  purposes.  On  the  Kankakee  are  some  fine  sites  for 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  59 

water  privileges.  Rock  river  furnishes  abundant  facilities,  especially  at  Grand 
Detour  and  Rockford.  A  company  engaged  in  the  establishment  of  a  large  town 
at  the  mouth  of  Rock  river,  has  been  recently  chartered  by  the  legislature,  for  the 
purpose  of  cutting  a  canal  from  a  point  on  the  Mississippi  at  the  upper  rapids,  to 
Rock  river,  by  which  they  expect  to  gain  eighteen  feet  fall  and  immense  hydraulic 
power. 

It  is  expected  that  the  improvement  of  the  Kaskaskia  and  Little  Wabash  rivers, 
as  provided  for  by  the  recent  law  of  the  state,  will  create  valuable  water  privileges 
along  these  streams.  Certainly,  in  connexion  with  the  improvement  of  the  Great 
Wabash  river  by  the  joint  operation  of  Indiana  and  Illinois,  hydraulic  power  to  any 
desirable  extent  will  be  created.  Such  will  be  the  effect,  too,  upon  Sangamon  and 
other  rivers  within  the  state.  Des  Plaines  river,  and  also  the  Calumet,  furnish 
extensive  hydraulic  privileges ;  and  the  surplus  water  provided  by  the  construction 
of  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal,  and  which  may  be  conveniently  applied  to 
manufacturing  purposes,  is  estimated  to  be  equal  to  that  required  for  running  700 
pairs  of  mill-stones  four  and  a  half  feet  in  diameter. 

Incorporations  for  companies  for  various  manufacturing  purposes  have  been 
granted  by  the  legislature  within  the  last  four  or  five  years,  some  of  which  have 
been  organized  and  commenced  operations.  The  conclusion  is,  that  Illinois  will 
furnish  as  great  facilities  for  manufacturing  purposes,  as  soon  as  the  circumstances 
and  wants  of  the  community  shall  call  for  their  operation,  as  can  be  found  in  any 
western  state. 

Large  quantities  of  castor  oil  are  annually  manufactured  in  Illinois  from  the 
palma  christi,  or  castor  bean.  A  number  of  presses  for  expressing  the  oil  are  in 
operation  in  Madison,  Greene,  Macoupin,  St.  Clair,  Randolph,  Edwards,  and  per- 
haps other  counties.  The  most  extensive  establishment  is  at  Edwardsville,  where 
from  thirty  to  forty  thousand  gallons  are  made  annually. 

A  few  factories  for  spinning  cotton  yarn  have  been  put  into  operation  in  several 
counties  on  a  small  scale  of  from  one  hundred  to  two  hundred  spindles  each.  They 
are  carried  on  by  animal  power  on  the  inclined  plavwe. 

Coarse  clothing  from  cotton  is  manufactured  in&Jthe  southern  portion  of  the 
state,  where  the  article  is  raised  in  small  quantities,  ^Woollen  cloth,  and  jeans,  a 
mixture  of  wool  and  cotton,  is  made  for  ordinary  wear,  as  is  cloth  from  flax. 

Boat  building  will  soon  become  a  branch  of  business  in  this  state.  Some  steam- 
boats have  already  been  constructed  within  its  limits,  along  the  Mississippi.  It  is 
thought  that  Alton  and  Chicago  are  convenient  sites  fotjhis;. business. 

There  is  in  this  state,  as  in  all  the  western  sfci.KM,  a -large  amount  of  domestic 
manufactures  made  by  families.  All  the  trades,  needful  to  a  new  country,  are  in 
existence.  Carpenters,  wagon-makers,  cabinet-makers,  blacksmiths,  tanneries, 
&c.,  rnay  be  found  in  every  county  and  town.  At  Mount  Carmel  and  Springfield, 
there  are  iron  foundries  for  castings. 

There  has  been  a  considerable  falling  off  in  the  manufacture  of  whiskey  with- 
in a  few  years,  and  it  is  sincerely  hoped  by  thousands  of  citizens  that  this  branch 
of  business,  so  decidedly  injurious  to  the  morals  and  happiness  of  the  community 
and  of  individuals,  will  entirely  decline. 

Ox-mills  on  the  inclined  plane,  and  horse-mills  by  draught,  are  common  through- 
out the  middle  and  southern  parts  of  the  state. 

EDUCATION. 

The  Congress  of  the  United  States,  in  the  act  for  admitting  the  state  of  Illinois 
into  the  Union,  granted  to  it  the  section  numbered  sixteen  in  every  Township,  or 
one  thirty-sixth  part  of  all  the  public  lands  within  the  state,  for  the  use  of  schools. 
The  avails  of  this  section  are  understood  to  constitute  a  fund  for  the  benefit  of  the 
families  living  within  the  surveyed  township,  and  not  the  portion  of  a  common  fund 
to  be  applied  by  the  state  for  the  general  purposes  of  education.  Three  per  cent, 
of  the  net  proceeds  of  all  the  public  lands,  lying  within  this  state,  which  shall  be 
sold  after  the  1st  of  January,  1819,  is  to  be  paid  over  by  the  general  government 
and  constitute  a  common  fund  for  education,  under  the  direction  of  the  state  au- 


60  *  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


thority.  One  sixth  of  this  three  per  cent  fund  is  to  be  exclusively  bestowed  upon 
a  college  or  university.  Two  entire  townships,  or  46,080  acres,  selected  from 
choice  portions  of  the  public  lands,  have  likewise  been  given  to  education.  Part 
of  this  land  has  been  sold  by  state  authority,  and  the  avails  funded  at  six  per  cent 
interest 

The  amount  of  funds  realized  from  these  sources,  and  under  charge  of  the  state, 
(independent  of  the  sixteenth  sections,)  is  about  $384,183,  the  interest  of  which 
is  now  distributed  annually  to  such  schools  as  make  due  returns  to  the  proper  au- 
thority. By  a  recent  act  of  the  legislature,  a  moiety  of  the  "  surplus  fund,"  re- 
ceived from  the  national  treasury,  is  to  be  converted  into  bank  stock,  and  the  in- 
come to  be  distributed  to  common  schools.  The  income  of  the  three  per  centum 
from  the  sales  of  public  lands,  will  continue  as  long  as  there  are  public  lands  to 
be  sold. 

The  unsold  lands  in  this  state  belonging  to  the  general  government,  may  be 
estimated  at  18,000,000  of  acres.  Were  this  sold  at  the  present  minimum  price, 
it  would  produce  $22,500,000,  of  which  three  per  cent  would  be  675,000  dollars. 
But  it  is  highly  probable  that  this  immense  domain  will  not  all  be  sold  at  its  pre- 
sent price;  averaging  it,  therefore,  at  75  cents  per  acre,  it  would  amount  to 
$13,500,000,  of  which  three  per  cent  belonging  to  this  state,  would  give  $405,000 
for  education  purposes. 

The  amount  of  the  sections  numbered  sixteen,  and  reserved  for  schools  in  the 
respective  townships,  was  estimated  by  the  commissioner  of  public  lands,  and  re- 
ported to  Congress  in  April,  1832,  at  977,457  acres  in  Illinois.  This  tract  is  not 
usually  sold  until  the  township  in  which  it  lies  is  somewhat  populated,  and  hence 
commands  a  higher  price  than  other  lands.  The  section  in  the  vicinity  of  Chicago 
was  sold  in  November,  1833,  (after  reserving  twelve  acres,)  for  $38,705.  Other 
tracts  in  settled  portions  of  th^  state  have  been  sold  for  from  five  to  ten  dollars 
per  acre.  Estimating  the  whole  at  two  dollars  per  acre,  the  value  is  $1,954,914. 

Present  fund  at  i;  Merest,     - $384,183 

Value  of  Seminary  lands  unsold,      .......  20,000 

Value  of  sections  numbered  sixteen,      ------  1,954,914 

Estimate  of  ^tjie  three  per  cent,  fund  on  all  public  land 

now  unsold"  in  the  state,  at  75  cents  per  acre,  -    -    -  405,000 


^^^    »  $2,764,097 

To  this  add  the  moiety  .of  the  surplus  fund  to  be  invested  in  bank  stock  and  the 
income  to  be  distributed  with'  the  interest  on  the  school  fund,  equal  to  318,500  dol- 
lars ;  but  as  it  is  liable  to  be  demanded  by  the  general  government,  it  has  not  been 
considered  as  any  portion  of  the  permanent  school  fund.  The  funds  and  claims 
of  Illinois  for  education  purposes  may  be  estimated  at  $3,000,000. 

Provision  now  exists  by  law  for  the  people  to  organize  themselves  into  school 
districts,  and  to  conduct  the  affairs  of  the  school  in  a  corporate  capacity  by  trus- 
tees, and  they  can  derive  aid  from  public  funds  under  control  of  the  state.  Upon 
petition  from  the  inhabitants  of  a  township,  the  section  numbered  sixteen  can  be 
sold,  and  the  proceeds  funded,  the  interest  of  which  may  be  applied  annually  to  the 
teachers  of  such  schools  within  the  township  as  conform  to  the  requisites  of  the 
law.  To  some  extent  the  people  have  availed  themselves  of  these  provisions,  and 
receive  the  interest  of  the  fund. 

A  material  defect  in  all  the  laws  that  have  been  framed  in  this  state,  on  this 
subject,  has  been  in  not  requiring  the  necessary  qualifications  on  the  part  of  teach- 
ers, and  a  previous  examination  before  a  competent  board  or  committee.  Without 
such  a  provision,  no  school  law  will  be  of  much  real  service.  The  people  have 
suffered  much  already,  and  common  school  education  has  been  greatly  retarded  by 
the  imposition  of  unqualified  and  worthless  persons  under  the  name  of  school 
teachers ;  and  were  funds  ever  so  liberally  bestowed,  they  would  prove  of  little  real 
service,  without  the  requisites  of  sobriety,  morality,  and  sufficient  ability  to  teach 
well  on  the  part  of  those  who  get  the  pay. 

A  complete  common  school  system  must  be  organized,  sooner  or  later,  and  will 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  61 


be  sustained  by  the  people.  The  lands,  education  funds,  and  wants  of  the  country, 
call  for  it.  Many  good  primary  schools  now  exist,  and  where  three  or  four  of  the 
leading  families  unite  and  exert  their  influence  in  favour  of  the  measure,  it  is  not 
difficult  to  have  a  good  school.  In  each  county  a  school  commissioner  is  appointed, 
to  superintend  the  sales  of  the  sixteenth  sections,  loan  the  money,  receive  and  ap- 
portion the  interest  received  from  this  fund  and  from  the  state  funds,  receive  sche- 
dule returns  of  the  number  of  scholars  that  attend  each  school,  and  make  report 
annually  to  the  secretary  of  state. 

The  people  in  any  settlement  can  organize  themselves  into  a  school  district,  em- 
ploy a  teacher,  and  obtain  their  proportion  of  the  income  from  the  school  funds, 
provided  the  teacher  keeps  a  schedule  of  the  number  of  scholars  who  attend,  the 
number  of  days  each  one  is  present,  and  the  number  of  days  each  scholar  is  ab- 
sent, a  copy  of  which  must  be  certified  by  the  trustees  of  the  district,  and  returned 
to  the  school  commissioners  of  the  county  semi-annually.  If  the  school  is  made 
up  from  parts  of  two  or  more  townships,  a  separate  schedule  of  the  scholars  from 
each  township  must  be  made  out.  The  term  "township"  in  the  school  laws 
merely  expresses  the  surveys  of  36  sections,  and  not  a  civil  organization. 

Several  seminaries,  and  institutions  for  colleges,  have  been  established,  and  pro- 
mise success. 

Illinois  College  is  located  in  the  vicinity  of  Jacksonville,  and  one  mile  west  of 
the  town.  Its  situation  is  on  a  delightful  eminence,  fronting  the  east,  and  over- 
looking the  town,  and  a  vast  extent  of  beautiful  prairie  country,  now  covered  with 
well-cultivated  farms.  The  buildings  are  as  follows :  a  brick  edifice,  104  feet  in 
length,  40  feet  in  width,  five  stories  high,  including  the  ftasement;  containing  32 
apartments  for  the  accommodation  of  officers  and  students.  To  this  main  building 
are  attached  two  wings,  each  38  feet  long  and  28  feet  wide,  three  stories  high,  in- 
cluding the  basement;  for  the  accommodation  of  the  families  of  the  Faculty.  The 
chapel  is  a  separate  building,  65  feet  long  and  36  feet  wide,  two  stories  high,  in- 
cluding-rooms  for  public  worship,  lectures,  recitations,  library,  etc.  and  eight  rooms 
for  students.  There  are  also  upon  the  premises  a  farm-house,  barn,  workshops  for 
students  who  wish  to  perform  manual  labour,  and  other  out-buildings.  The  farm 
consists  of  300  acres  of  land,  all  under  fence.  The  improvements  and  stock  on 
the  farm  are  valued  at  several  thousand  dollars. 

Students  who  choose  are  allowed  to  employ  a  portion  of  each  day  in  manual 
labour,  either  upon  the  farm  or  in  the.  workshop.  Some  individuals  earn  $150 
each,  during  the  year.  The  library  consists  of  about  1500  volumes.  There  is 
also  a  valuable  chemical  and  philosophical  apparatus.  The  year  is  divided  into 
two  terms,  of  twenty  weeks  each.  The  first  term  commences  eight  weeks  after 
the  third  Wednesday  in  September.  The  second  term  commences  on  the  Wednes- 
day previous  to  the  5th  of  May ;  leaving  eight  weeks  vacation  in  the  fall,  and  four 
in  the  spring. 

There  are  42  students  connected  with  the  college  classes,  and  9B  students  in 
the  preparatory  department.  Of  this  number,  several  are  beneficiaries,  who  are 
aided  by  education  societies,  with  a  view  to  the  gospel  ministry.  The  Faculty  of 
Illinois  College  consists  of  a  Professor  of  Moral  and  Intellectual  Philosophy  and 
Political  Economy,  who  is  also  President  of  the  Institution ;  a  Professor  of  Mathe- 
matics and  Natural  Philosophy,  and  lecturer  on  chemistry ;  a  Professor  of  the 
Greek  and  Latin  languages,  a  Professor  of  Rhetoric  and  Belles  Lettres,  and  an 
Instructor  in  the  preparatory  department.  The  pupils  in  the  different  classes  are 
as  follows  :  Senior,  3 ;  —  Junior,  11 ;  —  Sophomore,  12 ;  —  Freshman,  16 ;  —  Total 
Collegiate  department,  42.  In  the  Preparatory  department,  22 :  Total,  64.  The 
course  of  instruction  is  intended  to  be  equal  to  the  first-rate  colleges  in  the  eastern 
states. 

Shurtleff  College  of  Alton,  Illinois,  is  pleasantly  situated  at  Upper  Alton.  It 
originated  in  the  establishment  of  a  seminary  at  Rock  Sprin?,  in  1827,  and  which 
was  subsequently  removed.  At  a  meeting  held  June  4th,  1832,  seven  gentlemen 
formed  a  written  compact,  and  agreed  to  advance  funds  for  the  purchase  of  about 
360  acres  of  land,  and  put  up  an  academical  building  of  brick,  two  stories  high 
with  a  stone  basement,  40  feet  long,  and  32  feet  wide.  A  large  stone  building  for 

6 


62  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


a  Refectory,  and  for  Professors'  and  Students'  rooms,  has  since  been  erected.  A 
Preparatory  school  was  commenced  in  1833.  In  1835,  building-lots  were  laid  off 
within  the  corporate  bounds  of  the  town,  a  part  of  which  was  sold,  and  a  valuable 
property  still  remains  for  future  sale.  The  same  year,  funds  to  some  extent  were 
obtained  in  the  eastern  states,  of  which  the  liberal  donation  of  ten  thousand  dol- 
lars was  received  from  Benjamin  Shurtleff,  M.  D.,  of  Boston,  which  gives  name  to 
the  institution.  Of  this  fund  5000  dollars  is  to  be  appropriated  towards  a  College 
building,  and  5000  dollars  towards  the  endowment  of  a  Professorship  of  Oratory, 
Rhetoric,  and  Belles-Lettres.  Regular  college  classes  are  not  yet  organized.  The 
Preparatory  department  is  in  regular  progress  and  contains  about  60  students. 
Measures  are  in  progress  to  put  up  a  large  college  building,  and  to  complete  the 
organization  of  the  College  Faculty. 

Alton  Theological  Seminary  is  an  organization  distinct  from  Shurtleff  College, 
and  is  under  the  charge  of  a  Theological  Professor,  with  seven  or  eight  students, 
licentiates  of  Baptist  churches. 

M'Kendreean  College,  under  the  supervision  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church, 
is  located  at  Lebanon,  St.  Clair  county.  It  has  a  commodious  framed  building,  and 
about  50  students  in  the  Preparatory  department,  under  the  charge  of  two  compe- 
tent instructors. 

M'Donough  College,  at  Macomb,  has  just  commenced  operations.  It  is  identi- 
fied with  the  interests  of,  the  "  old  school"  Presbyterians,  as  the  Illinois  college  at 
Jacksonville  is  with  the  "  new  school"  Presbyterians. 

Canton  College  in  Fulton  county  has  recently  been  chartered  as  a  college  by 
the  legislature,  and  ist  a  respectable  academical  institution,  and  has  70  or  80 
students.  A  literary  Institution,  modelled  somewhat  after  the  plan  of  the  Oneida 
Institute  in  the  state  of  New- York,  is  in  progress  at  Galesboro',  Knox  county. 

Belvidere  college,  in  Winngbago  county,  has  been  recently  chartered,  and  an 
effort  is  about  being  made  to  establish  a  respectable  literary  institution  in  this  new 
and  interesting  portion  of  the -state.  SeTeraJ  respectable  academies  and  semina- 
ries are  also  in  operation,  established  chiefly  j)y  individual  effort,  where  good 
schools  are  taught.  Amongst  these  we  notice  the  following,  though  some  of  equal 
importance  may  be  overlooked. 

The  Jacksonville  Academy  is* established  for  the  convenience  of  those  whose 
studies  are  not  sufficiently  advanced  to  enter  the  Preparatory  department  of  Illinois 
College.  The  Jacksonville  Female  Academy  is  a  flourishing  institution.  A  re- 
spectable academy  is  in  operation  at  Springfield ;  another  at  Princeton,  Putnam 
county  ;  a  third  at  Griggsville  ;  and  a  fourth  at  Quincy. 

The  Alton  Female  Seminary  is  an  institution  projected  for  a  full  and  useful 
course  of  instruction,  on  a  large  scale,  and  is  designed  wholly  as  a  boarding-school. 
The  business  of  instruction  will  be  in  the  hands  of  competent  ladies.  The  system 
of  instruction  will  be  extensive. 

The  project  of  establishing  a  seminary  for  the  education  of  teachers,  at  Waverley 
in  the  south-eastern  part  of  Morgan  county,  is  entertained  by  several  gentlemen. 
A  seminary  is  about  being  established  in  a  settlement  of  Reformed  Presbyterians 
in  the  eastern  part  of  Randolph  county.  The  "Reformers,"  or  Campbell ites,  as 
some  term  them,  have  a  charter,  and  contemplate  establishing  a  college  at  Hano- 
ver, in  Tazewell  county.  Thus,  a  broad  and  deep  foundation  is  about  being  laid 
in  Illinois  for  the  promotion  of  education.  Several  lyceums  and  literary  associa- 
tions exist  in  this  state,  and  there  is  in  almost  every  county  a  decided  expression 
of  popular  opinion  in  favour  of  education. 

RELIGION. 

The  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  is  the  most  numerous.  The  Illinois  Confer- 
ence, which  embraces  this  state  and  a  portion  of  Wisconsin  Territory,  in  1835  had 
61  circuit  preachers,  308  local  preachers,  and  15,097  members  of  society.  They 
sustain  preaching  in  every  county,  and  in  a  large  number  of  the  settlements. 

The  Baptist  denomination  includes  22  associations,  260  churches,  160  preach- 
er?, and  7,350  communicants. 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  63 


The  Presbyterians  have  one  Synod,  eight  Presbyteries,  and  about  80  churches, 
60  ministers,  and  2,500  members. 

There  are  12  or  15  Congregationalist  churches,  united  in  an  association,  and 
several  ministers. 

The  Methodist  Protestant  denomination  has  one  conference,  22  ministers,  and 
344  members. 

The  Reformers,  as  they  term  themselves,  or  "  Campbellites,"  as  others  call  them, 
have  several  large,  and  a  number  of  small  societies,  a  number  of  preachers,  and 
several  hundred  members,  including  the  Christian  body,  with  which  they  are  in 
union.  They  immerse  all  who  profess  to  believe  in  Christ  for  the  remission  of 
sins,  but  differ  widely  from  orthodox  Baptists  on  some  points  of  doctrine. 

The  Cumberland  Presbyterians  have  two  or  three  Presbyteries,  twelve  or  fifteen 
preachers,  and  several  hundred  communicants. 

There  are  two  churches  of  Reformed  Presbyterians,  or  Covenanters,  one  minis- 
ter, and  about  280  communicants,  with  a  few  families  scattered  in  other  parts  of 
the  state.  There  are  also  two  or  three  societies-  of  Associate  Reformed  Presbyte- 
rians, or  Seceders. 

In  M'Lean  county  is  a  society  of  United  Brethren,  or,  as  some  call  them,  Dutch 
Methodists. 

The  Dunkards  have  five  or  six  societies  and  some  preachers  in  this  state. 

There  are  several  Lutheran  congregations  with  preachers. 

The  Protestant  Episcopal  Church  has  an  organized  diocese,  eight  or  ten  congre- 
gations, and  seven  or  eight  ministers. 

There  are  small  societies  of  Friends  or  Quakers  in  Tazewell  and  Crawford 
counties ;  and  a  few  Mormons,  scattered  through  the  state. 

The  Roman  Catholics  are  not  numerous.  They  have  a  dozen  congregations, 
eight  or  ten  priests,  and  a  population  between  five  and  six  thousand  including  old 
and  young.  A  convent  and  boarding-school  for  young  ladies  is  in  operation  at  Kas- 
kaskia.  The  Roman  Catholics  are  mostly  about  the  old  French  villages,  and  the 
labourers  along  the  line  of  canal. 

There  is  considerable  expression  of  good  feeling^amongst  the  different  religious 
denominations,  and  the  members  frequently  hear  the  preachers  of  each  other,  as 
there  are  but  few  congregations  that  are  supplied  every  Sabbath.  The  qualifica- 
tions of  the  clergymen  are  various.  A  number  of  them  are  men  of  talents,  learn- 
ing, influence,  and  unblemished  piety.  Others  have  had  but  few  advantages  in 
acquiring  either  literary  or  theological  information,  and  yet  are  good  speakers  and 
useful  men. 

In  general  there  are  as  many  professors  of  religion,  of  some  description,  in 
proportion  to  the  population,  as  in  most  of  the  states.  The  number  will  not  vary 
far  from  40,000,  or  one  to  ten. 

SUGGESTIONS  TO  EMIGRANTS. 

Extracted  from  Mr.  Peck's  "  Emigrant'i  Guide." 

Canal,  Steam-Boat  and  Stage  Routes. — Other  Modes  of  Travel — Expenses 
— Roads,  Distances,  iSf-c.  ej-c. 

Persons  in  moderate  circumstances,  or  who  would  save  time  and  expense,  need 
not  make  a  visit  to  the  West,  to  ascertain  particulars  previous  to  removal.  A  few 
general  facts,  easily  collected  from  a  hundred  sources,  will  enable  persons  to  de- 
cide the  great  question,  whether  they  will  emigrate  to  the  Valley.  By  the  same 
means,  emigrants  may  determine  to  what  state,  and  to  what  part  of  that  state, 
their  course  shall  be  directed.  There  are  many  things  that  a  person  of  plain  com- 
mon sense  will  take  for  granted  without  inquiry, — such  as  facilities  for  obtaining 
all  the  necessaries  of  life,  the  readiness  with  which  property  of  any  description 
may  be  obtained  for  a  fair  value,  and  especially  farms  and  wild  land,  that  they  can 
live  where  hundreds  of  thousands  of  others  of  similar  habits  and  feelings  live;  and 
above  all,  they  should  take  it  for  granted,  that  there  are  difficulties  to  be  encoun- 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


tered  in  every  country,  and  in  all  business ; — that  these  difficulties  can  be  sur- 
mounted with  reasonable  effort,  patience,  and  perseverance;  and  that,  in  every 
country,  people  sicken  and  die. 

Having  decided  to  what  state,  and  part  of  the  state,  an  emigrant  will  remove, 
let  him  then  conclude  to  take  as  little  furniture  and  other  luggage  as  he  can  do 
with,  especially  if  he  comes  by  public  conveyances.  Those  who  reside  within 
convenient  distance  of  a  sea-port,  would  find  it  both  safe  and  economical  to  ship 
by  New-Orleans,  in  boxes,  such  articles  as  are  not  wanted  on  the  road,  especially 
if  they  steer  for  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Mississippi.  Bed  and  other  clothing, 
books,  &c.  packed  in  boxes,  like  merchants'  goods,  will  go  much  safer  and  cheaper 
by  New-Orleans,  than  by  any  of  the  inland  routes.  I  have  received  more  than  100 
packages  and  boxes  from  eastern  ports,  by  that  route,  within  20  years,  and  never 
lost  one.  Boxers  should  be  marked  to  the  owner  or  his  agent  at  the  river  port 
where  destined,  and  to  the  charge  of  some  forwarding  house  in  New-Orleans.  The 
freight  and  charges  may  be  paid  when  the  boxes  are  received. 

If  a  person  detSigns  to  remove  to  the  north  part  of  Ohio  and  Indiana,  to  Chicago 
and  vicinity,  or  to  Michigan  or  Green  Bay,  his  course  should  be  by  the  New-York 
canal,  and  the  lakes.  The  following  table,  showing  the  time  of  the  opening  of 
the  canal  at  Albany  and  Buffalo,  and  the  opening  of  the  lake,  from  1827  to  1835J 
is  from  a  report  of  a  committee  at  Buffalo  to  the  common  council  of  that  city.  It 
will  be  of  use  to  those  who  wish  to  take  the  northern  route  in  the  spring. 


¥...,. 

Canal  opened 

Canal  opened 

Lake  Erie  opened 

car. 

at  Buffalo. 

at  Albany. 

at  Buffalo. 

1827 

April  21 

April  21 

April  21 

1828 

1 

1 

1 

1829 

«       25 

29 

May  10 

1830 

15 

20 

April    6 

1831 

16 

16 

May     8 

1832 

18 

25 

April  27 

1833 

22-. 

22 

"       23 

1834 

16 

17 

6 

1835 

15 

15 

May     8 

The  same  route  will  carry  emigrants  to  Cleaveland,  and  by  the  Ohio  canal,  to 
Columbus,  or  to  the  Ohio  river,  at  Portsmouth;  whence,  by  steamboat,  direct  com- 
munications will  offer  to  any  river  port  in  the  Western  States.  From  Buffalo, 
steamboats  run  constantly  (when  the  lake  is  open)  to  Detroit,  stopping  at  Erie, 
Ashtabula,  Cleaveland,  Sandusky,  and  many  other  ports,  whence  stages  run  to 
every  prominent  town.  Transportation  wagons  are  employed  in  forwarding  goods. 


Route  from  Buffalo  to  Detroit,  by  water. 


Miles. 

Dunkirk,  N.  Y.  -    -    -    -  39 

Portland,     "       -    -    -    -  18  57 

Erie,  Pa. 35  92 

Ashtabula.  Ohio,     -    -    -  39  131 

Fairport        "         -  32  163 


Cleaveland,  Ohio,  • 
Sandusky,  "  -  • 
Amherstburg,  U.  C. 
Detroit,  Mich.  -  • 


Miles. 

-  30  193 

-  54  247 

-  52  299 

-  18  317 


From  Detroit  to  Chicago,  Illinois. 


Miles. 

St  Clair  river,  Mich.    -    -  40 

Palmer, 17  57 

FortGratiot,       ....  14  71 

White  Rock,      -    -    -    -  40  111 

Thunder  Island,  -    ...  70  181 

Middle  Island,    -    -    -    -  25  206 

Presque  Isle,      -    -    -    -  65  271 


Miles. 

Mackinaw, 58  329 

Isle  Brule, 75  404 

Fort   Howard,  Wisconsin 

Ter. 100  504 

Milwaukee,  W.  T.  -    -    -  310  814 

Chicago,  111.,      ....    90  904 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS. 


65 


From  Cleveland  to  Portsmouth,  via  the  Ohio  Canal. 


Miles. 
22 


Cuyahoga  aqueduct,     • 

Old  Portage,      -    -    -     -    12      34 

Akron,       ------ 

New  Portage,    -    -    -    - 


Massillon, 
Bethlehem, 
Bolivar,     - 


4 
5 
11 
11 
6 
8 


New  Philadelphia,  -    -    -      4 
Newcomers'town,    -    -    - 
Coshocton,     ----- 


38 

49 

54 
66 
71 
79 
82 
89 
93 

22    115 
17    132 


Irville,      ...... 

Newark,  ------ 

Hebron,    ------ 

Licking  Summit,    -    -    - 
Lancaster  Canaan,  -    -    - 
Columbus,  side-cut,      -    - 
Bloomfield,    -    .... 

Circleville,    ..... 

Chillicothe,    -    -    -   \    - 
Piketon,    ...... 

Lucasville,    -    -    -    -    - 

Portsmouth,  (Ohio  river,) 


Miles. 

26  158 

13  171 

10  181 
5  186 

11  197 
18  215 

8  223 

9  232 
23  255 
25  280 

14  294 
13  307 


The  most  expeditious,  pleasant,  and  direct  route  for  travellers  to  the  southern 
parts  of  Ohio  and  Indiana;  to  the  Illinois  river,  as  far  north  as  Peoria;  to  the 
Upper  Mississippi  as  far  as  Quincy,  Rock  Island,  Gai«na'and  Prairie  du  Chien ;  to 
Missouri,  and  to  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  Arkansas,  Natchez  and  New-Orleans,  is  one 
of  the  southern  routes.  These  are, — 1.  From  Philadelphia  to  Pittsburgh,  by  rail- 
roads and  the  Pennsylvania  canal;  2.  By  the  Baltiml  ••  1  Ohio  rail-road  and 
stages,  to  Wheeling;  or,  3.  For  people  living  to  the  south  of  Washington,  by 
stage,  by  the  way  of  Charlottesville,  (Virginia,)  Staunton,  the  Hot,  Warm,  and 
White-Sulphur  Springs,  Lewisburg,  Charleston,  to  Guyandotte,  whence  a  regular 
line  of  steamboats  runs  three  times  a  week  to  Cincinnati.  Intermediate  routes 
from  Washington  city  to  Wheeling,  or  to  Harper's  Ferry,  to  Fredericksburg,  and 
intersect  the  route  through  Virginia,  at  Charlottesville. 

From  Philadelphia  to  Pittsburgh,  by  the  rail-road  and  canal. 


Columbia,  on  the  Susque- 
hanna  river,  by  rail-road, 
daily,    ------ 

By  canal  packets  to 
Bainbridge,    -    -    -    -    - 

Middletown,  -    -    -    -    - 

Harrisburg,    -    -    -    -    - 

Juniata  river,     .... 

Millerstown,  -    -    -    -    - 

Mifflin, 

Lewistown,    -    -    -    -    - 
Waynesburg, 
Hamiltonville, 
Huntingdon,  - 


Miles. 


81 

11  92 

17  109 

10  119 

15  144 

-  -    -    17  151 

-  -    -    17  168 

-  -    -    13  181 

-  -    .    14  195 

-  -    -    11  206 

-  -    -      7  213 


Miles. 

Petersburg, 8  221 

Alexandria, 23  244 

Frankstown  and  Hollidays- 

burg, 3  247 

Thence,  by  rail-road,  across 
the  mountain,  to 

Johnstown 38  285 

By  canal,  to 

35  320 

18  338 

Warren, 12  350 

Allegheny  river,     ...  16  366 

Pittsburgh,    -    -    -    -    -  28  394 


The  Pioneer  line,  on  this  route,  is  exclusively  for  passengers,  and  professes  to 
reach  Pittsburgh  in  four  days,  but  is  sometimes  behind,  several  hours.  Fare  through, 
$10.  Passengers  pay  for  meals. 

The  Good  Intent  line  is  also  for  passengers  only,  and  runs  in  competition  with 
the  Pioneer  line. 

Leech's  line,  called  the  "Western  Transportation  line,"  takes  both  freight  and 
passengers.  The  packet-boats  advertise  to  go  through,  to  Pittsburg,  in  five  days, 
for  $7.  Midship  and  steerage  passengers  in  the  transportation  line,  in  six  and  a 
half  days  ;  —  merchandise  delivered  in  eight  days.  Generally,  however,  there  is 
some  delay.  Emigrants  must  not  expect  to  carry  more  than  a  small  trunk  or  two, 
on  the  packet-lines.  Those  who  take  goods  or  furniture,  and  wish  to  keep  with  it, 


I 


6 


66                                              GENERAL  VIEW  OF 

had  better  take  the  transportation  lines,  w 
board  the  boats  is  about  thirty-seven  and 
In  all  the  steamboats  on  the  western 
cabin  passengers  for  meals  ;  —  and  the  tab 
order  is  observed,  and  the  waiters  and  off 

Steamboat  route  from  Pittsbi 
Miles. 

Middletown,  Pa.     -    -    -             11 
Economy,       "   -    -    -    -      8      19 
Beaver,          «   -    -    -    -    10      29 
Georgetown,  «   -    -    -    -    13      42 
Steubenville,  Ohio,      -    -    27      69 
Wellsburgh,  Va.     -    -    -      7      76 
Warren,  Ohio,  -    -    -    -      6      82 
Wheeling,  Va.  -    -    -    -    10      92 
Elizabethtown,  Va.  -    -    -    11     103 
Sistersville         "    -    -    -    34    137 
Newport,  Ohio,  -    -    -    -    27    164 
Marietta,     "      -    -    -    -    14    178 
Parkersburg,  Va.     -    -    -    11     189 
Belpre  and  Blannerhasset's  « 
Island,  O.,       -    -    -    -      4    193 
Troy,  Ohio,  -    -    -    -|t-    10    203 
Belleville,  Va.    -    -  ^»      7    210 
Letart's  Rapids,  Va.     -    -    37    247 
Point  Pleasant,     "       -    -    27    274 
Galhpolis,  Ohio,      -     -    -      4    278 
Guyandotte,  Va.     -    -    -  ,  27    305 
Burlington,  Ohio,    -    -    -    10    315 
Greensburg,  Ky.     -    -    -    19    334 
Concord,  Ohio,  -    -    -    -    12    346 
Portsmouth  (Ohio  canal),        7    353 
Vanceburg,  Ky.       -    -  •-    20    373 
Manchester,  Ohio,  -    -    -    16    389 
Maysville,  Ky.  -    -  _-    -    11    400 
Charleston,"      -••-    -    -      4    404 
Ripley,  Ohio,      ...    -      6    410 
Augusta,  Ky.      -    -    -    -      8    418 
Neville,  Ohio,    ....      7    425 
Moscow,    "        ....      7    432 
Point  Pleasant,  Ohio,  -    -      4    436 
New  Richmond,   "      -    -      7    443 
Columbia,             "      -    -    15    458 
Fulton,                 "      -    -      6    564 
CINCINNATI,           "      -    -      2    466 
North  Bend,          "      -    -    15    481 
Lawrenceburg,  Ind.,  and 
mouth  of  the  Miami,    -      8    489 

Persons  who  wish  to  visit  Indianapolis 
the  stage  conveyance.     From  .Louisville, 
stage,  every  alternate  day,  273  miles,  tl 
seventeen  dollars.     Stages  run  from  Vii 
up  the  Wabash  river.     At  Evansville, 
Vincennes  and  Terre  Haute  ;  and  at  Sh 
nois,  where  it  intersects  the  line  from  Lc 
Nashville  by  steamboats,  passengers  land 
river,  unless  they  embark  direct  for  JN 

ith  more  delay.     The  price  of  meals  on 
i  half  cents, 
waters,  no  additional  charge  is  made  to 
es  are  usually  profusely  supplied.    Strict 
cers  are  attentive. 

irg  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio. 
Miles. 

Petersburg,  Ky.      ...      2  -  493 
Bellevue,      "         -    -    -      8    501 
Rising  Sun,  Ind.      -    -    -      2    503 
Fredericksburg,  Ky,    -    -    18    521 
Vevay,  Ind.,  and  Ghent,  Ky.  11     532 
Port  William,  Ky.  ---    -      8    540 
Madison,  Ind.     -    -    -    -    15    555 
New  London,  Ind.  -    -    -    12    567 
Bethlehem,       «     -    -    -      8    575 
Westport,  Ky     -    -    -    -      7    582 

Transylvania,  Ky.  -    -    -    15    595 
LOUISVILLE,     "      -    -    -    12    609 

Shippingport,  through  the 

ranal                                               21  fill  i 

New  Albany,  Ind.  -    -    -      l|  613 
Salt  River,  Ky.  -    -    -    -    23    636 
Northampton,  Ind.  -    -    -    18    654 
Leavenworth,   "     »    -    -    17    671 
Fredonia,          «...      2    673 
Rome,               "     ---    32    705 
Troy,                "     .--    25    730 
Rockport,          "---    16    746 
Owenburg,  Ky.       ...     12    758 
Evansville,  Ind.      -    -    -    36    794 
Henderson,  Ky.  -    -    -    -     12    806 
Mount  Vernon,  Ind.     -    -    28    834 
Carthage,  Ky.    -    -    -    -     12    846 
Wabash  river,  Ky.  -    -    -      7    853 
Shawneetown,  111.   -    -    -    11     864 
Mouth  of  Saline,  111.    -    -    12    876 
Cave  in  Rock,       "      -    -    10    886 
Golconda,              "      -    -    19    905 
Smithland,  mouth  of  the 
Cumberland  river,  Ky.  -    10    915 
Paducah,  mouth  of  the 
Tennessee  river,  Ky.    -    13    928 
Caledonia,  111.     -    -    -    -    31     959 
Trinity,  mouth  of  Cash 

rivpr    Til                                           1(1      OfiQ 

MOUTH  OF  THE  OHIO  RIVER,  6    975 

will  stop  at  Madison,  Indiana,  and  take 
by  the  way  of  Vincennes,  to  St  Louis  by 
irough  in  three  days  and  a  half.     Fare, 
icennes  to  Terre  Haute  and  other  towns 
[ndiana,  stage  lines  are  connected  with 
iwneetovvn  twice  a  week  to  Carlyle,  Illi- 
misville  to  St.  Louis.     From  Louisville  to 
at  Smithland  at  the  mouth  of  Cumberland 
ashville.     In  the  winter,  both  stage  and 

THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS. 


G7 


steamboat  lines  are  uncertain  and  irregular.  Ice  in  the  rivers  frequently  obstructs 
navigation,  and  high  waters  and  bad  roads  sometimes  prevent  stages  from  running 
regularly. 

Farmers  who  remove  to  the  west  from  the  northern  and  middle  states,  will  find 
it  advantageous,  in  many  instances,  to  remove- with  their  own  teams  and  wagons. 
These  they  will  need  upon  their  arrival.  Autumn,  or  from  September  till  Novem- 
ber, is  the  favourable  season  for  this  mode  of  emigration.  The  roads  are  then  in 
good  order,  the  weather  usually  favourable,  and  feed  plenty.  People  of  all  classes, 
from  the  states  south  of  the  Ohio  river,  remove  with  large  wagons,  carry  and  cook 
their  own  provisions,  purchase  their  feed  by  the  bushel,  and  invariably  encamp  out 
at  night. 

Individuals  who  wish  to  travel  through  the  interior  of  Michigan,  Indiana,  Illinois, 
Missouri,  &c.,  will  find  that  the  most  convenient,  sure,  economical,  and  independ- 
ent mode,  is  on  horseback.  Their  expenses  will  be  from  seventy-five  cents  to  one 
dollar  fifty  cents  per  day,  and  they  can  always  consult  their  own  convenience  and 
pleasure,  as  to  time  and  place. 

Stage  fere  is  usually  6  cts.  a  mile,  in  the  west    Meals,  at  stage-houses,  37^  cts. 

Steamboat  Fare,  including  Meals. 

From  Pitteburg  to  Cincinnati, $10 

"     Cincinnati  to  Louisville,      .------------        4 

"     Louisville  to  St.  Louis,   --------------      12 

And  frequently  the  same  from  Cincinnati  to  St  Louis, — varying  a  little,  however. 

A  deck  passage,  as  it  is  called,  may  be  rated  as  follows : — 

From  Pittsburg  to  Cincinnati,    ---------.-.-.$3 

"     Cincinnati  to  Louisville,  --------------      1  ^ 

"     Louisville  to  St  Louis,     --------------      4* 

The  deck  for  such  passengers  is  usually  in  the  midship,  forward  of  the  engine, 
and  is  protected  from  the  weather.  Passengers  furnish  their  own  provisions  and 
bedding.  They  often  take  their  meals  at  the  cabin-table,  with  the  boat  hands,  and 
pay  twenty-five  cents  a  meal.  Thousands  pass  up  and  down  the  rivers  as  deck 
passengers,  especially  emigrating  families,  who  have  their  bedding,  provisions,  and 
cooking  utensils,  on  board. 

The  whole  expense  of  a  single  person  from  New-York  to  St  Louis,  by  the  way 
of  Philadelphia  and  Pittsburg,  with  cabin  passage  on  the  river,  will  range  between 
$40  and  $45; — time,  from  twelve  to  fifteen  days.  Taking  the  transportation  lines 
on  the  Pennsylvania  canal,  and  a  deck  passage  in  the  steamboat,  and  the  expenses 
will  range  between  $20  and  $25,  supposing  the  person  buys  his  meals  at  twenty- 
five  cents,  and  eats  twice  a  day.  If  he  carry  his  own  provisions,  the  passage,  &c. 
will  be  from  $15  to  $18. 

The  following  is  from  an  advertisement  of  the  Western  Transportation,  or  Leech's 
line,  from  Philadelphia : — 

Miles.  Days.  Fare. 

Fare  to  Pittsburg, 400----      6£    -    -    -  -  $6  00 

"        Cincinnati,     ----      900----      8A----850 

"        Louisville,      -    -    -    -    1050    -    -    -    -      9$    ...  -  9  00 

Nashville,      -    -    -    -    1650    -    -    -    -  13|    -    -    -  -  13  00 

"        St.  Louis, 1750    -    -    -    -  14      -    -    -  -  13  00 

The  above  does  not  include  meals. 

Packet-boats  for  Cabin  Passengers  (same  line). 

Miles.  Days.  Fare. 

Fare  to  Pittsburg, 400  -    -    -    -  5      -    -  -  -  $7  00 

Cincinnati,     -    -    -    -      900  -    -    -    -  8      -    -  -  -  17  00 

"        Louisville,      -    -    -    -     1050  -    -    -    -  9      ....  19  00 

Nashville,      -    -    -    -    1&50  -    -    -    -  13      -    -  -  -  27  00 

St.  Louis, 1750  ....  13      -    -  -  -  27  00 


68  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


Emigrants  and  travellers  will  find  it  to  their  interest  always  to  be  a  little  scep- 
tical relative  to  statements  of  stage,  steamboat,  and  canal-boat  agents ;  to  make 
some  allowance  in  their  own  calculations  for  delays,  difficulties,  and  expenses;  and 
above  all,  to  feel  perfectly  patient  and  in  good  humour  with  themselves,  the  offi- 
cers, company,  and  the  world,  even  if  they  do  not  move  quite  as  rapidly,  and  fare 
quite  as  well,  as  they  desire. 

LOCATION,  METHOD  OF  FARMING,  BUILDING,  &c. 

Upon  emigrating  to  this  country,  it  would  be  well  for  an  eastern  farmer  to  throw 
off  and  forget  many  of  his  former  habits  and  practices,  and  be  prepared  to  accom- 
modate himself  to  the  nature  of  the  soil,  and  the  circumstances  of  the  country ; 
else  he  will  throw  away  much  labour  uselessly,  and  expend  money  unprofitably. 
The  first  object  is  to  find  a  suitable  situation;  or,  in  the  language  of  the  country, 
to  locate  himself.  An  entire  stranger  can  hardly  be  expected  to  judge  correctly 
in  relation  to  soil,  and  the  advantages  and  disadvantages  of  location.  If  he  arrives 
in  the  dry  season  of  autumn,  he  will  be  likely  to  select  a  level  spot  of  prairie, 
with  a  deep  black  soil,  determined  to  have  rich  land  at  any  rate,  and  perhaps  in 
the  spring  find  himself  ploughing  in  mud  and  water.  If  he  looks  at  the  appear- 
ance of  the  timber,  he  will  probably  be  deceived,  and  overlook  some  of  the  best 
tracts.  Advice  from  those  who  have  long  been  residents  in  the  country,  would 
save  many  inconveniences  in  location. 

No  emigrant  need  deceive  himself  with  the  notion  that  he  can  find  a  spot  which 
will  combine  all  the  advantages,  and  none  of  the  disadvantages,  of  the  country. 
On  every  spot  he  examines,  some  indispensable  thing  will  appear  to  be  wanting. 
Nor  is  it  of  any  use  for  a  man  to  travel  the  country  to  any  great  extent,  to  find  as 
many  natural  advantages  as  may  satisfy  moderate  desires.  The  best  policy  for  an 
emigrant,  after  arriving  in  the  Western  Country,  and  fixing  upon  the  district  or 
county  in  which  he  intends  to  reside,  is  to  settle  himself  on  the  first  spot  he  finds 
that  he  thinks  may  answer  hispurpose,  and  resolve  to  abide  there  contentedly. 

Let  an  emigrant  purchase  mwnore  cattle,  Jiorses,  hogs,  &c.,  than  those  for  which 
he  has  immediate  use,  unless.  iWs  for  breeders,  and  calves,  in  the  fall,  at  eight  or 
nine  months  old  :  these  are  profitable  stock  to  purchase.  If  an  emigrant  locate  on 
the  frontiers,  or  in  the  newly  settled  portions  of  the  country,  his  first  object  will 
be  to  provide  cabins  for  his  family ;  and  the  less  labour  and  expense  in  preparing 
these,  the  better.  Let  a  man  and  family  go  into  any  of  the  frontier  settlements, 
get  a  shelter,  or  even  encamp  out,  call  upon  the  people  to  aid  him,  and  in  three 
days  from  the  start  he  will  have  a  comfortable  cabin,  and  become  identified  as  a 
settler.  No  matter  how  poor  he  may  be,  or  how  much  an  entire  stranger,  if  he 
makes  no  apologies,  does  not  show  a  niggardly  spirit  by  contending  about  trifles, 
and  especially  if  he  does  not  begin  to  dole  out  complaints  about  the  country,  and 
the  manners  and  habits  of  the  people,  and  tell  them  the  difference  and  superiority 
of  these  things  in  the  place  whence  he  came,  he  will  be  received  with  blunt  frank- 
ness and  unaffected  hospitality.  But  if  a  man  begins  by  affecting  superior  intelli- 
gence and  virtue,  and  catechizing  the  people  for  their  habits  of  plainness  and  sim- 
plicity, and  their  apparent  want  of  those  things  which  he  imagines  indispensable 
to  comfort,  he  may  expect  to  be  marked,  shunned,  and  called  in  the  way  of  sarcas- 
tic reproach,  a  Yankee. 

A  principal  characteristic  of  the  western  population  is  a  blunt,  unaffected  hospi- 
tality. They  will  make  every  stranger  welcome,  provided  he  will  accept  of  it  in 
their  own  way.  But  he  must  make  no  complaints,  throw  out  no  insinuations,  and 
manifest  an  equal  readiness  to  be  fmnk  and  hospitable  in  turn.  Enter  whatever 
house  or  cabin  you  may,  if  it  is  the  time  of  meals,  you  are  invited  to  share  a  por- 
tion ;  but  you  must  eat  what  is  set  before  you,  asking  no  questions,  and  making  no 
invidious  comparisons.  Nor  must  you  offer  remarks  on  the  accommodations  you 
have  had,  or  the  unpleasant  things  you  may  have  encountered  at  other  places  where 
you  have  tarried  ;  as  such  remarks  are  considered  as  reflections  upon  the  people, 
and  those  by  whom  you  are  now  hospitably  entertained  will  infer  that  you  will 
thus  slander  them  when  you  have  departed. 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  69 


When  an  emigrant  has  fixed  his  location,  he  next  selects  his  building  spot. 
Much  will  depend  upon  a  judicious  choice,  in  regard  to  health.  An  elevated  spot 
of  ground,  remote  from  lakes  and  marshes,  and  where  the  air  circulates  freely  from 
all  points  of  the  compass,  is  desirable.  If  a  river  bottom  is  chosen,  the  house  should 
be  as  near  the  stream,  on  the  highest  ground,  as  is  possible,  without  risk  from  the 
washing  in  of  the  banks.  Settlements  directly  on  the  margins  of  the  Mississippi 
and  Missouri  are  healthy,  compared  with  situations  a  few  hundred  yards  distance, 
in  the  interior  of  the  bottom.  Where  all  other  circumstances  a,revequal,  the  south 
or  south-west  side  of  the  timber  is  the  most  desirable,  as  tlirouftfe^t  the  heat  of 
summer  the  winds  are  usually  from  the  south-west  and  west,  andfhe  timber  affords 
protection  from  the  cold  north-winds  of  winter.  But  an  exposure  ro  the  north  or 
north-west  is  far  less  disagreeable  than  would  be  imagined.  In  a  very  few  years, 
by  means  of  orchards  and  shade  trees,  sufficient  protection  can  be  had. 

All  confined  places  should  be  avoided,  such  as  ravines,  and  even  coves,  or  points 
of  prairie  surrounded  by  dense  timber,  unless  an  opening  can  be  mfede  immediately. 
The  currents  in  the  atmosphere  appear  to  act  on  the  same  principles  as  currents  in 
the  water.  Where  eddies  and  counter-currents  are  formed,  there  impure  vapour 
will  concentrate.  This  is  not  only  true  in  theory,  but  holds  good  in  practical  ob- 
servation. When  sickness  prevails  in  a  family,  or  a  little  settlement,  the  intelli- 
gent and  observing  physician  immediately  looks  about  for  the  cause ;  and  if  he  de- 
tects nothing  in  the  immediate  vicinity  to  generate  miasmata,  he  will  probably  dis- 
cover circumstances  that  cause  an  eddy  or  a  current  of  impure  air,  around  the 
dwelling.  The  remark  has  been  .made  by  observant  physicians,  that  severe  sick- 
ness has  prevailed  in  a  family  located  at  the  head  of  a  small  ravine,  while  other 
families  at  a  few  rods'  distance  have  entirely  escaped.  Physicians  and  philosophers 
have  not  yet  determined  the  nature  of  that  miasma  which  invariably  produces  yel- 
low, bilious,  intermittent,  and  other  summer  and  autumnal  fevers ;  but  if  it  is  a 
species  of  carbonic  gas,  as  some  think,  it  is  heavier  than  the  surrounding  atmo- 
sphere, is  more  dense  on  low  grounds  and  bottoms,  and  in  ravines,  and  naturally 
concentrates  in  confined  places.  Bat  whatever  may  be  its  nature  as  a  remote  cause 
of  disease,  it  is  enough  for  practical  purposes  to  know,  that  any  spot  where  the  air 
is  confined,  as  a  cove  in  the  timber  or  bluff,  or  where  it  is  forced  through  a  passage, 
as  the  head  of  a  ravine,  is  always  less  healthy  than  a  spot  freely  ventilated  or  on 
elevated  ground. 

Having  fixed  on  the  spot,  the  next  step  is  to  provide  cabirts  or  temporary  build- 
ings. These,  and  all  other  dwellings,  should  be  so  arranged  as  to  promote  venti- 
lation in  the  summer.  The  door  and  other  apertures  should  be  opposite  each  other, 
the  chimney  at  the  end ;  and  if  a  double  cabin  or  one  of  two  rooms  is  designed,  a 
space  of  10  or  12  feet  between  them  should  be  left,  and  roofed  over.  Forks  may 
be  set  in  the  ground,  and  porches  or  sheds  may  be  made  on  the  sides,  eight  feet  in 
width.  The  cost  is  trifling,  and  they  add  greatly  to  the  coolness  of  the  dwelling 
in  summer,  and  its  warmth  in  winter,  besides  protecting  the  body  of  the  house 
from  rains.  Hundreds  of  cabins  are  made  without  a  nail  or  particle  of  iron  about 
them,  or  a  single  piece  of  sawed  plank. 

The  first  buildings  put  up  are  cabins  made  of  logs,  which  are  constructed  after 
the  following  manner :  Straight  trees  are  felled  of  a  size  that  a  common  team  can 
draw,  or,  as  the  phrase  is,  'snake'  them  to  the  intended  spot.  The  common  form 
of  a  large  cabin  is  that  called  a  '  double  cabin ;'  that  is,  two  square  pens,  with  an 
open  space  between,  connected  by  a  roof  above  and  a  floor  below,  so  as  to  form  a 
parallelogram  of  nearly  triple  the  length  of  its  depth.  In  the  open  space  the  fami- 
ly take  their  meals,  during  the  pleasant  weather ;  and  it  serves  the  threefold  pur- 
pose of  kitchen,  lumber-room,  and  dining-room.  The  logs  of  which  it  is  composed 
are  notched  on  to  one  another  in  the  form  of  a  square.  The  roof  is  covered  with 
thin  splits  of  oak,  not  unlike  staves.  Sometimes  they  are  made  of  ash,  and  in  the 
lower  country,  of  cypress ;  and  they  are  called  clapboards.  Instead  of  being 
nailed,  they  are  generally  confined  in  their  place  by  heavy  timber,  laid  at  right 
angles  across  them.  This  gives  the  roof  of  a  cabin  a  unique  and  shaggy  appear- 
ance ;  but  if  the  clapboards  have  been  carefully  prepared  from  good  timber,  they 
form  a  roof  sufficiently  impervious  to  common  rains.  The  floors  are  made  from 


70  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 


short  and  thick  plank,  split  from  the  yellow  poplar,  cottonwood,  black  walnut,  and 
sometimes  oak.  They  are  confined  with  wooden  pins,  and  are  technically  called 
'puncheons.'  If  an  emigrant  can  furnish  a  few  pounds  of  nails,  and  a  dozen  panes 
of  glass,  he  may  add  to  his  comforts ;  and  if  a  saw-mill  is  near,  and  plank  or  boards 
cheap,  he  may  save  himself  the  labour  of  splitting  puncheons  or  slabs  for  floors 
and  doors.  In  addition  to  the  cabin,  he  will  need  a  meat-house,  a  corn-crib,  and 
stables,  all  built  of  Idgs  in  the  same  rough  manner.  If  an  emigrant  has  plenty  of 
money,  and  sawe4  lumber  can  be  gotten  conveniently,  he  may  put  up  a  frame  barn 
as  soon  as  he  pleases.  If  he  has  not  the  advantage  of  a  good  spring,  he  should  dig 
a  well  immediately,  which  will  cost  four  or  five  days'  labour,  and  will  stand  some 
time  without  wulling.  In  making  all  these  improvements,  all  cash  expenses  should 
be  avoided  as  much  as  possible,  unless  a  man  has  money  to  spend  freely.  The  next 
step  is  to  prepare  a  farm.  If  the  settler  locate  himself  in  barrens,  or  in  timbered 
land,  he  has  to  grub  out  the  small'' growth,  preparatory  to  ploughing ;  that  is,  dig 
them  up  by  the  roots  with  an  instrument  called  a  mattock.  It  is  true,  that  land 
covered  with  bushes  can  be  ploughed,  and  the  stumps  left  in  the  ground,  HS  well 
or  better  than  in  the  north ;  but  it  will  require  more  labour  in  the  end  to  subdue 
the  sprouts  that  will  strive  for  the  mastery,  than  to  clear  the  land  at  once.  It  usu- 
ally requires  from  three  to  six  days'  labour  to  grub  an  acre.  .The  small  growth  in 
timbered  lands  is  taken  out  ii^  the  same  manner/  If  a  settler  has  located  himself 
in  a  timbered  tract,  which  in  this  prairie  country  is  wretched  policy,  he  grubs  up 
the  small  growth,  girdles  th&  trees,  and  puts  in  the  plough. 

Prairie  land  requires  a  strong  team,  and  a  large  plough  kept  very  sharp,  to  break 
it  up  thoroughly.  "'This  must  be  done  well,  and  every  particle  of  the  sward  turned 
over ;  or  it  had  better  be  let  alone. 

Farms  somewhat  improved  are  almost  daily  exchanging  owners,  and  a  consider- 
able spirit  of  enterprize  has  been  Wakened  within  a  year  or  two  past.  The  prices 
of  farms  and  improvements  vary  greatly,  and  are  influenced  much  by  factitious  and 
local  circumstances.  From  St  Glair  county  ,j}orth ward,  they  average  probably 
from  five  to  ten  dollars  per  acre,  arid  arer  rising- in  value.  In  some  counties,  farms 
will  cost  from  two  to  five  dollars  per  acre".  A  farm  in  Illinois,  however,  means  a 
tract  of  land ;  much  of  it  is  in  a  state  of  nature,  with  some  cheap  and  frequently 
log  buildings,  with  20, 40,  60,  80,  of  100  acres,  fenced  and  cultivated.  Good  dwell- 
ings of  brick,  stone,  or  wood,  begin  to  be  erected.  Amongst  the  older  residents 
there  have  been  but  few  barns  made. 

The  want  of  adequate  supplies  of  lumber,  and  of  mechanics,  renders  good  build- 
ings more  expensive  than  in  the  country  parts  of  New-England  or  New- York. 

Merchants'  goods,  groceries,  household-furniture,  and  almost  every  necessary 
and  comfort  in  housekeeping,  can  be  purchased  here ;  and  many  articles  retail  at 
about  the  same  prices  as  in  the  Atlantic  States. 

The  following  table  will  exhibit  the  cost  of  320  acres  of  land,  at  Congress  price, 
and  preparing  160  acres  for  cultivation  or  prairie  land : 

Cost  of  320  acres,  at  $1,25  per  acre,    - $400 

Breaking  up  160  acres  prairie,  at  $2  per  acre,    --------      320 

Fencing  into  four  fields,  with  a  Kentucky  fence  of  eight  rails  'high, 

with  cross  stakes,     -     -     -------------      175 

Add  cost  of  cabins,  corn-cribs,  stable,  &c.     -     --------      250 

Making  the  cost  of  the  farm,     -------------    $1145 

In  many  instances,  a  single  crop  of  wheat  will  pay  for  the  land,  for  fencing, 
i  breaking  up,  cultivating,  harvesting,  threshing,  and  taking  to  market.     All  kinds 
of  mechanical  labour,  especially  those  in  the  building  line,  are  in  great  demand ; 
and  workmen,  even  very  coarse  and  common  workmen,  get  almost  any  price  they 
ask.     Journeymen  mechanics  get  two  dollars  per  day.    A  carpenter,  bricklayer,  or 
mason,  wants  no  other  capital  to  do  a  first-rate  business,  and  soon  become  indepen- 
dent, than  a  set  of  tools,  and  habits  of  industry,  sobriety,  economy,  and  enterprize. 
Common  labourers  on  the  farm  obtain  from  twelve  to  fifteen  dollars  per  month, 
including  board.     Any  young  man,  with  industrious  habits,  can  begin  here  with- 
out a  dollar,  and  in  a  very  few  years  become  a  substantial  farmer.     A  good  cradler 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS.  71 


in  the  harvest-field  will  earn  from  one  dollar  and   a   half  to  two  dollars  per 
day. 

The  most  affectionate  counsel  (says  Mr.  Flint)  we  would  give  an  immigrant,  after 
an  acquaintance  with  all  the  districts  of  the  Western  Country  of  sixteen  years, 
is  to  regard  the  salubrity  of  the  spot  selected,  as  a  consideration  of  more  impor- 
tance than  its  fertility,  or  vicinity  to  a  market;  to  supply  himself  with  a  good 
manual  of  domestic  medicine,  if  such  a  manual  is  to  be  found  ;  still  more,  to  obtain 
simple  and  precise  notions  of  the  more  obvious  aspects  of  disease?,— an  acquisition 
worth  a  hundred  times  its  cost;  and,  more  than  all  to  a  backwoodsman,  to  have  a 
lancet  and  sufficient  experience  and  firmness  of  hand  to  open  a  vein ;  to  have  a 
small  but  well-labelled  and  well-supplied  medicine-chest ;  and  to  be,  after  all,  very 
cautious  about  either  taking  or  administering  its  contents,  reserving  them  for 
emergencies,  and  for  a  choice  of  evils ;  to  depend  for  health,  on  temperance,  mode- 
ration in  all  things,  a  careful  conformity  in  food  and  dress  to  circumstances  and  the 
climate,  and  particularly  let  him  observe  a  rigid  and  undeviating  abstinence  from 
that  loathsome  and  murderous  western  poison,  whiskey,  which  may  be  pronounced 
the  prevalent  miasm  of  the  country.  Let  every  immigrant  learn  the  mystery  and 
provide  the  materials  to  make  good  beer.  Let  him  also,  during  the  season  of  ac- 
climation, especially  in  the  sultry  months,  take  medicine  by  way  of  prevention, 
twice  or  thsice,  with  abstinence  from  labour  a  day  or  two  afterwards.  Let  him 
have  a  Bible  for  a  constant  counsellor,  and  a  few"  good  books  for  instruction  and 
amusement.  Let  him  have  the  dignity  and  good  sense  to  train  his  family  religious- 
ly, and  not  to  be  blown  about  by  every  wind  of  doctrine  in  religion,  politics,  or 
opinions.  Let  his  rifle  rust,  and  let  the  game,  unless  it  come  into  his  field,  live 
on.  Let  him  cultivate  a  garden  of  choice  fruit,  as  well  as  a  fine  orchard.  Let 
him  keep  bees,  for  their  management  unites  pleasure  and  profit.  Let  him  prepare 
for  silk-making  on  a  small  and  gradual  scale.  X«et  him  cultivate  grapes  by  way 
of  experiment.  Let  him  banish  unreal  wrfts,  and  learn  the  master  secret  of 
self-possession,  and  be  content  with  such  things  as  he  has,  aware  that  every  posi- 
tion in  life  has  advantages  and  trials:  •  Let  him  assure  himself  that  if  an  indepen- 
dent farmer  cannot  be  happy,  no  man  can.  Let  him  magnify  his  calling,  respect 
himself,  envy  no  one,  and  raise  to  the  Author  of  all  good  constant  aspirations  of 
thankfulness  as  he  eats  the  bread  of  peace  and  privacy." 

HISTORY. 

% 

The  name  which  now  belongs  exclusively  to  this  state  was,  during  a  great  part 
of  the  last  century,  bestowed  upon  all  that  vast  tract  of  country  which  lies  north 
and  west  of  the  Ohio,  and  was  derived  from  the  Illini  or  Illinois,  a  tribe  which 
appears  to  have  possessed  the  country  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Illinois  river. 
They  were  noted  for  their  hospitality,  generosity,  and  kind  treatment  of  strangers. 
The  name  is  said  by  Hennepin  to  signify  a  full-grown  man.  The  first  settlements 
within  the  present  limits  of  Illinois,  were,  like  those  of  Indiana,  made  by  the 
French,  and  were  the  consequence  of  the  adventurous  enterprize  of  M.  De  la 
Salle,  in  search  of  the  Mississippi.  This  traveller  set  out  from  Canada,  in  the 
year  1670,  in  company  with  Father  Hennepin  and  a  few  followers,  and,  passing  up 
the  lakes  to  the  head  of  Lake  Michigan,  descended  the  Illinois  river.  After  re- 
maining some  time,  he  returned  to  Canada;  from  whence  he  set  out  with  a  num- 
ber of  volunteers  in  1673,  for  Illinois,  and  shortly  afterwards  founded  the  settle- 
ments of  Kaskaskia  and  Cahobia.  Here  La  Salle  left  his  colony,  and  descended 
the  Mississippi  to'  its  mouth.  At  the  commencement  of  the  eighteenth  century, 
the  settlements  in  Illinois  are  represented  to  have  been  in  a  flourishing  situation. 
The  descriptions  given  by  French  writers  of  the  country  at  this  time,  were  of  the 
most  captivating  kind ;  its  beautiful  scenery,  fertile  prairies,  and  supposed  mineral 
wealth,  were  painted  in  glowing  colours,  and  a  new  paradise  seemed  to  open  to 
Frenchmen  on  the  banks  of  the  Illinois. 

At  the  termination  of  hostilities  between  the  French  and  English,  in  1763,  the 
Illinois  country,  with  Canada,  was  ceded  to  the  British  government :  and  in  1765, 
Capt.  Sterling,  of  the  royal  Highlanders,  took  possession  of  Illinois.  He  was  sue- 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS. 


needed  by  Major  Farmer,  who  was  relieved  by  Col.  Reed  in  1766.     The  principal 
military  post  and  seat  of  government  during  these  changes,  was  at  fort  Chartres. 

The  administration  of  Col.  Reed  was  extremely  unpopular  with  the  inhabitants, 
md  is  said  to  have  been  a  course  of  military  oppression.  In  1768  he  was  succeed- 
ed by  Lieut.  Col.  Wilkins,  who  established  a  court  of  justice  amongst  the  people, 
ind  appointed  seven  judges  to  settle  all  matters  relative  to  debts  and  property. 

During  the  revolutionary  war,  the  Virginia  militia,  under  command  of  General 
eorge  Rodgers  Clarke,  made  an  excursion  through  the  Indian  country,  subjugated 
brt  Chartres,  Kaskaskia,  and  other  posts  on  the  Mississippi,  and  then  conducted  a 
successful  expedition  against  Port  Vincent,  now  Vincennes.  This  was  in  1778. 
The  same  year,  the  legislature  of  Virginia  organized  a  county  in  this  remote  re- 
gion, called  '•  Illinois"  and  appointed  a  magistrate  over  it  with  extensive  powers, 
tyled  lieutenant-goveror.  Timothy  Demonbrun  was  appointed  to  this  office. 
This  territory  was  afterwards  ceded  by  Virginia  to  the  United  States,  and  formed 
a  portion  of  the  North-western  Territory,  by  whose  authority  the  county  of  Illinois 
was  divided,  and  the  names  of  St  Clair  and  Randolph  given.  In  1800,  it  was  in- 
cluded within  the  limits  of  Indiana  territory,  and  at  that  time  the  country  that 
forms  the  present  state  of  Illinois  contained  about  3000  inhabitants.  Many  of  the 
officers  and  soldiers  that  accompanied  General  Clarke  in  his  expedition  became 
enamoured  with  the  country,  returned  with  their  families»and  formed  the  early 
American  settlements.  Other  persons  settled  in  Kaskaskia  about  the  same  time 
to  engage  in  the  Indian  trade. 

After  the  year  1800,  the  population  increased  considerably  from  emigration.  In 
1809,  a  territorial  government  was  formed,  and  the  population  the  next  year 
amounted  to  12,282.  During  the  last  war  between  Great  Britain  and  the  United 
States,  Illinois,  in  common  with  other  frontier  districts,  felt  the  calamities  of  war- 
fare. The  defence  of  the  long  line  of  frontier,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri 
across  the  territory  to  ShawneetowA,  depended  upon  the  energy  and  vigilance  of 
the  citizens,  under  the  able  and  indefatigable  governor,  the  late  Ninian  Edwards. 

In  1812,  the  territory,  which  had  been  under  the  government  of  the  governor 
and  judges,  entered  upon  the  second  grade  of  territorial  government,  with  a  legis- 
lature, and  a  delegate  in  Congress.  In  1818,  the  constitution  was  framed,  and 
Illinois  was  received  into  the  Union  as  the  twenty-second  state. 

The  constitution  of  this  state  does  not  admit  involuntary  servitude,  or  the  tenure 
by  which  masters  hold  slaves.  Some  unsuccessful  efforts  were  made  by  the  immi- 
grants from  the  slave-holding  states  to  have  it  amended  to  admit  of  slavery.  The 
question  was  casually  agitated  in  the  papers,  and  a  convention  for  the  purpose  was 
proposed.  But  the  moderation  and  good  sense  of  the  people  allowed  this  irritating 
investigation  to  sleep  undisturbed.  This  great  state,  with  unoccupied  and  fertile 
soil,  to  support  millions  of  agriculturalists  in  affluence,  must  ultimately  become 
populous  and  powerful. 

By  different  treaties  the  Indians  have  ceded  the  whole  of  their  territorial  claim 
to  lands  in  Illinois  to  the  general  government.  The  country  experienced  almost 
entire  freedom  from  their  depredations  after  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain,  until 
1832.  In  that  year  the  savages,  under  their  celebrated  chief,  Black  Hawk,  com- 
mitted many  cruel  murders,  and  for  a  time  excited  considerable  alarm  in  the 
northern  parts  of  the  state ;  but  being  effectually  reduced,  the  remnant  have  been 
since  settled  in  the  country  west  of  the  Mississippi  river,  and  all  apprehensions  of 
danger  from  the  same  cause  in  future  entirely  removed. 


SKETCHES  OF  EACH  COUNTY 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS. 


ADAMS  County  is  bounded  north  by  Hancock,  south  by  Pike,  east  by  Schuyler 
and  Pike  counties,  and  west  by  the  Mississippi  river,  which  forms  its  boundary  for 
about  36  miles :  it  was  organized  from  Pike  county  in  1825,  and  contains  about  800 
square  miles,  or  upwards  of  half  a  million  acres,  and  is  in  length  30  miles,  with 
an  average  breadth  of  about  25. 

This  county  is  well  proportioned  into  prairie  and  timber  land,  and  is  inferior  to 
none  in  the  state  in  the  quality  and  fertility  of  its  soil.  The  population  in  1835 
was  7042,  and  consists  mostly  of  industrious  and  enterprizing  farmers.  Its  streams 
are  Bear  creek  and  branches,  M'Kee's  creek,  Mill,  Fall,  and  Pigeon  creeks. 

Its  county  town  is  Quincy,  situated  on  a  bluff  of  the  Mississippi:  it  is  the  seat 
of  the  land  office  for  the  sale  of  the  public  lands  north  and  east  of  the  Illinois  river, 
and  is  a  place  of  considerable  business.  The  other  places  in  Adams  county  are 
Columbus,  Clayton,  Guilford,  Fairfield,  and  Payson,rwhich  are  all  small  villages. 
The  latter,  about  15  miles  south-east  from  Quincy,  is  a  thriving  place,  surrounded 
by  a  well  settled  country;  it  contains  several  stores,  which  transact  a  considerable 
amount  of  business. 

ALEXANDER  is  the  most  southern  county  in  the  state,  and  comprises  the 
peninsula  situated  between  the  Mississippi  and  Ohio  rivers.  It  is  bounded  north 
by  Union,  and  east  by  Johnson  county,  on  the  west  and  south  by  the  Mississippi, 
and  south-east  by  the  Ohio  river;  it  is  24  miles  long,  with  an  average  width  of  18 
miles;  the  area  is  about  378  square  miles.  This  county  is  generally  well  tim- 
bered, and  its  soil  fertile.  It  is  watered  by  Cash  river,  aWmall  stream  emptying 
into  the  Ohio  river  seven  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi. 

This  county,  although  so  favourably  situated  at  the  junction  of  two  large  and 
important  rivers,  derives  from  this  circumstance  little  or  no  advantage.  Here, 
where  we  should  naturally  expect  to  find  a  large  and  flourishing  town,  the  entrepot 
of  produce  and  merchandise  passing  to  and  from  the  north,  east,  south,  and  west, 
we  have  little  else  than  the  remains  of  a  deserted  warehouse.  It  unfortunately 
happens  that  at,  and  for  a  considerable  distance  above  the  junction  of  these  streams, 
their  banks  are  low,  and  subject  to  annual  inundations;  and  such  is  the  height  to 
which  the  water  rises  on  them,  that  they  could  not,  without  much  expense,  be 
made  safe,  and,  far  less,  comfortable  places  of  residence.  '  The  importance  of  a 
good  town  site  immediately  at  the  junction  of  these  two  streams,  has  for  many 
years  excited  the  attention  of  the  enterprizing ;  and  accordingly  various  plans  have 
been  suggested  to  accomplish  this  object  by  artificial  means,  but  as  yet  without 
success.  The  population  of  this  county  in  1835,  was  2050. 

Its  seat  of  justice  is  Unity,  a  small  place  lately  laid  out  on  Cash  river.  Trinity, 
Caledonia,  and  Napoleon,  are  villages  on  the  Ohio  river. 

BOND  County  is  watered  by  the  Kaskaskia  river  and  its  tributaries.  Its  sur- 
face is  generally  level  or  gently  undulating,  and  duly  proportioned  into  timber  and 
prairie.  This  county  was  taken  from  Madison  in  1817,  and  was  formerly  more 
extensive  than  at  present ;  its  area  is  360  square  miles ;  length  20,  and  breadth  18 
miles :  it  is  watered  by  Shoal  creek  and  its  branches,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north 


74  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


by  Montgomery,  eas^  by  Fayette,  south  by  Clinton,  and  west  by  Madison  county. 
The  population  in  '1835,  was  3580. 

Its  seat  of  justice  is  Greenville,  a  pleasant  village  on  the  east  fork  of  Shoal 
creek:  it  contains  about  200  inhabitants.  It  has  four  stores,  three  taverns,  three 
physicians,  one  lawyer,  and  mechanics  of  various  trades. 

BOONE  is  one  of  the  most  northern  counties  in  the  state.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  nortii  by  .Rock  and  Wai  worth  counties  of  Wisconsin  territory,  south  by  Kane, 
east  by  M'Henry,  and  West  by  Winnebago  county.  It  contains  an  area  of  504 
square  miles,  and  is  in  length  24,  and  in  breadth  21  miles,  and  was  formed  in  1837 
from  portions  of  Winnebago  and  M'Henry  counties,  and  contains  a  population 
estimated  at  600. 

Most  of  the  land  in  this  and  the  adjoining  counties,  is  yet  unsurveyed,  and  of 
course  has  not  been  offered  for  sale  by  the  general  government.  It  is,  notwith- 
standing, rapidly  settling  up  with  an  enterprizing  population.  The  soil  is  fertile, 
and  well  adapted  to  raising  all  the  different  kinds  of  agricultural  produce  common 
to  this  part  of  the  state :  the  surface  is  mostly  a  rich  undulating  prairie,  with  a 
considerable  quantity  of  timber  scattered  over  the  county,  principally  in  groves 
and  oak  openings,  of  which  the  chief  of  the  former  is  Norwegian  Grove.  Boone 
county  is,  for  judicial  purposes,  attached  to  Jo  Daviess.  Its  county  seat  is  not  yet 
laid  off. 

The  only  town  in  the  county  is  Belvidere,  a  small  settlement  on  the  stage  road 
from  Chicago  to  Galena.  It  is  in  the  western  part  of  the  county,  on  Squaw  prairie, 
and  has  a' delightful  appearance.  Near  the  town  site  is  a  mound,  fitly  rods  long 
and  about  thirty  rods  wide,  elevated  seventy  feet  above  the  bottom  lands  of  Rock 
river.  On  the  top  of  this  mound  is  the  cemetery  of  an  Indian  called  Big  Thunder. 
He  died  about  the  period  of  the  Sauk  war  in  1831  or  1832,  and  was  placed  in  a 
sitting  posture  on  a  flag  mat,  wrapped  in  blankets,  his  scalping-knife  by  his  side  to 
cut  the  plugs  of  tobacco  that  are  offered  him.  Over  the  body  is  constructed  a  cof- 
ering  of  wood  and  earth,  with  an  opening  in  front,  where  Big  Thunder  may  be 
seen  sitting,  with  his  tobacco  lying  before  him.  The  Indians  still  visit  the  place 
to  replenish  his  stores  of  tobacco,  whiskey,  &c. 

The  citizens  of  this  region  are  about  to  erect  a  college  edifice  on  this  spot,  in  a 
vault  under  which  the  bones  of  Big  Thunder  will  repose  unmolested.  A  charter 
was  granted  for  the  purpose  at  the  recent  session  of  the  legislature. 

CALHOUN  County  occupies  the  most  southern  part  of  the  Military  Bounty 
tract,  and  is  a  long  narrow  piece  of  land  lying  between  the  Mississippi  and  Illinois 
rivers,  about  37  miles  in  length,  and  from  4  to  12  miles  in  breadth,  containing  an 
area  of  about  264  square  miles.  ,On  the  rivers  considerable  tracts  are  subject  to 
inundation,  and  in  the  interior  are  bluffs,  ravines,  and  sink  holes ;  still  there  are 
considerable  portions  of  good  land,  and  the  bottoms  furnish  excellent  range  for 
stock.  Cattle,  beef,  pork,  corn,  honey  and  beeswax  are  its  exports.  Coal  in  large 
bodies  is  found  on  the  Mississippi  in  the  southern  part  of  the  county. 

Guilford,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Illinois  river,  and  about  15  miles  from  its 
mouth,  is  the  seat  of  justice ;  it  has  been  but  lately  settled,  and  is  said  to  be  well 
situated  for  business  purposes.  A  company  has  been  chartered  to  cut  a  canal  from 
the  Illinois  river  at  Guilford,  to  the  Mississippi,  near  Gilead  ;  the  distance  does  not 
exceed  three  miles,  and  by  tunnelling  a  short  distance  under  the  bluff,  it  is  said 
the  work  can  be  accomplished,  and  a  steamboat  canal  constructed  at  comparatively 
small  expense.  This  communication  would  save  fifty  miles  navigation  from  the 
Illinois  river  to  the  upper  Mississippi ;  and  as  the  latter  is  elevated  considerably 
above  the  former,  would  create  an  immense  water-power,  which  is  the  object  of 
the  company.  The  other  towns  are,  Gilead,  the  late  seat  of  justice,  three-fourths 
of  a  mile  from,  and  Milan  and  Hamburg  on,  the  Mississippi,  and  Belleview  on  Bay 
river. 

CASS  County  is,  next  to  Wabash,  the  smallest  in  the  state.  It  was  laid  off 
from  the  north  part  of  Morgan  county  in  1837,  and  contains  a  little  more  than  seven 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  75 


full  townships,  or  about  260  square  miles.  It  is  29  miles  in  extent  from  east  to 
west,  and  averaging  about  11  broad.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Sangamon 
county,  from  which  it  is  separated  from  the  river  of  the  same  name,  south  by  Mor- 
gan, east  by  Sangamon,  and  west  by  Schuyler,  the  Illinois  river  forming  the  bound- 
ary. The  land  is  about  equally  divided  into  timber  and  prairie,  the  surface  undu- 
lating, and  the  soil  generally  very  rich.  It  is  well  settled,  the  population  being 
estimated  at  about  6500. 

The  towns  are  Beardstown,  Virginia,  Monroe,  and  Richmond.  The  first  is  the 
seat  of  justice,  and  one  of  the  most  thriving  places  on  the  Illinois  river ;  its  com- 
merce is  extensive,  and  it  is  the  depot  for  die  produce  of  a  large  region  of  country. 
Virginia  is  a  town  lately  laid  off,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  county,  on  the  main 
road  from  Beardstown  to  Springfield,  12  miles  from  the  former  and  33  from  the 
latter ;  the  site  is  high  and  dry,  partly  prairie  and  partly  timber,  and  very  healthy. 
It  contains  already  three  storey,  a  tavern,  a  school  for  females,  and  another  for  boys  a 
short  distance  from  the  town ;  a  church,  and  several  public  improvements  are  in 
progress. 

CHAMPAIGN  County  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  attached  part  of  Ver- 
million,  on  the  south  by  Coles,  east  by  Vernrillion,  and  on  the  west  by  Macon  and 
M'Lean  counties,  and  is  36  miles  in  length,  by  SO  in  breadth;  area  1080 square 
miles.  It  is  watered  by  the  head  streams  of  the  Sangamon,  Kaskaskia,  and  Big 
Vermillion,  The  ceonty  contains  extensive  prairies,  indented  with  beautiful 
groves  of  fine  timber,  with  a  rich  and  fertile  soil;  it  is  well  adapted  to  the  growth 
of  stock,  and  will  prove  undoubtedly  a  healthy  region.  This  county  was  organized 
from  Vermillion  in  1833 ;  inhabitants  in  1835,  1045. 

The  county  town  is  Urbanna,  a  small  village,  situated  on  the  Salt  Fork  of  Ver- 
million river. 

CLARK  County  is  bounded,  north  by  Edgar,  south  by  Crawford,  west  by  Coles 
county,  and  east  by  Wabash  river  and  the  state  of  Indiana.  It  is  from  28  to  20 
miles  in  extent  from  east  to  west,  and  21  from  north  to  south;  area  about  500 
square  miles.  Its  streams  are,  ^j^  north  fork  of  *he  Embarras  river,  Mill  Creek, 
and  Big  Creek.  The  surface  is  toleraWy.well  proportioned  into  timber  and  prairie, 
with  some  first-rate  soil,  although  tde  main  part  of  it  is  but  second-rate.  This 
county  was  formed  from  Crawford,  in  1819,  and  contained  in  1835,  3413  inhabitants. 

Its  seat  of  justice  is  Marshall,  on  the  National  Road.  The  other  towns  are  Dar- 
win, Livingston,  Martinsville,  and  Melrose.  Livingston  is  on  the  National  Road, 
112  miles  north-east  from  Vandal  ia,  and  14  south-west  from  Terre  Haute.  It  has 
three  stores,  three  groceries,  three  taverns,  one  physician,  two  ministers  of  the 
gospel,  various  mechanics,  and  about  150  inhabitants. 

CLAY  Connty  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Jasper  and  Effingham,  south  by 
Wayne  and  Edwards,  east  by  Lawrence,  and  west  by  Marion  and  Fayette  coun- 
ties. It  is  in  length  about  30  miles,  and  in  breadth  21  miles,  containing  an  area 
of  about  620  square  miles.  Its  streams  are  the  Little  Wabasli  and  its  tributaries. 
About  two-thirds  of  the  surface  is  prairie  of  an  inferior  quality.  This  county  was 
formed  from  Wayne,  Lawrence,  Crawford,  and  Fayette,  in  1824,  and  contained  in 
1835,  1648  inhabitants. 

The  towns  are  Maysville  and  Louisville.  The  former  is  the  county  town,  and 
is  situated  in  Twelve-mile  Prairie,  not  far  from  the  right  bank  of  the  Little  Wabash 
river. 

CLINTON  County  is  bounded  north  by  Bond,  south  by  Washington,  east  by 
Marion,  and  west  by  St.  Clair  and  Madison  counties.  It  is  30  miles  long,  and  18 
wide,  with  an  area  of  504  square  miles.  The  streams  which  water  this  county 
are  the  Kaskaskia  river,  and  its  tributaries  Crooked,  Shoal,  and  Sugar  creeks.  It 
is  about  equally  proportioned  into  prairie  and  timber  land,  with  an  undulating  sur- 
face;  the  soil  is  mostly  second-rate.  Clinton  was  formed  in  1824,  from  Washing- 
ton and  Bond  counties,  and  contained  in  1835,  2648  inhabitants. 


76  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


Its  county  town  is  Carlyle,  a  village  of  about  200  inhabitants,  situated  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Kaskaskia  river,  100  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  contains  five 
stores,  three  taverns,  and  a  grist  and  saw  mill. 

COLES  County  is  situated  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  state,  and  is  bounded  north 
by  Champaign,  south  by  Jasper  and  Effingham,  east  by  Edgar  and  Clark,  and  west 
by  Shelby  and  Macon  counties.  It  is  48  miles  long,  and  from  28  to  24£  wide, 
containing  1233  square  miles.  It  it  watered  by  the  Kaskaskia  and  Embarras 
rivers  and  their  branches;  these  generally  run  over  a  bed  of  sand,  and  afford  many 
good  mill-sites.  Most  part  of  the  land  is  excellent,  in  some  parts  prairie  predomi- 
nates, but  in  general  the  surface  is  well  proportioned  into  prairie  and  wood  land. 
This  county  was  formed  in  1830,  from  Clark  and  Edgar,  and  contained  in  1835, 
5125  inhabitants.  Most  of  the  settlements  are  of  recent  formation ;  but  its  agri- 
cultural productions  must  soon  exceed  those  of  any  other  county  near  the  Wabash, 
and  will  find  their  way  to  that  river  for  market. 

The  county  town  is  Charleston,  a  village  situated  on  the  border  of  Grand  Prairie, 
two  and  a  half  miles  from,  and  on  the  west  side  of  the  Embarras  river,  containing 
about  200  inhabitants. 

COOK  County  is  bounded  north  by  M'Henry,  south  by  Will,  east  by  lake 
Michigan  and  part  of  the  state  of  Indiana,  and  west  by  Kane  county ;  it  extends 
from  north  to  south  42  miles,  and  from  east  to  west  33  miles,  and  contains  an  area 
of  about  1220  square  miles.  It  is  watered  by  the  Des  Planes,  Calumet  and  Chicago 
rivers,  and  embraces  a  tract  of  country  tolerably  level,  of  a  rich  soil,  with  large 
prairies,  and  the  timber  mostly  in  groves.  This  county  was  organized  in  1831,  and 
has  been  settled  with  great  rapidity,  numbering  in  1835,  9826  inhabitants. 

Its  seat  of  justice  is  Chicago:  the  other  towns  have  all  been  recently  settled, 
and  are  quite  small;  they  are  Canal  Port,  Napiersville,  Des  Planes,  Keepotaw, 
and  Thornton. 

CRAWFORD  County  is  21  miles  long,  arid  from  22  to  16  broad,  and  contains 
about  400  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  north  by  Clark,  south  by  Lawrence  county, 
east  by  the  Wabash  river  and  the  state  of  Indiana,  and  west  by  Jasper  county.  It 
contains  a  large  proportion  of  prairie  land,  of  which  La  Motte  Prairie  is  a  level  and 
rich  tract,  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  corn.  The  streams  which  water  this 
county  are  tributaries  of  the  Wabash  and  Embarras  rivers;  of  the  former  are  Rac- 
coon, Hutson,  Sugar,  and  La  Motte  creeks.  Crawford  county  was  laid  off  in  1816, 
and  was  formerly  much  more  extensive  than  at  present  It  contained  in  1835, 
3540  inhabitants. 

The  seat  of  justice  is  Palestine,  situated  about  three  miles  west  of  the  Wabash 
river.  Here  are  the  offices  of  the  receiver  and  register  for  the  land  district  of 
Palestine  :  the  inhabitants  are  about  220  in  number.  The  other  towns  in  the 
county  are  Le  Roy,  Hutsonville,  and  York.  York  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  Wabash  river,  about  50  miles  by  the  stream  above  Vincennes,  and  in  the  north- 
east corner  of  the  county.  It  contains  four  stores,  one  steam  saw  and  flouring 
mill,  and  a  population  of  about  300  inhabitants.  Its  exports  amount  to  $40,000. 

EDGAR  County  is  bounded  north  by  Vermillion,  south  by  Clark,  east  by  the 
state  of  Indiana,  and  west  by  Coles  county.  It  extends  from  north  to  south  27 
miles,  and  from  east  to  west  25  miles;  area,  about  660  square  miles.  It  contains 
much  prairie  land  in  the  western  and  southern  sections ;  the  remainder  is  tolerably 
well  timbered.  The  soil  is  in  general  fertile,  and  well  adapted  to  the  various  pro- 
ductions of  this  state.  Edgar  was  formed  from  Clark  county  in  1823,  and  contained 
in  1835,  a  population  of  6668. 

The  chief  town  is  Paris,  the  county  seat,  a  pleasant  village  on  the  borders  of  a 
rich  prairie,  surrounded  with  good  farms,  with  a  population  of  200  inhabitants. 
The  other  towns  are  Grand  View,  and  Bloomh'eld  ;  the  former  is  a  small  village  12 
miles  south-east  from  Paris ;  it  is  on,  and  surrounded  by,  a  beautiful  rolling  rich 
prairie. 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  77 

EDWARDS  County  is  watered  by  the  Little  Wabash,  Bon  Pas,  and  their 
branches.  It  contains  a  considerable  proportion  of  prairie  land,  most  of  which  is 
very  fertile.  The  prairies  are  principally  small,  high,  undulating-,  and  bounded  by 
heavy  timber;  thus  presenting  every  inducement  to  the  agriculturist.  It  is  on 
one  of  these  that  the  English  settlement  formed  by  Messrs.  Birkbeck  arid  Flowers 
is  located.  This  county  is  22  miles  long  from  north  to  south,  and  16  from  east  to 
west,  with  an  area  of  about  355  square  miles.  It  was  formed  in  1814  from  Galla- 
tin,  and  is  bounded  north  by  Lawrence,  south  by  White,  east  by  Wabash,  and  west 
by  Wayne  county  :  inhabitants  in  1835,  2008. 

The  county-town,  Albion,  is  situated  on  a  high  and  healthy  situation,  being  little 
subject  to  those  diseases  which  are  so  prevalent  in  many  parts  of  this  state  during 
the  summer  and  autumn.  The  surrounding  country  is  very  fertile,  and  is  hand- 
somely diversified  with  woodland  and  prairie ;  it  contains  about  200  inhabitants. 

EFFINGHAM  County  is  bounded  north  by  Shelby  and  Coles,  south  by  Clay 
and  Fayette,  east  by  Jasper,  and  west  by  Fayette  county.  Area,  486  square  miles; 
length  24  miles,  and  breadth  21.  It  is  watered  by  the  Little  Wabash  and  its  tri- 
butaries, and  contains  good  second-rate  land  nearly  level.  The  bottom  lands  on  the 
Little  Wabash  are  tolerably  rich,  and  heavily  timbered.  This  county  was  taken 
from  Fayette  in  the  year  1831 :  its  inhabitants  in  1835  numbered  1055.  Ewington, 
the  county  town,  is  on  the  National  Road,  29  miles  north-east  from  Vandalia,  and 
is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Little  Wabash  river,  on  an  elevated  site,  sur- 
rounded with  timber.  ,^- 

FAYETTE  County  was  created  in  1821,  and  at  the  time  of  its  first  formation 
was  nearly  200  miles  in  length,  but  has  since, been  divided  into  several  counties. 
It  is  bounded  north  by  Shelby,  south  by  Marion  and  Clinton,  east  by  Effingham, 
and  west  by  Bond  and  Montgomery  counties.  It  is  from  33  to  27  miles  long,  and 
24  broad ;  and  contains  684  square  miles.  It  is  watered  by  the  Kaskaskia  river 
and  its  tributaries,  the  principal  of  which  in  this  county  are  Hurricane  Fork,  Ram- 
sey's, and  Beck's,  on  the  west,  and  Hickory  and  Big  creeks  on  the  east.  The  banks 
of  the  Kaskaskia  are  generally  low,  and  subject  to  inundation :  a  rise  in  this  stream 
is  frequently  occasioned  by  slight  rains,  in  consequence  of  the  numerous  tributaries. 
This,  however,  is  only  of  short  duration.  There  is  in  this  county  a  heavy  growth 
of  timber  along  the  Kaskaskia  river  and  Hurricane  Fork ;  there  is  also  a  good  por- 
tion of  prairie  land.  The  soil  is  mostly  second-rate.  In  1835,  the  population 
amounted  to  3638. 

The  Seminary  Township  is  a  settlement  in  the  south-west  corner  of  the  county, 
being  township  five  north  and  one  west  of  the  third  principal  meridian.  It  is  a 
township  of  land,  36  miles  square,  granted  by  congress  to  Illinois  for  purposes  of 
education.  It  has  since  been  relinquished  to  the  general  government,  and  in 
place  thereof,  an  equal  quantity  is  to  be  selected  from  unsold  lands  within  the  state. 
The  Kaskaskia  river  crosses  its  south-eastern  part,  and  the  Hurricane  Fork  runs 
through  it  near  its  western  boundary. 

It  is  proportioned  into  timber  and  prairie,  contains  much  good  land,  and  about 
35  families. 

The  seat  of  justice  is  Vandalia,  the  present  capital  of  the  state. 

FRANKLIN  County  is  situated  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state,  and  is  bounded 
north  by  Jefferson,  south  by  Johnson  and  Union,  east  by  Hamilton  and  Gallatin, 
and  west  by  Jackson  and  Randolph  counties.  It  is  36  miles  in  length,  and  24  in 
breadth :  its  area  is  864  square  miles.  This  county  is  watered  by  Big  Muddy  river 
and  the  branches  of  Saline  creek.  It  is  well  timbered ;  the  prairies  are  generally 
small  and  fertile ;  sand  predominates  in  the  soil.  The  banks  of  the  streams  are 
low,  and  subject  to  annual  inundations.  Franklin  is  similar  in  character  and  pro- 
ductions to  the  neighbouring  counties;  and  is  capable  of  being  made  a  rich  agri- 
cultural district.  This  county  was  organized  in  1818,  and  in  1835  contained  5551 
inhabitants.  Frankfort,  the  county  town,  is  a  small  village,  situated  on  a  tributary 


78  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


of  the  middle  fork  of  Big  Muddy  creek,  an  elevated  ground,  on  the  main  stage- 
road  from  Shawneetown  to  St.  Louis. 

FULTON  County  is  situated  in  the  Military  Bounty  Tract,  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Illinois  river.  It  is  bounded  north  by  Knox  and  Peoria,  south  by  Schuyler, 
east  by  Peoria,  Tazewell,  and  Sangamon,  and  west  by  Warren,  M'Donough,  and 
Schuyler  counties.  It  is  in  its  greatest  length  36  miles,  and  greatest  breadth,  30; 
containing  an  area  of  864  square  miles.  The  streams  which  water  it  are  the 
Illinois  and  Spoon  rivers,  and  Otter  and  Copperas  creeks.  About  half  of  the 
county  is  heavily  timbered ;  the  residue  is  rich  undulating  prairie.  This  county 
was  laid  off  from  Pike  in  1825,  and  contained  in  1835  a  population  of  5917. 
Lewistown,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  situated  about  six  miles  west  of  the  Illinois  river, 
and  four  miles  north-east  of  Spoon  river:  it  is  surrounded  with  a  heavy  body  of 
timber,  and  contains  a  population  of  about  200.  The  other  towns  are  Tuscumbia, 
Middletown,  Utica,  Liverpool,  Ellisville,  Bernadotte,  Farmington,  and  Canton: 
the  latter  is  a  thriving  town,  and  the  largest  in  the  county.  Liverpool  is  a  small 
town  recently  laid  out  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Illinois,  six  miles  above  the  mouth 
of  Spoon  river,  and  about  twelve  from  Canton,  of  which  it  is  the  landing-place,  and 
will  be  the  commencing  point  for  the  Liverpool,  Canton,  and  Knoxville  rail-road. 

Farmington  is  situated  in  the  north-east  corner  of  the  county,  25  miles  due  west 
from  Peoria:  it  was  laid  off  in 'August  1835,  and  now  contains  between  twenty 
and  thirty  houses,  besides  four  stores,  one  physician,  and  a  number  of  mechanics. 

OALLATIN  County 4s  situated  in  the  south-western  part  of  the  state:  its 
greatest  length  is  about  37  miles,  with  a  medium  breadth  of  25;  and  its  area  is 
750  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  north  by  White  and  Hamilton  counties,  south  by 
Pope  county,  east  by  the  states  of  Kentucky  and  Indiana,  and  west  by  Franklin 
county.  Situated  as  it  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Wabash  and  Ohio  rivers,  its  east- 
ern boundary  is  washed  by  those  streams.  .The  interior  is  watered  by  Saline  creek 
and  its  tributaries. 

This  county  contains  a  large  proportion  of  timbered  land,  which  is  particularly 
valuable  on  account  of  its  contiguity  to  the  salt  springs :  these  are  situated  on 
Saline  creek,  about  20  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Ohio  river.  The  principal 
spring  was  formerly  possessed  by  the  Indians,  who  valued  it  highly,  and  called  it 
the  Great  Salt  Spring;  and  it  appears  probable,  from  a  variety  of  circumstances, 
that  they  had  been  long  acquainted  with  the  method  of  making  salt  Large  frag- 
ments of  earthen-ware  are  continually  found  near  the  Works,  both  on  and  under 
the  surface  of  the  earth.  They  have  on  them  the  impression  of  basket  or  wicker 
work.  These  salines  now  furnish  large  quantities  of  salt  for  home  consumption, 
as  well  as  for  exportation. 

In  a  treaty  between  the  United  States,  and  the  Delaware,  Shawanee,  Pottawa- 
tomie,  Eel  River,  Weea,  Kiekapoo,  and  Piankasaw  tribes,  at  Fort  Wayne,  on  the 
7th  of  June,  1803,  this  saline iva*s, ceded  to  the  United  States,  with  a  quantity  of 
land,  not  exceeding  four  miles,  su/rtAmding  it,  in  consideration  of  which,  the  United 
States  engaged  to  deliver  annually  to  the  said  Indians,  a  quantity  of  salt  not  ex- 
ceeding 150  bushels,  to  be  divided  among  the  several  tribes  in  such  a  manner  as 
the  general  council  of  chiefs  may  determine.  For  a  number  of  years,  it  was  pos- 
sessed by  the  United  States,  with  a  reservation  of  161  sections  of  land  in  the  vicinity, 
the  whole  of  which  were  ceded  in  1818  to  the  state  of  Illinois,  by  whom  it  was 
leased  to  different  individuals  for  about  10,000  dollars  per  annum.  The  works  are 
situated  on  section  20,  township  9,  south  range  8,  east  of  the  third  principal  me- 
ridian. Saline  creek*  is  navigable  to  the  works,  and  the  surplus  salt  is  thus  shipped 
to  southern  markets. 

This  part  of  Illinois  is  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  stock :  large  amounts  of 
horses,  beef,  pork,  cattle,  lumber,  and  tobacco,  are  sent  out  of  the  county.  Gallatin 
county  was  organized  in  1812 :  its  population  in  1835  amounted  to  8660. 

The  seat  of  justice  for  this  county  is  Equality,  a  town  with  a  population  of  four 
or  five  hundred,  on  the  east  side  of  Saline  creek.  It  is  situated  in  the  midst  of 
the  salt  manufactories,  fourteen  miles  north-ewet  from  Shawneetown.  The  latter 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  79 


is  the  principal  commercial  town  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state.  It  is  situated 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  Ohio  river,  about  ten  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Wabash. 

GREENE  County,  on  the  Illinois  river,  is  41  miles  in  length,  and  24  in  breadth ; 
area,  about  900  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  north  by  Morgan,  south  by  Madison 
and  Calhoun  counties  and  the  state  of  Missouri,  east  by  Maeoupin,  and  west  by 
Calhoun  and  Pike  counties,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Illinois  river.  This 
is  one  of  the  richest  districts  in  the  state.  Fine  water-courses,  a  fertile  soil,  and 
contiguity  to  navigable  streams,  are  some  of  the  many  advantages  which  it  pos- 
sesses. It  contains  a  large  proportion  of  timbered  land,  and  is  diversified  with 
gently  undulating  prairies,  some  of  which  are  beautiful  beyond  description.  The 
banks  of  the  Mississippi,  in  the  southerly  parts  of  the  county,  are  generally  com- 
posed of  perpendicular  cliffs,  varying  in  height  from  80  to  100  feet,  consisting  of 
horizontal  strata  of  lime  and  sandstone,  frequently  imbedded  in  coal.  The  latter 
does  not  show  itself  at  the  face  of  the  cliffs,  but  is  found  in  great  abundance  a 
short  distance  from  it  These  cliffs  commence  at  Alton,  and,  extend  along  the 
Mississippi  and  Illinois  rivers  to  the  northern  part  of  the  county ;  sometimes,  how- 
ever, receding  several  miles  east,  leaving  a  low  and  fertile  alluvion,  which  is  usually 
timbered  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  a  prairie  surface  towards  the  bluffs.  Greene 
county  was  erected  from  Madison  in  1821.  The  inhabitants  in  1835  numbered 
12,274. 

The  Prairies  in  this  county  are  generally  very  rich,  fertile,  and  well  settled :  the 
principal  of  them  are  String,  Macoupin,  and  Lorton's  Prairies. 

String  Prairie  lies  between  Macoupin  and  Apple  creeks,  commencing  four  miles 
west  of  Carrollton,  and  extending  fifteen  miles  east,  and  from  half  a  mile  to  three 
miles  in  width.  It  is  a  rich,  level  tract,  and  most  of  it  iff  ,a  state  of  cultivation. 

Macoupin  Prairie,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  county?  between  the  Piasau  and 
Macoupin,  is  moderately  undulating,  rich,  and  rapidly  settling.  The  road  from 
Alton  to  Carrollton  passes  through  this  prairie. 

Towards  the  Illinois  river  on  the  west,  and  the  Macoupin  creek  on  the  east,  are 
extensive  bodies  of  fine  timbet.  Emigrants  from  Vermont,  and  other  northern  and 
eastern  states,  are  covering  over  this  part  of  the  county  with  fine  fa'rms.  The 
settlement  in  the  south  part  of  this  prairie  is  sometimes  called  South  Greene. 

Lorton's  Prairie  is  on  the. north  -side  of  Apple  creek,  in  the  upper  part  of  the 
county.  It  is  a  tract  of  excellent  land,  has  good  timber,  and  contains  about  eighty 
families. 

Piper's  Point  settlement  is  16  miles  north-east  from  Carrollton,  adjoining  String 
Prairie,  and  the  timber  of  Apple  creek.  The  land  is  tolerably  level,  rich,  and  pro- 
portionably  divided  into  timber  and  prairie.  There  are  sixty  or  seventy  families  in 
this  settlement. 

Bluffdale  is  a  flourishing  settlement,  ten  miles  west  of  Carrollton,  and  under  the 
bluffs  that  overhang  the  Illinois  bottom.  The  land  is  rich,  dry,  and  beautifully 
situated  for  six  miles  in  extent,  under  overhanging  bluffs  and  precipices  from  which 
springs  of  "  crystal  waters"  gush  forth.  The  settlement  is  generally  arranged 
along  the  bluffs  from  Apple  creek  to  the  Macoupin,  from  three  to  four  miles  from 
the  Illinois  river,  and  consists  of  fifty  or  sixty  families.  The  settlement  of  Bluft- 
dale  has  two  stores,  one  grocery,  one  tavern,  one  minister  of  the  gospel,  and  a 
Baptist  congregation,  one  post-office,  one  school,  and  various  mechanics. 

Carrollton,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  situated  nearly  midway  in  the  county.  It  is  35 
miles  from  Alton,  106  north-west  from  Vandalia,  and  887  from  Washington  City. 
It  is  surrounded  by  rich  and  fertile  districts  of  country,  densely  populated.  The 
other  towns  in  the  county  are  Whitehall,  Albany,  Newport,  Bluffdale,  Fayette, 
Greenfield,  Jerseyville,  Camden,  and  Grafton. 

HAMILTON  County  is  bounded  north  by  Wayne,  south  by  Gallatin,  east  by 
White,  and  west  by  Franklin  and  Jefferson  counties.  It  is  in  length  24,  .and  in 
breadth  18  miles;  area,  432  square  miles.  This  county  is  watered  by  branches 
of  Saline  creek  and  Little  Wabash  river,  and  contains  about  JK  equal  proportion  of 


80  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


prairie  and  timbered  land  :  the  soil  is  mostly  second  and  third  rate.  Hamilton 
county  was  formed  from  White  county  in  1821,  and  contained  in  1835  a  popula- 
tion of  2877. 

M'Leansboro',  the  seat  of  justice,  is  a  small  village  of  about  120  inhabitants, 
situated  on  high  ground,  on  the  head  waters  of  the  north  fork  of  Saline  Creek. 

HANCOCK  County  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Warren  county  and  the  Mis- 
sissippi river,  south  by  Adams  county,  east  by  M'Donough  county,  and  west  by  the 
Mississippi.  It  contains  near  800  square  miles.  It  was  formed  from  Pike  county 
in  1825,  but  was  not  organized  as  a  county  for  several  years  afterwards.  In  1834, 
Hancock  only  gave  357  votes,  and  had  a  population  of  1785  inhabitants ;  now,  its 
population  cannot  be  much  short  of  5000,  and  is  steadily  and  rapidly  increasing 
with  enterprising  farmers  and  industrious  mechanics.  Carthage,  the  county  seat, 
was  laid  off  about  four  years  ago,  on  the  borders  of  a  large  and  beautiful  prairie, 
known  as  Hancock  Prairie,  and  about  half  a  mile  from  the  timber,  skirting  one  of 
the  head  branches  of  Crooked  creek.  The  population  of  Carthage  must  be  now 
(July,  1837,)  350  or  400,  with  40  or  50  houses.  There  are  four  stores,  two  public 
houses,  one  saddler,  several  carpenters,  one  or  two  shoemakers,  two  practising 
physicians,  three  lawyers,  one  wheelright,  two  blacksmiths,  two  or  three  cabinet- 
makers, and  three  groceries.  There, are  in  Carthage  a  small  society  of  Congre- 
gationalists,  and  one  of  Methodists,  and  one  of  Baptists  in  the  vicinity ;  and,  what 
is  perhaps  worthy  of  remark,  they  all  hold  meetings  in  the  same  house.  There  is 
a  temperance  society  here,  numbering  forty  or  fifty  members,  and  a  female  benev- 
olent society,  numbering  ten  or  fifteen.  There  is  also  a  good  school  generally  kept 
here. 

There  are  several  other  towns  of  some  importance  in  Hancock  county,  among 
which  are  the  following :  Warsaw,  five  miles  below  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  on  the 
Mississippi,  is  thriving  rapidly,  and  is  destined  to  attain  a  high  rank  among  the 
towns  of  the  west  The  advantages  of  its  situation  are  obvious,  being  opposite  the 
mouth  of  the  Des  Moines  river,  and  the  point  of  termination  for  the  contemplated 
rail-road  connecting  the  Illinois  with  the  Mississippi.  It  has  a  steam-mill,  several 
stores,  and  about  300  inhabitants.  St.  Mary's,  Augusta,  and  La  Harpe,  are  all 
flourishing  towns,  and  are  situated  in  the  midst  of  excellent  neighbourhoods.  The 
other  towns  are,  Montebello,  Commerce,  and  Apanooce,  all  on  the  Mississippi  river. 

HENRY  County  has  been  laid  off,  and  the  boundaries  specified;  but,  for  judi- 
cial purposes,  it  is  attached  to  Knox  county.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Rock 
river  and  Whiteside  county,  south  by  Knox,  east  by  Putnam,  and  west  by  Mercer 
and  Rock  Island  counties.  It  is  thirty  miles  in  extent  from  east  to  west,  and  the 
same  in  breadth,  except  at  the  north-west  corner,  where  it  touches  Rock  river : 
area,  about  850  square  miles.  It  is  watered  by  Rock  and  Green  rivers,  and  the 
head  branches  of  Edward's,  Pope's  and  Spoon  rivers.  This  county  contains  some 
rich  undulating  prairies  and  groves,  with  a  good  deal  of  wet  and  swampy  land  ; 
but  generally  it  is  not  equal  in  fertility  of  soil  to  those  around  it.  The  population 
is  small,  amounting  in  1835,  only  to  118  persons. 

Andover,  Lagrange,  and  Morristown,  are  small  villages,  recently  settled. 

IROQUOIS  County  is  42  miles  long,  and  34  broad,  containing  an  area  of  1428 
square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Will  county,  south  by  Vermillion, 
east  by  the  state  of  Indiana,  and  west  by  the  attached  part  of  Vermillion  county. 
It  is  watered  by  the  Iroquois  river,  and  by  Sugar  and  Spring  creeks,  and  other  tri- 
butaries of  that  stream.  The  surface  of  this  county  is  mostly  prairie,  some  of  it 
very  rich,  with  here  and  there  sand  ridges  and  plains.  The  timber  is  rather  scanty, 
and  is  found  chiefly  in  groves,  and  in  strips  along  the  water-courses.  There  are 
considerable  settlements  on  the  Iroquois  river,  and  also  along  Sugar  creek.  The 
county  was  laid  off  in  1833,  and  contained  in  1835,  1164  inhabitants. 

Its  seat  of  justice  is  Montgomery,  situated  on  the  south  bank  of  Iroquois  river. 
The  other  villages  are  Concord  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  Plato  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  same  stream,  and  about  fifteen  miles  nearly  west  from  the  former. 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  81 


Iroquois  City  has  been  lately  laid  off,  near  the  centre  of  the  county,  and  will  pro- 
bably become  the  seat  of  justice. 

JACKSON  County  is  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state,  and  is  bounded  on  the 
west  by  the  Mississippi  river  and  part  of  Randolph  county,  north  by  Perry  and 
Randolph,  east  by  Franklin,  and  south  by  Union  county.  Its  length  from  north  to 
south  is  24  miles,  and  from  east  to  west  from  18  to  28  miles.  The  area  is  about 
565  square  miles.  .  It  is  watered  by  the  Big  Muddy  river  and  its  tributaries.  The 
surface  of  the  county  is  mostly  timbered,  although  it  contains  many  prairies. 
Muddy  river,  which  meanders  through  the  interior  of  the  county,  is  navigable  for 
a  considerable  distance,  and  affords  to  the  inhabitants  every  facility  for  exporting 
their  surplus  produce.  On  this  stream  there  is  a  saline  or  salt  spring,  where  con- 
siderable quantities  of  salt  are  manufactured.  A  large  body  of  excellent  coal  ex- 
ists about  twenty-five  miles  up  this  stream.  The  bed  is  said  to  be  inexhaustible, 
and  it  is  worked  to  some  extent.  This  county  was  formed  in  1816,  and  contained 
in  1835  a  population  of  2783  inhabitants. 

The  Fountain  Bluff,  frequently  called  the  "  Big  Hill,"  in  the  south-west  corner 
of  the  county,  is  a  singularly  formed  eminence,  or  rocky  bluff,  on  the  river  Missis- 
sippi, eight  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Muddy  river.  It  is  of  an  oval  shape, 
eight  miles  in  circumference,  and  with  an  elevation  of  300  feet.  The  western 
side  is  on  the  river,  and  the  top  is  broken,  full  of  sink  holes,  with  shrubs  and  scat- 
tering timber.  The  north  side  is  nearly  perpendicular  rock,  but  the  south  side  is 
sloping,  and  ends  in  a  fine  rich  tract  of  soil,  covered  with  farms.  East  is  an  exten- 
sive and  low  bottom  with  lakes  and  swamps.  Fine  springs  of  limpid  water  gush 
out  from  the  foot  of  this  bluff  on  all  sides. 

North,  and  along  the  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  is  dry  and  rich  alluvion,  with  a 
line  of  farms  known  by  the  name  of  the  "  Settlement  under  the  Bluff." 

Brownsville,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  a  small  village,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
county,  and  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Big  Muddy  river.  It  is  about  twelve  miles 
by  land,  and  twenty-five  by  water,  to  the  Mississippi  river.  The  population  is 
about  120  persons. 

JASPER  County  is  bounded  north  by  Coles,  south  by  Lawrence  and  Clay,  east 
by  Crawford,  and  west  by  Effingham  and  clay  counties.  It  is  in  extent  from  north 
to  south  22  miles,  from  east  to  west  23,  and  contains  an  area  of  506  square  miles. 
This  county  was  formed  in  1831,  and  in  1835  contained  415  inhabitants.  It  is 
watered  by  the  Embarras  river  and  its  tributaries,  and  also  the  streams  flowing  into 
the  Little  Wabash.  It  contains  some  fertile  tracts,  but  much  of  both  the  prairie 
and  timber  land  is  level,  wet,  and  of  an  inferior  quality. 

Newton,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  a  small  place,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Embarras 
river. 

JEFFERSON  County  is  situated  centrally  between  the  Mississippi  and  Wa- 
bash rivers.  It  was  organized  in  1819,  and  forms  a  square  of  24  miles,  with  an 
I  area  of  576  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Marion,  south  by  Frank- 
lin, east  by  Wayne  and  Hamilton,  and  west  by  Perry  and  Washington  counties. 
It  is  watered  chiefly  by  the  branches  of  the  Big  Muddy  river,  and  also  by  streams 
flowing  into  the  Skillet  fork  of  Little  Wabash  river.  The  surface  of  the  country 
is  about  one-third  prairie;  the  remainder,  timber.  The  soil  is  tolerable  second- 
rate  land.  It  was  organized  in  1819,  from  Edwards  and  White  counties.  The 
inhabitants  in  1835  amounted  to  3350. 

There  are  several  compact  settlements  in  different  parts  of  the  county :  the 
principal  are,  Moore's,  Gun,  Long,  and  Jordan's  Prairie  Settlements. 

Moore's  Prairie  Settlement  is  from  six  to  twelve  miles  south-east  of  Mount  Ver- 
non.  It  consists  of  about  75  families.  The  prairie  is  eight  miles  long,  and  from 
two  to  three  miles  wide.  Some  portions  of  it  are  flat  and  wet,  and  other  parts 
dry  and  undulating. 

Gun  Prairie  is  six  miles  south  of  Mount  Vernon.  It  is  two  miles  long,  and  one 
wide.  The  land  is  good,  and  the  settlement  contains  twenty  families. 


82  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


Long  Prairie  is  five  miles  west  of  Mount  Vernon.  It  lies  between  the  Middle 
and  West  forks  of  Big  Muddy  river,  is  tolerably  fertile,  and  is  four  miles  long  and 
one  mile  and  a  half  wide.  The  settlement  contains  forty  families. 

Jordan's  Prairie,  six  miles  north  of  Mount  Vernon,  is  five  miles  long,  and  one 
mile  and  a  half  wide.  The  land  is  second-rate,  and  the  settlement  contains  fifty 
families. 

Mount  Vernon,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  near  the  centre  of  the  county,  on  a  branch 
of  the  Big  Muddy  river.  It  is  pleasantly  situated,  on  the  north  side  of  Carey's 
Prairie,  and  surrounded  with  a  considerable  settlement.  The  population  is  about 
150.  It  has  six  stores,  three  groceries,  one  tavern,  two  physicians,  two  ministers, 
a  court-house  and  jail,  a  Methodist  Episcopal  and  a  Baptist  society,  besides  various 
mechanical  establishments. 

JO  DAVIESS  County  occupies  the  north-west  corner  of  the  state,  and  includes 
the  best  settled  part  of  the  lead-mine  region  within  the  limits  of  Illinois.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  Wisconsin  Territory,  south  by  Whiteside  county,  east  by 
the  counties  of  Stephenson  and  Ogle,  and  west  by  Wisconsin  Territory,  from 
which  it  is  separated  by  the  Mississippi  river.  It  comprised  until  lately  all  the 
country  lying  north-west  of  Rock  river,  but  has  been  divided  into  several  counties. 
It  now  extends  from  east  to  west  from  34  to  15  miles,  and  from  north  to  south  36, 
containing  an  urea  of  about  950  square  miles.  Besides  the  Mississippi,  it  is 
watered  by  the  Pekatonica,  Fever,  and  Apple  rivers,  and  Rush  and  Plum  creeks, 
on  which  there  are  many  good  mill-sites.  This  is  a  rich  county,  both  for  agricul- 
tural and  mining  purposes.  The  surface  is  mostly  undulating  prairie,  and  occa- 
sionally hilly.  Timber  is  scarce.  Lead  and  copper  are  found  in  abundance,  of 
which  the  first  forms  the  chief  staple  and  article  of  export  Jo  Daviess  county 
was  laid  off  in  1827,  and  contained  in  1835,  403$  inhabitants. 

About  twelve  miles  east  of  tGalena,  the  surrounding  country  rises  to  the  height 
of  seven  or  eigb£  hundred  feet  above*  the  general  level  of  the  mining  district. 
From  the  centre  of  this  elevation*  Mount  St.  Charles  shoots  up  like  a  pyramid,  150 
feet  high.  The  base  of  the  whole  mount  includes  two  or  three  square  miles ;  the 
base  of  the  pyramid  is  one-fourth  of  a  mile  fn  length,  and  250  yards  in  breadth. 
Its  top  is  long  and  quite  narrow.  The  whole  mound,  as  is  the  case  with  many 
smaller  ones,  is  a  natural  formation. 

Galena,  the  seat  of  justice  of  the  county,  is  on  the  right  bank  of  Fever  river,  a 
few  miles  from  the  Mississippi,  and  is  the  most  important  town  in  the  lead-mine 
district. 

The  other  towns  are,  Gratiot's  Grove,  about  15  miles  north-east  from  Galena ; 
Wapeto,  at  the  falls  of  Apple  river ;  and  Savannah,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi river,  at  the  mouth  of  Plum  creek. 

JOHNSON  County  is  situated  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state,  and  is  bounded 
north  by  Franklin,  south  by  the  Ohio  river,  east  by  Pope,  and  west  by  Union  and 
Alexander  counties.  It  is  from  31  to  25  miles  in  length,  and  in  breadth  18,  with 
an  area  of  about  486  square  miles.  The  interior  of  the  county  is  watered  by  the 
heads  of  Cash  river  and  Big  Bay  creek.  The  southern  boundary  is  washed  by  the 
Ohio,  the  banks  of  which  are  generally  fertile.  Occasionally  they  consist  of  ledges 
of  perpendicular  rocks,  which,  by  extending  across  the  river,  form  what  is  called 
the  Little  and  Grand  Chain,  so  much  dreaded  by  those  who  navigate  this  river. 
Near  these,  however,  are  pilots  who  are  acquainted  with  the  channel,  and  who 
generally  conduct  the  boats  through  in  safety.  This  county  has  a  large  proportion 
of  level  land,  which  is  generally  well  wooded  and  inclining  to  a  sandy  soil.  Some 
portions  of  it  are  but  thinly  populated,  owing  in  some  measure,  no  doubt,  to  the  un- 
healthiness  occasioned  by  the  overflowing  of  the  Ohio,  and  the  marshes  which  ex- 
ist near  the  southern  boundary.  Johnson  county  was  organized  in  1812,  and  in 
1835  contained  2166  inhabitants.  On  the  dividing  line  between  this  and  the  ad- 
joining county  of  Pope,  and  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ohio  river,  about  ten  miles 
below  the  mouth  of  the  Tennessee  river,  stood  Fort  Massac,  a  military  post  of  some 
importance  in  the  earlier  settlement  of  the  country.  A  fort  was  erected  here  by 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  83 


the  French  when  in  possession  of  the  western  country.  The  Indians,  then  at  war 
with  them,  laid  a  curious  stratagem  to  take  it  A  number  of  them  appeared  in  the 
day-time  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  each  of  whom  was  covered  with  a  bear- 
skin and  walked  on  all  fours.  Supposing  them  to  be  bears,  a  party  of  the  French 
crossed  the  river  in  pursuit  of  them.  The  remainder  of  the  troops  left  their 
quarters  to  see  the  sport.  In  the  meantime  a  large  body  of  warriors,  who  were 
concealed  in  the  woods  near  by,  came  silently  behind  the  fort,  entered  it  without 
opposition,  and  very  few  of  the  French  escaped  the  massacre.  They  afterwards 
built  another  fort  on  the  same  ground,  and  called  it  Massac,  in  memory  of  this  dis- 
astrous event.  In  1750  they  abandoned  the  position.  After  the  revolutionary  war 
the  Americans  repaired  or  rebuilt  it,  and  kept  a  garrison  here  for  several  years. 
The  buildings  are  now  destroyed. 

There  are,  in  different  parts  of  the  county,  compact  settlements,  chiefly  agricul- 
tural :  these  are  named,  Bridge's,  Elvira,  M'Fatridge's,  and  Buncombe  Settlements. 

Bridge's  Settlement  is  about  ten  miles  west  of  Vienna :  it  contains  some  tolera- 
bly good  land.  Population,  about  60  families. 

Elvira  Settlement  is  on  Lick  creek,  a  branch  of  Cash  river.  It  is  about  15  miles 
north-west  from  Vienna,  and  contains  30  or  40*families.  The  land  is  rich  and 
level. 

M'Fatridge's  Settlement  is  about  8  miles  "north-east  from  Vienna,  on  the  old  road 
from  Golconda  to  Kaskaskia,  and  on  the  Caters  of  Cedar  creek.  The  surface  is 
rather  broken,  and  the  soil  thin.  The  settrement  contains  50  or  60  families. 

Buncombe  Settlement  is  about  eight  miles  northwest  from  Vienna :  it  contains 
40  families.  The  soil  is  rather  thin,  broke"u,  and  rocky. 

Vienna,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  a  small  village,  situated  about  13  miles  nortli  of 
the  Ohio  river,  on  the  east  fork  of  Cash  river,  and  in  the  main  road  from  Golconda 
to  Jonesborough  and  Jackson,  Missouri.  It  contains  from  130  to  160  inhabitants. 

KANE  County  is  situated  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state,  and  is*bounded  north 
by  Boone  and  M'Henry,  south  by  La  Salle,  east  by  Cook,  and  weet  by  Ogle  county. 
It  was  formed  in  1836,  and  is  estimajed^tt?  contain  a  population  of  1500,  although 
no  part  of  it  is  yet  survejjpd,  and  consequently  has  not  been  sold  by  the  govern- 
ment It  contains  an  area  of  1296  square  miles,  and  is  36  miles  in  extent  from 
north  to  south,  and  the  same  from  east  to  west.  Fox  river  extends  through  its 
eastern  division,  in  a  direction  nearly  south-west :  the  other  streams  are  Mill, 
Blackberry,  Rock,  Somonauk,  and  Indian  creeks,  entering  Fox  river  on  the  right- 
hand  side;  and  Wabonsie  and  Morgan  creeks  on  the  opposite  banks:  on  its  west- 
ern and  north-western  portion,  it  receives  several  smaller  streams,  and  the  south 
main  branches  of  the  Kishwaukee  or  Sycamore  creek  that  enters  Rock  river. 
These  are  all  good  mill-streams,  and  already  saw  and  flouting  mills  are  built  or  in 
progress.  The  banks  are  usually  skirted  with  pleasant  groves  of  timber,  occasion- 
ally interspersed  with  barrens  only.  There  are  for  the  most  part  contiguous  set- 
tlements on  all  these  streams ;  and  in  some  places  they  are  quite  compact  and 
pleasant. 

A  large  proportion  of  the  county  is  rich  prairie,  with  some  deficiency  in  the 
amount  of  timber,  which  is  found  mostly  in  groves : — the  largest  of  these  is  the 
Big  Woods.  They  lie  on  the  east  side,  and  adjoining  Fox  river,  and  are  about  10 
miles  in  length,  and  from  two  to  four  miles  wide,  containing  about  30  sections  of 
good  timbered  land.  This  tract  (provided  the  surveys  were  run)  would  lie  mostly 
in  township  30  and  39  north,  range  8  east  from  the  third  principal  meridian.  Its 
timber  consists  chiefly  of  white,  black,  yellow,  and  burr  oaks,  sugar  maple,  lynn  or 
bass  wood,  black  and  white  walnut  or  butternut  hickory,  ash  of  various  species, 
poplar,  iron-wood,  &c.  The  soil  is  generally  a  dark  sandy  loam,  sometimes  clay ; 
generally  a  little  undulating,  but  sometimes  quite  level. — The  "  Big  Woods"  is 
thickly  settled  on  all  sides,  and  the  Four-mile  Prairie,  between  that  and  Du  Page 
river,  is  all  claimed  and  considerably  settled,  as  is  the  country  opposite,  betwixt 
Fox  river  and  Blackberry  creek,  west. 

The  "  Little  Woods"  is  a  tract  of  timber,  about  four  miles  north  of  Big  Woods, 
also,  on  the  east  side  and  adjoining  Fox  river,  divided  from  Big  Woods  by  a  gap 


84  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 

of  prairie,  interspersed  in  places  with  little  groves  of  small  timber  and  barrens. 
It  is  about  half  the  size  of  the  latter;  its  timber  and  soil,  similar;  and  is  surrounded 
with  compact  settlements. 

The  whole  range  of  Fox  river  in  this  county  is  thickly  settled :  towns  and  vil- 
lages are  springing  up  as  if  by  magic,  Commencing  at  the  south  end  of  Kane 
county,  a  few  miles  above  the  boundary,  is  the  new  village  of  Yorkville.  The 
Fox  river  there,  is  to  be  dammed,  and  a  saw  and  grist  mill  already  contracted  to  be 
built.  Opposite  the  Big  Woods,  dams  are  thrown  across  Fox  river  in  five  places, 
and  saw-mills  erected.  At  the  prairie  in  the  "  Woods,"  three  miles  above  the 
"  Foot,"  at  the  Galena  stage  ford,  is  the  pleasant  village  of  Aurora.  A  flouring 
mill  is  here  in  operation.  Lowell,  at  the  "  Head"  of  Big  Woods,  and  Charleston, 
at  the  "  Foot"  of  Little  Woods,  are  growing  business  places ;  have  saw-mills  on 
Fox  river,  and  flouring-mills  going  up  at  the  present  season.  Geneva,  on  the  west 
bank  of  Fox  river,  and  nearly  equi-distant  from  Lowell  and  Charleston,  is  a  plea- 
sant place,  and  the  county  seat  of  this  county.  At  the  "  Head"  of  Little  Woods, 
and  five  miles  farther  up,  is  the  new  village  of  Elgin.  Here  is  a  dam,  and  mills 
are  building.  Eight  miles  further,  is  a  flouring-mill,  nearly  ready  to  run.  On  the 
whole,  Fox  river  is  one  of  the  best,  if  not  the  best  stream  in  the  state  for  extensive 
hydraulic  operations.  It  can  easily  bfe  rendered  navigable  by  slack-water,  abounds 
with  excellent  quarries  of  limestone  for  building  purposes,  and  beds  of  coal  have 
already  been  discovered  some  miles  above  its  m'outh.  The  first  white  man's  cabin 
erected  in  this  county,  was  built  in  the  vicinity  of  Big  Woods,  on  Fox  river,  but 
three  years  ago  last  fall ;  and  the  principal  settlements  and  improvements  have 
been  made  within  the  last  two  years,  and  by  a  population  from  most  of  the  states 
in  the  union.  The  predominant  character,  however,  is  eastern.  As  in  the  coun- 
tries from  whence  they  have  emigrated,  there  is  a  diversity  of  religious  sentiment. 
The  Baptist,  Presbyterian,  and  Methodist,  are  the  most  prevailing  denominations; 
probably  the  former  and  latter  are  the  most  numerous. 

KNOX  County  is  in  the  Military  Bounty  Tract,  and  nearly  central  between 
the  Mississippi  and  Illinois  rivers.  It  is  bounded  north  by  Henry,  east  by  Peoria 
and  Putnam,  south  by  Fulton,  and  west  by  Warren  and  Mercer  counties.  It  is 
thirty  miles  long,  and  from  thirty  to  thirty-four  in  breadth,  containing  792  square 
miles.  This  county  is  watered  by  Spoon  river  and  its  tributaries,  and  also  by  the 
head  streams  of  Henderson's  and  Pope's  rivers.  The  surface  is  generally  prairie, 
moderately  undulating,  and  of  first-rate  quality  of  soil,  with  considerable  tracts  of 
excellent  timber  along  the  water-courses.  The  inhabitants  amounted  in  1835  to 
1600. 

The  seat  of  justice,  Knoxville,  is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  head  of  Haw  creek, 
a  tributary  of  Spoon  ri\«er,  on  a  rich  and  elevated  prairie.  It  was  laid  off  a  few 
years  ago :  it  contains  about  200  inhabitants,  and  bids  fair  to  become  a  thriving 
inland  town.  The  surrounding  district  is  rich,  and  settling  fast  with  industrious 
farmers.  Hendersonville  and  Galesboro'  are  small  villages,  a  few  miles  from 
Knoxville. 

LA  SALLE  County  comprises  a  fine  tract  of  country,  48  miles  in  length,  and 
from  48  to  36  in  breadth,  containing  an  area  of  1872  square  miles.  It  is  bounded 
north  by  Kane  and  Ogle,  south  by  M'Lean  and  the  attached  part  of  Vermillion, 
east  by  Will,  and  west  by  Putnam  county.  It  is  watered  by  the  Illinois  river  and 
its  tributaries,  the  Big  and  Little  Vermillion,  and  Fox  and  Au  Sable  rivers ;  also 
by  Mason,  Indian,  and  Rock  creeks.  These  streams  run  generally  on  a  bed  of 
sand  or  limestone  rock,  and  have  but  little  alluvial  bottom  lands. 

La  Salle,  like  most  of  the  counties  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state,  is  deficient 
in  timber,  but  contains  abundance  of  rich  undulating,  dry  prairie,  fine  mill-streams, 
and  extensive  coal-beds,  and  must  eventually  become  a  rich  country.  Its  situation 
will  enable  the  people  to  send  off  their  produce  either  by  the  Illinois  river  to  a 
southern  market,  or  by  the  lakes  to  the  Atlantic  section  of  the  union.  This  county 
was  organized  in  1831,  and  in  1835  contained  a  population  of  4754. 

The  Starved  Rock,  or  Rock  Fort,  near  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  and  on  the  right 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  85 


bank  of  the  Illinois  river,  is  a  perpendicular  mass  of  lime  and  sandstone,  washed 
by  the  current  at  its  base,  and  elevated  150  feet  Its  perpendicular  sides,  arising 
from  the  river,  are  inaccessible.  It  is  connected  with  a  chain  of  heights  that  ex- 
tend up  the  stream,  by  a  narrow  ledge,  the  only  ascent  to  which  is  by  a  winding 
and  precipitous  path.  The  diameter  of  the  top  of  the  rock  is  about  100  feet:  it  is 
covered  with  a  soil  of  some  depth,  which  has  produced  a  growth  of  young  trees. 
The  advantages  which  it  affords  as  an  impregnable  retreat,  induced  a  band  of  Illi- 
nois Indians,  who  sought  a  refuge  from  the  fury  of  the  Potawatomies,  with  whom 
they  were  at  war,  to  intrench  themselves  here.  They  repulsed  all  the  assaults  of 
their  besiegers,  and  would  have  remained  masters  of  their  high  tower,  but  for  the 
impossibility  of  obtaining  supplies  of  water.  They  had  secured  provisions,  but  their 
only  resource  for  the  former  was  by  letting  down  vessels  with  bark  ropes  to  the  river. 
Their  enemies  stationed  themselves  in  canoes  at  the  base  of  the  clifls,  and  cut  off 
the  ropes  as  fast  as  they  were  let  down.  The  consequence  of  this  was  the  entire 
extirpation  of  the  band :  many  years  afterwards,  their  bones  were  whitening  on  the 
summit  An  intrenchment,  corresponding  to  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  is  distinctly 
visible;  and  fragments  of  antique  pottery,  and  other  curious  remains  of  the  vanished 
race,  are  strewn  around.  From  this  elevated  point,  the  Illinois  may  be  traced  as  it 
wmds  through  deep  and  solitary  forests  or  outspread  plains,  onward  to  the  Missis- 
sippi, until  it  disappears  from  the  vision  in  the  distance.  In  the  opposite  direction,  a 
prairie  stretches  out  and  blends  with  the  horizon. 

On  Indian  creek,  in  the  northern  part  of  the  county,  a  most  horrible  tragedy  was 
enacted  at  the  commencement  of  the  Indian  war  of  1832.  On  the  20th  of  May 
of  that  year,  fifteen  persons  belonging  to'the  families  of  Messrs.  Hall,  Daviess,  and 
Pettigrew,  were  barbarously  massacred  by  the  Indians.  Two  young  ladies,  Misses 
Halls,  were  taken  prisoners,  and  afterwanfe  redeemed,  and  two  young  lads  made 
their  escape.  The  bodies  of  men,  women,  and  children,  were  shockingly  mutilated, 
the  houses  of  the  settlers  burned,  their  furniture  destroyed,  and  their  cattle  killed 
— all  in  daylight,  and  within  twenty  miles  of  a  laSfe  force  of  the  militia.  This 
was  done  by  the  Indians  under  the  infamous  Black  Hawk.  A  portion  of  that  band 
were  exterminated  during  the  same  season  by  the  combined  forces  of  United  States 
troops  and  Illinois  militia,  and  the  remainder  dispersed  over  the  prairies  west  of  the 
Mississippi. 

The  seat  of  justice  of  La  Salle  county  is  Ottawa,  at  the  junction  of  the  Illinois 
and  Fox  rivers.  This  is  considered  a  very  eligible  site  for  a  commercial  town. 
The  canal  now  in  progress  of  construction  from  lake  Michigan  to  the  Illinois  river 
will  pass  through  it,  and  add  greatly  to  its  prosperity.  The  other  towns  are  Dres- 
den and  Kankakee,  both  at  the  junction  of  the  Des  Plaines  and  Kankakee  rivers; 
Marseilles  and  Mechanicsville  above,  and  Utica,  Rockwell,  Peru,  and  Enterprize, 
below,  Ottawa :  these  are  all  on  the  Illinois.  There  are  also  Lowell  on  the  Ver- 
million  river,  and  Vermillionville,  about  a  mile  east  of  the  same  stream.  Of  these 
towns,  Peru,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Illinois,  and  at  the  western  termination  of 
the  Michigan  and  Illinois  canal,  bids  fair  to  become  of  importance.  Steamboats 
can  reach  it  at  all  stages  of  the  river ;  and  on  the  completion  of  the  canal,  an  easy 
and  safe  transmission  to  and  from  this  place  may  be  had  at  all  times,  except  when 
the  waters  are  bound  with  ice. 

Marseilles  is  a  post  town  on  the  north  side  of  the  Illinois  river :  at  the  Grand 
river,  eight  miles  above  Ottawa,  a  chartered  company  is  engaged  in  constructing 
dams,  mills,  &c.  Flour  and  lumber  are  made  here,  and  the  water-power  is  immense 
and  easily  commanded.  The  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal  will  pass  through  it,  and 
it  already  assumes  the  aspect  of  a  bustling,  enterprizing  village. 

LAWRENCE  County,  erected  in  1821  from  a  part  of  Edwards  and  Crawford, 
is  situated  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  state,  and  adjoining  Indiana,  from  which  it  is 
separated  by  the  Wabash  river.  It  has  on  the  north  Crawford  and  Jasper,  on  the 
south  Wabash  and  Edwards  counties,  on  the  east  the  Wabash  river,  and  on  the 
west  Clay  county.  From  east  to  west  its  greatest  extent  is  31,  and  from  north  to 
south  19  miles;  containing  an  area  of  about  560  square  miles.  This  county  is 
watered  by  the  Embarras  river  and  its  tributaries,  as  well  as  by  the  head  waters 

8 


86  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


on  the  Bon  Pas,  and  the  Fox  river  of  the  Little  Wabash.  The  banks  of  all  these 
streams  are  low  and  subject  to  inundations.  This  is  the  case  particularly  with  re- 
spect to  the  Embarras  and  the  branches  of  the  Little  Wabash.  It  not  unfrequently 
occurs,  that  the  bottoms  of  those  streams,  which  are  more  than  two  miles  in  width, 
are  covered  with  from  four  to  eight  feet  of  water,  so  as  to  render  them  entirely 
impassable;  of  course,  travelling  during  these  seasons  is  rendered  difficult  and  un- 
pleasant. In  the  low  prairies  near  the  Wabash,  there  are  quagmires,  called  by  the 
common  people  purgatory  swamps,  or  demVs  holes ;  the  surface  of  these  appears 
dry  and  level,  but  it  generally  rests  on  quicksands.  Over  some  of  these,  bridges 
and  levees  are  now  constructed.  In  a  dry  season,  the  water  evaporates,  and  the 
ground  becomes  firm.  A  great  proportion  of  the  land  in  the  interior,  and  at  a  short 
distance  from  the  stream,  is  prairie,  most  of  which  is  fertile.  The  inhabitants  of 
this  county,  in  1835,  amounted  to  4450. 

Lawrenceville,  the  county  seat,  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Embarras 
river,  about  ten  miles  west  of  Vincennes,  on  the  direct  road  to  Vandalia,  from 
which  place  it  is  distant  eighty-four  miles.  It  is  on  an  elevated  ridge,  in  the  cen- 
tre of  a  fertile  and  well-settled  country,  and  contains  three  stores,  two  groceries, 
two  taverns,  and  sixty  or  seventy  families ;  the  court-house  is  of  brick,  and  is  a 
respectable  building.  A  saw  and  grist  mill  is  in  operation  on  the  Embarras,  ad- 
joining the  town.  Lawrenceville  exports  annually  to  the  value  if  about  50,000 
dollars,  and  imports  30,000  dollars. 

The  other  towns  in  the  countyare  Stringtown,  on  the  Embarras  river,  above  Law- 
renceville ;  Russellville,  on  the  Wabash,  in  the  north-east  corner  of  the  county ; 
and  Smallsburg,  a  few  miles  below  Lawrenceville,  on  the  Embarras.  There  are 
several  populous  settlements  in  different  parts  of  the  county ;  such  as,  Allison's 
Prairie,  French,  Lukens'  Prairie,  and  River  Precinct  settlements. 

Allison's  Prairie,  five  miles  north-east  from  Lawrenceville,  is  ten  miles  long, 
and  five  broad.  The  eastern  part,  towards  the  Wabash,  contains  some  wet  land 
and  purgatory  swamps,  but  the  principal  part  is  a  dry,  sandy,  and  very  rich  soil, 
covered  with  well-cultivated  farms,  Few  tracts  in  Illinois  are  better  adapted  for 
the  culture  of  corn  than  this.  The  population  is  about  200  families.  This  prairie 
was  settled  in  1816  and  1817,  by  emigrants  from  Ohio  and  Kentucky,  and  mostly 
of  the  religious  sect  known  in  the  west  by  the  name  .of  Christians ;  and  the  settle- 
ment is  sometimes  called  by  that  name.  In  a  few  years,  death  had  thinned  their 
numbers.  The  purgatory  swamps,  as  they  are  called,  around  the  prairie,  had  a 
deleterious  influence,  and-retarded  the  progress  of  population.  In  later  years,  but 
little  sickness  has  existed;  and  this  settlement  furnishes  one  of  many  evidences 
that  upon  the  subjugation  of  the  luxuriant  vegetation  with  which  our  rich  prairies 
are  clothed,  and  the  cultivation  of  the  soil,  sickly  places  will  be  changed  to  healthy 
ones. 

French  settlement,  in  the  south-east  part  of  the  county,  is  ten  miles  from  Law- 
renceville. It  is  a  timbered  tract,  and  rather  broken.  Of  the  population,  which 
consists  of  about  sixty  families,  one-half  are  French. 

The  Indian  Creek  settlement  is  on  Indian  creek,  a  branch  of  the  Embarras  river, 
which  rises  in  the  prairies  west,  runs  south-east,  and  enters  that  stream  five  miles 
below  Lawrenceville.  It  has  much  good  land  in  its  vicinity,  both  timber  and 
prairie,  and  a  population  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  families. 

Lukens1  Prairie  Settlement  is  in  the  south-western  part  of  the  county,  from 
twenty  to  twenty-five  miles  from  Lawrenceville.  It  has  a  population  of  from  sev- 
enty to  eighty  families. 

The  River  Precinct  Settlement  extends  along  the  Wabash  river,  opposite  Vin- 
cennes. It  is  on  a  rich  bottom  heavily  timbered,  and  contains  sixty  or  seventy 
families. 

LIVINGSTON  County  was  formed  in  1837  from  La  Salle,  M'Lean,  and  part 
of  the  attached  portion  of  Vermillion  county.  It  is  in  extent  from  east  to  west 
from  30  to  36  miles,  and  from  north  to  south  30,  and  contains  an  area  of  1152 
square  miles.  It  is  watered  by  the  Vermillion  river  of  the  Illinois,  and  its  tribu- 
taries, which  flow  through  the  northern  half  of  the  county  from  south-east  to  north- 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  87 

west.  This  is  a  fine  mill-stream  of  about  50  yards  wide,  and  runs  through  exten- 
sive beds  of  bituminous  coal.  Its  bluffs  contain  immense  quarries  of  lime,  sand, 
and  some  freestone  excellent  for  grindstones.  The  other  streams  are,  the  Mack- 
inaw and  its  branches,  and  some  of  the  tributaries  of  Mason's  creek.  This  county 
contains  a  large  quantity  of  rich  undulating  prairie,  and  some  fine  tracts  of  .valua- 
ble timber  land,  mostly  oaks  of  various  kinds,  walnut,  ash,  sugar-maple,  hickory,  &c. 
The  principal  minerals  are  limestone  and  coal. 

Its  seat  of  justice  is  not  yet  laid  off.  The  only  towns  in  the  county  are  Webster 
and  Lexington :  the  former  has  been  recently  located  in  the  north-west  part,of  the 
county,  about  two  miles  south-west  from  Vermillion  river.  Lexington  is  situated 
about  18  miles  north-east  from  Bloomington,  on  the  road  to  Chicago. 

The  population  of  Livingston  county  is  estimated  at  from  700  to  800. 

MACON  County  is  bounded  north  by  M'Lean,  south  by  Shelby,  east  by  Cham- 
paign and  Coles,  and  west  by  Sangarnon  county.  It  extends  from  north  to  south 
39  miles,  and  from  east  to  west  36,  forming  an  area  of  1404  square  miles.  It  is 
watered  by  the  north  fork  of  Sangamon  river  and  its  tributaries ;  also,  by  some  of 
the  head  branches  of  Kaskaskia  river,  and  by  Salt  creek.  This  county  is  mostly 
covered  with  prairies,  some  of  which  are  extensive,  and  in  the  interior  level  and 
wet,  but  generally  dry,  rich,  and  undulating,  near  the  timber.  Macon  county  was 
formed  from  the  attached  part  of  Shelby  in  1829,  and  in  1835  contained  a  popula- 
tion of  3022  inhabitants. 

Decatur,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  North  Fork  of 
Sangamon  river,  and  on  the  borders  of  an  extensive,  dry,  and  elevated  prairie, 
about  70  miles  north  from  Vandalia,  and  770  from  Washington  City. 

Clinton,  24  miles  north  of  Decatur,  and  about  half-way  between  that  place  and 
Bloomington,  is  a  thriving  town,  and  beautifully  situated  on  the  prairie,  which  over- 
looks a  large  district  of  country.  The  Salt  cjeek  timber  approaches  near  the  town 
on  the  south,  from  which  it  diverges  in  a  north-easftrn  direction  till  it  passes  be- 
yond the  reach  of  vision.  Both  sides  of  the  creek  are  well  settled.  The  timber 
is  excellent  and  sufficient,  and  the  prairies  beautifully  rolling.  The  country  adja- 
cent will,  of  course,  admit  of  dense  settlement.  r  Clinton  is  on  the  line  of  the 
Central  rail-road,  and  probably  in  a  short  time  it  will  become  a  county  seat  for  a 
new  county,  comprising  parts  of  the  present  counties  of  Macon  and  M'Lean.  The 
convenience  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  country  adjacent  would  seem  to  call,  at  a 
proper  time,  for  such  an  arrangement  Of  such  importance  has  this  town  site  been 
considered,  that  speculators  from  a  distance  have  entered  all  the  land  in  its  neigh- 
bourhood. Clinton  is  among  the  few  new  towns  which  have  started  up  in  this 
town-speculating  age,  that  will  grow  into  importance.  The  site  of  the  town,  the 
heavy  settlements  around  it,  the  beautiful,  fertile,  and  healthy  country  adjacent,  all 
seem  to  unite  in  demonstrating  this  truth. 

Franklin,  on  Salt  creek,  about  20  miles  in  a  north-north-west  direction,  and 
Murfreesborough,  on  the  Sangamon  river,  16  miles  north-east  from  Decatur,  are 
small  towns,  lately  settled.  Okau  Settlement,  in  the  south-eastern  part  of  the 
county,  20  miles  from  Decatur,  lies  on  the  West  Fork  of  the  Kaskaskia,  and  con- 
tains 20  or  30  families.  Salt  creek  Settlement,  20  miles  north  from  Decatur,  con- 
sists of  about  100  families.  The  land  is  good,  with  plenty  of  prairie. 

MADISON  County  is  situated  in  the  western  part  of  the  state,  and  opposite 
the  mouth  of  the  Missouri  river.  It  was  organized  in  1812,  and  at  first  was  much 
more  extensive  than  at  present.  It  is  bounded  north  by  Greene,  Macoupin,  and 
Montgomery  counties ;  south  by  St.  Clair,  east  by  Bond  and  Clinton,  and  west  by 
the  Mississippi  river,  which  separates  it  from  the  state  of  Missouri.  It  extends  in 
an  east  and  west  direction  from  36  to  30  miles,  and  from  north  to  south  24 ;  area, 
about  760  square  miles.  This  county,  both  on  account  of  its  soil  and  situation,  pos- 
sesses great  advantages.  Part  of  it  lies  in  the  American  Bottom,  which  is  a  low 
alluvion  of  great  fertility,  but  subject  to  inundation.  It  extends  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Kaskaskia  river  to  Alton,  a  few  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi : 
above  this,  the  bank  is  high,  watered  by  fine  springs,  and  contains  building  stone, 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


and  coal  of  the  best  quality.  The  interior  of  the  county  is  generally  elevated  and 
undulating,  though  not  hilly.  On  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  below  Alton,  it  is 
low  and  wet,  and  in  many  places  very  marshy.  No  soil,  however,  can  exceed  it 
in  fertility.  Upon  ascending  the  bluff  which  bounds  this  bottom  upon  the  east, 
there  is  a  district  of  country  which  continues  eastward  to  the  Kaskaskia  river,  and 
is  called  the  Table-Land.  This  is  also  very  fertile,  and  is  considered  one  of  the 
most  desirable  tracts  in  the  state.  The  banks  of  the  streams  which  run  through 
the  interior  of  this  county  are  generally  well  wooded,  leaving  between  them  prai- 
ries of  considerable  size,  though  very  fertile,  and  very  advantageously  situated  for 
settlement.  Wheat,  corn,  beef,  pork,  horses,  cattle,  and  almost  every  production 
of  Illinois,  are  raised  in  this  county,  and  find  a  ready  market  Madison  county,  in 
1835,  contained  9016  inhabitants. 

Monk  Hill,  situated  on  the  American  Bottom,  is  eight  miles  north-easterly  from 
St.  Louis.  The  circumference  at  the  base,  is  about  600  yards,  and  its  height  about 
90  feet  On  the  south  side,  about  half-way  down,  is  a  broad  step,  or  apron,  about 
15  feet  wide.  This  hill,  or  mount,  was  the  residence,  for  several  years,  of  the 
monks  of  the  order  of  La  Trappe,  the  most  rigid  and  austere  of  all  the  monkish 
orders.  Their  monastery  was  originally  situated  in  the  district  of  Perche,  in 
France,  in  one  of  the  most  lonely  spots  that  could  be  chosen.  They  fled  from  the 
commotions  of  that  kingdom  to  America,  lived  for  a  time  in  Kentucky,  and  came 
to  Illinois  in  1806  or  1807,  and  settled  on  this  mound.  They  cultivated  a  garden, 
repaired  watches,  and  traded  with  the  people,  but  were  generally  filthy  in  their 
habits,  and  extremely  severe  in  their  penances  and  discipline.  In  1813,  they  sold 
off  their  personal  property,  and  left  the  country  for  France. 

Ridge  Prairie  commences  near  Edwardsville,  and  extends  south  to  St.  Clair 
county.  It  is  on  the  dividing  ridge,  between  the  waters  that  fall  into  the  Missis- 
sippi west,  and  those  that  flow  to  the  Kaskaskia  east.  Originally  this  prairie 
extended  into  St.  Clair  county  as  far  south  as  Belleville ;  but  long  since,  where 
farms  have  not  been  made;  it  has  been  intersected  by  a  luxuriant  growth  of  timber* 
Its  surface  is  gently  undulating,  the  soil  rich,  and  is  surrounded  and  indented  with 
many  fine  farms. 

Marine  Settlement,  between  the  east  and  west  forks  of  Silver  Creek,  and  12 
miles  east  of  Edwardsville,  was  commenced  in  1819.  The  settlement  is  large,  and 
spread  over  an  undulating,  rich,  and  beautiful  prairie,  and  is  healthful  and  well 
watered. 

Paddock's  Settlement  is  on  the  Springfield  road,  seven  miles  north  of  Edwards- 
ville. The  prairie  is  undulating,  fertile,  and  healthy. 

Edwardsville  is  the  seat  of  justice  of  this  county,  and  is  situated  in  the  centre 
of  a  fertile,  well  watered,  and  well  timbered  district,  settled  with  enterprizing 
farmers.  It  is  21  miles  north-east  from  St.  Louis,  and  12  miles  south-east  from 
Alton. 

The  other  towns  are,  Alton,  Upper  Alton,  Collinsville,  Troy,  Chippewa,  Clifton, 
and  Randolph.  The  latter  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Piasau,  on  the  Missis- 
sippi, about  equal  distance  between  Alton  and  Grafton.  It  is  laid  out  above  the 
Piasau,  and  betwixt  that  stream  and  the  Mississippi,  on  table-land,  above  the 
highest  floods.  Abundance  of  limestone  and  good  timber,  water  privileges  and 
never-failing  springs,  a  good  landing  for  steamboats,  and  other  advantages,  are 
found  here.  Lots  to  the  value  of  $20,000  have  been  sold  this  spring,  and  buildings 
are  in  process  of  erection,  especially  a  large  hotel. 

Clifton  is  on  the  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  four  miles  above  Alton,  and  has  been 
recently  laid  out  Collinsville  is  situated  in  the  south  part  of  the  county.  It  con- 
tains a  store,  a  large  mill  for  sawing  and  grinding,  and  several  mechanics.  A 
meeting-house,  and  Presbyterian  church  of  fifty  members,  a  large  Sabbath-school, 
and  a  body  of  sober,  moral,  and  industrious  citizens,  render  this  an  interesting  set- 
tlement Chippewa  is  directly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  two  miles  below 
Alton,  and  has  been  but  lately  laid  out.  A  steam-mill,  and  several  other  buildings, 
are  now  erecting. 

MACOUPIN  County  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Sangamon  and  Morgan,  south 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


by  Madison,  east  by  Montgomery,  and  west  by  Greene.  It  ia  36  miles  in  length, 
and  24  in  breadth ;  area,  864  square  miles.  The  county  is  watered  by  Macoupin 
creek  and  its  branches,  as  well  as  by  the  head-waters  of  Apple,  Cahohok,  Silver, 
and  Piasau  creeks,  and  Wood  river.  This  is  a  fine  agricultural  country,  settled 
by  enterprizing  and  industrious  farmers.  The  surface  consists  mostly  of  prairies, 
slightly  undulating,  of  which  the  chief  part  is  of  an  excellent  soil,  and  contains  a 
due  proportion  of  timber,  mostly  along  the  water-courses.  Macoupin  county  was 
organized  from  the  attached  portion  of  Greene  county  in  1829,  and  in  1835  con- 
tained a  population  of  5554  persons. 

Carlinville,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  pleasantly  situated  in  a  handsome  prairie,  about 
two  miles  north-west  from  Macoupin  creek :  it  is  35  miles  north-east  from  Alton, 
and  55  miles  north-west  from  Vandalia;  containing  about  350  inhabitants,  with 
several  stores,  one  grocery,  two  lawyers,  and  two  physicians.  The  other  towns 
are  small,  and  but  recently  settled :  they  are,  Girard,  Staunton,  Woodburn,  and 
Brooklyn. 

MARION  County  was  formed  from  Jefferson  and  Fayette  counties,  in  1823: 
it  is  24  miles  square,  and  contains  an  area  of  576  square  miles:  it  is  situated  about 
midway  between  the  Mississippi  and  Wabash  rivers,  and  is  bounded  north  by  Fay- 
ette and  Clay  counties,  south  by  Jefferson,  east  by  Clay  and  Wayne,  and  west  by 
Clinton  and  Fayette.  Marion  coonty  is  watered  by  the  East  P'ork  of  Kaskaskia 
river  and  Crooked  creek,  also  by  the  Skillet  Fork  of  the  Little  Wabash  and  its 
tributaries.  It  embraces  the  southern  part  of  the  Grand  Prairie,  which  constitutes 
about  two-thirds  of  its  surface:  the  remainder  is  timber,  much  of  which  is  post 
oak.  The  soil  is  for  the  most  part  of  second-rate  quality,  the  surface  slightly  un- 
dulating, with  some  of  the  prairies  level,  and  inclining  to  the  west. 

Walnut  Hill  Settlement  is  in  the  south-west  part  of  the  county,  from  12  to  14 
miles  distant  from  Salem.  It  is  on  the  Walnut  Hill  Prairie,  and  contains  a  popu- 
lation of  about  75  families.  Some  parts  of  the  prairie  are  tolerably  good ;  others, 
rather  flat  and  wet  It  is  about  four  miles  long,  and  three  broad.  The  population 
in  1835  amounted  to  2844. 

Salem,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  situated  on  the  eastern  border  of  the  Grand  Prairie, 
on  the  Vincennes  and  St.  Louis  stage-road :  it  is  a  pleasant  village,  of  about  160 
inhabitants. 

MDONOUGH  County  is  situated  in  the.  Military  Bounty  Tract,  and  at  nearly 
an  equal  distance  from  the  Mississippi  and  Illinois  rivers :  it  forms  a  square  territory 
of  24  miles  each  way,  containing  an  area  of  576  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  Warren  county,  south  by  Schuyler,  east  by  Fulton,  and  west  by  Han- 
cock. The  streams  which  water  this  county  are  Crooked  creek  and  its  branches, 
Drowning  Fork,  Troublesome  creek,  Turkey  creek,  and  others :  most  of  these 
have  good  mill-seats  for  a  portion  of  the  year.  The  soil  is  chiefly  a  rich  and  fertile 
prairie,  not  excelled  by  any  in  this  region.  About  one  half  of  the  eastern  and 
northern  part  of  the  county  is  prairie ;  the  remainder  is  suitably  proportioned  into 
timber  and  prairie.  M'Donough  county  was  laid  off  from  Pike  in  1825,  but  was 
not  organized  till  1829:  in  1835,  it  contained  2883  inhabitants. 

Macomb,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  pleasantly  situated  in  a  fertile  prairie  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  county,  about  two  miles  south  of  the  Drowning  Fork  of  Crooked  creek. 
It  contains  a  population  of  about  100  persons,  and  has  three  stores,  and  one  grocery. 

Carter's  Settlement  is  near  the  south  part  of  the  county,  12  miles  from  Macomb, 
on  the  joad  to  Rushville.  The  land  is  gently  undulating,  soil  rich,  timber  and  prai- 
rie proportioned,  and  an  extensive  settlement.  It  is  in  the  south  part  of  four  north, 
two  west,  between  the  heads  of  Sugar  creek  and  Grindstone  fork.  This  is  the 
oldest  settlement  in  the  county.  Edmonson's  Prairie,  six  miles  south-west  from 
Macomb,  is  from  one  to  two  miles  wide,  ten  miles  long,  and  contains  25  or  30 
families. 

]\F HENRY  County  occupies  the  north-eastern  corner  of  the  state,  and  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  Walworth  and  Racine  counties  of  Wisconsin  Territory, 

M  8* 


90  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


south  by  Cook  and  Kane  counties,  east  by  lake  Michigan,  and  west  by  Boone  coun- 
ty. It  contains  an  area  of  about  1100  square  miles,  and  is  in  extent  from  east  to 
west  from  47  to  42  miles,  and  from  north  to  south  24.  It  is  watered  by  the  Fox, 
Des  Planes,  and  Chicag9  rivers  and  their  branches,  together  with  several  small 
lakes,  of  which  some  have  limpid  waters  in  gravelly  beds,  with  ridges  of  gravel 
and  sand  around  them.  Groves  of  fine  timber  are  found  along  the  lake  shores  and 
on  the  banks  of  the  streams,  and  also  distributed  through  the  prairies.  The  county 
is  well  watered,  the  streams  perennial,  and  the  soil  rich  and  covered  with  luxuri- 
ant herbage.  The  county  is  filfmg  up  rapidly  with  an  enterprizing  population,  now 
estimated  at  from  1000  to  1200  souls.  The  seat  of  justice  is  not  yet  located.  The 
only  town  in  the  county  is  M'Henry,  situated  on  the  west  side  of  Fox  river,  and 
about  12  miles  south  of  the  northern  boundary  of  the  state.  It  is  surrounded  with 
excellent  prairie  and  timber  in  groves,  and  oak  openings  or  barrens.' 

]\FLEAN  County  was  organized  in  1830,  and  was  tmtil  lately  one  of  the  larg- 
est counties  in  the  state.  It  is  in  extent  from  north  to  south  from  48  to  24  miles, 
and  from  east  to  west  from  1$  to  42,  having  an  area  of  1296  sqnare  miles.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  La  Salle  and  Livingston  counties,  south  by  Macon  and 
Sangamon,  east  by  Champaign  afld  J;he  attached  part  of  Vermillion,  and  west  by 
Tazewell.  The  streams  which  npw  through  this  county  are  the  western  branch 
of  the  north  fork  of  Sangamon  river,  and  the  head-waters  of  Mackinaw,  Sugar, 
Kickapoo,  and  Salt  creeks ;  thesa  all  take  their  rise  in  the  county,  and  furnish, 
when  the  waters  are  not  too  low,  good  mill-seats.  A  considerable  portion  of  the 
eastern  and  northern  part  of  the  county  is  one  vast  prairie,  with  the  surface  ele- 
vated, moderately  undulating,  and  the  soil  dry  and  fertile.  Large  tracts  of  fine 
timber  land,  beautifully  arranged  in  groves  of  varjpus  shapes  and  dimensions,  are 
found,  from  those  of  15  or  18  square  miles  dow/fto  those  of  a  few  acres.  Of  the 
minerals,  limestone  and  coal  abound  in  several  settlements ;  granite,  in  detached 
masses,  or  boulders,  called  by  the  settlers  lost  rocks,  are  plentifully  scattered  over 
the  country,  and  are  used  for  millstones.  M'Lean  county  contained,  in  1835,  a 
population  of  5311  individuals. 

From  Salt  creek,  26  miles  south  of  Bloomington,  following  the  road  from  Deca- 
tur  to  the  former  place,  the  country  is  beautifully  undulating.  Elegant  elections 
for  farms  and  dwellings  are  constantly  arresting  the  attention  of  the  traveller;  and 
he  only  regrets  that  the  beautiful  coqntry  around  him  should  remain  in  its  native 
wilderness,  while  thousands  upon  thousands  ot  farmers  in  the  eastern  states, — in- 
telligent, industrious,  and  most  excellent  citizens, — are  expending  their  best  ener- 
gies upon  a  comparatively  sterile  soil,  foe  an  almost  bare  support ;  while  here,  with 
the  same  application  to  business,  they  would  secure  competence  and  independence, 
and  lay  the  foundation  for  the  future  wealth  and  happiness  of  their  children.  To 
secure  these  advantages,  however,  enterprize  is  necessary — sufficient,  at  least,  to 
bring  them  hither.  True,  wSJ cannot  but  appreciate  the  feelings  which  prompt 
them  to  remain  on  spots  whion  are  rendered  almost  sacred  by  the  thousand  associa- 
tions which  all  generous  hearts  are  sure  to  feel ;  but  with  the  aspiring  youth,  or 
the  father  of  a  family,  there  are  considerations  of  a  still  more  elevated  character, 
which  might  well  lead  them  to  seek  to  better  their  condition  by  emigrating  to  the 
west. 

There  are  in  the  county  several  groves  of  timber,  fertile  and  desirable  tracts, 
well  settled  with  an  industrious  and  thriving  population.  The  chief  of  them  are 
Big,  Blooming,  Cheyney's,  Dry,  Funk's,  and  Randolph's  groves. 

Big  Grove  is  formed  of  several  groves  of  timber  connected,  for  12  miles  in 
length,  in  the  south-western  part  of  the  county,  on  the  third  principal  meridian, 
and  township  21  north.  It  is  a  fine  tract  of  country,  rich  in  soil  and  well  timbered, 
on  the  Kickapoo  creek.  Bloomington,  the  county  seat,  is  18  miles  from  the  heart 
of  the  settlement,  which  contains  from  150  to  200  families. 

Blooming  Grove  adjoins  Bloomington.  It  is  about  six  miles  long  from  north- 
west to  south-east,  and  varying  in  width  from  one  to  four  miles,  containing  about 
12  square  miles  of  beautiful  timber,  with  a  large  settlement  of  industrious  farmers 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  91 

around  it  Nearly  all  the  land  is  already  occupied  with  settlers,  a  majority  of 
whom  are  from  Ohio.  JJoth  timbered  land  and  prairie  are  first-rate. 

Cheyney's  Grove  settlement  is  near  the  head-waters  of  the  Sangamon,  in  the 
east  part  of  the  county,  twenty-three  north,  six  east.  This  timber  is  an  island  in 
the  great  prairie  of  three  or  four  square  miles,  25  miles  east  of  Bloomington,  and 
on  the  \road  to  Danville.  The  population  is  24  families. 

Dry  Grove  is  in  township  twenty-four  north,  range  one  east,  and  about  six  miles 
north  of  west  from  Bloomington,  and  lies  at  the  head  of  Sugar  creek.  It  is  about 
10  miles  long  from  east  to  west,  high,  dry,  and  undulating,  and  contains  a  settle- 
ment of  about  50  families. 

Funk's  Grove  settlement  is  12  miles  south-west  from  Bloomington.  The  grove 
is  roundish  in  form,  contains  about  eight  square  miles,  and  lies  on  the  main  branch 
of  Sugar  creek.  It  has  an  excellent  soil,  fine  water,  and  is  monopolized  by  a 
family  connection  of  the  name  of  Funk,  from  Ohio,  who  raise  large  numbers  of 
cattle. 

Randolph's  Grove,  on  Kickapoo  creek,  above  Big  Grove,  is  about  12  miles  south 
from  Bloomington.  In  shape  it  is  almost  circular,  and  is  a  valuable  tract  of  land, 
containing  limestone,  and  a  population  of  about  40  families.  The  grove  comprises 
about  12  sections  of  timbered  land. 

Bloomington,  the  county  town,  occupies  an  elevated  position  on  the  margin  of  a 
fine  prairie,  120  miles  north  from  Vandalia,  an3  820  from  Washington  City.  The 
other  towns  in  the  county  have  been  butjately*\aid  off,  and  are  as  yet  inconsidera- 
ble :  they  are,  Hudson,  Le  Roy,  Lytleville,  Charleston,  and  Waynesville.  The 
latter  is  in  the  south-west  corner  of  the  county,  on  the  road  from  Springfield  to 
Bloomington,  and  on  the  south  side  of  the  timber  of  Kickapoo  creek.  It  has  six 
stores,  two  groceries,  two  physicians,  a  Methodist  and  a  Presbyterian  society,  a 
good  school,  and  a  charter  for  a  seminary  of  learning.  It  has  a  fine  body  of  timber 
on  the  north,  and  a  rich,  undulating,  and  beautiful  prairie  south.  Population  in  the 
village,  about  150. 

'  «-.•'- 

MERCER  County  is  situated  in  the  ntkthern  part  of  the  Military  Bounty 
Tract  It  lies  north  of  Warren,  south  "of  RSk.  Island,  west  of  Henry,  and  east 
of  Louisa  and  Musquitine  counties,  Wisconsin  Territory,  from  which  it  is  separated 
by  <fte  Mississippi  river.  Edwards  and.  Pope's  rivers,  and  the  north  fork  of  Hen- 
derson's river,  ar%the  streams  which  water  this  county,  along  the  Mississippi  and 
the  borders  of  its  w^er-cours'es.  There  is  a  great  abundance  of  excellent  timber : 
its  middle  and  eastern  portions  have  extensive  tracts  of  fertile  prairies.  Mercer 
was  laid  off  in  1825,  and  contained  in  1835  a  population  of  497  inhabitants. 

The  town  of  Mercer  is  located  in  the  exact  geographical  centre,  and  with  the 
express  view  of  its  becoming  the  county  seat  of  Mercer  county.  It  is  situated 
mid-way  between  Pope's  and  Edwards  rivers,  which  run  through  the  county  paral- 
lel to  each  other,  and  at  this  point  are  not  more  than  five  miles  apart.  The  site 
is  healthy  and  elevated,  commanding  a  beautiful  view  of  the  surrounding  country, 
which  is  as  rich  and  well  adapted  to  the  culture  of  wheat,  and  indeed  all  kinds  ol 
jjrain  as  any  in  the  state.  The  county  is  settling  rapidly  with  .1  moral,  industrious, 
and  enterprizing  population.  The  water-power  afforded  by  Pope's  and  Edwards 
rivers  is  equal  to  that  of  any  county  in  the  state ;  a  circumstance  of  much  impor- 
tance, not  only  on  account  of  furnishing  lumber  for  building,  but  for  the  erection 
of  grain  and  flouring  mills.  There  is  one  saw-mill  now  in  operation  within  two 
and  a  half  miles  of  Mercer,  and  several  others  will  be  built  the  approaching  sea- 
son, also  within  a  few  miles  of  the  town.  The  situation  of  Mercer  admits  of  con- 
venient access  to  the  timber,  stone,  and  stone-coal,  of  both  Pope's  and  Edwards 
rivers  and  their  branches.  Mercer  is  situated  about  14  miles  from  New  Boston,  on 
the  Mississippi ;  at  which  there  is  an  excellent  landing.  It  is  also  on  the  direcl 
route  from  the  latter  place  to  Hennepin,  and  from  Oquawka  to  Rock  Island. 

New  Boston,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  the  only  other  town  in  the  county,  and  is 
situated  at  the  Upper  Yellow  Bank,  just  above  Edwards  river,  nearly  opposite  the 
mouth  of  the  Lower  Iowa,  a  considerable  stream  of  the  Wisconsin  Territory,  as 
extensive  (os  the  Illinois.  This  place  has  a  good  landing,  and  a  fine  harbour ;  and 


92  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


when  the  opposite  territory  becomes  settled,  it  cannot  fail  to  become  a  town  of  con- 
siderable importance,  as  it  will  be  the  commercial  entrepot  for  a  large  extent  of 
fertile  country. 

MONROE  County,  in  the  south-western  part  of  the  state,  is  situated  north  of 
Randolph,  south  of  St.  Clair,  and  west  of  the  state  of  Missouri,  from  which  it  is 
separated  by  the  Mississippi  river.  The  interior  of  this  county  is  watered  by  Prai- 
rie du  Long-,  Horse,  and  1'Aigle  creeks,  and  their  branches.  The  western  part, 
bordering  on,  and  parallel  to,  the  Mississippi  river,  is  occupied  by  the  American 
Bottom,  a  rich  and  fertile  alluvion,  subject  to  overflow  from  the  river.  East  of  this, 
the  country  is  generally  broken  and  hilly.  On  the  eastern  border  of  the  county, 
there  is  a  considerable  proportion  of  good  land,  with  a  due  mixture  of  timber  and 
prairie.  This  is  a  rich  county,  and  exports  a  considerable  quantity  of  produce. 
Here  is  abundance  of  limestone,  coal,  and  some  copper. 

Waterloo,  the  seat  of  justice  of  Monroe  county,  situated  on  elevated  ground, 
about  12  miles  east  of  the  Mississippi  river,  is  a  small  village  of  about  120  inhab- 
itants. Columbia  and  Harrisonville  are  the  only  other  villages.  This  county  was 
formed  out  of  Randolph  and  St.  Clair  in  1816,  and  in  1835  contained  266C>  inhabit- 
ants. English  Settlement,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  county,  contains  about  40 
families,  among  whom  are  a  number  of  English  Catholics.  It  is  in  township  three 
south,  and  range  eight  west,  on  Prairie  du  Long  creek. 

MONTGOMERY  County  is  situated  north  of  Bond  and  Fayette,  south  of  San- 
gamon, east  of  Macoupin,  and  west  of  Shelby  and  Fayette  counties,  and  extends 
m  length  from  36  to  21  miles,  and  in  breadth  from  30  to  24 ;  containing  an  area 
of  954  square  miles.  This  county  is  watered  by  branches  of  the  north  fork  of  the 
Sangamon  river,  also  by  Shoal,  Macoupin,  and  Ramsey  creeks,  and  their  tributaries, 
It  contains  a  considerable  proportion  of  prairie  land,  which  is  generally  high  and 
undulating.  It  was  erected  from  Bond  county  in  1821,  and  in  1835  the  inhabitants 
amounted  to  3740. 

Hillsborough,  the  county  town,  is  a  healthful  and  thriving  place,  of  about  300 
inhabitants,  on  the  main  road  from  Vandalia  to  Springfield,  28  miles  north-west 
from  the  former.  It  is  situated  in  an  elevated  country,  near  the  middle  fork  'of 
Shoal  creek. 

MORGAN  is  the  most  thickly  settled  county  in  Illinois,  aUd  contained  in  1835, 
which  then  included  the  lately  created  county  of  Cass,  19,214  inhabitants :  the 
population  43  now  estimated  at  16,500.  The  county  was  formed  in  1823,  and  is 
bounded  north  by  the  new  county  of  Cass,  south  by  Greene  and  Macoupin,  east  by 
Sangamon,  and  west  by  Pike  and  Schuyler,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Illi- 
nois river.  It  is  in  length  from  34  to  27  miles,  and  in  breadth  27,  containing  an 
area  of  about  800  square  miles.  The  Illinois  river  washes  the  western  borders  of 
the  county.  The  other  streams  are  Indian,  Mauvaiseterre,  Apple,  and  Sandy 
creeks,  and  their  branches :  these  furnish  many  good  mill-seats.  This  county  is 
duly  proportioned  into  timber  and  prairie,  is  well  watered,  and  contains  many  exten- 
sive and  well  cultivated  farms.  There  are  also  numerous  mills  for  sawing  and 
grinding,  propelled  by  animal  or  water  power,  besides  seveiul  large  steam-mills. 
Emigration,  attended  with  industry  and  enterprize,  in  a  few  fleeting  years,  has 
changed  a  region,  that  was  until  lately  seen  in  all  the  wildness  of  uncultivated 
nature,  into  smiling  villages  and  luxuriant  fields,  and  rendered  it  the  happy  abode 
of  intelligence  and  virtue. 

The  Diamond  Grove  is  a  most  beautiful  tract  of  timber,  two  miles  south-west 
from  Jacksonville.  It  is  elevated  above  the  surrounding  prairie,  contains  700  or 
800  acres,  and  is  surrounded  with  beautiful  farms.  Adjoining  the  above  is  Diamond 
Grove  Prairie,  south  of,  and  adjacent  to,  Jacksonville.  It  is  four  miles  in  extent, 
with  a  rich  soil,  undulating,  dry  surface,  and  mostly  covered  over  with  fine  farms. 
The  English  Settlement  is  situated  west  of  Jacksonville,  on  Cadwell's,  Walnut, 
and  Plum  creeks.  There  are  about  100  families,  mostly  from  Yorkshire,  England, 
and  farmers.  They  appear  to  be  well  pleased  will)  the  country,  and  to  be  accumu- 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  93 


lating  property.  The  Jersey  Prairie  settlement  is  on  a  beautiful  and  rich  prairie, 
in  the  northern  part  of  the  county,  10  miles  from  Jacksonville.  The  land  is  rich, 
timber  adjoining  excellent,  the  people  moral  and  industrious,  the  settlement  exten- 
sive, populous,  and  healthful. 

Morgan  county  contains  a  number  of  towns.  Of  these,  Jacksonville,  the  seat 
of  justice,  is  the  principal,  and  is  one  of  the  most  thriving  places  in  the  state.  The 
others  are,  Meridosia,  Naples,  and  Brussels,  on  the  Illinois  river ;  Princeton,  Lex- 
ington, Franklin,  Waverley,  Exeter,  Geneva,  Lynnville,  Winchester,  and  Man- 
chester. 

Meridosia  is  a  place  of  considerable  business.  It  is  six  miles  above  Naples,  and 
22  from  Jacksonville.  It  is  situated  on  an  elevated  sand  ridge,  with  a  good  land- 
ing, when  the  water  is  not  too  low.  Here  are  two  mills,  several  stores,  and  near 
300  inhabitants.  The  great  rail-road,  extending  from  the  Wabash  river  across  the 
state  to  the  Mississippi,  will  pass  through  this  town. 

Winchester,  16  miles  south-west  from  Jacksonville,  is  a  thriving  village,  with  a 
population  of  nearly  400.  It  was  laid  off  in  1831,  on  elevated  ground,  and  is  in- 
creasing rapidly.  It  has  several  stores,  and  a  number  of  mechanics  of  various 
descriptions.  The  Baptists,  Methodists,  and  Congregationalists,  have  societies 
here.  There  are  excellent  lime  and  freestone  quarries  in  the  vicinity,  and  several 
mills.  A  rail-road  from  Jacksonville  through  Lynnville  and  this  place,  will  strike 
the  Illinois  river  opposite  Augusta,  in  Pike  county. 

OGLE  County  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  Rock  River,  in  the  northern  part  of 
the  state,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Stephenson  and  Winnebago,  south  by 
Putnam,  east  by  Kane,  and  west  by  Jo  Daviess  and  Whiteside  counties.  It  is  from 
36  to  42  miles  in  extent  from  north  to  south,  and  36  from  east  to  west,  and  contains 
an  area  of  1440  square  miles.  It  was  formed  in  1836  from  Jo  Daviess  and  a  part 
of  the  attached  portion  of  La  Salle.  Rock  river  passes  diagonally  through  its 
north-western  portion.  Winnebago  swamp  and  several  other  swamps  are  in  its 
southern  part  Pine,  Leaf,  Big  Bend,  and  Dogs-head  creeks,  and  several  smaller 
streams,  all  of  which  empty  themselves  into.  Rock  river,  furnish  good  mill-seats. 
The  timber  is  chiefly  in  groves,  many  of  which  are  peculiarly  beautiful,  and  of 
various  shapes  and  atzes.  Much  of  the  surface  is  undulating,  the  soil  calcareous, 
deep  and  rich,  and  trie  country  is  rapidly  settling. 

Stillman's  run*;  formerly  called  Mud  creek,  is  a  small  stream  that  runs  west  and 
enters  Rock  river  a  few  miles  below  Sycamore  creek,  where,  on  the  14th  of  May, 
1832,  a  battalion  of  militia,  consisting  of  about  275  men,  under  the  command  of 
Major  Isaiah  Stillman,  of  Fulton  county,  were  attacked,  defeated,  and  eleven  men 
killed,  by  a  portion  of  the  Indian  army  under  the  celebrated  Black  Hawk. 

This  county  has  been  surveyed  by  townships,  but  is  not  yet  subdivided  into  sec- 
tions ;  the  land,  consequently,  not  in  market  The  flow  of  emigration  is  very 
great  fr6m  all  the  states  north  of  Tennessee.  First-rate  claims  are  selling  from 
$500  to  10,000.  Second  and  third  rate  claims  can  yet  be  made  in  great  numbers, 
the  county  containing  1400  square  miles,  and  two  fifths  only  as  yet  taken  up. 
About  two-thirds  of  the  land  is  prairie ;  the  other,  timber  of  superior  quality. 
Population  of  county,  2000.  It  is  said  that  there  is  no  better  watered  country  on 
our  continent  Scarcely  a  mile  square  of  land  can  be  found  without  one  or  more 
fine  springs  upon  it.  The  soil  is  adapted  to  all  kinds  of  grain ;  corn,  75  bushels  to 
the  acre,  without  tending;  wheat,  35  to  40  bushels;  oats,  100.  Of  potatoes,  the 
crop  is  almost  incredible.  Of  three  acres  planted  last  year,  the  hills  about  two 
feet  apart,  the  growth  was  so  abundant  as  to  force  the  potatoes  out  of  the  ground 
nearly  as  large  as  a  pint  measure.  The  crop  was  a  thousand  bushels. 

Ogle  county  is  connected  in  its  representation  with  Jo  Daviess  and  several  other 
counties:  its  seat  of  justice  is  Oregon  city,  a  flourishing  town,  situated  on  the 
bank  of  Rock  River,  100  miles  above  the  mouth.  It  was  laid  out  in  July, 
1836,  and  one  house  then  erected.  There  are  now  eleven,  embracing  three  stores, 
one  tavern,  one  grocery,  and  several  mechanics'  shops.  Two  saw-miUs  moved  by 
water-power,  are  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  so  that  lumber  may  be  readily  obtained. 


94  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


All  kinds,  including  pine,  sell  at  the  mills  for  22  dollars  a  thousand.  Pine  creek, 
which  contains  a  fine  body  of  pine  timber,  is  but  three  miles  distant 

The  following  notice  of  Oregon  city,  and  the  country  in  its  vicinity,  is  from  the 
letter  of  a  traveller,  published  in  the  New- York  Star. 

"This  place  of  course  (as  well  as  others  on  Rock  river)  ja  in  its  very  infancy ;  but 
a  more  lovely  site  for  an  important  town  could  not  have  been  selected,  and  soon 
the  noise  and  clamour  of  steamboats  and  extensive  traffic  will  give  it  life  and  ani- 
mation. The  bluff,  which  follows  the  river  until  it  reaches  the  city,  leaves  it  and 
falls  back  for  a  mile,  forming  the  half  of  a  circle,  and  meets  it  again  just  below  in 
picturesque  grandeur.  The  situation  of  Oregon  itself  has  forcibly  reminded  me 
of  Palermo,  the  capital  of  Sicily,  surrounded  on  the  land  side  by  a  chain  of  moun- 
tains, forming  a  complete  amphitheatre,  which  has  been  poetically  called  the 
"  Conco  FOra"  or  Golden  Shell.  The  banks  of  Rock  river  are  not  so  high  as 
those  in  the  Sicilian  landscape ;  but,  contrasted  with  the  wide  expanse  of  country 
around,  are  quite  as  effective,  and  more  rich  in  fertile  charms.  The  swelling  of 
the  prairies,  gemmed  with  wild  flowers  of  every  hue, — the  stately  forest,  and  val- 
leys interspersed  with  shady  groves  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  surrounding 
Hyde  Park,  from  which  we  started  the  wild  and  bounding  deer  in  great  numbers, 
— form  features  rarely  to  be  met  with  in  a  single  glance  of  the  eye,  either  in  this 
or  any  other  country ;  and  amidst  all  these  beauties, 

"  The  river  nebly  foams  and  flows, 

The  charm  of  this  ehchanted  ground, 
And  all  its  thousand  turns  disclose 
Some  fresher  beauty  varying  round." 

This  fairy-land  was  the  scene  of  the  bloody  atrocities  and  human  slaughter  du- 
ring the  war  of  1832  and  '33,  with  the  Sac  and  Fox  Indians  and  the  United  States, 
conducted  by  the  celebrated  chief  Black  Hawk  and  the  Prophet,  who,  after  their 
capture,  ceded  the  country  east  of  the  Mississippi  to  the  United  States,  including 
the  Rock  river  from  its  mouth,  or  nearly  so,  to  the  dividing  line  between  Illinois 
and  Wisconsin  territory.  Above  this  are  scattered  along  the  western  shore  of  the 
river  a  line  of  mounds,  more  ancient  than^gyen  the  wild  and  fabulous  traditions  of 
the  Indians.  A  hardy  class  of  NeWrEnglarid  settlers  are  now  tilling  these  exten- 
sive plains.  The  Indian  gardens  are  now  grown  up  with  tall  rank  weeds,  and  the 
war-cry  is  only  heard  beyond  the  Mississippi.  The  last  ofrhe  savages  left  in 
May,  1836,  and  left  a  paradise  indeed.  Since  I  have  seen  thiajair  field,  this  noble 
river,  I  am  no  longer  surprised  that  the  Indian,  whose  eloquence  is  the  poetry  of 
nature,  clung  with  such  tenacity  to  this  country,  so  passing  lovely  in  itself,  and 
containing  their  homes  and  the  sepulchres  of  their  dead  warriors. 

Dixonville  is  a  town  site  at  Dixon's  ferry,  on  the  south  side  of  Rock  river,  about 
90  miles  from  the  Mississippi.  It  contains  two  stores,  two  taverns,  one  grocery,  a 
steam  saw-mill,  ten  or  twelve  families,  and  is  a  pleasant  situation.  Here,  the 
stage-roads  from  Chicago  by  Napiersville,  from  Ottawa  by  Troy  Grove,  and  from 
Peoria  by  Windsor  and  Princeton,  all  concentrate,  and  pass  on  to  Galena.  Rock 
river  here  is  206  yards  wide,  and  is  crossed  by  a  rope-ferry-boat 

At  the  Grand  Detour  of  Rock  river,  five  miles  above  Dixonville,  a  town  of  the 
same  name  has  been  laid  off;  and  by  cutting  a  canal  across  the  neck  of  the  bend 
for  a  short  distance,  a  valuable  hydraulic  power  will  be  gained.  An  enterprising 
company  is  engaged  in  the  project 

PEORIA  County. — The  following  account  was  taken  from  the  Peoria  Register 
and  North-western  Gazetteer  of  April  8th,  1837 ;  and,  being  written  on  the  spot 
and  inserted  in  one  of  the  most  respectable  papers  in  the  State,  is  in  all  probability 
an  accurate  representation.  "  This  county  holds  a  central  position  on  the  east 
side  of  the  Bounty  Tract,  having  Fulton  and  Knox  on  the  west,  Putnam  on  the 
north,  and  the  Illinois  river  for  its  south-eastern  boundary  for  a  distance  of  36  miles. 
It  contains  13  entire,  and  8  fractional  townships  of  land,  making  in  all  a  little  less 
than  17  whole  townships,  612  sections,  2448  quarter  sections,  or  391,680  acres. 
Of  the  2448  quarters,  763  have  been  appropriated  as  '  bounty  lands,'  and  mostly 
are  held  by  speculators.  A  few  are  owned  and  occupied  by  actual  settlers,  and  a 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  95 


very  small  part  still  remain  in  the  hands  of  the  original  patentees.  More  than 
two-thirds  of  Peoria  county  is  congress  land  (including  what  has  been  secured  to 
settlers  by  pre-emption,  as  also  the  purchases  made  at  the  land  sales,)  and  subject 
to  entry  in  the  land  office  at  Quincy,  at  one  dollar  and  twenty-five  cents  per  acre. 

"  The  proportion  allotted  to  '  bounties,'  taking  the  military  tract  together,  is 
seven-tenths  of  the  whole ;  and,  from  the  mistaken  policy  of  those  into  whose 
hands  the  ownership  has  generally  fallen,  these  bounty  lands  may  be  considered 
as  virtually  out  of  market ;  consequently  they  must  remain  to  a  great  extent  un- 
settled, until  the  owners  are  willing  to  be  known  through  disinterested  agents,  or 
disposed  to  treat  the  emigrant  with  the  same  liberality  he  receives  from  govern- 
ment. But,  fortunately  for  Peoria,  her  proportion  of  military  land  is  small,  and 
we  may  safely  calculate  that  the  tide  of  emigration  will  continue  to  flow  in  upon 
us  with  undiminished  strength,  for  years  to  come.  To  the  man  of  industry  and 
enterprize  we  extend  a  hearty  welcome  to  our  rich  and  salubrious  county,  not 
doubting  but  an  application  of  his  perseverance  in  any  part  of  it  will  insure  an 
abundant  reward  for  his  toil. 

"Peoria  is  well  divided  into  prairie  and  timber  land  of  about  equal  quantities  of 
each.  To  have  a  correct  idea  of  the  form,  beauty,  and  peculiar  adaptation  of  our 
prairies  to  farming  purposes,  the  reader  will  recollect  that  five  streams  of  no  in- 
considerable magnitude  water  this  county,  all  of  which,  with  the  exception  of 
French  creek,  run  a  southerly  direction  into  the -Illinois  river.  Snatchwine  ("El- 
bow") passes  through  the  north-east  part  of  the  county ;  Kickapoo,  with  its  east, 
north  and  west  forks,  through  the  centre ;  and  Lamarche  and  Copperas  creeks 
through  the  west.  Spoon  river  runs  along  near  the  northern  border,  and  French 
creek  has  a  westward  course  through  the  north  part  of  the  county.  All  of  these 
streams  are  bordered  by  timber  from  one  to  two  miles  wide,  (save  the  interval  bot- 
toms;) the  prairies  occupying  the  balance  of  the  space  between,  and  descending 
in  delightful  slopes  towards  the  timber,  from  the  dividing  ridge  in  the  centre. 
Thus  it  will  be  seen  at  a  glance  that  the  whole  county  is  admirably  divided  into 
alternate  tracts  of  timber  and  prairie  land.  No  county  in  the  state  has  more 
facilities  for  speedily  'enriching  the  industrious  farmer  than  Peoria. 

"Snatchwine,  French,  and  Lamarche  "creeks,  are  good  mill-streams  for  two- 
thirds  of  the  year.  The  balance  of  the  time  they  are,  in  ordinary  seasons,  too  dry. 
An  excellent  grist  and  saw  mill  has  been  put  up  on  the  Snatchwine,  and  prepara- 
tions are  making  for  mills  on  the  Lamarche.  Kickapoo  is  an  invaluable  mill- 
stream,  and  furnishes  a  sufficiency  of  water  at  all  times  to  carry  one  run  of  stone 
— for  nine  months  of  the  year  it  is  sufficient  for  two  run  below  the  'Forks.'  Some 
years  since  a  flouring  mill  was  erected  on  that  stream,  which  is  in  successful  op- 
eration still,  within  two  and  a  half  miles  of  Peoria  village.  Two  saw-mills  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  flouring-mill  are  in  profitable  business.  There  are  two  saw-mills 
above  and  one  grist-mill  below. 

A  very  convenient  bridge  has  been  erected  for  some  years  across  Kickapoo,  four 
miles  below  the  village.  Three  more  bridges  have  been  built  where  roads  leading 
from  Peoria  westward  and  northward  cross  the  Kickapoo.  The  stock  for  a  bridge 
across  the  Illinois  river  at  Peoria  has  been  subscribed,  amounting  to  fifty  thousand 
dollars.  Measures  have  been  taken  by  the  citizens  of  Peoria  to  erect  it  forthwith. 

"  Two  steam  saw-mills  in  this  village,  and  one  12  miles  below,  in  a  finely  tim- 
bered region,  are  in  operation.  A  steam-mill  six  miles  above  here,  and  a  saw-mill 
on  Spoon  river,  in  the  north-west  part  of  the  county,  are  nearly  completed. 

"These  constitute  the  mills  and  bridges  of  importance  completed  or  in  contem- 
plation in  the  county  of  Peoria.  They  certainly  indicate  an  increasing  prosperity 
in  this  section  of  the  country ;  a  prosperity  which  the  character  of  our  soil,  and 
the  physical  advantages  we  so  eminently  enjoy,  are  well  calculated  to  sustain. 
Judging  from  personal  observation  in  every  corner  of  the  county,  the  writer  is  of 
opinion  that  out  of  2448  quarter  sections  of  land  in  Peoria  county,  not  more  than 
500  are  unfit  for  cultivation  by  being  '  too  wet,  or  broken  and  hilly.'  Nor  would 
even  half  this  number  be  so  considered  in  any  other  state  than  Illinois.  What  is 
here  looked  upon  as  hilly  barrens,  would,  on  the  east  side  of  the  mountains,  be  es- 
teemed excellent  arable  land.  But  admitting  that  we  have  500  quarters  unsus- 


96  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


ceptible  of  cultivation,  still  we  have  1948  which  are  tillable :  these  would  support 
as  many  families  in  ease  and  comfort,  or  an  agricultural  population  (allowing  10 
persons  to  a  family)  of  19,480.  It  is  not  to  be  presumed  that  the  farming  interest 
of  this  county  will  ever  comprise  more  than  two  thirds  of  its  entire  population ; 
consequently,  when  we  shall  have  settled  all  our  good  lands,  and  have  19,480  in- 
habitants engaged  in  agriculture,  our  whole  population  will  amount  to  30,000.  In 
1830,  the  number  of  inhabitants  in  this  and  Putnam  counties,  was  1310.  Probably 
our  own  number  was  about  500.  The  population  at  present,  in  Peoria  county 
alone,  is  estimated  at  7000,  consisting  of  emigrants  from  every  state  in  the  Union, 
from  England,  Ireland,  Germany,  and  France.  Nine-tenths  of  the  whole  are  na- 
tive-born citizens  of  the  United  States.  Of  these,  probably  a  fourth  are  from  New- 
England,  the  same  proportion  from  New- York,  a  fourth  from  Pennsylvania  and 
Ohio,  and  the  remainder  from  other  states.  During  the  present  season,  we  are  re- 
ceiving the  greatest  number  of  emigrants  from  Virginia,  Pennsylvania,  and  New- 
York.  Those  from  the  latter  state  come  on  generally  by  way  of  the  lakes.  From 
the  other  two  states,  emigrants  usually  reach  here  in  steamboats  by  way  of  the 
rivers.  At  least  two-thirds  of  the  emigrants  to  this  region,  arrive  by  this  last 
named  route. 

"  In  addition  to  the  advantages  of  having  an  extremely  well  watered  and  fertile 
soil,  we  have  inexhaustible  beds  of  stone-coal,  limestone  and  sandstone,  in  almost 
every  part  of  the  county.  The  Kickapoo  and  its  branches,  the  Lamarche  and 
Copperas  creek  bluffs,  particularly  abound  in  these  important  articles.  Some  of 
the  stone  on  Kickapoo  have,  on  trial,  been  found  to  make  good  grindstones,  and  a 
quarry  has  lately  been  discovered  near  the  '  Forks,'  which  appears  of  superior 
quality.  The  stone-coal  is  said  to  be  little  inferior  to  that  of  Pittsburg,  and  is  found 
in  the  bluffs  of  all  the  creeks  and  Illinois  river.  It  is  generally  used  for  fuel  at 
Peoria  in  winter ;  is  hauled  from  one  to  three  miles,  and  is  worth  12  cents  per 
bushel.  The  sandstone  is  of  fair  quality,  and  is  used  for  the  underpinning  of 
buildings,  for  door  and  window  sills,  &c.  Iron  ore  is  also  said  to  have  been  found 
in  the  county ;  and  '  floating'  mineral,  supposed  to  contain  zinc,  has  been  discovered 
in  various  places.  From  some  recent  discoveries,  and  other  strong  indications,  it  is 
quite  probable  that  the  mineral  resources  of  this  county  have  been  but  very  par- 
tially developed. 

"The  principal  productions  of  the  soil  are,  wheat,  corn,  oats,  rye,  potatoes,  beans, 
peas  and  flax,  all  of  which  arrive  to  great  perfection.  The  average  quantity  of 
each,  per  acre,  is  as  follows — wheat  about  25  bushels,  corn  65,  oats  30,  rye  35,  and 
potatoes  300.  Garden  vegetables,  of  all  kinds,  attain  a  most  luxuriant  growth. 
Apples,  pears,  cherries,  and  plums,  do  well,  but  the  winters  are  rather  severe  for 
the  successful  cultivation  of  the  peach-tree.  Wheat  is  worth,  at  this  time,  $1  75 
cents  per  bushel,  and  very  scarce.  Corn,  50  cents;  oats,  37  cents;  potatoes,  33. 
Of  the  above  named  articles  of  produce,  very  little  surplus  for  exportation  is  now 
raised  in  this  county,  owing  principally  to  the  unusual  quantity  required  to  supply 
the  immense  emigration  constantly  flowing  in  upon  us.  Nearly  140,000  pounds 
of  pork,  and  10,000  pounds  of  lard,  over  and  above  the  amount  required  for  home 
consumption,  were  shipped  from  this  county,  for  the  lower  market,  in  February 
1835.  Besides  the  downward  trade  of  the  river,  a  considerable  traffic  in  live  cat- 
.tle  and  hogs,  was  carried  on  with  the  Galena  lead-mines. 

"The  landing  places  and  places  of  deposit  on  the  Illinois  in  Peoria  county,  are 
Peoria,  Rome,  Allentown,  and  Chillicothe.  The  three  latter  are  inconsiderable 
points  in  the  north-east  part  of  the  county,  but  possessing  much  natural  beauty, 
and  surrounded  by  a  fine  growing  country.  Peoria  is  situated  at  the  outlet  of  lake 
Peoria,  about  equidistant  from  the  north-east  and  south-west  extremes  of  the  county. 
This  place  has  been  so  often  described,  and  is  so  well  known  by  every  citizen  of 
the  state,  that  a  particular  notice  of  it  here  is  deemed  unnecessary.  Suffice  it  to 
say,  that  had  nature  herself  attempted  to  give  any  '  nice  touches  and  finishings,' 
to  what  is  already  so  perfect,  she  might  have  exhibited  no  additional  evidence  of 
skill. 

"  In  concluding  this  description  of  Peoria  county,  the  writer  feels  authorized  to 
say,  that  in  excellency  of  soil,  abundance  of  water,  timber,  stone,  stone-coal,  lime- 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  97 


stone,  freestone,  &c.  this  county  is  unsurpassed  by  any  portion  of  the  Bounty 
Tract,  and  holds  out,  at  this  time,  strong  inducements  to  the  emigrating  farmer  or 
mechanic  to  make  this  his  permanent,  his  prosperous,  his  happy  '  home.''  " 

The  seat  of  justice  is  the  town  of  Peoria,  now  the  most  important  place  in  the 
Military  Bounty  Tract :  the  others  are  mostly  small  villages,  lately  settled :  they 
are,  Rome,  containing  15  or  20  houses,  18  miles  north-east  of  Peoria,  at  the  head 
of  lake  Peoria,  on  Illinois  river;  Chillicothe,  3  miles  above  Rome,  on  Illinois  river, 
with  about  30  houses  and  mills  in  the  vicinity  on  Snatchwine  creek ;  Detroit,  on 
Illinois  river,  six  miles  above  Peoria ;  Northampton,  25  miles  north-east  of  Peoria, 
on  the  Galena  and  Chicago  roads;  Allentown,  on  Illinois  river,  between  Rome  and 
Chillicothe ;  Kickapoo,  twelve  miles  west  of  Peoria ;  Hudson,  nine  miles  west  of 
Peoria;  Kingston,  on  Illinois  river,  with  abundance  of  stone-coal  and  building  stone 
in  its  vicinity ;  Harkness,  having  excellent  limestone  for  building,  splendid  prairie, 
and  first-rate  timber,  20  miles  west  from  Peoria ;  Wheeling,  two  miles  east  of 
Harkness ;  Caledonia,  one  mile  south-east  from  Harkness ;  Aurora,  on  the  head- 
waters of  Copperas  creek,  four  miles  south-east  of  Harkness;  Charleston,  18  miles 
north-west  of  Peoria  ;  Lower  Peoria,  three  miles  from  Peoria,  and  half  a  mile  from 
Illinois  river. 

PERR  Y  County  is  one  of  the  smallest  in  the  state,  and  is  situated  between 
Washington  on  the  north,  Jackson  on  the  south,  Jefferson  and  Franklin  on  the 
east,  and  Randolph  county  on  the  west. .  It  is  in  extent  from  east  to  west  24,  and 
from  north  to  south  18  miles ;  containing  an  area  of  432  square  miles.  The  sur- 
face of  the  county  is  tolerably  level,  about  one  third  prairie,  and  chiefly  a  good 
second-rate  soil.  It  is  watered  mostly  by  the  Beaucoup  creek  and  its  branches, 
and  the  Little  Muddy  creek  which  touches  its  eastern  border:  both  these  streams 
traverse  the  county  from  north  to  south.  The  agricultural  products  and  exports 
are  considerable  for  its  population :  they  consist  of  the  usual  staples  of  this  sec- 
tion of  the  state. 

Elk  Prairie  lies  between  the  little  Muddy  and  Beaucoup  creeks,  and  is  about  five 
miles  in  extent.  It  is  dry  and  tolerably  level ;  soil  second-rite,  and  the  settlement 
contains  about  25  families. 

Lost  Prairie,  seven  miles  west  of  Pinckneyville,  is  three  miles  long,  and  one 
mile  and  a  half  wide.  It  has  a  rich  soil,  high  undulating  surface,  and  a  good  set- 
tlement. 

Pinckndyville,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  a  small  village,  situated  at  the  head  of  Four- 
mile  Prairie,  on  the  west  side  of  Beaucoup  creek.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  large 
settlement  of  industrious  farmers,  and  contains  a  population  of  about  100  persons. 

PIKE  County  is  situated  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Military  Bounty  Tract, 
and  extends  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Illinois  river.  At  its  first  formation  in 
1821,  it  comprised  not  only  the  Military  Bounty  Tract,  but  likewise  the  whole  of 
the  state  lying  north  of  the  Illinois  river,  and  extending  from  the  Mississippi  to 
lake  Michigan,  and  which  is  now  divided  into  upwards  of  twenty  counties.  It  is 
bounded  north  by  Adams  and  Schuyler,  south  by  Calhoun,  east  by  Greene  and 
Morgan  counties,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Illinois,  and  west  by  the  Mis- 
sissippi river.  It  varies  in  extent  from  east  to  west  from  17  to  36,  and  from  north 
to  south  from  24  to  30  miles,  and  contains  an  area  of  about  780  square  miles.  Pike 
county  is  washed  on  its  western  boundary  by  the  Mississippi  river,  and  on  the  east- 
ern by  the  Illinois ;  in  the  interior  it  has  the  Snicartee  Slough,  which  runs  paral- 
lel to  the  Mississippi  through  the  whole  of  its  western  border:  this  affords  a  steam- 
boat navigation  to  the  town  of  Atlas,  at  a  full  stage  of  water.  It  is  also  watered 
by  Bay,  Pigeon,  Hadley,  Key's,  Black,  Dutch  Church,  and  Six-mile  creeks,  which 
fall  into  the  Mississippi,  and  M'Kees,  and  others,  which  fall  into  the  Illinois :  these 
all  furnish  good  mill-seats.  The  land  in  this  county  is  various ;  much  of  it  is  gently 
undulating,  with  a  good  soil  on  the  rivers.  Considerable  tracts  are  subject  to  inun- 
dation at  the  spring  floods,  particularly  between  the  Mississippi  and  the  Snicartee 
Slough.  In  the  interior  are  considerable  tracts  of  table-land,  high,  rolling,  and 
rich,  with  a  due  proportion  of  timber  and  prairie.  In  a  pleasant  vale  on  Key's 
— —  - —  9  — 


98  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


creek,  is  a  salt-spring,  20  feet  in  diameter,  which  boils  from  the  earth ,  and  throws 
off  a  stream  of  some  size,  forming  a  salt  pond  in  its  vicinity.  Salt  has  been  made 
here,  though  not  in  great  quantitiea  This  county  contained  in  1833  a  population 
of  6037  persons. 

Pittsfield,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  situated  on  a  high  and  healthful  prairie,  about 
11  miles  west  of  the  Illinois  river.  The  country  around  it  is  fertile,  and  propor- 
tionably  distributed  into  timber  and  prairie,  and  is  rapidly  settling.  The  other 
towns  are  Montezuma  and  Augusta  on  Illinois  river,  Griggsville,  Perry,  Pleasant 
Val6,  Kinderhook,  and  Atlas :  these  are  all  small  villages,  lately  located. 

Augusta  is  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Illinois  river,  10  miles  east  of  Pittsfield,  and 
22  miles  from  Jacksonville.  It  is  opposite  the  termination  of  the  Jacksonville, 
Lynnville,  and  Winchester  rail-road,  which  is  now  under  contract  Another  com- 
pany hasjaeen  chartered  to  extend  this  line  from  Augusta,  by  Pittsfield  and  Atlas, 
to  Louisiana,  Mo.,  whence  another  line  of  rail-road  has  been  projected,  and  a  char- 
ter granted  by  the  legislature  of  Missouri,  across  to  Columbia  and  the  Missouri 
river. 

Perry  is  situated  on  section  twenty-one,  township  three  south,  three  west.  It 
has  two  or  three  stores,  several  families,  and  is  a  pleasant  village,  surrounded  with 
a  fine  country,  diversified  with  timber  and  prairie. 

POPE  County  lies  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state,  and  is  washed  on  the  south 
and  east  by  the  Ohio  river,  which  separates  it  from  the  state  of  Kentucky ;  on  the 
north,  it  is  bounded  by  Gallatin,  and  on  the  west,  by  Johnson  county.  Its  greatest 
length  from  north  to  south  is  36  miles,  and  it  varies  in  width  from  30  to  11  miles. 
Its  area  is  about  576  square  miles.  The  interior  of  the  county  is  watered  by  Big 
Bay,  Lusk's,  Grand  Pierre,  and  Big  creek.  It  is  generally  well  timbered  with  all 
the  variety  of  trees  that  abound  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state.  The  surface  is 
generally  level,  except  on  the  banks  of  the  Ohio.  The  soil  is  mostly  sandy,  but 
yields  good  crops.  This  county  was  formed  from  Gallatin  and  Johnson  in  1816, 
and  contained  in  1835  a  population  of  3756. 

The  natural  curiosity,  called  the  Cave  in  Rock,  is  well  known  to  all  the  navi- 
gators of  the  Ohio  river:  it  is  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  Ohio,  where  the  dividing 
line  between  Pope  and  Gallatin  counties  strikes  the  river,  about  30  miles  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Wabash.  It  a  large  cave,  supposed  by  the  Indians  to  be  the 
habitation  of  the  Great  Spirit 

The  following  description  of  this  cave  'is  given  by  Thaddeus  M.  Harris,  an 
English  tourist,  who  visited  it  in  the  spring  of  1803, — a  writer  who  has  done  justice 
to  the  West  in  his  descriptions  generally.  "  For  about  three  or  four  miles  before 
you  come  to  this  place,  you  are  presented  with  a  scene  truly  romantic.  On  the 
Illinois  side  of  the  river,  you  see  large  ponderous  rocks  piled  one  upon  another,  of 
different  colours,  shapes,  and  sizes.  Some  appear  to  have  gone  through  the  hands 
of  the  most  skilful  artist ;  some  represent  the  ruins  of  ancient  edifices :  others 
thrown  promiscuously  in  and  out  of  the  river,  as  if  nature  intended  to  show  us  with 
what  ease  she  could  handle  those  mountains  of  solid  rock.  In  some  places  you  see 
purling  streams  winding  their  course  down  their  rugged  front ;  while  in  others,  the 
rocks  project  so  far,  that  they  seem  almost  disposed  to  leave  their  doubtful  situa- 
tions. After  a  short  relief  from  this  scene,  you  come  to  a  second,  which  is  some- 
thing similar  to  the  first;  and  here,  with  strict  scrutiny,  you  can  discover  the  cave. 
Before  its  mouth  stands  a  delightful  grove  of  cypress  trees,  arranged  immediately 
on  the  bank  of  the  river.  They  have  a  fine  appearance,  and  add  much  to  the 
cheerfulness  of  the  place. 

"  The  mouth  of  the  cave  is  but  a  few  feet  above  the  ordinary  level  of  the  river, 
and  is  formed  by  a  semicircular  arch  of  about  80  feet  at  its  base,  and  25  feet  in 
height,  the  top  projecting  considerably  over,  forming  a  regular  concave.  From  the 
entrance  to  the  extremity,  which  is  about  180  feet,  it  has  a  regular  and  gradual 
ascent  On  either  side  is  a  solid  bench  of  rock ;  the  arch  coming  to  a  point  about 
the  middle  of  the  cave,  where  you  discover  an  opening  sufficiently  large  to  receive 
the  body  of  a  man,  through  which  comes  a  small  stream  of  fine  water,  made  use 
of  by  those  who  visit  this  place.  From  this  hole,  a  second  cave  is  discovered. 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  99 

whose  dimensions,  form,  etc.,  are  not  known.  The  rock  is  of  limestone.  The 
sides  of  the  cave  are  covered  with  inscriptions,  names  of  persons,  dates,  etc."  The 
trees  have  been  cut  down,  and  the  entrance  into  the  cave  exposed  to  view. 

In  1797,  this  cave  was  the  place  of  resort  and  security  to  Mason,  a  notorious 
robber,  and  his  gang,  who  were  accustomed  to  plunder  and  murder  the  crews  of 
boats,  while  descending  the  Ohio.  It  still  serves  as  a  temporary  abode  for  those 
wanting  shelter  in  case  of  shipwreck,  or  other  accidents,  which  frequently  happen 
to  emigrants.  Families  have  been  known  to  reside  here  for  a  considerable  space 
of  time.  The  rock  is  of  limestone,  abounding  with  shells. 

Irish  Settlement  is  on  the  Ohio  river,  about  15  miles  above  Golconda :  it  is  on  a 
rich  alluvial  soil,  and  contains  about  100  families. 

Lewis's  Settlement  is  in  the  southern  part  of  the  county,  above  and  opposite  the 
mouth  of  Cumberland  river.  This  is  the  oldest  settlement  in  this  part  of  the  state, 
and  contains  60  or  70  families. 

Whitesides'  Settlement  is  12  miles  west  of  Golconda,  on  Big  Bay  creek  and 
the  state  road,  and  contains  a  population  of  100  families. 

Golconda,  the  county  town,  is%ituated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Ohio,  at  the 
mouth  of  Lusk's  creek,  about  80  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio :  it  contains 
several  stores,  the  county  buildings,  &c.,  and  about  150  inhabitants. 

PUTNAM  County  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Illinois  river,  the  greater 
portion  being  on  the  western  side  of  that  stream.  It  is  among  the  largest  counties 
in  the  state,  comprising  an  area  of  about  43  full  townships,  or  1548  square  miles, 
and  is  45  miles  in  extent  from  north  to  south  on  the  eastern  boundary,  and  42  on 
the  western,  and  from  east  to  west  36  miles.  The  county  is  bounded  north  by 
Ogle  and  Whiteside,  south  by  Tazewell  and  Peoria,  east  by  La  Salle,  and  west  by 
Henry  and  Knox  counties. 

The  streams  which  water  this  county  are  the  Illinois  and  its  branches,  Bureau, 
Crow,  and  Sandy  creeks,  &c. ;  also,  the  head-waters  of  Spoon  river,  which  traverse 
the  western  border :  these  furnish  many  excellent  mill-seats.  Some  of  the  finest 
lands  in  the  state  are  in  this  county  :  there  are  beautiful  groves  of  timber,  and  rich 
undulating  and  dry  prairies ;  a  few  tracts  of  prairie  are  level  and  wet,  and  there 
are  some  small  lakes  and  ponds,  and  sornQ  swamps,  in  the  northern  part. 

The  timber  comprises  most  of  the  varieties  common  to  this  part  of  the  state : 
besides  oaks  of  several  species,  there  are  black  and  white  walnut,  sugar-rnaple, 
blue,  white,  and  hoop  ash,  elm,  cherry,  aspen,  iron-wood,  buck-eye,  linden,  locust, 
mulberry,  &c.  Various  mineral  productions  exist,  and  are  found  in  sufficient  quan- 
tities :  the  chief  are  limestone,  sandstone,  freestone,  and  bituminous  coal. 

The  religious  denominations  in  Putnam  county  are  Methodists,  Presbyterians, 
Baptists,  and  Congregational ists:  there  is  a  county  Bible  society,  a  temperance 
society,  a  county  Sunday  School  Union,  a  number  of  Sunday  Schools,  a  county 
lyceum,  and  several  other  philanthropic  societies.  The  towns  are  Hennem'n,  the 
seat  of  justice,  for  the  county,  Princeton,  Windsor,  Providence,  Floria,  Henry,  Dor- 
chester, Wyoming,  and  Lacon. 

Hennepin  is  situated  in  the  great  bend  of  tl^e  Illinois,  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river :  it  is  about  50  mileaiabove  Peoria.  Its  site  is  an  elevated  prairie,  the  surface 
gently  ascending  from  the  river,  with  an  excellent  body  of  rich  land  adjacent : 
steamboats  ascend  to  Hennepin,  at  a  moderate  stage  of  the  water.  This  place  was 
laid  out  in  1831,  and  now  contains  ten  stores,  four  groceries,  three  taverns,  three 
lawyers,  four  physicians,  a  Presbyterian  and  a  Methodist  congregation,  a  court- 
house and  jail,  a  good  school,  and  about  500  inhabitants. 

Lacon,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Illinois,  30  miles  above  Peoria,  and  20  below  Hen- 
nepin, is  a  thriving  little  town,  built  on  the  second  bank  of  the  river,  and  contains 
four  stores,  a  large  steam  flouring  and  steam  saw  mill,  and  150  inhabitants.  The 
country  in  its  vicinity,  especially  on  the  east  side  of  the  Illinois  river,  is  well  set- 
tled, and  is  a  fine  agricultural  district,  of  which  Lacon  will  be  the  place  of  busi- 
ness. There  is  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town  an  abundance  of  fine  timber,  building- 
stone,  and  stone-coal.  The  state  legislature  recently  passed  acts  for  the  location 
of  three  stato  roads  to  and  through  this  place  ;  two  to  connect  with  the  ferry,  and 


100  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


one  running  from  north  to  south ; — and  also  chartered  the  Lacon  academy,  and  the 
Lacon  manufacturing  company. 

Windsor  is  a  small  town  on  Bureau  creek,  10  miles  west  from  Hennepin,  and 
on  the  main  state  road  from  Peoria  by  Princeton  to  Galena.  It  has  two  stores,  two 
groceries,  one  tavern,  one  lawyer,  one  physician,  one  minister  of  the  gospel,  and 
about  100  inhabitants.  A  grist  and  saw  mill  are  in  the  vicinity. 

The  subjoined  notice  of  Putnam  county  is  from  a  late  number  of  the  Hennepin 
Journal : 

"  Almost  every  county  in  the  state  has  had  its  topography  and  history  published  to 
the  world,  in  some  one  or  more  of  the  public  journals  of  the  day;  while  to  ours,  which 
is  one  of  the  most  important  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state,  there  has  been  no- 
thing said ;  and  at  a  distance,  there  are  few  who  have  heard  that  there  is  such  a  coun- 
ty in  the  state  as  Putnam.  And  in  order  to  obviate  this,  and  let  the  readers  of  the 
Journal  at  a  distance  know  something  of  this  region,  and  its  progress  of  improve- 
ment, we  will  attempt  a  brief  account  of  the  history  and  topography  of  Putnam 
county. 

"  Putnam  county  was  organized  in  the  year  1831,  but  did  not  increase  rapidly 
in  population  until  after  the  termination  of  the  Black  Hawk  war  in  1S32  and  '33. 
But  after  the  conclusion  of  hostilities,  and  when  security  was  restored  to  the  settler, 
immigrants  came  in  from  every  quarter  of  the  union,  and  spread  over  the  country 
in  every  direction  like  a  flood,  so  that  nearly  every  grove  of  timber  soon  found  an 
inhabitant  of  a  very  different  stamp  from  the  native  red  man,  who,  but  a  short  time 
since,  was  lord  of  the  grove  and  the  prairie,  and  who  roamed  over  these  fair  plains 
unmolested,  having  none  to  dispute  his  right  to  the  soil,  or  disturb  him  in  his  scenes 
of  pleasure  at  his  wigwam,  and  enjoyments  of  the  chase. 

"  And  every  year  since  has  added  large  numbers  to  the  enterprizing  population 
who  first  planted  themselves  around  the  beautiful  groves  of  Putnam ;  and  so  rapid 
has  been  the  increase,  that  not  only  immediately  around  the  groves  is  the  settler 
found,  but  the  large  prairies  to  a  very  considerable  extent  are  studded  over  with 
houses  and  farms,  presenting  to  the  eye  of  the  beholder  a  scene  of  singular  beauty 
and  grandeur.  Putnam  county  now  contains  about  1500  voters,  and  will  in  a  short 
time,  in  point  of  population  and  political  strength,  vie  with  any  county  in  the  state, 
except  the  county  of  Sangamon.  Putnam  county  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  the 
Illinois  river,  and  composed  of  rich  and  beautiful  undulating  prairies,  interspersed 
with  fine  groves  of  excellent  timber,  and  abounding  in  bituminous  coal  of  good 
quality,  together  with  a  sufficient  supply  of  rock  for  building  purposes,  and  is 
watered  by  a  number  of  fine  streams,  possessing  a  large  amount  of  hydraulic  power, 
which  on  several  of  them  is  now  pretty  well  improved,  particularly  on  Bureau  and 
Crow  creeks. 

'•  We  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  Putnam  county  possesses  agricultural 
and  commercial  advantages  equal  to  those  of  any  county  in  the  state,  and  that  it 
has  as  beautiful  a  surface  and  as  ricli  a  soil,  with  as  good  a  supply  of  timber,  as  is 
found  anywhere  in  the  west.  The  land  being  dry  and  rolling,  is  pleasant  and  easy 
to  cultivate,  and  yields  to  the  industrious  fanner  an  abundant  reward  for  his  labour, 
producing  every  thing  incident  to  the  climate  in  the  greatest  profusion,  and  with 
an  ease  to  the  cultivator  that  would  appear  almost  incredible  to  the  people  of  the 
states  farther  east,  who  are  accustomed  to  a  hard  and  sterile  soil,  when  compared 
with  ours. 

"  The  inhabitants  of  this  county  are  enterprizing  and  intelligent,  having  emi- 
grated mainly  from  Ohio,  New-York,  and  New  England,  and  coming  here  with 
their  accustomed  habits  of  industry,  they  soon  succeed  in  subduing  these  fertile 
prairies  to  a  state  of  high  cultivation.  And  such  is  the  comparative  ease  with 
which  land  can  be  brought  into  cultivation,  that  the  farmer  will  accomplish  here 
in  three  years,  what  could  not  be  attained  in  the  timbered  parts  of  Ohio  and  Indi- 
ana, with  the  same  labour,  in  ten ;  which  circumstance  alone,  when  duly  considered 
by  him  who  is  about  to  emigrate  to  the  west  to  find  a  home,  is  an  inducement 
amply  sufficient  to  give  a  decided  preference  to  a  prairie  country.  And  we  would 
be  glad  to  see  the  enterprizing  citizens  of  the  older  states,  particularly  farmers  and 
mechanics,  coming  in  amongst  us  by  hundreds,  and  purchasing  the  rich  prairies, 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  101 


and  spreading  over  them  their  luxuriant  fields  of  grain,  and  herds  of  cattle  and 
sheep,  which  will  soon  reward  them  amply  for  the  labour  and  difficulties  attending 
the  settlement  of  a  new  country.  On  account  of  the  great  pressure  in  the  eastern 
states,  we  anticipate  a  heavy  emigration  to  the  west  this  season,  and  as  we  have 
an  abundance  of  room,  we  will  welcome  those  who  may  come,  hoping  that  they 
will  find  a  desirable  home  amongst  us." 

RANDOLPH  County  is  bounded  north  by  Monroe,  St.  Clair,  and  Washington ; 
east  by  Perry  and  Jackson,  and  west  by  Monroe  county  and  the  Mississippi  river. 
Its  greatest  length  is  29  miles,  and  greatest  breadth  26 ;  but  it  is  rendered  irregu- 
lar by  the  curvatures  of  the  Mississippi  river,  and  contains  an  area  of  520  square 
miles.  This  county  is  traversed  by  the  Kaskaskia  river  and  its  branches,  Horse, 
Nine-mile,  and  Plum  creeks ;  also  by  St.  Mary's  and  Gagnic  creeks.  At  the 
mouth  of  the  Kaskaskia  commences  the  American  Bottom,  which  extends  along 
the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  northwardly  upwards  of  80  miles.  It  is  the  most  fer- 
tile tract  of  land  in  the  state.  Upon  this  the  first  settlements  were  made  by  the 
French  of  Canada.  The  villages  still  retain  much  of  their  antique  appearance. 
Below  the  mouth  of  the  Kaskaskia,  the  bank  of  the  Mississippi  is  generally  high 
and  rocky,  affording  good  sites  for  towns.  In  the  interior  of  the  county,  the  surface 
is  frequently  undulating,  and  sometimes  hilly.  Randolph  is  one  of  the  oldest 
counties  in  Illinois,  having  been  formed  in  1795 ;  and  it  contained  in  1835  a  popu- 
lation of  5695  individuals. 

In  the  north-western  part  of  the  county  are  the  ruins  of  Fort  Chartres,  a  large 
stone  fortification,  erected  by  the  French  while  in  possession  of  Illinois.  It  is  situ- 
ated half  a  mile  from  the  Mississippi,  and  three  miles  from  Prairie  du  Rocher. 

It  was  originally  built  by  the  French  in  1720,  to  defend  themselves  against  the 
Spaniards,  who  were  then  taking  possession  of  the  country  on  the  Mississippi.  It 
was  rebuilt  in  1756.  The  circumstances,  character,  form,  and  history  of  this  fort, 
are  interesting,  as  it  is  intimately  connected  with  the  early  history  of  this  country. 
Once  it  was  a  most  formidable  piece  of  masonry,  the  materials  of  which  were 
brought  three  or  four  miles  from  the  bluffs.  It  was  originally  an  irregular  quad- 
rangle, the  exterior  sides  of  which  were  490  feet  in  circumference.  Within  the 
walls  were  the  commandant's  and  commissary's  houses,  a  magazine  for  stores,  bar- 
racks, powder-magazine,  bake-house,  guard-house,  and  prison. 

This  prodigious  military  work  is  now  a  heap  of  ruins.  Many  of  the  hewn  stones 
have  been  removed  by  the  people  to  Kaskaskia.  A  slough  from  the  Mississippi 
approached  and  undermined  the  wall  on  one  side  in  1772.  Over  the  whole  fort  is 
a  considerable  growth  of  trees,  and  most  of  its  walls  and  buildings  have  fallen 
down,  and  lie  in  one  promiscuous  ruin. 

Kaskaskia,  the  seat  of  justice,  was  formerly  the  seat  of  government  of  the  terri- 
tory of  Illinois:  it  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Kaskaskia  river,  seven  miles 
above  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi.  The  other  towns  are  Prairie  du  Rocher, 
Chester,  Liberty,  and  Columbus. 

Prairie  du  Rocher  is  an  ancient  French  village,  in  the  north-west  part  of  the 
county,  on  the  American  Bottom,  near  the  rocky  bluffs,  from  which  it  derives  its 
name,  and  14  miles  north-west  of  Kaskaskia.  It  is  in  a  low,  unhealthy  situation, 
along  a  small  creek  of  the  same  name,  which  rises  in  the  bluffs,  passes  across  the 
American  Bottom,  and  enters  the  Mississippi.  The  houses  are  built  in  the  French 
style,  the  streets  very  narrow,  and  the  inhabitants  preserve  more  of  the  simplicity 
of  character  and  habits  peculiar  to  early  times,  than  any  village  in  Illinois.  Prairie 
du  Rocher  in  1766  contained  14  families ;  the  population  at  present  is  estimated 
at  35  families. 

Chester,  just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Kaskaskia  river,  on  the  bank  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, is  situated  on  an  elevated  strip  of  bottom  land  at  the  foot  of  the  bluffs,  and 
is  a  commercial  dep6t  for  the  country  back.  Exports  by  steamboats  for  1836, 
$150,000 ;  imports,  $130,000.  It  has  five  stores,  three  groceries,  one  tavern,  one 
physician,  two  ministers  of  the  gospel,  four  warehouses,  one  steam  saw  and  grist 
mill,  one  castor-oil  factory,  and  280  inhabitants. 

Liberty  is  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  about  10  miles  below  the  mouth 

9* 


102  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


of  the  Kaskaskia  river :  it  contains  150  inhabitants,  has  a  steam,  saw,  and  flouring 
mill,  six  stores,  three  groceries,  two  taverns,  one  minister  of  the  gospel,  and  two 
physicians. 

Columbus  is  near  the  Flat  Prairie,  in  the  north-east  part  of  the  county,  18  miles 
from  Kaskaskia :  it  contains  an  academy  and  a  congregation  of  Reformed  Presby- 
terians or  Covenanters,  who  have  a  resident  minister  and  a  respectable  society. 

ROCK  ISLAND  County  is  situated  in  the  north-west  part  of  the  state,  on  both 
sides  of  Rock  river,  and  is  an  irregularly  shaped  district,  extending  along  the  Mis- 
sissippi, following  the  current  of  the  stream,  for  upwards  of  60  miles.  It  was  or- 
ganized from  parts  of  Jo  Daviess  and  Mercer  counties  in  1831,  and  contains  an 
area  of  about  432  square  miles.  Its  population  in  1835  amounted  to  616  individu- 
als, but  is  now  estimated  at  from  1200  to  1500. 

The  interior  of  the  county  is  watered  by  Rock  river,  Copperas  creek,  Lake 
creek,  &c.  The  soil  along  the  Mississippi  for  25  miles  is  alluvion,  somewhat 
sandy,  and  rich :  in  the  interior  of  the  county,  there  is  much  good  land  between 
the  water-courses,  with  some  bluffs,  knobs,  ravines,  and  sink  holes.  South  of  Rock 
river,  a  portion  of  the  county  is  rather  inferior,  with  some  wet  prairie  and  swamps. 
Rock  Island,  in  the  Mississippi  river,  is  in  this  county :  it  commences  three  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  Rock  river,  and  is  three  miles  long,  and  from  one  half  to  one 
mile  wide,  with  limestone  rock  for  its  base.  Fort  Armstrong  is  on  its  south  end : 
on  two  sides,  the  rock  is  twenty  feet  in  perpendicular  height  above  the  river,  and 
forms  the  foundation  wall  uf  tlig  fort  A  portion  of  the  island  iS  cultivated. 

The  towns  in  the  county  are  Stephenson,  the  seat  of  justice,  Rock  Island  City, 
Milan,  Rockport,  and  Port  Ijyron. 

Stephenson  is  situated  on  the.  Mississippi,  opposite  the  lower  end  of  Rock  Island, 
two  miles  above  the  rflb.Uh  of  Rock  River,  and  about  330  above  St.  Louis.  It  has 
20  or  30  families,  and  several  stores,  at  which  a  considerable  amount  of  business  is 
transacted.  The  fine  situation  of  this  place,  its  natural  commercial  advantages, 
I  and  the  rapidly  increasing  population  of  the  fertile  country  around  it  on  both  sides 
of  the  Mississippi,  will  no  doubt  render  it  in  a  short  time  one  of  the  most  con- 
siderable towns  in  this  section  of  Illinois. 

Rock  Island  city  is  laid  out  on  a  magnificent  scale,  at  the  junction  and  in  the 
forks  between  Rock  river  and  the  Mississippi.  In  connexion,  a  company  has  been 
chartered  to  cut  a  canal  from  the  MiBsissippi,  near  the  head  of  the  upper  rapids, 
across  to  Rock  river,  by  which,  it  is  said,  an  immense  hydraulic  power  will  be 
gained.  The  town  site,  as  surveyed,  extends  over  a  large  area,  and  includes  Ste- 
phenson the  seat  of  justice.. 

Milan  (formerly  known  as  M'Neal'a  Landing)  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  Mississippi,  12  miles  above  Fort  Armstrong,  and  90  below  Galena.  The  town 
has  a  fine  steamboat  landing,  and  contains  two  stores,  two  taverns,  a  new  one 
building,  and  a  good  school-house  in  progress  of  erection.  There  are  four  saw- 
mills within  a  short  distance,  and  twelve  within  ten  miles. 

The  country  in  the  vicinity  is  abundantly  supplied  with  timber,  limestone,  and 
coal.  There  have  been  several  boat-loads  of  coal  taken  from  there  this  season  to  Ga- 
lena, it  being  the  nearest  coal  to  that  point  yet  discovered.  The  company  who 
own  this  site  obtained  a  charter  at  the  last  session  of  the  legislature  for  a  canal  to 
run  from  Rock  river  to  the  Mississippi,  terminating  at  this  point,  leaving  Rock 
river  at  the  head  of  the  rapids,  avoiding  the  only  serious  obstacle  to  the  navigation 
of  that  stream  by  a  canal  of  only  four  miles  in  length.  This  will  open  through 
Milan  all  the  trade  of  the  Pekatonica  and  Rock  river  country,  which  is  one  of  the 
best  agricultural  districts  in  the  state.  The  transportation  of  coal  alone  would 
make  the  stock  of  this  canal  good  property,  there  being  inexhaustible  beds  along 
the  whole  length  of  it.  It  is  also  surrounded  with  an  excellent  farming  country, 
which  is  rapidly  filling  up  with  an  enterprising  population.  Four  colonies  have 
settled  back  in  Henry  county ;  and  this  is  their  nearest  point  on  the  river,  and  the 
commissioners  of  some  of  them  are  interested  in  Milan. 

Rockport  and  Port  Byron  are  both  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Mississippi 
river,  and  are  small  and  recently  settled  places :  the  latter  is  in  the  northern  part 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  103  I 


of  the  county,  about  25  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Rock  river,  and  the  former  about 
seven  miles  below  that  stream. 

SANGAMON  County  was  formed  from  Bond  and  Madison  counties,  in  1821 ; 
and  although  considerably  reduced  from  its  original  dimensions,  is  the  largest  and 
most  populous  in  the  state :  it  is  48  miles  in  extent  from  north  to  south,  42  miles 
from  east  to  west  on  its  southern,  and  upwards  of  60  on  its  northern  boundary ; 
containing  an  area  about  equal  to  sixty  foil  townships,  or  2160  square  miles.  The 
county  is  bounded  north  by  Tazewell  and  a  small  part  of  M'Lean,  east  by  Macon, 
south  by  Montgomery  and  Macoupin,  and  west  by  Morgan  and  Cass  counties. 

The  county  of  Sangamon,  ever  since  its  first  settlement,  has  been  justly  esteemed 
the  most  desirable  tract  in  the  state,  and  it  consequently  has  been  settled  with  great 
rapidity.  Previous  to  1819,  there  was  not  a  single  white  inhabitant  on  the  waters 
of  the  Sangamon  river :  at  the  last  census,  the  inhabitants  numbered  17,573 :  they 
doubtless  now  amount  to  upwards  of  20,000.  The  county  is  watered  by  the  San- 
gamon and  its  tributaries :  the  chief  of  these  are  the  south  fork  of  Sangamon,  Salt 
creek  and  its  branches,  Sugar  and  Kickapoo  creeks:  these  all  rise  without  the 
limits  of  the  county.  In  addition,  there  are  a  number  of  small  and  beautiful  streams 
which  have  their  rise  and  course  within  the  county ;  these  empty  into  the  Sanga- 
rnon  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  furnish  the  inhabitants  not  only  with  excellent 
water,  but  with  numerous  valuable  mill-seats,  besides  being  lined  with  extensive 
tracts  of  first-rate  timbered  land.  • 

The  whole  territory,  watered  by  the  Sangamon  river  and  its  branches,  is  an  Ar- 
cadian region,  in  which  nature  has  delighted  to  bring  together  her  happiest  combi- 
nations of  landscape.  With  the  exception  of  the  Qre^k  bottoms,  and  the  interior 
of  the  large  prairies,  it  has  a  beautiful  undulating-' surface,  sufficient  to  drain  the 
surface  of  surplus  water,  and  to  render  it  one  of"  the  finest  agricultural  districts  in 
the  United  States.  The  prairies  are  not  so  extensive  as  to  be  incapable  of  settle- 
ment from  want  of  timber.  The  Sangamon  itself  is  a  fine  boatable  stream  of  the 
Illinois,  entering  it  on  the  east  side,  100  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois.  All 
the  tributaries  that  enter  this  beautiful  river  have  sandy  and  pebbly  bottoms,  and 
pure  and  transparent  waters.  There  is  in  this  district  a  happy  proportion  of  tim- 
ber and  prairie  lands :  the  soil  is  of  great  fertility,  being  a  rich  calcareous  loam, 
from  one  to  three  feet  deep,  intermixed  with  fine  sand.  The  climate  is  not  very 
different  from  that  of  the  central  parts  of  New  Jersey  and  Pennsylvania,  the  lati- 
tude being  about  the  same.  The  summer  range  for  cattle  is  inexhaustible.  The 
growth  of  forest  trees  is  similar  to  that  of  the  rich  lands  in  the  western  country  in 
general.  The  proportion  of  locust,  black  walnut,  peccan,  and  other  trees  that  in- 
dicate the  richest  soils,  is  very  great  All  who  have  visited  this  fine  tract  of  coun- 
try admire  the  beauty  of  the  landscape  which  nature  has  here  painted  in  primeval 
freshness.  So  delightful  a  region  was  early  selected  by  immigrants  from  New 
England,  New- York,  and  North  Carolina:  more  than  200  families  had  settled  them- 
selves here  before  it  was  surveyed.  It  now  constitutes  several  populous  counties, 
inhabited  by  thriving  farmers. 

"  Arcadian  vales,  with  vine-hung  bowers, 

And  grassy  nooks,  'neath  beechen  shade, 
Where  dance  the  never-resting  hours, 

To  music  of  the  bright  cascade; 
Skies  softly  beautiful,  and  blue, 

As  Italy's,. with  stars  as  bright; 
Flowers  rich  as  morning's  sun-rise  hue, 

And  gorgeous  as  the  gemm'd  mid-night. 
Land  of  the  West !   green  Forest-Land, 
Thus  hath  Creation's  bounteous  hand 
Upon  thine  ample  bosom  flung 
Charms  such  as  were  her  gift  when  the  gray  world  was  young !" 

The  prairies  frequently  contain  fine  groves  of  timber,  some  of  which,  from  their 
appearance,  have  received  the  names  of  Elk-heart  Grove,  Buffalo-heart  Grove,  &c. 
These  groves  are  generally  elevated  above  the  surrounding  prairie,  and  are  most 
advantageous  situations  for  settlement.  The  inhabitants  chiefly  reside  on  the  mar- 


104  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


s  of  the  timber,  extending  their  plantations  to  any  distance  into  the  prairie. 
Besides  the  groves  above-mentioned,  there  are  Irish  Grove,  Spring  Island  Grove, 
Sugar  Grove,  &c. 

Elk-heart  Grove  lies  north  of  Sangamon  river,  and  about  20  miles  north-east 
from  Springfield,  in  eighteen  north,  three  west  It  is  a  beautiful  grove  of  timber, 
containing  600  or  700  acres,  on  the  right  hand  of  the  great  road  leading  to  Peoria, 
Ottawa,  and  Chicago.  The  timber  is  oak,  walnut,  linden,  hickory,  sugar-tree,  etc. 
The  prairie  adjoining  is  rich  soil,  rather  wet,  and  furnishes  fine  summer  and  winter 
range  for  cattle.  Several  femilies  are  settled  here. 

Buffalo-heart  Grove  lies  14  miles  north-east  from  Springfield,  and  six  miles  south- 
easterly from  Elk-heart  Grove,  which  it  resembles.  It  is  about  three  miles  long, 
and  one  mile  and  a  half  wide,  containing  about  four  sections  of  timber,  and  25  or 
30  families.  The  rushes,  which  cover  the  prairies  around,  furnish  winter  food  for 
cattle. 

Irish  Grove  is  on  the  road  from  Springfield  to  Peoria,  18  miles  from  the  former 
place.  It  is  two  miles  from  Salt  creek,  and  is  three  miles  long,  and  one  mile  and 
a  half  wide,  and  contains  a  settlement  of  about  50  families.  The  land  is  good, 
and  the  timber  is  chiefly  oak  of  various  kinds. 

Spring  Island  Grove  is  from  14  to  20  miles  west  of  Springfield,  on  the  road  to 
Jacksonville.  It  lies  at  the  head  of  Spring  creek,  and  is  an  excellent  timbered 
tract,  surrounded  with  rich  prairie,  from  six  to  ten  ttiiles  long,  and  from  two  to 
three  miles  wide,  and  has  a  flourishing  settlement.  Many  excellent  springs  are 
found  in  this  tract  of  country. 

Sugar  Grove,  in  the  north  part  of  the  county,  is  about  20  miles  north  of  Spring- 
field. It  is  a  fine  tract  of  timber  surrounded  with  fertile  prairie,  about  three  miles 
long,  and  one  mile  wide,  with  a  respectable  settlement. 

On  the  head-waters  of  $ichland  creek  is  a  fine  settlement  of  50  or  60  families, 
in  township  seventeen  north,  seven  west,  and  fourteen  miles  north-west  from 
Springfield.  The  land  is  high,  dry,  undulating,  and  rich.  Here  is  an  excellent 
flouring-mill  by  ox-power,  and  a  carding  machine  and  clothier's  works,  for  dressing 
cloth. 

The  products  of  Sangamon  county  are  beef,  cattle,  pork,  wheat,  flour,  corn-meal, 
butter,  cheese,  &c. ;  and  soon  will  include  almost  every  article  of  a  rich  agricul- 
tural country.  The  principal  part  of  the  surplus  produce  is  sent  from  Beardstown ; 
but  much  of  its  imports  will  be  received,  and  its  exports  sent  off  by  its  own  river, 
which  has  already  been  navigated  by  steam  to  the  vicinity  of  Springfield,  and  when 
some  of  its  obstructions  are  removed,  will  afford  convenient  navigation  for  steam- 
boats of  the  smaller  class. 

The  county  seat  of  Sangamon  is  Springfield,  one  of  the  most  thriving  towns  in 
Illinois,  and  recently  selected  by  the  legislature  as  the  permanent  capital  of  the 
state  after  the  year  1840.  The  other  towns  are,  Huron,  Petersburg,  New  Salem, 
Salisbury,  Athens,  Sangamon,  Berlin,  Auburn,  Edinburg,  Rochester,  Mechanics- 
burg,  George  Town,  Mount  Pulaski,  and  Postville.  Of  these,  after  Springfield, 
the  most  important  are  Athens  and  Petersburg :  the  former  is  about  fifteen  miles 
west  of  north  from  Springfield,  and  two  from  the  Sangamon  river ;  it  contains  seve- 
ral stores,  one  steam-mill  for  sawing  and  flouring,  and  about  75  families.  Peters- 
burg, situated  on  a  beautiful  dry  prairie  bottom  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Sangamon 
river,  and  22  miles  from  Springfield,  contains  seven  stores  and  one  grocery,  a  steam, 
saw,  and  grist  mill,  and  150  inhabitants.  The  river  is  navigable  to  this  point  for 
steamboats  of  100  tons  burthen,  two  such  having  already  been  navigated  thus  far. 
The  natural  advantages  of  Petersburg  will  no  doubt  make  it  in  time  a  town  of  im- 
portance, and  the  place  of  export  and  import  for  Sangamon  county.  The  first  sale 
of  lots  took  place  in  1835,  and  these  have  in  many  cas.es  been  resold  at  an  advance 
of  from  100  to  600  per  cent.  New  Salem,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Sangamon,  and 
19  or  20  miles  north-west  from  Springfield,  has  three  or  four  stores,  a  grist  and 
saw  mill,  and  about  30  families. 

It  is  proposed  to  erect  a  new  county  from  the  north-western  part  of  Sangamon. 
This  will  contain  about  15  full  townships,  or  540  square  miles  of  surface,  and  will 
include  within  its  boundaries  60  miles  of  the  lower  part  of  Sangamon  river,  with 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  105 


a  part  of  Salt  creek.  It  will  be  bounded  north  by  Tazewell,  south  by  part  of  San- 
gamon, and  on  the  north—west  by  the  north-east  corner  of  Schuyler  and  the  extreme 
south-east  corner  of  Fulton  county  :  from  the  two  last  it  will  be  separated  by'the 
Illinois  river.  Its  towns'will  be  Huron,  Petersburg,  New  Salem,  and  Athens,  be- 
fore noticed.  No  legislative  action  has  yet  taken  place  in  relation  to  the  above ; 
but  the  great  extent  and  rapidly  increasing  population  of  Sangamon  county,  will, 
no  doubt,  render  a  division  of  its  territory  necessary  in  a  short  time. 

SCHUYLER  County  lies  west  of  the  Illinois  river,  which  forms  its  eastern 
boundary,  and  separates  it  from  Morgan  and  Cass  counties  ;  on  the  north  are  Fulton 
and  M'Uonough,  on  the  south  and  on  the  west,  Adams  and  Hancock  counties.  It 
extends  from  north  to  south  30  miles,  and  from  east  to  west  from  36  to  18 ;  con- 
taining about  830  square  miles.  It  is  watered  by  the  Illinois  river,  and  by  Crook- 
ed, M'Kee's,  and  Sugar  creeks.  Along  the  Illinois  river  is  a  considerable  amount 
of  land  inundated  at  high  floods,  generally  heavily  timbered,  which  is  the  case 
with  more  than  one-half  the  county.  The  middle  and  northern  portions  are  divi- 
ded into  timber  and  p^oirie  of  an  excellent  quality.  Along  Crooked  creek  is  an 
extensive  body  of  fiyj«lnbe/.  Sugar  creek  also  furnishes  another  body  of  timber, 
eight  or  ten.in.iles  Differ  Rich  mines  of  iron  ore  have  lately  been  discovered  on 
Crooked  creelv.  The'  towns  in  this  county  are  Rushville,  Mount  Sterling,  Erie, 
La  Grange,  Brooklyn,  and  Schuyler. 

The  county  seat  is  Rushville,  which  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  prairie,  ten  miles 
from  the  Illinois  river,  and  about  north-west  from  BeanTstown. 

Mount  Sterling,  12  miles  from  the  Illinois  and  17  south-west  from  Rushville,  is 
a  thriving  village  of  about  50  houses.  It  was  laid  off  in  the  fall  of  1833,  but  did 
not  improve  much  until  1836:  it  now  contains  five  stores,  3  taverns,  a  church, 
a  school-house,  a  number  of  mechanics,  and  about  200  inhabitants.  Coal  of  a  good 
quality  is  found  within  one  mile  of  the  town. 

SHELBY  County  extends  36  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  30  from  north  to 
south,  containing  1080  square  miles;  and  lies  north  of  Fayette  and  Effingham 
counties,  south  of  Macon,  east  of  Coles,  and  west  of  Montgomery  and  Sangamon 
counties.  The  population  is  now  estimated  at  6,500.  It  is  watered  by  the  Kas- 
kaskia  and  its  branches,  also  by  the  head  streams  of  the  south  fork  of  the  Sanga- 
mon and  Little  Wabash  rivers.  This  county  has  a  large  amount  of  excellent  land, 
both  timber  and  prairie,  with  a  good  soil,  and  the  surface  moderately  undulating. 

Shelbyville,  the  County  Town,  is  situated  near  the  centre  of  the  county,  on  an 

elevated  site,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Kaskaskia  river,  40  miles  north-east  of 

Vandalia,  and  about  60  south-east  of  Springfield.     It  contains  several  stores  and 

groceries,  and  a  population  of  about  250  inhabitants.     The  settlements  around  it 

i  are  extensive,  and  the  country  fertile  and  productive. 

ST.  CLAIR  County  is  bounded,  north  by  Madison  county,  south  by  Randolph 
and  Monroe,  east  by  Clinton  and  Washington,  and  west  by  M'onroe  county  and  the 
Mississippi  river.    It  is  from  12  to  30  miles  in  length  and  thfljfeame  in  breadth,  and 
contains  an  area  of  about  6S4  square  miles.     This  county  is  watered  by  the  Kas- 
kaskia river,  and  Silver,  Richlnnd,  and  Cahokia  creeks;  on  the  west,  it  is  washed 
|  by  the  Mississippi.   The  surface  is  generally  undulating,  and  sometimes  hilly.    The 
!  ?oil  is  various;  much  of  it  is  firt-t-rate,  and  is  proportionably  divided  into  timber, 
|  prairie,  and  barrens.     On  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  the  low  and  fertile  alluvion 
of  the  American  Bottom  extends  through  the  county,  parallel  to  the  river.     Ex- 
tensive coal-banks  exist  a-lo»g  the  bluffs,  from  which  St.  Louis  is  partially  supplied 
with  fuel.     This  is  the  oldest  county  in  the  state,  and  was  formed  by  the  legisla- 
ture of  the  North- Western  territory  in  1794:  it  then  included  all  the  settlements 
on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Mississippi.     Its  inhabitants  in  1835  amounted  to  9055. 
Looking-Glass  Prairie  is  a  large,  rich,  beautiful,  and  undulating  tract,  lying  be- 
tween Silver  and  Sugar  creeks,  and  on  the  eastern  border  of  the  county.     It  com- 
mences near  the  base  line,  in  range  six  west,  and  extends  northward  about  twenty 
miles  into  Madison  county,  and  is  from  six  to  ten  miles  in  width.     Few  prairies  in 


106  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


the  state  present  more  eligible  situations  for  farms  than.,  this.     Extensive  settle- 
ments are  on  its  borders,  and  project  into  its  interior.        &,f    . 

Ogle's  Prairie,  five  miles  north  of  Belleville,  is  about^ve  miles  long,  and  from 
one  to  two  miles  wide,  surrounded,  and  partly  covered,  fcith  a  flourishing  settle- 
ment and  fine  farms.  It  is  a  rich,  rolling,  and  fertile  tract 

Union  Grove  is  on  the  borders  of  Looking-Glass  Prairie,  and  on  the  east  side  of 
Silver  creek.     The  land  is  excellent,  and  the  settlement  extensive.     It  is  some- : 
times  called,  Padfield's  Settlement.  s. 

Belleville,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  a  neat  and  thriving  vijgge,  situated  on  elevated 
ground,  13  miles  south-east  from  St.  Louis.  The  other  towns  are,  Lebanon,  Illi- 
nois Town,  Cahokia,  and  Prairie  du  Pont. 

STEPHENSON  County  extends  along  the  northern  boundary  of  the  state, 
and  is  in  length  from  east  to  west  27,  and  from  north  to  south  21  miles  in  extent ; 
containing  an  area  of  567  square  miles.  It  was  formed  in  1837  from  Jo  Daviess 
and  Winnebago  counties,  and  is  bounded  north  by  Wisconsin  Territory,  south  by 
Jo  Daviess  and  Ogle,  east  by  Winnebago,  and  west  by  Jo  J)aviess  county.  It  is 
traversed  by  the  Pekatonica  (a  fine  navigable  water,  of W»tYt.b()  JHjrds  in  width) 
and  its  branches  on  "the  north,  and  the  heads  of  Plum  creeWahdWheCi(Dall  streams 
in  the  south-west  The  surface  of  the  county  is  mostly  a  rich  and  umhjlating  prai- 
rie, with  tracts  of  hilly  barrens  and  oak  openings.  The  population  is  estimated  at 
frem  400  to  500,  and  is  rapidly  increasing.  Its  county  seat  is  iiQt.yet  established. 

•TAZEWELL  County  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Putnam,  south  by  Sangamon, 
east  by  M'Lean,  and  west  by  Peoria  and  pulton  counties,  from  which  it  is  sepa- 
rated by  the  Illinois  river.  Its. extent  from  north  to  south  is  48  miles;  from  east 
;  to  west,  on  the  southern  boundary,  45,  and  on  the  northern,  10  miles.  Area  in 
square  miles,  about  1220.  Much  of  the  soil  is  rich,  with  the  surface  undulating, 
in  which  prairie  land  predominates.  On  the  bluffs  of  the  Mackinaw  and  other 
streams,  the  land  is  broken,  and  the  timber  mostly  oak.  Tazewell  is  watered  on 
the  west  by  the  Illinois  river,  and  the  creeks  which  flow  into  it;  in  the  central  and 
northern  parts  of  the  county,  by  the  Mackinaw  river  and  its  branches ;  and  on  the 
south-east  by  Sugar  creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Sangamon  river. 

Tremont  is  the  seat  of  justice,  and  is  pleasantly  situated  in  a  beautiful  prairie, 
almost  half-way  between  Pekin  and  Mackinaw,  ten  miles  from  the  Illinois  river, 
and  nearly  in  the  centre  of  tjie  county.  It  was  laid  off  in  1835,  and  now  contains 
several  stores,  about  70  houses,  and  upwards  of  300  inhabitants.  The  other  towns  ( 
are  Pekin,  Wesley  City,  Havanna,  ^ikckinaw,  Dillon,  Bloomingdale,  Washington, 
Little  Detroit,  and  Hanover. 

Mackinaw,  formerly  the  >^at  of  justice  of  the  county,  is  situated  about  eight 
miles  east  of  Tremont.  The  situation  is  beautiful,  and  the  scenery  about  the  town 
highly  picturesque.  Mackinaw  river,  half  a  mile  distant,  furnishes  a  permanent 
and  extensive  water-power.  The  town  contains  about  100  inhabitants,  and  has  five 
stores.  The  advantages  which  Mackinaw  possesses  have  attracted  the  attention 
of  speculators  to  this  place,  and  large  investments  have  been  made  in  the  town  and 
its  vicinity.  The  excellent  and  well-settled  country  around,  the  eligibility  of  the 
site,  its  important  position  on  the  great  chain  of  internal  improvements, — and, 
above  all,  its  valuable  water-power,  so  much  needed  in  this  section  of  the  state, — 
must  ultimately  render  this  town  a  place  of  importance. 

Havanna  is  on  the  Illinois,  opposite  the  mouth  of  Spoon  river.  It  has  an  eligible 
situation  on  a  high  sand  ridge,  fifty  feet  above  the  highest  floods  of  the  river,  and 
is  well  situated  to  receive  the  trade  of  a  pretty  extensive  country  on  both  sides  of 
the  Illinois,  it  being  on  the  great  thoroughfare  from  Indiana,  by  Danville  and 
Springfield,  to  the  counties  that  lie  to  the  west  and  north. 

Washington  is  a  handsome  village  in  township  twenty-six  north,  three  west,  and 
14  miles  north  of  Tremont.     It  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  Holland's  Grove,  on 
'  the  border  of  a  delightful  prairie,  and  contains  five  stores,  two  groceries,  four  phy- 
sicians, various  mechanics,  a  steam  saw-mill,  and  about  300  inhabitants. 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


107 


UNION  County  is  situated  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state,  and  is  bounded 
north  by  the  counties  of  Jackson  and  Franklin,  east  by  Johnson,  south  by  Alexan- 
der, and  west  by  the  Mississippi  river.  Its  greatest  length  is  24  miles,  and  ita 
breadth  18;  area,  398  square  miles.  This  county  is  washed  on  the  west  by  the 
Mississippi  river ;  the.  interior  is  watered  by  Big-  Muddy  river,  Clear  creefc,  and  the 
sources  of  Cash  uvef.  Much  of  this  county  is  high  rolling  timber  land — the  soil 
is  mostly  second  JK.  third  rate,  with  some  rich  and  fertile  alluvial  bottom.  It  was 
formed  from  Johnson  in  1818,  and  in  1835  contained  4156  inhabitants. 

The  Grand  Tower  is-a-perpendicular  sand  rock,  rising  from  the  bed  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi in  the  north-west  corner  of  the  county,  and  a  short  distance  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Big  Muddy  river.  The  top  is  level,  seventy  or  eighty  feet  high,  and 
supports  a  stratum  of  soil  on  which  are  found  a  few  stunted  cedars  and  shrubs. 
Here  are  indications  that  a  barrier  of  rock  once  extended  ucross  the  Mississippi, 
and  formed  a  grand  cataract.  The  bed  of  the  river,  at  a  low  stage  of  water,  still 
exhibits  a  chain  of  sunken  rocks.  The  "Devil's  OVM,"  "Tea  Table,"  "Back 
Bone,"  &c.,  are  names  given  by  the  boatmen  of  the  Mississippi  to  the  singularly 
formed,  abrupt,  and  romantic  precipices  that  line  the  banks  of  that  river  in  the 
vicinity  of  the.  Grand  Tower. 

Evans's  Settlement  is  on  the  north  side,  and  near  the  head  of  Cash  river,  and  on 
the  eastern  bprder^or  tlie  county.  It  has  about  forty  families.  Ridge  Settlement 
lies  on  the  road  to  Brownsville,  and  extends  into|}&^son  county.  It  is  a  high, 
hilly,  timbered  tract  of  good  land,  well  watered,  and...  b.M^-om  one  hundred  to  one 
hundred  and  fifty  families.  Stokes's  Settlement,  in  thftfestern  part  of  the  county, 
near  the  head,  and  on  the  south  side  of  Ca>ii 'river,  c<xmjj&  one  hundred  families. 
The  surth.ce  of  the  land  is  rolling,  and  thi.-^oil  good.  >• 

Jonesborough,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  situated  in  a$fflfc -roll ing  tract  of  country, 
nine  miles  from  the  Mississippi  river.  The  surrounding*  country  is  undulating  and 
healthful,  containing  several  good  settlements.  *K  contains  the  county  buildings, 
several  stores,  &c.,  and  about  one  hundred  and  twenty'inhabitants. 

VERMILLION  County  lies  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  state,  and  adjoining  the 
neighbouring  state  of  Indiana.  It  is  situated  north  of  Edgar,  south  of  Iroquois, 
east  of  Champaign  county,  and  west  of  the  state  of  Indiana.  Its  extent  from  north 
to  south  is  42  miles,  and  from  cast  to  west  24 ;  area,  1008  square  miles.  The  Big 
Vermillion  river,  with  its  North,  Middle  and  Saline  Forks,  and  Little  Vermillion 
river,  water  the  county.  There  we  large  bodies  of  excellent  timber  along  the 
streams,  and  rich  prairies  between  them,  the  surface  of- which  is  undulating  and 
dry,  and  the  soil  rich,  deep,  and  calcareous.  Large  amounts  of  the  agricultural 
produce  common  to  Illinois  are  exported  to  the  towns  on  the  Wabash,  and  thence 
to  New-Orleans.  Salt,  manufactured  at  the  salt-works  on  the  Saline  fork  of  Big 
Vermillion,  and  six  miles  west  of  Danville,  is  also  exported  to  the  adjacent  districts. 

This  county  was  organized  in  1826,  and  in  1885  numbered  8103  inhabitants. 
Between  this  county  aud  Iroquois  on  the  east,  and  M'Lean  on  the  west,  and  north 
of  Champaign,  extends  a  strip  of  territory  mostly  18  miles  wide  and  48  in  length, 
and  comprising  an  area  of  780  square  miles,  which  has  notJMt  received  any  dis- 
tinctive appellation,  but  is  at  present  attached  to  VermilliorwRunty :  it  is  nearly 
all  prairie,  some  of  it  wet  and  marshy,  containing  the  ponds  and  swamps  giving 
rise  to  the  Vermillion  river  of  Illinois,  the  north  fork  of  Sangamon,  the  middle  fork 
of  Saline  river,  and  others.  It  is  but  thinly  settled,  and  will  probably  remain  so  for 
some  time  to  come. 

Danville,  the  county  seat  of  Vermillion,  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Big 
Vermillion  river,  on  a  dry,  sandy,  and  elevated  surface,  surrounded  with  heavy  tim- 
ber on  the  east,  north,  and  west,  but  open  to  the  prairie  on  the  south.  The  coun- 
try around  is  populous,  and  the  land  rich.  It  contains  a  number  of  stores  and  gro- 
ceries, several  professional  men,  various  mechanics,  and  the  land-office  for  the 
Danville  Land  District;  together  with  Methodist,  Baptist,  and  Presbyterian 
churches,  and  about  350  inhabitants.  It  is  a  thriving  town,  and,  on  the  completion 
of  the  Wabash  and  Mississippi  rail-road,  which  will  pass  through  it,  will  no  doubt 
receive  a  great  accession  of  business  and  population. 


108  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


The  other  towns  in  Vermillion  county  are  all  small,  having  been  but  lately 
settled :  they  are  George  Town,  Chillicothe,  Greenville,  Shepherds  Town,  and 
Salem. 

WABASH  County,  the  smallest  in  Illinois,  is  situated  in  the  south-eastern  sec- 
tion of  the  state,  on  the  W abash  river.  It  was  formed  from  Edwards  in  1824,  and 
lies  south  of  Lawrence,  east  of  Edwards  county,  and  west  of  ffcfc^tate  of  Indiana. 
Its  greatest  length  is  about  23  miles,  and  breadth  from  10  to  18  miles;  area,  about 
180  square  miles.  This  county  is  watered  by  the  VVabash  river  "on  its  eastern, 
and  Bon  Pas  creek  on  its  western  border,  and  several  small  creeks  in  the  central 
parts.  It  contains  a  considerable  amount  of  good  land,  both  timber  and  prairie, 
and  a  full  proportion  of  industrious  and  thriving  farmers.  The  inhabitants,  in  1835, 
amounted  to  3010. 

Long  Prairie  settlement  is  13  miles  north-west  from  Mount  Carmel.  The  land 
is  undulating,  and  the  soil  «ocond-rate.  The  population  of  the  settlement  amounts 
to  about  25  or  30  families.  The  Timbered  Settlement  includes  the  north-east 
quarter  of  the  county,  and  is  ten  miles  from  Mount  Carmel.  It  contains  60  or  70 
families.  The  timber  is  excellent. 

The  county  seat,  Mount  Carmel,  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Wabash 
river,  a  short  distance  below  the  Grand  Rapids,  and  nearly  opposite  to  the  mouths 
of  the  White  and  Patoka  riv&s  of  Indiana.  It  is  109  miles  south-west  from  Van- 
dal ia,  and  716  from  Washington  City. 

Selma,  adjoining  Mount  Carmel,  is  a  new  town,  lately  laid  out.  A  number  of 
lots  have  been  sold,  and  some  improvements  have  takeu  place. 

WARREN  County  is:in  the  western  part  of  the  Military  Bounty  Tract.  It  lies 
on  the  Mississippi  river,  north  of  Hancock  and  M'Donough  counties,  south  of  Mer- 
cer, east  of  Knox  and  Schiiyler,  west  of  Des  Moincs  and  Louisa  counties,  Wiscon- 
sin Territory.  It  is  from  36  to  26  miles  in  extent  from  east  to  west,  and  30  from 
north  to  south  ;  and  contains  about  900  square  miles. 

This  county  was  formed  from  Pike  in  1825,  and  in  1835  contained  2623  inhabit- 
ants. It  has  a  large  amount  of  first-rate  land,  both  prairie  and  timbered :  the  latter 
is  supposed  to  comprise  about  one-fifth  of  the  whole,  and  is  generally  well  distrib- 
uted. The  most  extensive  forests  are  found  on  the  Mississippi,  and  on  Henderson 
river ;  but  timber  exists  more  or  less  on  all  the  streams  in  the  county.  Much  of 
the  bottom-land  that  lies  on  the  Mississippi  is  low,  subject  to  inundation,  and  has  a 
series  of  sand  ridges  back  of  it,  with  bold  and  pointed  bluffs  further  in  the  rear. 

The  streams  which  water  the  interior  of  the  county  are  Henderson  river  and 
its  branches,  also  Ellison,  Honey,  and  Camp  creeks,  which  flow  into  the  Mississippi, 
and  the  South  and  Cedar  forks  of  Spoon  river.  Limestone  exists  in  great  abund- 
ance, and  extensive  beds  of  good  stone-coal  have  been  found  in  the  eastern  parts 
of  the  county.  About  five  miles  north-west  from  Monmouth,  there  has  been  dis- 
covered, and  worked  to  some  extent,  a  quarry  of  freestone,  which  is  susceptible 
of  a  handsome  polish,  and  answers  well  for  the  sills  of  doors  and  windows,  tomb- 
stones, &c.  Two  or^three  grindstone  quarries  have  been  discovered,  and  are  now 
all  successfully  worked. 

Monmouth,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  situated  in  the  prairie,  two  and  a  half  miles 
south  of  the  Cedar  fork  of  Henderson's  river.  It  was  laid  off  in  1831,  but  advanced 
so  slowly  that  until  1835  only  seven  buildings  had  been  erected.  It  now  contains 
80  houses,  and  about  400  inhabitants.  The  land  in  the  vicinity  is  very  fertile,  and 
produces  abundantly  all  the  staples  of  this  region. 

The  other  towns  are  Oquawka  or  Yellow  Banks,  Benton,  and  Shokokon,  all  on 
the  Mississippi ;  Little  York,  Savannah,  Bowling  Green,  Greenfield,  Geneva,  New 
Lancaster,  and  Olean. 

Oquawka,  or  Yellow  Banks,  is  a  town  recently  settled.  It  is  situated  on  the 
Mississippi  river,  about  midway  between  the  Des  Moines  and  Rock  Island  Rapids, 
and  is  the  principal  depot  for  freight  between  those  points.  The  town  is  laid  out 
in  two  sections,  on  an  extensive  scale.  The  soil  is  sandy ;  and  the  surface,  gently 
undulating,  is  sparsely  covered  with  a  stinted  growth  of  oaks,  extending  to  the 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  109 


bluff,  two  miles  back.  Henderson  river,  a  fine  stream  for  milling  purposes,  passes 
along  the  foot  of  these,  and  is  crossed  by  a  neat  and  substantial  bridge*  There  are 
two  large  ware-houses  in  the  town,  one  store,  one  grocery,  two  taverns,  and  several 
dwelling-houses.  There  is  a  good  flouring  and  eaw-mill  about  two  miles  distant ; 
and  a  steam-mill  is  about  to  be  erected. 

The  site  of  this  place  was  sold  by  the  original  to  the  present  proprietor  for  200 
dollars,  by  whom  a  fourth  part  of  it  was  transferred  last  autumn  to  an  enterprising 
land  dealer  for  24,000  dollars,  who  has  since  realized  from  the  sale  of  individual 
lots  the  full  amount  paid  for  the  whole,  and  yet  has  parted  with  only  a  small  part 
of  his  purchase.  The  lots  sold  a  year  ago  have  in  many  cases  changed  hands  at 
an  advance  of  one  hundred  per  cent  The  proprietors  of  the  town  purpose  making 
a  rail-road  from  hence  to  Peoria,  on  the  Illinois  river.  By  far  the  greater  portion 
of  this  distance  is  over  a  nearly  level  prairie,  admitting  of  the  contemplated  con- 
struction at  a  very  moderate  expense. 

WASHINGTON  County  is  situated  between  Clinton  county  on  the  north, 
Perry  and  Randolph  on  the  south,  Jefferson  on  the  east,  and  St.  Clair  on  the  west 
It  forms  a  parallelogram  of  30  miles  in  length  and  18  in  breadth,  with  an  area  of 
560  square  miles.  This  county  is  watered  by  the  Kaskaskia  river  (which  traverses 
its  extreme  north-west  quarter),  and  its  tributaries  Crooked,  Elkhorn,  and  Mud 
creeks ;  also  by  Beaucoup  and  Muddy  creeks,  which  flow  into  Big  Muddy  river. 
The  banks  of  all  these  streams  are  generally  well  timbered ;  but  in  the  interior 
the  prairies  are  extensive,  and  sometimes  sterile.  The  surface  is  generally  level, 
and  the  soil  mostly  second-rate.  Some  of  the  southern  points  of  the  Grand  Prairie 
pass  through  the  north-east  corner  of  the  county.  It  was  organized  in  1818,  and 
in  1835  contained  3292  inhabitants. 

Nashville,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  a  pleasant  village,  48  miles  nearly  south-east 
from  St  Louis,  and  on  the  main  road  to  Shawneetown.  It  is  situated  on  a  beautiful 
and  elevated  prairie,  near  the  head  of  Little  Crooked  creek,  two  and  a  half  miles 
south-east  from  the  centre  of  the  county.  It  has  several  stores  and  mechanics,  a 
steam-mill,  and  a  population  of  from  100  to  120. 

The  Grand  Point  settlement  is  on  a  creek  about  six  miles  north-east  from  Nash- 
ville, and  contains  about  20  families.  The  creek  runs  north,  and  enters  Crooked 
creek. 

WAYNE  County  forms  a  square  of  24  miles  each  way,  and  contains  an  area 
of  576  square  miles.  On  the  north  it  is  bounded  by  Clay  county,  south  by  Hamil- 
ton and  White,  east  by  Edwards,  and  west  by  Jefferson  and  Marion.  The  streams 
which  water  this  county  are  Elm  creek  and  Skillet  Fork,  both  tributaries  of  the 
Little  Wabash  river.  It  is  handsomely  interspersed  with  woodland  and  prairie, 
and  contains  several  saline  springs.  The  soil  is  mostly  second-rate.  This  county 
was  organized  from  Edwards  in  1819,  and  contained  in  1835  a  population  of  2939 
individuals. 

Hargrave's  Settlement  is  on  the  Prairie  adjoining  Fairfield,  which  is  about  seven 
miles  long  and  two  wide ;  rolling,  and  thin  soil.  Population  about  100  families. 

Herrington's  Settlement,  about  eleven  miles  north-west  from  Fairfield,  is  on 
Herrington's  Prairie,  which  is  eight  miles  long  and  from  two  to  four  miles  wide  ; 
surface  rolling,  soil  second-rate  ;  population  about  50  families. 

Hickory  Hill  Settlement  is  18  miles  west  from  Fairfield,  and  on  the  west  side 
of  the  Skillet  Fork.  The  land  is  a  mixture  of  timber  and  prairie,  soil  second  qual- 
ity, and  a  population  of  about  50  familiea 

Indian  Prairie  lies  ten  miles  north-westerly  from  Fairfield ;  surface  level,  soil 
of  an  inferior  quality,  with  a  scattering  settlement  of  15  or  20  families. 

Martin's  Creek  Settlement  is  situated  on  a  creek  of  the  same  name,  five  miles 
north  of  Fairfield.  The  settlement  consists  of  50  or  60  families.  The  creek  is  a 
branch  of  Elm  river. 

Fairfield,  the  seat  of  justice  of  Wayne  county,  is  on  the  border  of  Hargrave's 
Prairie,  69  miles  south-east  from  Vandalia,  and  36  west  from  Mount  Carmel.  It 
contains  several  stores,  a  handsome  court-house,  and  about  160  inhabitants. 

10 


110  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


WHITE  County  is  situated  in  the  south-eastern  part  of  the  state.  It  extends 
from  east  to  west  from  27  to  22  miles,  and  from  north  to  south  23£  miles ;  con- 
taining a  superficies  of  about  476  square  miles.  -It  is  bounded  north  by  Edwards 
and  Wayne  counties,  south  by  Gallatin,  east  by  the  Wabash  river,  which  separates 
it  from  the  state  of  Indiana,  and  west  by  Hamilton  county.  The  Wabash  river 
washes  the  eastern  boundary  of  this  county,  and  the  interior  is  watered  by  the  Lit- 
tle Wabash  and  its  tributaries.  The  banks  of  all  these  are  generally  well  timber- 
ed ;  in  the  interior  are  many  prairies,  most  of  which  are  now  well  cultivated.  A 
large  amount  of  agricultural  produce  is  annually  exported  from  this  and  the  ad- 
joining counties  to  the  southern  parts  of  the  Mississippi  valley.  White  county 
was  organized  from  Gallatin  in  1815,  and  in  1835  contained  6489  inhabitants. 

In  the  north-eastern  part  of  the  county  is  a  bayou  called  Fox  River  that  puts  out 
from  the  Big  Wabash,  runs  a  few  miles,  and  again  enters  that  river.  The  late 
Morris  Birkbeck,  Esq.,  known  as  one  of  the  English  emigrants  to  Edwards  county, 
and  author  of  "  Letters  from  Illinois"  was  unfortunately  drowned  in  attempting  to 
swim  this  stream  on  horseback. 

The  county  seat,  Carmi,  is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  qounty,  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Little  Wabash  river,  about  20  miles  above  its  mouth,  and  80  miles 
south-east  from  Vandalia.  It  is  surrounded  by  land  of  a  good  quality,  and  is  a 
flourishing  village,  containing  several  stores,  &c.,  a  neat  court-house,  and  about 
250  inhabitants.  -  ^^1 

WHITESIDE  Countif,  waaiormed  from  Jo  Daviess  in  1836,  and  lies  south  o£ 
that  county,  north  of  Henry,  west  of  Ogle,  and  east  of  Rock  Island  county  and  the 
Mississippi  river.  It  extends  from  north  to  south  24  miles,  and  from  east  to  west 
from  27  to  36  miles ;  containing  an  area  of  about  712  square  miles.  It  is  watered 
by  Rock  river,  which  passes  through  it  from  north-east  to  south-west,  Little  Rock 
river,  Wood  creek,  &c.  It  has  some  tracts  of  heavy  timber  along  Rock  river  and 
Little  Rock,  besides  groves,  copses,  and  bushy  swamps.  Some  of  its  prairie  land 
is  flat,  while  other  portions  are  beautifully  undulating  and  rich. 

One  mile  below  Albany,  the  Marais  de  Ogee,  or  the  Meridosia,  puts  into  the 
Mississippi,  or  rather,  as  is  the  fact  at  present,  the  Mississippi  runs  through  the 
Meridosia  into  Rock  river.  The  Meridosia  is  a  portion  of  bottom-land,  from  five 
rods  to  five  miles  in  width,  running  from  the  Mississippi  to  Rock  river  in  a  direc- 
tion nearly  south,  with  a  deep  channel  some  part  of  the  way.  To  the  east  of  it, 
the  bluff  is  covered  with  beautiful  groves.  TJie  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Albany, 
and  along  Rock  river,  is  well  known  as  being  unsurpassed.  Indeed,  the  whole 
country,  except  the  swamps,  is  destined  to  support  a  dense  population.  Two  years 
since,  it  was  not  known,  and  there  were  but  a  few  individuals  within  its  present 
boundary :  now,  it  is  estimated  to  contain  a  population  of  1500  persons,  a  large 
majority  of  whom  have  been  here  but  a  few  months. 

The  towns,  or  rather  villages,  in  this  county,  have  been  only  recently  laid  off, 
and  are  hardly  yet  settled.  They  are,  Illinois  City  on  Little  Rock  river,  and  Van 
Buren  and  Albany,  both  on  the  Mississippi.  Albany  was  laid  out  last  October,  on 
the  Great  Eastern  Bend  of  the  Mississippi,  thirty-five  miles  from  Stephenson,  and 
sixty  from  Galena,  The  town  site,  and  the  country  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  are 
highly  picturesque  and  beautiful,  in  some  parts  quite  romantic.  The  landing  is 
good,  the  water  increasing  in  depth  from  the  shore  as  half  to  one,  until  it  is  from 
twelve  to  twenty-five  feet.  From  the  river  the  ground  rises  at  an  angle  of  some 
twenty  to  thirty  degrees,  until  it  reaches  the  height  of  the  surrounding  country. 
One  hundred  and  thirty-three  blocks  of  lots  have  been  laid  off.  Thirteen  streets, 
in  width  from  66  to  100  feet,  run  at  nearly  right  angles  from  the  river.  Liberal 
reserves  are  made  for  public  benefit,  for  churches,  and  schools.  There  are  now 
built  and  building  some  fifteen  dwelling-houses,  stores,  &c.,  and  twice  that  num- 
ber under  contract.  A  steam  saw-mill,  now  erecting,  will  soon  be  completed, 
which  will  much  facilitate  building. 

WILL  County  is  situated  in  the  north-eastern  part  of  the  state,  and  is  bounded 
north  by  Cook,  south  by  Iroquois,  and  west  by  La  Salle  county ;  on  the  east  it  has 


SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS.  Ill 


Lake  and  Newton  counties,  Indiana,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  eastern 
boundary  of  the  state.  It  is  in  length  from  north  to  south  on  the  western  side  42, 
on  the  east  30  miles,  and  varies  in  breadth  from  east  to  west  from  12  to  38  miles; 
and  containing  an  area  of  1320  square  miles.  It  was  formed  in  1836,  and  is  esti- 
mated to  contain  3500  inhabitants. 

The  streams  which  water  this  county  are  the  Kankakee  and  its  tributaries,  also 
the  Des  Plaines  and  Du  Page,  together  with  some  branches  of  the  Calumet  river 
and  Mason  creek.  Much  of  the  land  is  of  first-rate  quality :  there  are  prairies  of 
considerable  extent,  and  a  good  deal  of  timber  in  many  parts,  lying  chiefly  in 
groves,  and  along  the  banks  of  the  rivers  and  creeks.  The  Illinois  and  Michigan 
canal  will  pass  through  the  county  in  a  south-westerly  direction  along  the  valley 
of,  and  parallel  to,  the  Des  Plaines  river. 

In  the  north-west  part  of  the  county,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Des  Plaines  river, 
and  about  16  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Kankakee,  is  Mount  Joliet.  It  is 
in  the  midst  of  a  large  plain,  covered  in  summer  with  short,  thin  grass,  and  which 
bears  striking  marks  of  having  been  once  inundated.  Its  size  is  variously  esti- 
mated. Beck,  in  his  Gazetteer,  states,  "It  is  three  or  four  hundred  yards  in  length, 
north  and  south,  and  two  or  three  hundred  in  breadth,  east  and  west,  and  is  in  the 
form  of  a  pyramid."  Several  gentlemen,  who  have  passed  this  mound  without 
stopping  particularly  to  measure  it,  have  estimated  its  length  one  mile,  its  breadth, 
at  the  base,  half  a  mile,  and  its  height  one  hundred  and  fiity  feet.  It  appears  to 
be  an  immense  pile  of  sand  and  pebbles,  similafjta  tfoe;sand  ridges  along  the  Illinois 
river.  This  name  was  given  by  the  companion^  of  Joliet,  who  visited  this  country 
in  1673.  , 

About  two  miles  below  Mount  Joliet,  and  on 'f  he  snipe  side  of  the  river,  there  is 
a  similar  elevation  called  Mount  Flatheaa.  It  extends  near  two  miles  in  length; 
the  north  end  is  rounded — the  south  end  irregularly  shaped — its  contents  sand, 
gravel,  and  coarse  pebbles,  worn  smooth  by  water  frietion. 

The  towns  in  Will  county  are  all  of  recent  origin,  and  mostly  small :  they  are, 
Juliet,  the  seat  of  justice,  Plainfield,  Lockport,  Winchester,  Lancaster,  &c. 

Plainfield  is  in  the  north-west  part  of  the  county,  about  nine  miles  from  Juliet, 
and  on  the  direct  mail  road,  nearly  half-way  between  Chicago  and  Ottawa.  It  is 
beautifully  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  Du  Page  river,  on  a  fine  and  undulating 
prairie,  and  contains  about  400  inhabitants.  It  has  two  stores,  two  taverns,  several 
mechanical  trades,  a  Methodist  and  a  Baptist  congregation. 

Lockport  is  a  town  site  lately  laid  off  on  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal,  at  the 
termination  of  the  lake  level,  thirty-four  and  a  half  miles  frorh  Chicago.  Here 
will  be  two  locks  established,  each  often  feet  lift,  which  will  give  twenty  feet  fall 
for  the  immense  quantity  of  surplus  water  that  can  be  brought  from  Lake  Michi- 
gan, equal  to  10,000  cubic  feet  every  minute,  after  supplying  the  canal,  and 
making  full  allowance  for  leakage,  evaporation,  &c.,  enough  to  drive  234  pairs  of 
millstones,  four  and  a  half  feet  diameter.  A  large  town,  and  extensive  manufac- 
turing operations,  will  doubtless  arise  here,  as  soon  as  the  canal  is  completed. 
Near  this  place,  the  Des  Plaines  river  has  fifteen  feet  fall.  Adjoining  to  Lockport, 
the  town  of  East  Lockport  has  been  lately  laid  off. 

Winchester  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Kankakee  river,  about  nine  miles  from 
its  mouth,  and  eighteen  nearly  south  from  Juliet.  It  is  at  the  junction  of  Fork 
creek  with  the  Kankakee,  and  is  a  lately  settled  town,  containing  only  a  few 
houses,  a  store,  a  tavern,  two  saw--mills,  &c.  Yankee  Settlement  is  in  the  north- 
east part  of  the  county,  from  six  to  eight  miles  north-east  from  Juliet.  It  is  in  a 
rich  undulating  prairie,  and  contains  a  considerable  population  of  thriving  and 
industrious  New  England  farmers.  Emmettsburg  is  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Des 
Plaines  river,  and  on  the  line  of  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal,  a  few  miles  north 
of  Juliet.  It  is  a  settlement  inhabited  by  Irish  and  German  Roman  Catholics. 

WINNEBAGO  County  is  one  of  the  most  northern  counties  of  Illinois,  lying 
immediately  south  of  the  state  line.  It  is  bounded  north  by  Rock  and  Iowa  coun- 
ties of  Wisconsin  Territory,  south  by  Ogle,  east  by  Boone,  and  west  by  Stephen- 
son  county.  It  extends  from  east  to  west  24,  and  from  north  to  south  21  miles, 


112  SKETCHES  OF  ILLINOIS. 


containing  an  area  of  504  square  miles.  It  was  formed  from  Jo  Daviess  and  the 
attached  portion  of  La  Salle  county,  in  January  1836;  from  which  parts  of  Ste- 
phenson  and  Boone  counties  have  since  been  detached. 

The  county  extends  on  both  sides  of  Rock  river,  which  traverses  it  nearly  from 
north  to  south,  and  furnishes  an  immense  water-power,  especially  at  the  rapids, 
where  the  town  of  Rockford,  or  Midway,  is  laid  off:  here  there  are  mills,  store- 
houses, and  dwellings  erecting.  The  other  streams  are  the  Pekatonica  or  the 
Peekatonokee  and  its  branches,  which  also  abound  in  good  mill-seats.  The  lands 
granted  to  the  Polish  emigrants  by  Congress  are  situated  in  this  county.  There 
is  much  excellent  land  here :  the  timber  is  in  groves  and  detached  portions,  and 
the  prairies  undulating  and  abundantly  rich.  This,  in  common  with  all  the  north- 
ern counties,  is  filling  up  rapidly  with  an*  industrious  and  enterprizing  population. 
The  inhabitants  of  Winnebago  county  are  estimated  at  from  1200  to  1500. 

Its  seat  of  justice  is  not  yet  established,  but  will  probably  be  fixed  at  the  town 
of  Winnebago,  just  laid  out.  This  town  is  on  the  west  bank  of  Rock  River,  on  a 
beautiful,  high,  and  dry  prairie,  about  half-way  between  Galena  and  Chicago.  The 
river  is  navigable  to  this  place  for  steamboats,  and  a  free  ferry  is  established.  Some 
buildings  are  now  in  progress  of  erection. 

______^_ 

NEW   COUNTIES. 

IN  addition  to  the  foregoing  counties,  noticed  in  alphabetical  order,  provision  was 
conditionally  made  by  law,  at  the  last  session  of  the  state  legislature,  for  the  or- 
ganization of  several  new  counties,  provided  that,  at  an  election  to  be  held  subse- 
quently, a  majority  of  the  votes  of  the  people  belonging  to  the  counties  from  which 
they  were  detached  should  be  given  in  favour  of  such  formation.  The  proposed 
new  counties  are  BUREAU,  COFFEE,  DE  KALB,  and  MICHIGAN. 

BUREAU  County,  to  be  formed  from  the  northern  part  of  Putnam  county,  will 
be  bounded  north  by  Whiteside  and  Ogle,  south  by  Putnam  and  Coffee,  east  by 
La  Salle,  and  west  by  Henry  county.  The  streams  which  traverse  this  district 
are  the  head  branches  of  Spoon  river,  and  Bureau  and  Little  Bureau  creeks :  these 
are  all  beautiful  clear  streams,  and  furnish  excellent  mill-seats.  It  contains  fine 
tracts  of  land,  beautiful  groves  of  timber,  and  rich,  undulating,  and  dry  prairies. 
There  are  several  considerable  settlements  in  this  region  of  country,  inhabited  by 
industrious  and  thriving  farmers. 

The  county  seat  will  probably  be  at  Princeton :  this  place  is  about  ten  miles 
north-west  from  Hennepin,  the  seat  of  justice  of  Putnam  county :  it  was  located 
by  colonists  from  Northampton,  Massachusetts,  in  1833  ;  contains  a  post-office  of 
the  same  name,  and  is  in  the  heart  of  the  Bureau  Settlement,  which  is  in  a  flour- 
ishing condition,  and  surrounded  by  a  considerable  body  of  rich  and  fertile  land. 

COFFEE  County  will  be  formed  from  Putnam,  Knox,  and  Henry  counties, 
chiefly  from  the  former :  it  will  be  bounded  north  by  Bureau  and  Henry,  south  by 
Peoria,  east  by  Putnam,  and  west  by  Henry  county.  This  district  consists  chiefly 
of  beautiful  rolling  prairies,  which  contain  a  great  amount  of  excellent  land,  with 
much  valuable  timber,  scattered  in  groves  and  along  the  banks  of  the  larger 
streams.  It  is  watered  by  the  main  and  western  branches  of  the  Spoon  river,  and 
their  tributaries. 

The  towns,  which  are  both  quite  recent  and  small,  are  La  Fayette  and  Wyo- 
ming: the  latter,  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  Spoon  river,  will  probably  be  the 
seat  of  justice.  It  is  about  35  miles  north-north-west  from  Peoria,  on  the  road 
from  that  place  to  the  mouth  of  Rock  river. 

DE  KALB  will  contain  the  western  part  of  Kane  county.  This  tract  is  mostly 
a  fine  undulating  prairie  country,  with  a  rich  soil,  and  but  sparingly  wooded.  The 


SKETCHES  OF.  ILLINOIS.  113 


timber  is  chiefly  in  groves  and  scattered  portions  of  oak  openings;  resembling  that 
of  the  adjacent  counties,  of  which  oaks  of  various  kinds,  sugar-maple,  Walnut, 
white  and  black,  hickory  and  ash  of  different  species,  are  the  principal  varieties. 
The  streams  all  furnish  excellent  mill-seats,  and  in  some  of  them  saw  and  flouring 
mills  are  already  built.  They  are  Rock,  Somonauk  and  Indian  creeks,  all  branches 
of  Fox  river,  and  the  southern  tributaries  of  Sycamore  or  Kishwaukee  creek, 
which  runs  into  Rock  river.  The  county  will  be  bounded  by  Boone  on  the  north, 
and  La  Salle  on  the  south,  Kane  east,  and  Ogle  west. 

MICHIGAN  County,  to  be  formed  from  the  western  part  of  Cook,  will  be  sit- 
uated north  of  Will,  south  of  M'Henry,  east  of  Kane,  and  west  of  Cook  counties. 
The  rivers  which  run  through  this  district  are  the  Des  Planes  and  its  branches  on 
the  east  side,  and  the  Du  Page  on  the  west.  It  is  a  fine  region  of  country,  in 
which  the  streams  are  perennial,  and  the  soil  rich  and  covered  with  luxuriant  her- 
bage. The  surface  is  tolerably  level,  with  large  prairies,  and  the  timber  in  groves 
scattered  through  them  and  along  the  banks  of  the  streams. 

The  towns  in  this  district  are  small,  and  of  recent  formation :  they  are,  Napiers- 
ville,  Warrenton,  and  Lyons.  The  first-named  place  is  situated  about  24  miles 
west-sou  th-we^tfrom  Chicago,  and  contains  about  250  inhabitants,  four  stores,  a 
saw  and  grist  mm  and  a  school.  The  country  around  is  dry,  with  an  undulating" 
surface  and  ricV$pik  Warrenton  is  four  miles  north  of  Napiersville.  Lyons  is  on 
the  Des  Plaines  river;  about  twelve  miles  north-west  from  Chicago :  it  contains  a 
tavern,  saw-mill,  and  a  few  dwelling-houses.  A 


SKETCHES 

OF 

THE  CITIES  AND  PRINCIPAL  TOWNS 

IN 

THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS. 


THE  City  of  ALTON  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi  river,  two 
miles  above  the  Missouri,  18  miles  below  the  Illinois  river,  and  about  1200  from 
New  Orleans.  This  place  was  laid  out  in  1818,  but  it  is  only  within  the  last  three 
or  four  years  that  public  attention  has  been  turned  to  it  as  an  emporium  of  trade. 

Up  to  the  year  1832,  it  contained  only  two  or  three  dozen  houses  and  a  steam- 
mill  :  in  that  year  the  State  Penitentiary  was  erected  here.  The  population  is 
now  estimated  at  2500,  and  the  number  of  houses  is  300.  Since  the  spirit  of  im- 
provement began,  it  has  met  with  nothing  to  retard  it;  but  employment  has  been 
given  to  every  building  mechanic  that  could  be  procured.  A  large  proportion  of 
the  buildings  are  of  the  most  substantial  kind,— 'massive  stone  ware-houses.  Many 
of  the  private  residences  are  of  finely  wrought  stone  or  brick,  and  highly  orna- 
mental, though  the  larger  portion  of  both  business  and  dwelling-houses  are  tempo- 
rary frames  of  one  story.  The  streets  are  generally  40  and  60  feet  wide,  and 
State  street  (the  principal  one  running  at  right  angles  from  the  river)  is  80.  The 
rates  of  building  are  as  high,  probably,  as  in  any  part  of  the  union ;  yet  rents  are 
much  higher  in  proportion ;  every  house  bringing  from  15  to  30  per  cent  upon  its 
cost,  including  the  price  of  the  lot. 

P  10  * 


114  SKETCHES:  OF  THE  CITIES 


The  following  enumeration  will  give  some  idea  of  the  business  of  the  place : 
There  are  20  wholesale  stores,  one  of  which  imports  directly  from  Europe,  besides  j 
32  retail  stores,  some  of  which  sell  also  at  wholesale.  The  various  branches  of  the 
mechanic  arts  are  also  carried  on,  though  the  greater  portion  of  the  articles  used 
is  brought  from  abroad.  There  are  here  eight  attorneys,  seven  physicians,  and 
eight  clergymen,  attached  to  the  following  denominations,  viz :  three  Protestant 
Methodist,  two  Presbyterian,  one  Baptist,  one  Episcopal,  and  one  Episcopal  Metho- 
dist. These  have  a  church  for  each  denomination,  some  of  which,  in  their  appear- 
ance, would  do  credit  to  the  oldest  towns  in'the  west.  There  are  four  hotels,  and 
two  others  building;  one  of  which,  of  stone,  will  be  60  feet  by  175.  Besides  these, 
there  are  nine  boarding-houses,  all  of  which  are  crowded  with  sojourners,  either 
temporary  or  permanent.  The  public  institutions  are  a  bank  (branch  of  the  State 
Bank  of  Illinois),  insurance  office,  lyceum,  masonic  lodge,  lodge  of  independent  odd 
fellows,  and  two  schools.  The  lyceum  attracts  the  greater  portion  of  the  young 
men  of  the  town,  who  engage  in  the  public  discussion  of  questions,  and  hear  lec- 
tures from  gentlemen  of  science,  -Who  are  also  its  members. 

There  are  two  temperance  societies,  one  on  the  total  abstinence  plan,  which  is 
the  most  popular,  and  is  daily  becoming  more  so.  There  are  four  newspapers,  viz : 
the  Alton  Spectator,  Alton  Telegraph,  Alton  Observer,  Temperance  Herald. 

The  legislature  of  Illinois  have  memorialized  Congress  repeatedly  to  have  the 
great  national  road,  now^pnstructing  through  Ohio,  Indiana,  and  Illinois,  cross  the 
Mississippi  at  this  place  ;^ and  sanguine  hopes  are  entertained  that  the  wishes  of 
Illinois  in  this  particular  \yill  be  (July  regarded. 

Building  mechanics  of  all  kinds  are  constantly  wanted.  The  following  wages 
are  paid  :  bricklayers,  'J.50  to  3  dollars  per  day  ;  stone-masons,  2  to  2.50;  labour- 
ers, 1.50.  Where  the  men  are  boarded  by  the  employer,  a  deduction  of  50  cents 
per  day  is  made  from  these  rates.  Board  at  the  hotels  is  3  to  4  dollars  per  week, 
without  lodging;  for  lodging,  1  to  1.50  additional:  at  the  boarding-houses,  2.50  to 
3,  lodging  included.  Brick  at  the  kiln  sell  for  7  to  9  dollars  per  1000 ;  pine  boards, 
25  to  40  per  1000,  (they  are  brought  from  the  Ohio  river) ;  wood  for  fuel,  $3  per 
cord ;  coal,  20  cents  per  bushel.  The  latter  is  obtained  from  the  hills,  one  mile  in 
the  rear  of  the  town ;  and  both  wood  and  coal  can  be  got  for  very  little  more  than 
the  cost  of  cutting,  digging,  and  hauling.  The  comparatively  high  price  at  which 
both  sell,  will  furnish  another  evidence  of  the  high  prices  of  labour,  and  assure 
eastern  labourers,  who  are  working  at  this  season  of  the  year  for  40  cents  a  day, 
that  here  they  may  soon  realize  a  little  fortune. 

This  city  is  surrounded  for  several  miles  in  extent  with  one  of  the  finest  bodies 
of  timber  in  the  state,  from  which  vast  quantities  of  lumber  may  be  produced. 
Bituminous  coal  exists  in  great  abundance  at  only  a  short  distance  from  the  town. 
Inexhaustible  beds  of  limestone  for  building  purposes,  and  easily  quarried,  are  with- 
in its  precincts.  A  species  of  freestone,  easily  dressed,  and  used  for  monuments 
and  architectural  purposes,  and  that  peculiar  species  of  lime,  used  for  water  cement, 
are  found  in  great  abundance  in  the  vicinity.  The  corporate  bounds  extend  two 
miles  along  the  river,  and  half  a  mile  back.  The  city  plat  is  laid  out  by  the  pro- 
prietors upon  a  liberal  scale.  There  are  five  squares  reserved  for  public  purposes ; 
and  a  large  reservation  is  made  on  the  river  for  a  public  landing  and  promenade. 

The  prices  of  lots  in  Alton  depend  upon  their  location.  Best  business  stands 
command  400  dollars  a  front  foot;  lots  more  retired,  for  private  dwellings,  from 
100  to  50,  and  25.  Stores  rent  from  1500  to  400;  dwelling-houses,  from  600  to 
200.  Some  of  the  stores  do  a  very  large  business,  their  transactions  amounting  to 
half  a  million  dollars  a  year:  others  sell  to  the  amount  of  200,000  dollars.  Clerks 
and  professional  men  only  are  not  wanted.  Of  all  these,  there  seems  to  be  no 
scarcity  in  any  part  of  the  west. 

Eight  steamboats  are  owned  here  in  whole  or  in  part,  and  some  of  them  are 
heavily  freighted  at  each  departure  with  the  exports  of  the  town  alone.  These 
exports  must  increase  as  the  back  country  continues  to  fill  up.  To  add  to  its  re- 
sources, two  rail-roads  will  shortly  be  made,  one  leading  to  Springfield,  70  miles, 
the  stock  of  which  has  been  subscribed ;  the  other  leading  to  Mount  Carmel,  on  the 
Wabash,  the  stock  of  which  has  been  taken  in  part  Land,  five  miles  back  of  the 


AND  PRINCIPAL  TOWNS  OF  ILLINOIS.  115 


town,  sells  at  from  10  to  40  dollars  per  acre,  according  to  the  improvements.  At  a 
greater  distance,  it  is  much  cheaper,  and  settling  rapidly.  The  productions  are 
wheat,  corn,  beef,  pork,  horses,  and  cattle.  Real  estate  has  risen  in  Alton  more 
than  1000  per  cent  within  two  years.  The  in  habitants -are  principally  from  New 
York  and  New  England ;  and  this  may  be  said  of  all  the  business  men,  with  two 
or  three  exceptions.  Next  to  these  in  number,  are  Virginians.  The  natural  sur-" 
face  of  much  of  the  town  site  of  Alton  is  broken  by  bluffs  and  ravines ;  but  the 
enterprise  of  its  citizens  and  the  corporation  is  fast  removing  these  inconveniences, 
by  grading  down  its  hills,  and  filling  up  its  ravines.  A  contract  of  60,000  dollars 
has  recently  been  entered  upon  to  construct  a  culvert  over  the  Little  Piasau  creek 
that  passes  through  the  centre  of  the  town,  over  which  will  soon  be  built  one  of  the 
most  capacious  and  pleasant  streets.  Since  its  settlement,  the  citizens  of  Alton 
have  enjoyed  as  good  health  as  those  of  any  river  town  in  the  west 

The  market  is  well  supplied  with  provisions  from  the  back  country ;  prices,  those 
of  St  Louis.  The  meats  and  vegetables  are  excellent,  and  cultivated  fruit  is  pret- 
ty abundant.  The  wild  fruits  are  plums,  crab-apples,  persimmons,  pawpaws,  hick- 
ory nuts,  and  pecons.  Wild  game  is  also  abundant,  viz :  deer,  pheasants,  prairie 
hens,  partridges,  with  the  various  kinds  of  water-fowl.  The  fish  are  cat,  perch, 
and  buffalo.  ,  i 

Such  is  a  hasty^iew  of  Alton  as  it  now  is.  Its  rapid  growth  is  an  evidence  of 
what  enterprize  can  effect  in  contending  against  Nature  herself.  Scarcely  a  town 
site  could  have  been  selected  on  the  Mississippi  originally  more  unpromising  in  its 
appearance;  and  yet  in  five  years,  probably,  it  will  attract  the  admiration  of  every 
beholder.  Already  the  "little  hills  have  fallen. on  every  side;"  the  valleys  have 
been  raised ;  and  within  the  time  mentioned,  the  city  will  present  to  the  spectator 
from  the  river  the  idea  of  a  vast  amphitheatre,  the  streets  ranging  above  each 
other  in  exact  uniformity,  while  from  each  mountain  top  in  the  distance  will  glitter 
the  abodes  of  wealth  and  independence.  The  foundations  of  its  prosperity  are  laid 
on  the  broad  basis  of  public  morals  and  Christian  benevolence.  Its  churches  are 
its  most  prominent  and  costly  edifices,  and  claim  the  tribute  of  praise  from  every 
beholder. 

'  These  temples  of  His  grace, 

How  beautiful  they  stand  ! 
The  honours  of  our  native  place, 

And  bulwarks  of  our  land.'  .      .          . 

No  people  cherish  the  sentiment  conveyed  in  these  lines  more  than  do  those  of 
Alton :  not  a  town  in  the  Union,  of  its  population,,  has  been  so  liberal  in  its  contri- 
butions to  every  measure  of  Christian  benevolence.  The  amount  subscribed  the 
present  year  probably  exceeds  10,000  dollars ;  one  item  in  which  is  the  subscrip- 
tion, by  two  gentlemen,  of  1000  dollars  each,  to  employ  a  temperance  lecturer  for 
this  portion  of  the  state.  In  addition  to  this,  one  of  the  same  gentlemen  has  given 
10,000  dollars  towards  the  erection  and  endowment  of  a  female  seminary  at  Mon- 
ticello,  five  miles  north  of  the  town,  to  the  superintendence  of  which  a  most  ac- 
complished lady  has  been  called  from  the  celebrated  institute  at  Ipswich,  Massa- 
chusetts. 

BEARDSTOWN,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Cass  county,  is  situated  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Illinois,  and  about  90  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river.  It  is  one  of 
the  chief  places  of  import  and  export  on  that  stream,  and  is  at  the  head  of  naviga- 
tion for  the  largest  class  of  New-Orleans  steamboats.  It  is  never  overflowed,  and 
the  landing  is  excellent 

The  town,  which  was  laid  off  in  1829,  and  then  contained  but  one  log  cabin,  has 
now  200  dwelling-houses,  frame  and  brick,  and  a  population  estimated  at  1000.  It 
has  thirteen  stores,  eight  groceries,  one  drug-shop,  two  tanneries,  two  forwarding 
houses,  two  steam  flouring-mills,  one  distillery,  one  brewery,  and  three  pork  esta£ 
lishments.  Of  master  mechanics  there  are  four  house-carpenters,  one  cabinet 
maker,  two  blacksmiths,  one  silversmith,  three  tailors,  one  baker,  one  turner,  one 
bricklayer,  stonemason  and  plasterer,  one  wagon  maker,  one  shoemaker,  three 
coopers,  and  one  barber.  It  has  one  church  only,  which  is  occupied  by  the  Metho- 


116  SKETCHES  OF  THE  CITIES 


dists,  though  there  is  sometimes  Presbyterian  worship  in  town.  There  is  an 
insurance  company  here.  A  fair  proportion  of  the  houses  are  two  stories  high,  and 
all,  with  three  exceptions,  are  frame,  mostly  painted  white ; — the  exceptions  are 
those  of  brick.  The  streets  are  80  and  60  feet  wide. 

The  exports  are  considerable,  and  consist  of  corn,  pork,  hides,  and  whiskey. 
Flour  was  exported  a  few  years  ago ;  but  is  now  as  high  here  as  at  New-Orleans, 
all  that  can  be  made  being  required  for  home  consumption.  The  chief  article  of 
export  is  pork,  of  which,  in  the  winter  of  1835-te,T2,0()0  head  were  put  up ;  in  the 
succeeding  winter  (the  last),  15,000.  Two  hundred  were  frequently  slaughtered 
in  a  day.  Corn,  about  seven  years  ago,  sold  generally  at  12k  cents  per  bushel ; 
the  price  now  is  30  cents. 

The  navigation  of  the  river  is  obstructed  by  ice,  from  one  to  two  and  a  half 
months  in  winter.  During  the  last  season,  the  suspension  continued  the  latter 
period.  The  last  boat  left,  Dec.  5th ;  the  first  arrived,  Feb.  21st.  The  departures 
and  arrivals  of  steamboats  in  the  year  1836  amounted  to  450.  The  prices  of 
freight  from  St.  Louis  and  Alton  vary  from  25  to  75  cents  per  100  Ibs.,  according 
to  the  state  of  navigation. 

Of  the  inhabitants,  the  much  greater  portion  are  males.  From  its  situation  on 
the  Illinois  river,  and  very  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  state,  families  collect  here 
in  the  winter  and  remain  till  the  spring,  when  they  scatter  throughout  the  country. 
As  a  winter  residence  it  is  very  agreeable,  the  soil  being  sandy,  and  of  course 
never  muddy;  but  in  the  summer  and  fall,  the  fever  and  ague  prevails  to  some 
extent  Since  1834,  however,  the  health  of  the  place  has  improved  considerably. 
The  inhabitants  are  from  all  the  states  of  the  union. 

Dwelling-houses,  containing  two  rooms  and  a  kitchen,  rent  for  one  hundred  dol- 
lars a  year.  The  cost  of  building  them  is  about  $500.  To  this  may  be  added 
the  cost  of  the  lot,  which  is  from  200  to  500  more.  Lots  fronting  the  river  sell  at 
about  30  dollars  per  front  foot;  on  Main  street,  from  18  to  20. 

The  view  from  the  river  is  imposing,  and  the  general  appearance  of  the  town 
exceedingly  attractive.  The  river  bank,  for  two  or  three  miles  in  length,  and  one 
in  width,  is  eight  pr  ten  feet  above  high-water  mark.  Beyond  this  is  a  narrow 
slough,  or  sloo,  which  is  about  to  be  drained  by  an  incorporated  company ;  two  and 
a  half  miles  further,  commences  a  fine,  rich,  cultivated  prairie,  which  extends  five 
miles  to  the  bluffs.  Some  farms  upon  it  have  been  sold  at  forty  dollars  per  acre, 
and  sixty  has  been  offered  for  others  and  refused.  The  price  of  improved  farms 
beyond  the  bluffs  is  from  ten  to  twenty  dollars  per  acre. 

Beardstown  is  the  terminating  point  of  the  contemplated  Beardstown  and  Spring- 
field rail-road,  and  the  Beardstown  and  Sangamon  canal. 

BELLEVILLE  is  a  flourishing  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of  St.  Clair  county. 
It  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  Richland  creek,  four  miles  east  of  the  bluffs  which 
bound  the  American  Bottom,  and  15  miles  east  of  St.  Louis,  71  miles  south-west 
from  Vandalia,  and  843  from  Washington.  It  is  surrounded  with  a  rich  and  exten- 
sive agricultural  country,  and  a  fine  body  of  timber.  It  is  in  the  centre  of  the  Tur- 
key Hill  Settlement,  which  is  one  of  the  most  flourishing  in  the  state. 

Belleville  is  a  place  of  considerable  business,  and  contains  a  number  of  stores  and 
groceries.  The  public  buildings  are,  a  handsome  court-house  of  brick,  finished  in 
a  superior  style,  a  brick  jail,  a  clerk's  office,  a  public  hall  which  belongs  to  a 
library  company,  and  a  framed  Methodist  house  of  worship.  It  has  two  select 
schools;  one  for  boarders,  half  a  mile  distant. 

There  are  two  large  merchant  steam  flouring-mills,  with  six  pairs  of  stones,  a 
brewery,  a  steam  distillery,  a  wool  carding  machine,  eight  carpenters,  one  cabinet 
maker,  five  blacksmith's  shops,  one  tinner's  shop,  two  silversmiths,  three  wagon 
makers,  one  turner  and  wheelwright,  two  shoemaker's  shops,  one  millwright,  two 
coopers,  two  saddlers,  two  tailors,  one  bakery,  one  high  school,  one  common  school, 
a  Presbyterian,  a  Baptist,  and  a  Methodist  congregation,  and  about  700  inhabitants, 
of  whom  about  one  hundred  are  Germans,  twenty  French,  and  the  residue  Ameri- 
cans. There  are  three  lawyers,  four  physicians,  four  resident  ministers  of  the  gos- 
pel, and  a  printing-office,  which  issues  the  "  St.  Clair  Gazette." 


AND  PRINCIPAL  TOWNS  OF  ILLINOIS.  117 


BLOOMINGTON,  the  seat  of  justice  for  M'Lean  county,  is  situated  on  the 
margin  of  a  fine  prairie,  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  and  fertile  district  The  town 
is  on  the  north  side  of  Blooming  Grove,  which  comprises  a  large  and  valuable  tract 
of  timber,  of  all  the  varieties  of  the  country  desirable  for  building,  consisting  chiefly 
of  lime,  maple,  ash,  oak,  and  black  and  white  walnut 

Bloomington  has  eight  or  ten  stores,  which  do  a  general  and  extensive  business, 
three  groceries,  two  taverns,  two  lawyers,  three  physicians,  an  academy  for  young 
gentlemen,  which  is  highly  commended,  and  an  institution  for  the  education  of 
young  ladies;  also  two  steam-mills,  a  Presbyterian  and  a  Methodist  meeting-house 
and  ministers,  a  number  of  various  mechanics,  and  an  intelligent  population  of 
about  700. 

This  town  is  a  point  on  the  great  central  rail-road,  &c. ;  and,  surrounded  as  it  is 
by  a  most  desirable  farming  country,  must  increase  in  importance  with  its  age. 
The  facilities  for  building  furnished  by  the  steam  saw-mills  situated  in  the  town, 
must  be  felt  in  the  rapid  growth  of  the  place.  It  can  scarcely  be  considered  a  com- 
pliment to  say  of  Bloomington,  that  it  is  among  the  most  beautiful  towns  in  Illinois. 

CAHOKIA  is  a  post-town  in  St  Clair  county,  three-fourths  of  a  mile  east  of  the' 
Mississippi  river,  and  five  miles  south  of  St.  Louis.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  settle- 
ments in  the  state.  The  Caoquias,  a  considerable  tribe  of  the  Illinois,  had,  for  a 
long  time  previous  to  the  discovery  of  the  Mississippi,  made  it  a  resting  place,  pro- 
bably on  account  of  the  game  with  which  the  river  and  the  ponds  in  the  vicinity 
abounded.  We  have  no  distinct  account  of  the  first  settlement  of  this  place  by  the 
French ;  but  it  is  probable  that  it  occurred  shortly  after  La  Salle  descended  the 
Mississippi  in  1633.  Pleased  as  some  of  his  followers  were  with  the  apparent  ease 
and  happiness  which  the  savages  enjoyed,  it  is  probable  that  they  chose  rather  to 
remain  among  them,  than  return  to  their  own  country.  Instances  of  this  kind  are 
frequently  mentioned  byTonti  and  Hennepin;  and  as  the  object  of  the  adventurous 
La  Salle  was  to  settle  and  civilize  the  country,  their  choice  seldom  met  with  oppo- 
sition. Father  Charlevoix,  who  visited  this  place  in  1721,  observes:  —  "I  was 
astonished  that  they  had  pitched  upon  so  inconvenient  a  situation  (being  so  far  from 
the  river),  especially  as  they  had  so  many  better  places  in  their  choice ;  but  I  was 
told  the  Mississippi  washed  the  foot  of  that  village  when  it  was  built;  that  in  three 
years  it  has  lost  half  a  league  of  its  breadth,  and  that  they  were  thinking  of  seek- 
ing out  another  habitation." — The  Indians  gradually  abandoned  Cahokia,  as  the 
French  settlers  increased  :  they  were,  however,  always  on  the  most  friendly  terms 
with  them. 

In  1766,  Cahokia  contained  forty  families ;  and  at  the  commencement  of  the 
revolution,  their  number  had  increased  to  about  fifty,  which  is  about  their  present 
number.  The  majority  of  the  houses  are  built  of  pickets,  one  story  high:  they 
generally  have  piazzas  on  every  side,  and,  being  whitewashed  on  the  outside,  have 
a  lively  appearance.  Here  is  also  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel,  in  which  service  is 
regularly  performed.  The  inhabitants  are  principally  French.  These  preserve 
all  their  ancient  manners  and  customs ;  with  few  exceptions,  they  are  poor,  indo- 
lent, and  illiterate.  The  utmost  extent  of  their  industry  is  to  raise  a  few  acres  of 
corn,  and  procure  a  few  loads  of  prairie  hay. 

By  an  act  of  Congress  passed  in  1788,  400  acres  of  land  adjoining  the  village 
was  granted  to  each  family ;  and  by  a  subsequent  act,  the  lands  used  by  the  inha- 
bitants of  Cahokia  and  Prairie  du  Pont  in  common,  were  appropriated  to  the  use 
of  said  inhabitants,  until  otherwise  directed  by  law. 

Both  the  Spanish  and  French  governments,  in  forming  settlements  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi, had  special  regard  to  convenience  of  social  intercourse,  and  protection 
from  the  Indians.  All  their  settlements  were  required  to  be  in  the  form  of  vil- 
lages or  towns ;  and  lots  of  a  convenient  size  for  a  door-yard,  garden,  and  stable- 
yard,  were  provided  for  each  family.  To  each  village  were  granted  two  tracts  of 
land  at  convenient  distances,  for  "  common  fields,"  and  "  commons." 

A  "  common  field"  is  a  tract  of  land,  of  several  hundred  acres,  enclosed  in  com- 
mon by  the  villagers,  each  person  furnishing  his  proportion  of  labour,  and  each 
family  possessing  individual  interest  in  a  portion  of  the  field,  marked  off,  and 


118  SKETCHES  OF  THE  CITIES 

bounded  from  the  rest.  Ordinances  were  made  to  regulate  the  repairs  of  fences, 
the  time  of  excluding  cattle  in  the  spring,  and  the  time  of  gathering  the  crop  and 
opening  the  held  for  the  range  of  cattle  in  the  fall.  Each  plat  of  ground  in  the 
common  field  was  owned  in  fee-simple  by  the  person  to  whom  granted,  subject  to 
sale  and  conveyance,  the  same  as  any  landed  property. 

A  "  common"  is  a  tract  of  land  granted  to  the  town  for  wood  and  pasturage,  in 
which  each  owner  of  a  village  lot  has  a  common,  but  not  an  individual  right.  In 
some  cases,  this  tract  embraced  several  thousand  acres.  The  "  common"  attached 
to  Cahokia,  extends  up  the  prairie  opposite  St.  Louis. 

This  place  formerly  enjoyed,  on  account  of  its  proximity  to  the  Indians,  an  exten- 
sive and  valuable  fur  trade;  but  at  present  it  has  few  or  no  advantages,  and  from  the 
number  of  decayed  and  deserted  houses  appears  to  be  on  the  decline.  The  situa- 
tion, although  somewhat  elevated,  is  damp  and  disagreeable :  in  high  water,  it  is 
frequently  inundated.  The  Americans  seldom  pass  a  season  without  suffering  from 
the  effects  of  the  miasma  arising  from  the  ponds  in  the  vicinity.  The  French, 
whether  on  account  of  their  being  inured  to  the  climate,  their  manner  of  living,  or 
from  their  possessing  more  hardy  constitutions,  are  little  affected  by  it,  but  gene- 
rally enjoy  good  health.  Coal  is  found  in  the  vicinity  of  this  place.  Its  discovery 
was  singular,  and  is  thus  noticed  in  Breckenridge's  View  of  Louisiana :  "  Some 
years  since,  a  tree,  taking  fire,  communicated  to  its  roots,  which  continued  burn- 
ing for  some  time.  Upon  examination,-  they  were  found  to  have  "passed  through  a 
bed  of  coal.  The  fire  continued  burning  until  it  was  completely  smothered  by  the 
falling  in  of  large  masses  of  incumbent  earth." 

CANTON  is  a  pleasant  and  thriving  town  in  the  north-east  part  of  Fulton 
county,  on  the  main  road  from  Lejvistown  to  Peoria,  15  miles  north-north-east  of 
the  former,  and  25  south-west  from  the  latter,  and  about  10  miles  from  the  nearest 
point  on  the  Illinois  river.  The  town  is  situated  on  the  borders  of  a  large  prairie, 
and  has  eight  or  ten  stores,  a  number  of  industrious  mechanics,  a.pd  a  due  propor- 
tion of  professional  men  ;  also?  a  large  academy,  recently  chartered  by  the  legis- 
lature as  a  college :  this  is  a  respectable  institution,  under  the  direction  of  compe- 
tent officers,  and  contains  70  or  80  students.  The  population  of  Canton  amounts 
to  from  500  to  600.  The  country  around  is'  high,  undulating,  fertile,  and  health- 
ful, with  a  proper  mixture  of  timber  and  prairie. 

This  town  will  be  intersected  by  two  rail-roads ;  one  of  which  will  extend  from 
Peoria  on  the  Illinois,  to  Warsaw  on  the  Mississippi  river,  opposite  the  mouth  of 
the  Des  Moines  river :  length,  upwards  of  100  miles.  The  other  will  commence 
at  Liverpool,  on  the  Illinois  river,  12  miles  from  Canton,  pass  through  the  latter, 
and  terminate  at  Knoxville,  the  county  seat  of  Knox  county.  Extent,  about  40 
miles.  The  completion  of  either  or  both  of  these  public  improvements  will  add 
greatly  to  the  prosperity  and  importance  of  Canton.  The  prairie  on  which  the 
town  is  located  commences  near  Spoon  river,  and  runs  northward,  dividing  the 
waters  that  fall  into  Spoon  river  on  the  west,  from  those  that  enter  the  Illinois  on 
the  east,  till  it  becomes  lost  in  the  interminable  prairies  on  Rock  river.  At  Can- 
ton it  is  from  two  to  three  miles  in  width,  dry,  undulating,  and  inexhaustibly  rich. 
Further  north,  it  becomes  inferior. 

CARROLLTON,  the  seat  of  justice  of  Greene  county,  was  laid  out  in  1821, 
and  is  situated  about  half-way  between  Alton  and  Jacksonville,  being  35  miles 
from  the  former  and  36  from  the  latter  place,  and  10  miles  east  from  the  Illinois 
river.  This  is  a  flourishing  and  pleasant  town,  lying  on  the  borders  of  String 
Prairie,  between  Macoupin  and  Apple  creeks,  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  level 
country,  with  a  rich  soil,  suitably  proportioned  into  timber  and  prairie,  and  densely 
populated  with  industrious  and  thriving  farmers.  Improved  farms  around  Carroll- 
ton  sell  for  ten,  fifteen,  and  twenty  dollars  per  acre.  The  houses  are  framed  or  of 
brick,  built  in  a  plain  but  convenient  style. 

Carrollton  has  a  population  of  about  1000  inhabitants,  with  seventeen  stores,  six 
groceries,  two  taverns,  seven  lawyers,  six  physicians,  four  ministers  of  the  gospel, 
two  male  and  two  female  schools,  two  steam  flouring-mills,  two  steam  saw-mills, 


AND  PRINCIPAL  TOWNS  OF  ILLINOIS.  119 


and  one  tannery.  The  court-house  is  neatly  built  of  brick,  forty-four  by  forty-six 
feet,  two  storiea,  with  a  handsome  spire.  The  religious  denominations  are  Bap- 
tists, Methodists,  Reformers,  and  Presbyterians.  The  first  three  have  houses  of 
worship,  and  the  latter  are  preparing  to  build. 

The  city  of  CHICAGO  is  the  largest  place  in  the  state  of  Illinois,  and  has 
grown  up  almost  entirely  within  the  last  seven  years.  It  is  the  seat  of  justice  for 
Cook  county,  and  is  situated  on  the  wqst  side  of  lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of 
Chicago  river,  and  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal.  Its 
growth,  even  for  western  cities,  has  been  unexampled.  In  Dr.  Beck's  Gazetteer, 
published  in  1823,  Chicago  is  described  as  a  village  of  10  or  12  houses,  and  60  or 
70  inhabitants.  In  1832,  it  contained  five  small  stores,  and  250  inhabitants ;  and 
now  (1837)  the  population  amounts  to  8000,  with  120  stores,  besides  a  number  of 
groceries ;  of  the  former,  twenty  sell  by  wholesale.  It  has  also  twelve  public 
houses,  three  newspapers,  near  fitly  lawyers,  and  upwards  of  thirty  physicians. 

Chicago  is  connected  by  means  of  the  numerous  steamboats,  ships,  brigs, 
schooners,  &c.,  that  navigate  the  great  fresh  water  seas  of  the  north,  with  all  the 
different  trading  ports  on  lakes -Michigan,  Huron,  and  Erie,  and  especially  with 
Buffalo,  to  and  from  which  city  various  lines  of  regular  packets  are  constantly  de- 
parting and  arriving.  Some  of  the  steamboats  are  of  .great  power  and  burthen. 
The  James  Madison,  built  last  winter  at  Erie,  Pennsylvania,  expressly  for  the  Chi- 
cago, Milwaukee,  and  Buffalo  trade,  on  her  first  trip  in  May  of  the  present  year, 
carried  over  4000  barrels  freight,  and  upwards  of  900  adult  .passengers,  besides  a 
large  number  of  children ;  and  the  receipts  for  the  voyage  were  estimated  at 
18,000  dollars.  It  is  intended  to  have  this  vessel  leave  Chicago  and  Buffalo  every 
18  days.  The  James  Madison  is  185  feet  in  length,  31  feet  beam,  and  45  feet  in 
width  on  deck  including  the  guards,  12  feet  depth  of  hold,  720  tons  burthen,  and 
propelled  by  a  high-pressure  horizontal  engine  of  180  horse  power. 

The  merchandke  imported  into  Chicago  in  the  year  1836  amounted  in  weight 
to  28,000  tons,  and  in  value  to  upwards  of  three  millions  of  dollars,  beside  a  vast 
number  of  immigrants  with  their  familieg,  provisions,  &c.  There  arrived  in  the 
same  year  456  vessels,  including  49  .steamboats,  10  ships  and  barques ;  the  rest, 
brigs,  schooners,  and  sloops.  During  the  last  winter,  127  teams,  loaded  with  mer- 
chandize for  the  country,  were  counted  in  the  street  in  one  day. 

The  Presbyterians,  Methodists,  Baptists,  Episcopalians,  and  Roman  Catholics, 
each  have  houses  of  worship.  There  are  likewise  one  or  more  insurance  compa- 
nies, fire  companies,  water-works  for  the.  supply  of  water  from  the  lake,  several 
good  schools,  and  a  respectable  academy.  A  large  ship-yard  has  been  commenced 
near  the  city.  An  extensive  brewery,  a  stearn  saw  and  grist  mill,  and  a  large  fur- 
nace, are  all  in  successful  operation.  The  building  of  an  Academy  of  Fine  Arts 
is  likewise  contemplated,  and  measures  are  about  being  taken  to  obtain  for  it  a 
collection  of  paintings.  The  care  which  the  original  surveyors  took  to  give  the 
prairie  winds  a  full  sweep  through  this  city,  has  distinguished  it  as  the  most  health- 
ful place  in  the  western  country,  and  has  made  it  the  resort  of  a  large  number  of 
people  during  the  sickly  season.  The  natural  advantages  of  the  place,  and  the 
enterprize  and  capital  that  will  concentrate  here,  with  the  favourable  prospects  for 
health,  must  soon  make  this  the  emporium  of  trade  and  business  for  all  the  northern 
country.  The  completion  of  the  canal  will  give  Chicago  a  water  communication 
with  all  the  principal  cities  in  the  country  :  the  high  prices  given  for  produce,  and 
the  ready  market,  will  make  it  the  grand  resort  of  the  western  farmers. 

Chicago  is  built  on  level  ground,  but  sufficiently  elevated  above  the  highest  floods 
to  prevent  overflow ;  and  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  for  a  mile  in  width,  along  the 
shore  of  the  lake,  the  land  is  a  sand-bank :  but  back  of  the  city,  towards  the  Des 
Plaines  river,  is  a  rich  and  fertile  prairie,  and  for  the  first  three  or  four  miles  dry 
and  elevated.  The  following  description  of  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  this 
place  is  from  the  pen  of  Mr.  Schoolcraft : 

"  The  country  around  Chicago  is  the  most  fertile  and  beautiful  that  can  be  ima- 
gined. It  consists  of  an  intermixture  of  woods  and  prairies,  diversified  with  gen- 
tle slopes,  sometimes  attaining  the  elevation  of  hills,  and  irrigated  with  a  number 


120 


SKETCHES  OF  THE  CITIES 


of  clear  streams  and  rivers,  which  throw  their  waters  partly  into  lake  Michigan, 
and  partly  into  the  Mississippi  river. — As  a  farming  country,  it  unites  the  fertile 
soil  of  the  finest  lowland  prairies,  with  an  elevation  which  exempts  it  from  the  in- 
fluence of  stagnant  waters,  and  a  summer  climate  of  delightful  serenity ;  while  its 
natural  meadows  present  all  the  advantages  for  raising  stock,  of  the  most  favoured 
part  of  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi.  It  is  already  the  seat  of  several  flourishing 
plantations,  and  only  requires  the  extinguishment  of  the  Indian  title  to  the  lands, 
to  become  one  of  the  most  attractive  fields  for  the  emigrant.  To  the  ordinary  ad- 
vantages of  an  agricultural  market-town,  it  must  hereafter  add  that  of  a  depot  for 
the  inland  commerce  between  the  northern  and  southern  sections  of  the  union,  and 
a  great  thoroughfare  for  strangers,  merchants,  and  travellers." 

Along  the  north  branch  of  the  Chicago,  and  the  lake  shore,  are  extensive  bodies 
of  fine  timber.  Large  quantities  of  white  pine  exist  in  the  regions  towards  Green 
Bay,  and  about  Grand  river  in  Michigan,  from  which  lumber  in  any  quantities  is 
obtained,  and  conveyed  by  shipping  to  Chicago.  Yellow  poplar  boards  and  plank 
are  brought  across  the  lake  from  the  St  Joseph's  river.  The  mail  in  post-coaches 
from  Detroit,  arrives  here  tri-weekly,  and  departs  for  Galena,  for  Springfield,  Alton, 
and  St  Louis,  and  for  Danville  and  Vincennes. 

The  United  States  has  a  strip  of  elevated  ground  between  the  town  and  lake, 
about  half  a  mile  in  width,  on  which  Fort  Dearborn  and  the  light-house  are  situated, 
but  which  is  now  claimed  as  a  pre-emption  right,  and  is  now  in  a  course  of  judicial 
investigation. 

Fort  Dearborn  was  for  a  considerable  period  occupied  as  a  military  station  by  the 
United  Slates,  and  garrisoned  generally  by  about  three  companies  of  regular  troops ; 
but  the  expulsion  of  the  Indians,  and  the  rapid  increase  of  settlements  at  all  parts 
of  this  region,  have  rendered  its  further  occupancy  as  a  military  post  unnecessary : 
in  consequence,  the  troops  have  been  recently  withdrawn.  It  consists  of  a  square 
stockade,  inclosing  barracks,  quarters  for  the  officers,  a  magazine,  provision  store, 
&c.,  and  is  defended  by  bastions  at  the  northern  and  south-east  angles. 

During  the  last  war  with  Great  Britain,  this  place  was  the  scene  of  a  most  foul 
and  bloody  tragedy.  In  1812,  in  consequence  of  the  disgraceful  surrender  of  gene- 
ral Hull  at  Detroit,  it  was  determined  to  abandon  the  fort.  A  number  of  the 
troops,  shortly  after  leaving  it,  were  inhumanly  murdered  by  the  savages,  who  lay 
in  ambush  on  the  margin  of  the  lake. 

The  following  account  of  this  affair  is  extracted  from  M'Afee's  History  of  the 
late  war  in  the  western  country.  "  On  the  morning  of  the  15th  (Aug.)  at  sunrise, 
the  troops,  consisting  of  about  70  men,  with  some  women  and  children,  marched 
from  the  fort  with  pack-horses  in  the  centre,  and  captain  Wells  with  his  Indians 
in  the  rear.  They  had  proceeded  about  a  mile  from  the  fort,  when  the  front  guard 
was  fired  on  by  the  savages,  who  were  posted  behind  a  sand-bank  on  the  margin 
of  the  lake,  and  in  a  skirt  of  woods  which  the  party  were  approaching ;  the  rest 
of  the  country  around  them  being  an  open  prairie.  At  the  same  time,  they  saw  a 
body  of  Indians  passing  to  their  rear,  to  cut  off  their  retreat  to  the  fort.  The  firing 
now  became  general,  and  the  troops,  seeing  nothing  but  death  and  massacre  before 
them,  formed  in  line  of  battle,  and  returned  the  fire  of  the  enemy  with  much 
bravery  and  success,  as  they  slowly  retreated  in  the  prairie.  The  Indians  made 
several  desperate  efforts  to  rush  up  and  tomahawk  them ;  but  every  charge  was 
repulsed  by  the  firmness  of  the  troops,  who  fought  with  desperation,  determined  to 
sell  their  lives  as  dear  as  possible.  Captain  Wells  being  killed,  his  Indians  retired 
from  the  party  and  joined  the  others.  Several  women  and  children  were  also 
killed;  and  our  ranks  were  at  last  so  reduced,  as  scarcely  to  exceed  twenty  effec- 
tive men :  yet  they  continued  resolute,  and  stuck  together,  resolved  to  fight  while 
one  remained  able  to  fire.  But  the  Indians  now  withdrew  some  distance,  and  sent 
a  small  French  boy  to  demand  a  surrender.  The  boy  was  captain  Heald's  inter- 
preter, who  had  run  off  to  the  Indians  at  the  commencement  of  the  action.  He 
advanced  cautiously ;  and  Mr.  Griffith,  who  was  afterwards  a  lieutenant  in  a  com- 
pany of  spies  in  colonel  Johnson's  regiment  from  Kentucky,  advanced  to  meet  him, 
intending  to  kill  him  for  his  perfidy.  But  the  boy  declared,  that  it  was  the  only 
way  he  had  to  save  his  life,  and  appeared  sorry  that  he  had  been  obliged  to  act  in 


AND  PRINCIPAL  TOWNS  OF  ILLINOIS. 


121 


that  manner.  He  then  made  known  his  business ;  the  Indians  proposed  to  spare 
the  lives  of  our  men,  provided  they  would  surrender.  The  proposal  being  made 
known  to  the  surviving  soldiers,  they  unanimously  determined  to  reject  if.  The 
boy  returned  with  this  answer  to  the  Indians ;  but  in  a  short  time  he  came  back, 
and  entreated  Mr.  Griffith  to  use  his  influence  with  captain  Heald,  to  make  him 
surrender,  as  the  Indians  were  very  numerous.  The  captain,  his  lady,  and  Mr. 
Griffith,  were  all  wounded.  He  at  last  consented  to  surrender ;  and  the  troops 
having  laid  down  their  arms,  the  Indians  advanced  to  receive  them ;  and  notwith- 
standing their  promises,  they  now  perfidiously  tomahawked  three  or  four  of  the  men. 
One  Indian,  with  the  fury  of  a  demon  in  his  countenance,  advanced  to  Mrs.  Heald, 
with  his  tomahawk  drawn.  She  had  been  accustomed  to  danger ;  and  knowing  the 
temper  of  the  Indians,  with  great  presence  of  mind,  she  looked  him  in  the  face, 
and  smiling  said,  "  Surely  you  would  not  kill  a  squaw."  His  arm  tell  nerveless ; 
the  conciliating  smile  of  an  innocent  female,  appealing  to  the  magnanimity  of  a 
warrior,  reached  the  heart  of  the  savage,  and  subdued  the  barbarity  of  his  soul. 
He  immediately  took  the  lady  under  his  protection.  She  was  the  daughter  of 
general  Samuel  Wells  of  Kentucky.  The  head  of  captain  Wells  was  cut  off,  and 
his  heart  was  cut  out  and  eaten  by  the  savages. 

"  The  Indians  having  divided  their  prisoners,  as  usual  in  such  cases,  it  was  the 
fate  of  captain  Heald,  his  lady,  and  Mr.  Griffith,  to  be  taken  by  the  Ottawas  on 
the  lake  beyond  the  mouth  of  the  river  St.  Joseph.  Their  wounds  being  severe, 
they  looked  upon  destruction  as  inevitable;  but  Heaven  often  smiles  when  we  least 
expect  it.  Griffith  had  observed  a  canoe,  which  was  large  enough  to  carry  them ; 
and  they  contrived  to  escape  in  it  by  night.  In  this  frail  bark  they  traversed  the 
lake  200  miles  to  Mackinaw,  where  the  British  commander  afforded  them  the 
means  of  returning  to  the  United  States." 

After  the  war,  this  fort  was  repaired,  and  again  taken  possession  of  by  the  Ameri- 
can troops ;  since  which  time,  it  has  always  been,  until  lately,  occupied  by  a  gar- 
rison. 

DECATUR,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Macon  county,  is  situated  on  the  west  side 
of  the  North  Fork  of  Sangamdn  river,  on  the  borders  of  an  extensive  prairie,  and 
on  a  dry,  elevated,  and  healthful  site.  This  place  contains  at  present  a  population 
of  about  300  or  400,  and  promises  eventually  to  be  one  of  the  first  inland  towns 
in  the  state.  Its  future  growth  and  greatness  are  predicated  on  the  surest  grounds. 
It  is  eo  far  from  any  river  towns,  that  it  can  never  be  overshadowed  by  their  pros- 
perity ;  while  the  internal  improvements  now  going  into  effect,  must  place  it  in  the 
first  rank  as  an  interior  trading  town. 

The  rail-road  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Wabash,  which,  by  the  act  of  the  last 
session,  is  to  take  precedence  of  the  other  rail-roads  in  the  time  of  its  construction, 
is  to  pass  through  Decatur ;  this  place  is  also  a  point  in  the  great  central  rail  road, 
which  is  to  connect  the  Ohio  with  the  northern  part  of  the  state.  Decatur,  being 
thus  at  the  intersection  of  these  two  rail-roads ;  being  also  far  in  the  interior,  and 
in  the  midst  of  a  section  of  country  fertile  and  rapidly  increasing  in  population, 
enjoys  every  advantage  for  a  first-rate  trading  town.  It  is  probable  that  no  town 
in  the  state  will  be  more,  and  hardly  any  one  as  much  benefited  by  the  present 
system  of  internal  improvements,  as  Decatur.  The  place  too  is  decidedly  healthy, 
it  is  in  a  rich  and  important  county,  and  surrounded  by  extensive  settlements. 

The  town  contains  several  stores,  and  has  a  number  of  mechanics'  and  profes- 
sional men. 

EDWARDSVILLE,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Madison  county,  is  on  the  south  bank 
of  Cahokia  creek,  and  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  high  ground  which  bounds  the 
American  Bottom.  It  is  in  the  centre  of  a  fertile  and  healthful  country,  well  wa- 
tered and  timbered,  and  gently  undulating ;  presenting  at  once  to  the  agriculturist 
a  most  desirable  place  for  residence.  The  vicinity  of  the  town  is  settled  with 
thrifty  and  enterprizing  farmers. 

Edwardsville  is  composed  of  the  old  town,  laid  out  in  1815;  and  the  new  town, 
which  was  laid  out  about  five  years  afterwards.  It  is  situated  21  miles  north-east 

Q.  11    ~~ 


122  SKETCHES  OF  THE  CITIES 


from  St.  Louis,  on  the  Springfield  road,  12  miles  south-east  from  Alton,  55  from 
Vandalia,  and  836  from  Washington  city.  It  has  a  court-house  and  jail  of  brick, 
a  land-office  for  the  Edwardsville  district,  seven  stores,  two  taverns,  two  physicians, 
four  lawyers,  a  castor-oil  factory,  various  mechanics,  and  about  400  inhabitants. 
Here  is  also  an  academy  and  a  commodious  building.  The  Baptists  and  Metho- 
dists have  each  a  house  of  worship.  The  inhabitants  are  generally  industrious,  in- 
telligent, moral,  and  a  large  proportion  professors  of  religion. 

GALENA  is  the  principal  town  in  the  lead-mine  district  in  the  north-west  part 
of  the  state,  and  the  county  seat  of  Jo  Daviess  county.  It  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  Fever  river,  a  few  miles  above  its  mouth,  and  has  a  population  of  about  1200 
inhabitants,  with  18  or  20  stores,  a  dozen  groceries,  4  taverns  and  hotels,  a  printing- 
office  that  publishes  a  weekly  paper,  called  the  Gazette,  four  lawyers,  three  phy- 
sicians, two  schools,  two  ministers  of  the  gospel,  a  pipe  and  sheet  lead  manufac- 
tory, a  flour  and  saw-mill,  a  gunsmith,  silversmith,  saddler,  tailor,  several  carpen- 
ters, blacksmiths,  brick  and  stone  masons,  &c. 

This  place  was  first  settled  in  1826,  and  was  originated  by  the  extensive  and 
rich  lead-mines  in  its  vicinity.  It  was  an  outpost  of  between  300  and  400  miles  ad- 
vance into  the  wilderness  north  of  St  Louis.  The  amount  of  byguras  transacted 
here  is  very  considerable,  as  it  is  the  place  of  import  and  e?MK^tajj[  extensive 
and  rich  region  of  country.  There  is  constant  intercourse  l^Rv^^y*  means  of 
steamboats  with  St.  Louis,  New-Orleans,  Louisville,  Cincinnati,  ftc. 

Fever  river,  on  which  Galena  is  placed,  is  navigable  at  a«  nines  foV  steamboats 
of  any  size ;  and  in  high  water  two  miles  above,  for  this  distance  it  is  deep  and 
sluggish.  Above  this  point  it  runs  with  a  swift  current  over  a  rocky  and  gravelly 
bottom,  is  full  of  fine  fish,  and,  like  all  the  streams  in  this  region,  it  is  te/1  with 
perennial  springs.  This  river  rises  near  the  Platte  mounds,  in  Wiscorifein  Terri- 
tory, in  two  branches,  the  East  and  West  forks,  runs  a  south-westerly  course  past 
Galena,  and  enters  the  Mississippi  seven  miles  south  of  that  place. 

In  the  East  Fork  settlement,  which  is  twelve  miles  east  from  Galena,  the  tim- 
ber is  scarce,  but  there  is  much,  excellent  prairie,  wid  the  lead-mines  are  the  best 
in  Illinois.  Population  of  farmers  and  miners,  abopt  fifty  families. 

On  the  West  Fork  or  main  <creek  is  a  considerable  settlement,  and  some  good 
farms.  The  alluvion  on  the  stream  ,j%fine,  and  there  is  a  tolerable  supply  of  tim- 
ber. This  settlement  is  eight  miles  in*a  direct  course,  and  twelve  miles  the  trav- 
elled way  north-east  from  Galena. 

Fever  river  has  been  incorrectly  called  Bean  river  (Riviere  au  Feve,  Fr.)  Its 
proper  name  has  been  derived  from  two  traditionary  accounts.  The  first  is,  that 
in  early  times  the  Indians  were  carried  off  by  a  mortal  sickness,  supposed  to  be  the 
small-pox.  This  circumstance  gave  rise  to  the  name  of  another  creek  now  called 
Small  Pox.  The  other  tradition,  and  the  correct  one,  is,  that  it  derived  its  name 
from  a  French  trader  by  the  name  of  Le  Fevre,  who  settled  near  its  mouth. 

GRAFTON,  in  the  southern  part  of  Greene  county,  is  a  thriving  town,  con- 
taining about  500  inhabitants.  It  is  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Mississippi  river, 
two  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois,  24  miles  south  of  Carrollton,  15  miles 
north-west  from  Alton,  and  ten  miles  north  from  St.  Charles  in  Missouri.  The 
town  is  situated  on  an  elevated  strip  of  land  under  the  bluffs,  and  has  a  good 
steamboat  landing.  Several  islands  in  the  Mississippi  make  this  point  the  real 
junction  of  the  Illinois  and  Mississippi  rivers,  as  to  navigation. 

The  country  a  few  miles  back  is  rich,  and  becoming  densely  populated.  This 
place  must  soon  become  a  thoroughfare  for  travelling  from  the  Sangamon  country 
across  the  Mississippi  to  St.  Charles,  and  the  regions  along  the  Missouri  river.  It 
has  a  post-office,  several  stores  and  ware-houses,  and  promises  to  be  a  place  of  con- 
siderable business.  A  charter  for  a  rail-road  from  this  place  through  Carrollton  to 
Springfield  has  been  obtained,  the  company  organized,  and  a  portion  of  the  stock 
taken.  A  chartered  company  is  about  to  erect  a  splendid  hotel. 

JACKSONVILLE,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Morgan  county,  is  situated  about  22 


AND  PRINCIPAL  TOWNS  OF  ILLINOIS.  123 

miles  east  of  the  Illinois  river,  and  one  and  a  half  miles  south  of  Mauvaiseterre 
creek.  This  town  was  laid  off  in  1825;  but  it  is  only  within  the  last  three  or  four 
years,  that  its  present  advancement  can  be  dated.  Its  site  is  a  broad  elevated  knoll, 
in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  prairie,  and,  from  whatever  point  it  is  approached,  few  i 
places  present  a  more  delightful  prospect  The  neighbouring  prairie  is  undulating, 
and  is  accounted  uncommonly  rich  and  fertile  even  in  this  land  of  fertility.  It  is 
mostly  under  high  cultivation,  and  in  its  northern  and  western  edge  is  environed 
by  pleasant  groves. 

Jacksonville  contains  a  population  of  about  2500,  with  16  stores,  several  groce- 
ries and  druggists'  stores,  two  hotels,  and  a  considerable  number  of  mechanics  of 
various  trades ;  also  eleven  lawyers  and  ten  physicians.  It  has  one  steam  flour- 
mill,  one  saw-mill  and  two  oil-mills,  a  manufactory  for  cotton-yarn,  two  carding  fac- 
tories, a  tannery,  and  three  brick-yards. 

The  public  square  in  the  centre  of  the  town  is  of  noble  dimensions,  occupied  by 
a  handsome  court-house  and  market,  both  of  brick ;  and  its  sides  filled  up  with 
dwelling-houses,  stores,  offices,  a  church,  bank,  and  hotel.  From  this  point  radiate 
streets  and  avenues  in  all  directions.  The  public  buildings,  in  addition  to  the 
court-house,  are  a  Presbyterian,  an  Episcopalian,  a  Methodist,  and  a  Congregation- 
alist  church,  a  lyceum,  a  mechanics'  association,  a  male  and  female  academy,  and 
a  county  jail. 

There  are  two  printing-offices  that  publish  weekly  papers,  the  Patribt,  and  the 
News,  and  also  a,  book 'and  job  printing-office  with  a  book-bindery  attached,  and  a 
monthly  religious  periodical. 

Illinois  college  is  situated  on  an  eminence  one  mile  West  of  the  town,  formerly 
known  as  Wilson's  Grove.  The  site  is  delightful :  in  the  rear  lies  a  dense  clump 
of  oaks-,  and  in  front  is  spread  out  the  village  with  a  boundless  extent  of  prairie 
beyond,  povered  for  miles  with  cultivation.  Away  to  $he  south,  the  beautiful  wild 
flowers  jlash  as  gaily  in  the  sunlight,  aafl  wave  as  gracefully  when  swept  by  the 
breeze,  as  centuries  ago,  when  BO  eye  of  civilized  ttM>  looked  upon  its  loveliness. 
Connected  with  the  college  buildings,  are  extensWT grounds;  and  students,  at 
their  option,  may  devote  a  portion  of  each  day  to  S^nual  labour  in  the  work-shop 


>rtion 

or  on  the  farm.     Some  individ&ls  have,  it  is  said,  IK  this  manner  defrayed  all  the 
expenses  of  their  educatjji.    "^ 

JULIET,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Will  county',  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  the 
River  Des  Plaines,  at  the  point  where  Aat  stream  is  crossed  by  the  Illinois  and 
Michigan  canal,  about  16  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Kankakee  river,  and 
40  miles  south-west  from  Chicago.  This  town  has  been  laid  off  only  a  few  years, 
and  has  already  a  population  of  about  600  persons.  Its  position  on  the  canal  will 
add  much  to  its  commercial  importance,  and  increase  its  business  facilities  ;  while 
its  great  command  of  water-power  will  render  it  a  suitable  place  for  carrying  on 
various  branches  of  manufacture.  It  has  fourteen  stores,  two  groceries,  one  drug- 
store, three  taverns,  a  saw  and  grist-mill,  various  mechanics,  six  lawyers,  five  phy- 
sicians, a  Methodist  and  an  Episcopalian  society. 

KASKASKIA  is  the  seat  of  justice  of  Randolph  county,  and  was  formerly  the 
capital  of  the  Territory  of  Illinois.  It  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  of 
the  same  name,  seven  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi,  from  which  it 
is  about  three  miles  east.  It  is  near  the,1  southern  extremity  of  the  American  Bot- 
tom. The  first  settlement  made  here  was  by  the  French  of  Canada,  shortly  after 
the  visit  of  I&  Salle  in  168-3 ;  and  so  long  as  the  French  continued  in  possession 
of  the  Illinois  country,  Kaskaskia  was  its  capital,  and  was  flourishing  and  populous. 
When  Charlevoix  visited  it  in  1721,  it  contained  a  Jesuit  college,  the  ruins  of 
which  only  remain.  In  1763,  this  place,  as  well  as  the  country  east  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, was  ceded  by  France  to  Great  Britain.  In  1766,  it  contained  about  100 
families,  which  number  it  retained  until  the  revolutionary  war.  In  1778,  the  fort 
situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  Kaskaskia  river  was  taken  by  Col.,  afterwards  Gen., 
George  Rogers  Clarke.  After  that  time,  and  until  within  a  few  years,  this  town 
continued  gradually  to  decline ;  owing  chiefly  to  the  ordinance  of  1787,  which  pro- 


124  SKETCHES  OF  THE  CITIES 


hibited  slavery  and  involuntary  servitude  in  what  was  then  denominated  the  North- 
Western  Territory.  The  slave-holders  were  disposed  to  preserve  this  species  of 
property,  and  in  order  to  do  it  effectually,  they  abandoned  their  ancient  habitations, 
and  joined  their  friends  in  the  new  dominions  of  Spain,  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Mississippi. 

At  present  this  place  contains  about  60  families,  a  majority  of  which  are  de- 
scended from  the  French.  The  houses  are  scattered  over  an  extensive  plain ;  and 
the  greatest  proportion  are  built  of  wood,  in  the  French  style.  Many  of  them  have 
fine  gardens  in  front  and  rear,  which  give  them  a  rural  appearance.  Here  is  a 
Catholic  church,  a  court-house  and  jail,  and  a  land-office  for  the  sale  of  public  lands 
in  this  district;  also  a  nunnery  and  a  female  boarding-school. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  river,  directly  opposite  the  town,  the  bluffs  approach  the 
river,  and  continue  parallel  with  it  to  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi,  when  they 
follow  the  coftrse  of  that  stream  in  a  southerly  direction,  and  terminate  thirty-five 
miles  above  the  mouth  o/  the  Ohio,  forming  the  southern  boundary  of  the  highlands 
on  the  Mississippi.  From  the  town  to  the  junction  of  the  Kaskaskia  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi, there  is  a  body  of  land,  called  "  the  Point,"  which  is  low,  and  subject  to 
inundation,  but  well  timbered.  It  abounds  in  wild  horses,  many  of  which  are 
annually  caught. 

By  an  act  of  Congress,  passed  in  1788,  t*  larye  tract  of  land  was  granted  to  the 
different  French  villages  on  Ifee  east  side  of  the  Mississippi,  and  a  separate  tract 
to  the  inhabitants  o,f  Kaskaskia,  tb  be  used  as  a  common.  It  is  situated  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and  contains  twenty  thousand  a'cres»  It  is  under  the  direction  of  the 
trustees  of  the  town,  in  con tbrmity' with  the  special  acts  of  the  legislature. 

LEBANON  is  in  St.  Clair  county,  and  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  west  bank 
of  Little  Silver  creek,  abot^-20  miles  east  from  St.  Louis,  12  miles  north-east  from 
Belleville,  59  from  Vandalia,  and  about  &M.  from  ^Vashington  City.  The  town  is 
located  on  the  edge  of  a  &^tll  prairie.  T,fee,gfreets  cross  each  other  at  right 
angles,  and  are  from  GO  t^WJeet  wide.  It'  is  pn  etevated  ground,  surrounded 
with  a  beautiful,  populous,  andwell  cultivated  disUdct  of  country,  and  on  the  Vin- 
cennes  and  St.  Louis  stage-rocffl  {Br 

Lebanon  has  a  steam-milLfiw  manufacturin^^nnn  >$m  ox-mill,  for  flouring,  on 
an  inclined  plane;  a  post-omcV,  IJfcMsublic  houses,  several  stores,  one  grocery, 
'  three  physicians,  mechanics'  shopplf  various  kinds,  and  about  sixty  families. 
M'Kendreean  College  is  located  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  town.  It  is  under 
the  supervision  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  and  is  a  commodious  frame 
building,  with  about  fifty  students  in  the  preparatory  department,  under  the  charge 
of  two  competent  instructors.  The  Methodist  society  embraces  the  largest  propor- 
tion of  the  religious  community  about  Lebanon.  There  is  a  large  society  of  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  and  a  small  society  of  the  Methodist  Protestant 
Church. 

MOUNT  CARMEL  was  laid  off  in  1818,  by  Rev.  Thomas  S.  Hinde,  of  Ohio, 
with  the  view  of  establishing  a  moral,  temperate,  and  industrious  community.  It 
is  the  seat  of  justice  for  VVabash  county,  and  is  situated  on  high  ground  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Wabash  river,  and  just  below  the  junction  of  that  stream  with  the 
White  river  of  Indiana,  about  80  miles  from  its  mouth  by  water,  109  south-east 
from  Vandalia,  and  716  from  Washington  Cirity.  This  place  is  immediately  below 
the  Grand  Rapids  of  the  Wabash  river,  the  "prospective  improvement  of  which  is 
thought  to  give  it  peculiar  importance  as  a  place  of  business.  The  country  around 
is  high,  undulating,  healthy,  and  contains  an  extensive  settlement  of  industrious 
farmers.  The  court-house  and  jail  are  brick.  The  Methodist  society,  which  is 
large,  has  a  house  of  worship. 

In  Mount  Carmel  are  ten  stores,  two  groceries,  two  taverns,  and  a  third  in  course 
of  preparation,  one  stationed  preacher  and  four  local  preachers  of  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church,  one  German  Reformed  preacher,  two  physicians,  one  steam- 
doctor,  three  lawyers,  and  from  1000  to  1200  population.  The  religious  denomina- 
tions are,  Methodists  (Episcopal),  Evangelical  Lutherans,  associated  with  the 


AND  PRINCIPAL  TOW^TS  OF  ILLINOIS.  125 


German  Reformed,  Presbyterians,  some  Baptists,  and  Episcopalians — three  steam- 
mills,  one  ox  tread-mill,  mechanics  and  trades  of  various  descriptions,  a  foundry 
for  castings  for  machinery,  &c.  The  commerce  of  this  place  is  considerable,  and 
from  the  31st  of  March  to  the  12th  of  April,  1837,  26  steam-boats  arrived  and  de- 
parted. 

NAPLES,  the  most  commercial  town  in  Morgan  county,  is  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  Illinois  river,  two  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Mauvaiseterre  creek,  and  22 
miles  west  from  Jacksonville.  It  is  laid  off  on  a  level  prairie  at  the  foot  6f  a  sand 
ridge,  and  above  ordinary  high  water.  It  is  in  a  most  delightful  situation,  w'ith  good 
landings  for  steamboats.  There  are  one  or  two  rirst-rate  hotels  in  the  town,  and 
some  large  wholesale  stores.  Several  ^aw  and  grist  steam-mills,  together  with  its 
contiguity  to  the  surrounding  timber,  afford  ample  facilities  for  building;  its  free 
ferry  across  the  river ;  its  daily  line  of  stages  to  Jacksonville ;  the  many  addi- 
tional buildings  to  be  erected  this  season ;  and  the  acknowledged  enterprize  of  its 
inhabitants,  all  go  to  make  up  a  flourishing  town,  and  hold  out  solid  inducements 
to  capitalists. 

The  commerce  of  Naples  is  considerable.  In  1835,  the  arrivals  and  'departures 
of  steamboats  were  302.  The  exports  in  produce,  during  the  same  year,  amounted 
to  nearly  one  million  of  dollars.  A«  r,ail-road  to  Jacksonville  is  now  in  progress  of 
construction,  and  will  soon  be  completed,  as  arrangements  were  made  to  lay  about 
half  a  mile  of  rails  every  week  during  the  present  season.  Naples  contains  about 
600  inhabitants. 

OTTAWA,  the  seat  of  justice  for  La  Salle  county*,  was  laid  off  by  the  canal 
commissioners,  in  1830,  at  the  Junction  of  Fox  river  w^i  the  Illinois,  and  is  thought 
by  many  to  be  an  important  loo^tien^for^busiqess.  IWWaid  off  on  both  sides  of  the 
Illinois  river,  about  80  miles  sqyth-wesvfrotn  Chicajy,  175  nearly  due  north  from 
Vandalia,  and  219  miles  from^l^* mouth  of  the  IUud^  river.  The  country  around 
is  pleasant,  undulating,  and  well  adapted  to  farmn^  fThe  timber  is  in  small  quan- 
tities, chiefly  in  groves ;  the.'Aairie  land  generaiydry  and  rich  soil. 

At  the  town  site,  the  wa(*rg|§he  Illinois  *is  deep,  and  the  landing  convenient. 
Steamboats  reach  this  placejifripk  spring,  ajjdjxt'^ther  seasons  when  the  water  is 


high. 

Below,  for  the  distance  of  eight  or  ninjJSruTes;  are  rapids  and  shoals,  formed  by 
barriers  of  sand  and  limestone  rock.  Ottawa  has  eight  or  ten  stores,  two  taverns, 
three  physicians,  five  lawyers,  and  75  or  80  families.  Large  additions  have  been 
made  to  the  town  plat,  by  laying  off  additional  lots  on  lands  adjoining.  It  is 
expected  a  lateral  canal  from  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal  will  pass  through  -the 
town  to  the  Illinois  river.  This,  by  means  of  a  feeder  to  the  rapids  of  Fox  river, 
will  open  a  navigation  into  Kane  county.?  Fox  river  is  susceptible  of  improvement 
by  slack-water  at  a  small  expense,  intf)  the  Wisconsin  Territory,  and  from  thence 
by  a  short  canal  of  fifteen  miles  may  become  connected  with  Milwaukee.  Hence 
Ottawa  may  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  important  sites  for  commercial  busi- 
ness in  the  state.  Near  it  dams  are  already  projected  across  the  Illinois  river,  and 
an  immense  water-power  thus  created,  The  Ottawa  Republican,  a  weekly  paper, 
is  published  here. 

4 

PEKIN  is  in  Tazewell  county,  ahd-on  the  east  side  of  the  Illinois  river,  12  miles 
below  Peoria,  and  158  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The  landing  is  tolerably 
good  at  a  moderate  stage  of  the  river,  but  too  shoal  at  a  low  stage. 

Pekin  contains  twelve  stores',  three  groceries,  two  taverns  (and  a  splendid  hotel 
building  by  a  company),  seven  lawyers,  four  physicians,  four  ministers  of  the  gos- 
pel, one  drug-store,  three  forwarding  and  commission  houses,  two  houses  for 
slaughtering  and  packing  pork,  one  auction  house,  a  printing-office  which  issues 
the  Tazewell  Telegraph,  and  about  eight  hundred  inhabitants. 

There  is  also  one  steam  flouring-mill  that  manufactures  two  hundred  barrels  of 

flour  per  day,  a  steam  saw-mill  and  two  steam  distilleries,  an  academy,  and  a  com- 

______  „-. 


126  SKETCHES*  OF  THE  CITIES 

— %      •    •  ;  - 

mon  school.     The  religious  denominations  are  Presbyterian,  Methodist,  and  Uni- 
tarian, which  have  houses  of  worship. 

PEORIA  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Illinois  river,  at  the  foot  of  Peoria 
lake,  and  about  170  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river.  It  is  the  county  town  of 
Peoria  county.  The  situation  and  country  in  the  vicinity  are  thus  described  by  Dr. 
Beck,  in  his  Gazetteer  of  Illinois  and  Missouri : — 

"The  situation  of  this  place  is  beautiful  beyond  description.  From  the  mouth 
of  the  Kjckapoo  or  Redbud  creek,  which  empties  into  the  Illinois,  two  miles  below 
the  old  fort,  the  alluvion  is  a  prairie,  which  stretches  itself  along  the  river  in  a 
north-westerly  direction,  three  or  four  miles.  The  shore  is  chiefly  made  up  .of 
rounded  pebbles,  and  is  filled  with  springs  of  the  finest  water.  The  first  bank, 
\vhich  is  from  six  to  twelve  feet  above  high-water  mark,  extends  west  about  a 
quarter  of  ar mile  from  the  river,  gradually  ascending,  when  it  rises  five  or  six  feet 
to  the  second  bank.  This  extends  nearly  on  a  level  to  the  bluffs,  which  are  from 
sixty  to  one  hundred  feet  in  height.  These  bluffs  consist  of  rounded  pebbles,  over- 
laying strata  of  limestone  and  sandstone,  rounded  at  the  top,  and  corresponding  in 
their  course  with  the  meanders  of  the  river  and  lake.  The  ascent,  although  steep, 
is  not  perpendicular.  On  the  bluffs  the  surface  again  becomes  level,  and  is  beau- 
tifully interspersed  with  prairie  and  woodland. 

"  From  the  bluffs  the  prospeet  is  uncommonly  fine.  Looking  towards  the  east, 
you  first  behold  an  extensive  prairie,  which  in  spring  and  summer  is  covered  with 
grass,  with  whose  green  the  brilliant  hues  of  a  thousand  flowers  form  the  most 
lively  contrast.  Beyond  this,  the  lake,  clear  and  calm,  may  be  seen  emptying  itself 
into,  or  by  its  contraction  forming,  the  river,  whose  meanders,  only  hid  from  the 
view  by  the  beautiful  groves  of  timber  which  here  and  there  arise,  can  be  traced 
to  the  utmost  extent  of  vision  " 

Peoria  now  has  twenty-nw  stores,  two  wholesafe  and  five  retail  groceries,  two 
drug-stores,  two  hotels  and  several  boarding-houses,  two  free  schools  and  an  incor- 
porated academy,  two  Presfljtatian  houses  of  worship  and  congregations,  one 
Methodist,  one  Baptist,  one'  UMjrian,  and  one  Episcopal  congregation,  six  law- 
yers, eight  or  ten  physicians,  one  brewery,  two  stejjn  saw-mills,  the  usual  propor- 
tion of  mechanics,  a  court-house  and  jail,  and  a  pote^lioA  of  from  fifteen  to  eighteen 
hundred,  which  is  rapidly  increasing^*  The  "  P^i^Legister  and  North- Western 
Gazetteer"  is  issued  weekly,  by  SJJ£.  .Davis,  Esq.  Vhe  religious  people  of  this 
place  have  contributed  no  less  than  ablbt  twenty-three  thousand  dollars,  the  past 
year,  for  philanthropic  purposes. 

There  are  four  lines  of  stages  leading  from  Peoria,  viz. :  one  to  Galena,  Sundays, 
Tuesdays,  and  Thursdays,  distance  160  miles,  fare  $12;  one  to  Chicago,  same 
days,  distance  160  miles,  fare  $12;  one  to  Springfield,  same  days,  distance  70 
miles,  fare  $6 ;  and  one  to  Knoxville,  on  Thursdays,  distance  46  miles,  fare  $4. 
Some  of  these  are  fine  Troy  post-coaches ;  others  are  open  wagons,  on  lifeless 
springs,  which  do  very  well  on  smooth  ground  in  dry  weather. 

The  old  village  of  Peoria  was  situated  about  one  mile  and  a  half  above  the  lower 
extremity  or  outlet  of  the  Peoria  lake.  This  village  had  been  inhabited  by  the 
French,  previous  to  the  recollection  of  any  of  the  present  generation.  About  the 
year  1778  or  1779,  the  first  house  was  built  in  what  was  then  called  La  Ville  de 
Maillet,  afterwards  the  new  village  of  Peoria,  and  which  has  recently  been  known 
by  the  name  of  Fort  Clark,  situated  about  one  mile  and  a  half  below  the  old  village, 
immediately  at  the  lower  point  or  outlet  of  the  lake.  The  situation  being  preferred 
in  consequence  of  the  water  being  better,  and  its  being  thought  more  healthful,  the 
inhabitants  gradually  deserted  the  old  village,  and,  by  the  year  1796  or  1797,  had 
entirely  abandoned  it,  and  removed  to  the  new  village. 

The  inhabitants  of  Peoria  consisted  generally  of  Indian  traders,  hunters,  and 
voyagers,  and  had  long  formed  a  link  of  connexion  between  the  French  residing 
on  the  waters  of  the  great  lakes  and  the  Mississippi  river.  From  that  happy 
facility  of  adapting  themselves  to  their  situation  and  associates,  for  which  the 
French  are  so  remarkable,  the  inhabitants  of  Peoria  lived  generally  in  harmony 
with  their  savage  neighbours.  It  appears,  however,  that  about  the  year  1781  they 


AND  PRINCIPAL  TOWNS  OF  ILLINOIS.  127 


were  induced  to  abandon  the  village,  from  the  apprehension  of  Indian  hostility ; 
but  soon  after  the  peace  of  1783,  they  again  returned,  and  continued  to  reside 
there  until  the  autumn  of  1812,  when  they  were  forcibly  removed  from  it,  and  the 
place  destroyed,  by  a  Captain  Craig,  of  the  Illinois  militia,  on  the  ground,  as  it  was 
said,  that  his  company  of  militia  were  fired  on  in  the  night,  while  at  anchor  in 
their  boats  before  the  village,  by  Indians  with  whom  the  inhabitants  were  suspected 
by  Craig  to  be  too  intimate  and  friendly.  The  poor  inhabitants,  being  thus  deprived 
of  shelter,  fled  for  refuge  to  the  different  villages  on  the  Mississippi. 

In  September,  1813,  General  Howard  marched  with  about  1400  men  from  Por- 
tage des  Sioux,  for  Peoria.  The  regulars  who  manned  the  boats,  arrived  and 
commenced  building  a  block-house,  which  they  named  Fort  Clark,  in  honour  of 
Gen.  George  Rogers  Clark.  General  Howard,  with  his  mounted  rangers,  ascended 
the  Mississippi  as  high  as  Two  Rivers,  and  then  crossed  over  to  the  Illinois.  By 
this  judicious  plan,  the  whole  frontier  was  swept  of  the  enemy,  who  was  continually 
harassing  them. 

On  the  29th  of  September,  the  general  arrived  at  Fort  Clark.  The  Indians  had 
attacked  it  two  days  before,  but  Lieutenant-Colonel  Nicholas,  who  commanded, 
gave  them  so  warm  a  reception,  that  they  soon  retired.  It  was  concluded  that 
they  had  gone  to  Gomo's  town,  about  thirty  miles  distant.  The  general  immediately 
made  arrangements,  and  marched  the  next  morning  to  attack  it.  When  he  arrived, 
he  found  the  enemy  had  taken  to  the  water,  and  ascended  the  Illinois.  He  burnt 
the  village  and  two  others,  and  remained  in  the  vicinity  for  two  nights.  He  then 
marched  back  to  Peoria,  to  assist  the  regulars  in  building  Fort  Clark,  which  had 
been  commenced  and  named  previous  to  his  arrival. 

With  considerable  labour,  they  cut  and  hauled  the  necessary  timber  across  the 
lake ;  and  the  fort  was  in  a  complete  state  of  defence  in  twelve  days.  While  they 
were  engaged  about  the  fort,  Majors  Christy  and  Boone  were  detached  on  separate 
commands.  The  former  was  ordered  to  ascend  the  river,  in  two  armed  boats,  to 
the  foot  of  the  rapids  (about  80  miles),  to  ascertainJP  the  Indians  had  embodied,  or 
formed  any  new  establishments  in  that  quarter.  Major  Boone  was  sent  over  in  the 
direction  of  Rock  river,  to  collect  every  necessary  information  concerning  their 
traces,  &c.  Both  these  officers*  returned  in  five  or  six  days,  and  reported  that  the 
enemy  had  fled  on  all  points. 

Soon  after  this,  the  weather  became  cold ;  Sad,  as  no  provision  had  been  made 
for  a  winter  campaign,  General  Howard  determined  on  returning,  and  accordingly 
took  up  his  line  of  march  on  the  15th  of  October,  leaving  a  small  garrison  in  the 
fort.  About  the  termination  of  the  war,  Fort  Clark  was  abandoned  by  the  Ameri- 
cans ;  and,  a  short  time  afterwards,  it  was  burnt  by  the  Indians,  as  they  assert, 
through  the  instigation  of  the  traders. 

QUINCY,  the  seat  of  justice  of  Adams  County,  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  Mississippi  river,  about  125  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois  by  water, 
193  miles  north-west  from  Vandalia,  and  974  from  Washington  city.  This  town 
is  only  twelve  years  old,  and  now  has  a  population  of  about  1500.  It  stands  on  a 
beautiful  elevation,  125  feet  above  the  limestone-bound  shore  of  the  Mississippi.  It 
commands  a  fine  view  of  the  river  for  five  or  six  miles  in  each  direction,  and  has 
one  of  the  best  steamboat  landings  to  be  found  on  the  Mississippi.  The  first 
cabin  erected  on  the  site  of  this  town  is  still  in  existence,  and  affords,  by  contrast 
with  the  newly  erected  habitations,  a  pleasing  example  of  the  progress  and  refine- 
ment of  the  place. 

Quincy  contains  an  enterprizing  and  intelligent  community,  suitably  impressed 
with  the  importance  of  religious  and  moral  habits,  among  whom  the  principles  and 
practice  of  temperance  generally  prevail.  In  the  town  there  are  about  25  stores, 
four  or  five  land-offices,  including  the  United  States  land-office  for  the  sale  of  pub- 
lic lands  in  the  Quincy  district ;  three  taverns,  several  gunsmiths,  blacksmiths; 
and  cabinet  shops,  besides  a  number  of  other  mechanics,  eight  or  nine  lawyers  and 
five  physicians,  also  two  steam  saw-mills  and  a  flouring-mill.  The  public  square 
is  large,  and  may  be  made  as  beautiful  as  Washington  Square  in  Philadelphia.  On 
the  east  side  of  it,  a  brick  court-house  is  nearly  completed,  at  an  expense  of  20,000 


128  SKETCHES  OF  THE  CITIES 


dollars.  The  religious  denominations  are  Methodists,  Congregationalists,  Baptists, 
Episcopalians,  German  Lutherans,  and  Roman  Catholics.  The  Methodists  and 
Congregationalists  have  each  erected  churches,  and  the  Baptist  and  Episcopalian 
societies  are  now  building  places  of  worship.  The  sabbath-schools  are  exerting  an 
important  influence  on  the  rising  generation:  of  daily  schools,  there  are  several  of 
respectability. 

The  annual  exports  of  flour  and  pork  amount  to  about  $100,000.  Many  new 
buildings  are  rising,  indicative  of  an  increase  of  wealth  and  prosperity.  The  prai- 
rie in  the  vicinity  of  the  town  is  beautifully  rolling  and  rich,  and  the  whole  county 
forms  one  of  the  best  agricultural  districts  in  the  state.  There  are  generally  at 
Quincy  about  300  arrivals  of  steamboats  in  the  year,  and  there  is  no  impediment 
to  the  navigation  of  the  river  at  any  time,  except  by  the  freezing  of  the  Mississippi, 
which  generally  continues  only  for  a  brief  period. 

Property  has  increased,  in  a  short  period,  from  100  to  1000  per  cent,  in  value. 
With  all  its  natural  and  moral  advantages,  Quincy  must  increase,  and  eventually 
become  a  place  of  importance. 

RUSHVILLE,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Schuyler  county,  is  situated  in  the  central 
part  of  the' county,  at  the  south  end  of  a  beautiful  prairie,  ten  miles  from  the  Illi- 
nois river  at  the  nearest  point,  and  twelve  from  Beardstown.  The  settlements 
around  are  large ;  and  the  town  itself  i  exhibits  a  quietness  and  neatness  in  its  ex- 
ternal appearance,  that  is  highly  pleasing  to  the  traveller. 

This  town  was  laid  out  in  1827,  when  the  county  was  formed,  and  two  years 
afterwards  contained  only  seven  nouses:  they  now  amount  to  near  400,  with  a 
population  of  about  1200  persons.  It  contains  five  churches,  twelve  stores,  besides 
several  groceries  and  other  establishments,  a  considerable  variety  of  mechanics, 
(more  of  whom  are  much  wanted,)  and  a  number  of  professional  gentlemen.  The 
court-house  is  of  brick,  two  stories  high ;  and  the  people  have  erected  a  brick 
school-house.  Good  building  stone,  and  plenty  of  coal,  are  found  in  the  vicinity. 
A  rail-road  from  Rushville  to  A* town  of  Erie  on  the  Illinois,  ten  miles  in  length, 
is  contemplated :  most  of  the  srock  has  been  subscribed.  This  improvement  will 
give  Rushville  all  the  advantages  of  a  river  situation,  free  from  the  diseases  to 
which  some  of  the  river  towns  are  subject.  ,v  . 

SHAWNEETOWN  occupies  a  'beautiful  situation  on  the  western  bank  of  the 
Ohio  river,  nine  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Wabash,  and  120  above  the  junction 
of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers.  Its  distance  from  Pittsburg  by  water  is  about 
900  miles,  and  from  New  Orleans  about  1200. 

The  town  stands  on  a  level  plain,  and  embraces  a  view  of  the  river  of  two  or 
five  miles  in  each  direction.  There  was  formerly  a  village  of  Shawnee  Indians  at 
this  spot ;  but  it  was  forsaken  before  the  whites  attempted  a  settlement,  and  no 
vestige  of  it  now  remains,  except  two  small  mounds.  A  few  cabins  were  after- 
wards built  by  the  French  traders;  but  these  had  also  disappeared,  and  the  ground 
was  covered  with  bushes  when  the  present  town  was  established.  As  recently  as 
the  year  1808,  there  was  not  a  house  on  the  ground.  In  February  1812,  an  office 
for  the  sale  of  public  lands  was  established  at  this  place;  and  in  March  1814,  an 
act  was  passed  by  Congress,  providing  that  two  sections  of  land  adjoining  Shaw- 
nee  Town  should  be  laid  out  into  two  lots,  streets,  avenues,  and  outlets,  and  sold 
in  the  same  manner  as  other  public  lands.  . .  -, 

The  bank  of  the  Ohio  at  this  place  has  a  gradual  ascent,  but  is  subject  to  inun- 
dation at  the  extreme  floods.  Between  the  town  and  the  bluffs  the  surface  is  still 
lower,  and  more  frequently  submerged.  Though  no  considerable  sickness  has  pre- 
vailed in  this  town  for  some  years  past,  it  cannot  but  be  regarded  as  less  healthful 
than  the  more  elevated  portions  of  the  state. 

Shawnee  Town  is  the  principal  commercial  place  in  the  southern  part  of  Illinois, 
and  a  good  deal  of  business  is  transacted  both  in  the  wholesale  and  retail  line.  It 
has  eight  or  ten  stores,  several  groceries,  two  public  houses,  and  600  or  700  inhabi- 
tants. The  land-office  for  the  district  is  in  this  place ;  and  there  is  a  printing- 
office,  which  publishes  a  weekly  paper  called  the  Illinois  Advertiser.  There  is 


AND  PRINCIPAL  TOWNS  OF  ILLINOIS,  129 


likewise  a  bank  here,  which  was  chartered  by  the  territorial  legislature,  and  which 
has  recently  recommenced  doing  business,  after  a  suspension  of  several  years. 

SPRINGFIELD,  the  seat  of  justice  of  Sangamon  county,  is  very  nearly  in  the 
centre  of  the  state  of  Illinois;  being  197  miles  ;a  little  west  of  north  from  the 
junction  of  the  Mississippi  and  Ohio  rivers,  and  185  miles  due  south  of  the  north- 
ern boundary  of  the  state,  114  miles  west  of  the  eastern  boundary,  and  91  east  of 
the  Mississippi  river.  The  town  is  situated  four  miles  south  of  the  Sangamon  river, 
on  the  border  of  a  beautiful  and  extensive  prairie,  adorned  with  ^excellent  and  well- 
cultivated  farms,  and  stretching  away  on  every  side  to  the  blue  line  of  distant 
forest 

Springfield  was  laid  out  about  fifteen  years  ago :  but  for  nine  or  ten  years,  it 
contained  only  a  few  scattered  log  cabins.  All  its  present  wealth  or  importance 
dates  from  the  last  six  years.  Its  geographically  central  situation  fits  it  most  admi- 
rably for  the  future  capital  of  the  state  ;  while  its  location  by  nature  in  the  heart 
of  the  most  fertile  region  in  the  western  country,  and  the  important  public  works 
contemplated  to  intersect  it,  cannot  fail  of  rendering  it  a  place  of  extensive  business 
and  crowded  population. 

The  public  square,  a  green  pleasant  lawn  inclosed  by  a  railing,  contains  the 
court-house  and  a  market,  both  fine  structures  of  brick ;  and  the  sides  surrounding 
the  square  are  lined  with  handsome  edifices.  •  Many  of  the  buildings,  however,  are 
small ;  and  the  humble  log  cabin,  the  abiding  place  of  some  of  the  first  settlers, 
not  unfrequently  meets  the  eye.  Among  its  public  structures  are  a  jail,  and  houses 
of  worship  for  two  Presbyterian  churches,  one  Baptist  Reformer,  one  Methodist, 
one  Episcopalian,  and  one  Baptist  society,  all  of  which  have  ministers  and  respect- 
able congregations. 

The  town  contains  excellent  schools  for  both  sexes».and  an  academy :  there  are 
also  nineteen  dry-goods  stores,  one  .wholesale  and  six  retail  groceries,  four  public 
houses,  four  drug-stores,  one  book-store,  two  clothing  stores,  eleven  lawyers,  eigh- 
teen physicians,  including  steam-doctors,  one  foundry  for  casting,  four  carding 
machines,  mechanics  and  trades  of  various  descriptions,  and  two  printing-offices, 
from  which  are  issued  weekly  the  Illinois  Republican,  and  the  Sangamon  Journal. 

By  a  recent  act  of  the  legislature,  Springfield  is  to  be  the  permanent  seat  of 
government  after  1840 ;  and  an  appropriation  has  been  made  of  $50,000,  and  com- 
missioners appointed  to  build  a  state-house. 

UPPER  ALTON  is  a  delightfully  situated  town  in  Madison  county,  built  on 
elevated  ground,  two  and.  a  half  miles  back  from  the  river,  and  east  from  Alton. 
The  situation  of  the  town  is  high  and  healthy.  The  country  around  was  origin- 
ally timbered  land,  and  is  undulating:  the  prevailing  growth  consists  of  oaks  of 
various  species,  hickory,  walnut,  etc. 

Upper  Alton  was  laid  off  by  the  proprietor  in  1816;  and  in  1821,  it  contained  50 
or  60  families.  In  1827,  it  had  dwindled  down  to  a  few,  from  several  causes.  But 
since  the  commencement  of  Alton,  the  flourishing  mercantile  town  on  the  river,  it 
has  experienced  a  rapid  growth,  and  will  doubtless  continue  to  advance  proportion- 
ate to  the  progress  of  the  town  and  country  around.  There  are  eight  stores,  five 
groceries,  two  lawyers,  five  physicians,  mechanics  of  various  descriptions,  a  steam 
saw  and  flour  mill,  and  about  300  families,  or  1500  inhabitants.  The  Baptists, 
Methodists,  and  Presbyterians,  each  have  houses  of  worship.  The  Baptist  and 
Presbyterian  houses  are.  handsome  stone  edifices,  with  spires,  bells,  &c.,  and  pro- 
vided with  ministers.  There  are  sevei)  or  eight  ministers  of  the  gospel,  residents 
of  this  place,  some  of  whom  are  connected  with  the  college  and  the  Theological 
seminary ; — others  are  agents  for  some  of  the  public  benevolent  institutions,  whose 
families  reside  here.  Good  morals,  religious  privileges,  the  advantages  for  educa- 
tion in  the  college,  and  in  three  respectable  common  schools,  with  an  intelligent 
and  agreeable  society,  make  this  town  a  desirable  residence. 

VANDALIA,  the  capital  of  the  state,  and  the  seat  of  justice  for  Fayette  county, 
was  laid  out  in  1818,  by  commissioners  appointed  for  that  purpose,  under  the  au- 

R 


130  CULTIVATION  OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 


thority  of  the  state.  It  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Kaskaskia  river,  about 
82  miles  north-east  from  St.  Louis,  138  north  of  the  j  unction  .of  the  Mississippi  and 
Ohio  rivers,  and  781  from  Washington  City.  The  site  is  high,  undulating,  and 
was  originally  a  timbered  tract.  The  streets  cross  at  right  angles,  and  are  SO  feet 
in  width.  The  public  square  is  on  elevated  ground.  The  public  buildings  are,  a 
state-house  of  brick,  and  sufficiently  commodious  for  legislative  purposes,  unfinish- 
ed ;  a  neat  framed  house  of  worship  for  the  Presbyterian  society,  with  a  cupola 
and  bell ;  a  framed  meeting-house  for  the  Methodist  society ;  another  small  public 
building  open  for  -all  denominations,  and  for  schools,  and  other  public  purposes. 
There  are  in  the  town  two  printing-offices  that  issue  weekly  papers,  the  State 
Register  and  the  Free  Press,  four  taverns,  eight  stores,  two  groceries,  one  clothing 
store,  two  schools,  four  lawyers,  four  physicians,  one  steam  and  one  water  saw-mill, 
one  minister  of  the  gospel,  and  about  850  inhabitants.  Near  the  river  the  country 
generally  is  heavily  timbered,  but  a  few  miles  back  are  extensive  prairies.  The 
national  road  has  been  permanently  located  and  partially  constructed  to  this  place. 
Vandalia  will  continue  to  be  the  capital  of  Illinois  until  the  year  1840 ;  after 
which  period,  as  decided  by  a  late  act  of  the  state  legislature,  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment will  be  removed  to  Springfield,  in  Sangamon  county,  where  the  sum  of 
$50,000  has  been  appropriated  to  build  a  state-house  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
legislature,  and  for  other  public  purposes. 

WHITEHALL  is  a  recently  settled  town  in  the  northern  part  of  Greene  county, 
on  the  main  road  from  Carrollton  to  Jacksonville,  about  10  miles  north  of  the  former 
place,  and  12  miles  east  of  the  Illinois  river :  it  is  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile  and 
well-settled  tract  of  country,  and  contains  nine  stores,  two  groceries,  two  taverns, 
three  physicians,  one  school,  and  an  incorporation  for  a  seminary,  a  steam-mill  in 
the  vicinity,  framed  houses  of  worship  for  Methodists  and  Baptists,  and  600  inhab- 
itants. 

WINCHESTER  is  situated  in  Morgan  county,  14  miles  from  Naples,  and  16 
from  Jacksonville.  Its  population  is  already  estimated  at  600 ;  and  it  enjoys  the 
advantages  of  good  schools,  mills,  and  manufacturing  establishments.  It  was  laid 
off  in  1831,  on  elevated  ground,  and  is  a  thriving  town,  increasing  rapidly,  has 
several  stores,  and  a  number  of  mechanics  of  various  descriptions.  The  Baptists, 
Methodists,  and  Congregationalists,  have  societies  here.  It  has  excellent  lime  and 
freestone  quarries  in  the  vicinity,  and  several  mills. 

Winchester  is  one  of  the  chief  points  on  the  line  of  the  rail-road  from  Jackson- 
ville to  Augusta  on  the  Illinois  river.  A  distance  of  seven  and  a  half  miles  on  this 
road,  from  Winchester  to  Lynnville,  is  now  under  contract,  and  in  a  state  of  great 
forwardness. 


CULTIVATION  OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 


The  following  letter  from  the  Hon.  H.  L.  Ellsworth,  superintendent  of  the  patent 
office  at  Washington  City,  gives  a  better  idea  of  the  cost  of  cultivating  the 
western  prairies  than  we  have  before  seen,  and  we  think  our  readers  generally 
will  be  pleased  with  a  perusal  of  it -Sangamo  Journal. 

Washington,  Jan.  ],  1837. 

DEAR  SIR— You  doubtless  expect  some  further  statement  than  has  been  received 
respecting  the  investment  made  for  you  in  the  valley  of  the  Wabash.  A  desire 
to  meet  my  son,  who  was  daily  expected  from  Lafayette,  has  delayed  my  writing 


CULTIVATION  OF  THE  PRAIRIES.  131 


until  this  time.  And  now,  let  me  say,  generally,  that  the  west  has  grown,  and 
will  continue  to  increase  beyond  the  most  sanguine  calculation.  Nor  will  any 
action  of  the  general  government  materially  check  the  advancement  of  the  lands 
which  are  judiciously  located  on  the  great  western  canals  or  rail-roads.  Very  little 
is  yet  known  of  the  valley  of  the  Wabash.  Although  the  fertility  of  the  soil  is 
unequalled,  few  have  ever  seen  this  country.  The  reason  is  obvious;  there  is  no 
communication  with  it ;  and  hence,  speculators  and  settlers  have  passed  around  it, 
going  west,  either  by  the  Michigan  lake,  or  by  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers. 

Five  thousand  persons  left  Buftalo  in  one  day  to  go  up  the  lake,  and  yet  not  one 
went  into  the  valley  of  the  Wabash.  A  slight  inspection  of  the  maps  of  Indiana, 
Ohio,  and  Illinois,  will  show  a  direct  route  to  the  Mississippi  from  the  west  end  of 
Lake  Erie,  to  be  up  the  Maumee,  and  down  the  Wabash  valley  to  Lafayette.  It 
may,  therefore,  be  considered  certain,  that  when  the  rail-road  from  St.  Louis  to 
Lafayette  is  completed,  the  great  travel  from  the  Mississippi  valley  to  the  east, 
will  be  by  the  lakes,  through  the  Wabash  and  Erie  canal,  the  shortest  and  quickest 
route  by  several  days.  A  person  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  will  pass  up  to  St. 
Louis,  then  take  the  rail-road  and  canal  to  Lake  Erie,  in  preference  to  following 
the  meanders  of  the  Ohio  river  in  a  steamboat.  Can  there  be  a  doubt  on  this 
subject  ] — What  time  will  be  occupied  on  this  route  to  New-York  1  Not  exceed- 
ing six  days.  From  St.  Louis  to  Lafayette  (240  miles),  one  day  may  be  allowed ; 
from  Lafayette  to  the  lake,  at  the  rate  of  4|  to  5  miles  on  the  canal  (now  in  opera- 
tion considerable  part  of  the  way),  forty-eight  hours ;  and  from  the  lake  to  New- 
York  city,  via  rail-road  (now  commenced),  not  exceeding  two  days. 

What  changes  this  must  make  in  the  value  of  property  on  the  route !  The  value 
of  land  depends  on  the  fertility  of  the  soil  and  the  facility  of  transportation.  From 
a  personal  inspection  of  the  western  states,  during  six  months  past,  I  am  fully  con- 
vinced the  Wabash  valley  has  the  best  soil  and  most  favourable  climate.  In  the 
latitude  of  Philadelphia,  you  avoid  the  extreme  of  great  heat  in  summer,  and  of 
cold  in  winter,  and  also  avoid  the  danger  of  early  frosts,  so  prevalent  in  higher 
latitudes.  You  may  ask,  what  will  be  the  markets  for  Indiana1?  I  answer,  New- 
York  and  New-Orleans,  the  former  by  the  Erie  canal,  and  the  latter  by  the  Wabash 
river  (navigable  to  Lafayette  for  steamboats),  and  by  the  rail-road  above-mentioned 
to  St  Louis;  also  Montreal,  by  the  Welland  canal.  A  choice  of  all  these  markets, 
equally  accessible,  is  presented  to  farmers  on  the  Wabash  valley,  who  possess  a 
great  advantage  over  Michigan  and  Wisconsin,  in  the  early  navigation  of  the  Wa- 
bash river.  The  produce  of  this  valley  can  by  this  river  .pass  down  to  New-Orleans 
in  flat-boats,  free  of  tolls,  and  be  transported  to  Charleston,  Baltimore,  New- York, 
and  Boston,  six  weeks  before  the  New- York  canal  opens.— This  early  market  may 
be  estimated  at  a  good  profit  in  business. 

You  may  ask  if  the  Wabash  and  Erie  canals  will  surely  be  completed?  Un- 
doubtedly they  will.  Indiana  and  Ohio  are  pledged  to  complete  them.  Nearly 
all  is  now  under  contract,  and  government  has  given  lands  adjoining  sufficient  to 
finish  the  same  without  any  expense  to  the  states. 

As  like  causes  (other  things  being  equal)  produce  like  effects,  it  will  not  tax 
your  credulity  to  believe,  that  the  rich  lands  on  the  Wabash  valley  will  equal  those 
on  the  Ohio,  New- York,  and  Pennsylvania  canals,  which  vary  from  25  to  60  dol- 
lars per  acre.  Is  it  possible  that  lands  yielding  40  bushels  of  wheat,  70  of  corn,  60 
of  oats,  and  450  of  potatoes,  and  distant  only  ten  or  twelve  days  transportation  from 
New- York  or  New-Orleans  cities,  can  be  less  than  $50  per  acre  ? 

In  making  selections,  I  have,  when  practicable,  procured  both  prairie  and  tim- 
ber, though  I  am  sure  there  has  been  a  common  error  to  pass  the  rich  prairie 
because  timber  cannot  be  found  adjoining  at  the  government  price.  Under  this 
belief  many  settlers  have,  to  their  sorrow,  entered  the  timber  and  left  the  prairie, 
because  they  supposed  nobody  would  enter  that  without  possessing  the  timber. 
The  prairie  has  been  entered  lately.  And  such  is  the  facility  for  raising  timber  on 
prairies,  by  sowing  the  seed  of  black  walnut  and  locust,  that  the  desire  for  timber 
land  has  diminished.  Those  who  doubt  the  comparative  value  of  timber  land,  will 
do  well  to  consider  that  12  dollars  is  a  fair  price  for  clearing  timber  land. 

Timber  land,  when  cleared  in  the  usual  manner,  is  left  incumbered  with  stumps 


132  CULTIVATION  OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 


and  roots,  fatal  obstacles  to  labour-saving  machines.  $12,000  will  be  required  to 
clear  1000  acres  of  timber  land ;  whereas  the  1000  acres  of  prairie  can  be  put  in 
tame  grass  without  ploughing. 

A  prairie  farm  may  be  put  in  complete  cultivation  at  from  $3.75  to  $9  per  acre, 
according  to  the  computations  of  my  son  Edward,  who  has  been  extensively 
engaged  in  cultivating  the  prairie  for  the  last  year.  From  a  personal  examination 
of  the  land  in  France,  and  on  the  Wabash  valley,  I  feel  no  hesitation  in  pronouncing 
the  latter  decidedly  the  best  for  the  beet  sugar  manufacture.  In  France,  eight, 
ten,  and  twelve  dollars  per  acre  are  paid  for  rent,  and  yet  great  profits  are  made. 
An  acre  of  good  land  will  yield  44,000  pounds  of  sugar  beet,  from  which  2400 
pounds  of  sugar  can  be  extracted,  which,  at  ten  cents  per  pound,  amounts  to  240 
dollars  per  acre. 

In  England,  paper  is  now  made  from  the  residuum  of  beets,  after  the  saccharine 
matter  is  extracted.  An  application  for  a  similar  patent  is  now  pending  in  the 
patent  office.  The  sample  of  paper  exhibited  is  very  good,  and  the  rapidity  with 
which  the  paper  is  made,  must  reduce  materially  the  price  of  the  article.  Many 
labour-saving  machines  are  introduced  to  aid  in  the  cultivation  of  new  lands.  In 
a  few  years  it  is  probable  that  ploughing  on  smooth  lands  will  be  effected  by  steam, 
and  even  now  mowing  and  reaping  are  successfully  done  by  horse-power. 

Such  are  the  profits  of  cultivation,  that  I  would  advise  all  who  can  to  improve 
some  part  of  their  lands.  A  small  improvement  will  repay  expenditures,  and 
greatly  enhance  the  value  of  the  whole  investment.  Three  benefits  may  be 
expected :  1.  The  crops  will  pay  expenses  and  yield  a  great  profit.  2.  The  land 
cultivated  and  the  land  adjoining  will  be  advanced  several  hundred  per  cent.  3.  If 
stock  is  put  on  the  farm  the  same  is  numerically  increased,  and  greatly  enhanced 
in  value  by  improving  the  breed. 

Either  of  these  considerations  is  sufficient  to  justify  cultivation  and  guaranty  a 
large  return.  I  might  mention  the  successful  cultivation  of  hay  in  the  west — from 
one  and  a  half  to  two  tons  is  a  fair  crop.  This  can  be  cut  and  pressed  without  any 
labour-saving  machines  at  two  dollars  per  ton :  and  if  the  grass  was  cut  by  horse- 
power, the  expense  would  be  still  less.  The  profits  on  one  hundred  heifers  at  five 
dollars,  might  easily  be  supposed.  Fifty  breeding  sows  would  probably  bring  700 
pigs  per  annum,  and  by  these  means  a  large  farm  could  be  stocked  with  little 
capital  advanced. 

Hay  at  New-Orleans  varies  from  20  to  50  dollars  per  ton.  An  average  for  the 
last  three  years  may  be  thirty  dollars.  The  cost  of  floating  down  hay  in  flat-boats 
to  New-Orleans  may  be  eight  dollars  per  ton. 

There  is  a  practice  mentioned  by  Mr.  Newell,  and  highly  recommended  by 
others,  of  putting  in  hay-seed  without  ploughing  the  ground.  This  is  done  by 
burning  the  prairie  grass  in  the  spring,  and  harrowing  in  the  seed.  The  seed 
catches  quick  and  grows  well  Blue  grass  especially  succeeds  in  this  way,  and 
the  grass  will  sustain  stock  all  winter  without  cutting  hay  or  fodder  for  them.  A 
large  drove  of  horses  was  kept  last  winter  at  Indianapolis  on  blue  grass,  on  the 
open  fields,  at  the  small  expense  of  one  dollar  per  head  per  month. 

From  personal  examination,  I  am  convinced  that  ditching  and  hedging,  as  prac- 
tised in  Holland,  England,  and  France,  almost  entirely,  and  successfully  adopted 
in  Illinois,  is  cheaper  than  rails.  The  general  complaint  of  the  earth  crumbling 
by  frost  is  prevented  by  sowing  blue  grass  seed  on  the  sides.  Mulberry  trees 
might  be  raised  on  the  slope  of  the  ditch,  with  great  profit.  Indeed,  such  is  the 
rapid  growth  of  the  mulberry  in  these  rich  prairie  lands,  that  the  purchase  of  this 
land  at  $1.25  an  acre,  and  planted  by  these  trees  alone,  would  in  a  few  years  be 
highly  valuable.  Such  is  the  extent  of  the  prairie,  that  woodland  will  always  be 
valuable  for  timber.  The  woodland  is  also  rich,  and  fine  for  cultivation;  and  if 
trees  under  a  certain  diameter  are  cut,  a  fine  grazing  farm  may  easily  be  made, 
and  the  good  timber  preserved.  Similar  pastures  are  found  in  Kentucky;  these 
yield  $3  profit  per  acre  annually.  It  may  be  asked,  how  can  non-residents  best 
cultivate  their  lands?  I  would  remark,  that  it  is  customary  to  rent  land  (once 
broke  and  fenced),  for  one-third  of  the  crop,  delivered  iii  the  crib  or  barn.  At  this 
rent  the  tenants  find  all. 


LETTERS  FROM  A  RAMBLER  IN  THE  WEST.  133 


I  would  advise  to  employ  smart  enterprising  young  men  from  the  New  England 
states,  to  take  the  farm  on  shares.  If  the  landlord  should  find  a  house,  team,  cart, 
and  plough,  and  add  some  stock,  he  might  then  require  one-half  of  the  profits  of 
the  same.  I  would  advise  to  allow  for  fencing  or  ditching  a  certain  sum,  and 
stipulate  that  the  capital  invested  should  be  returned  before  the  profits  were 
divided.  A  farmer  could  in  this  way  earn  for  himself  from  $700  to  $1000  per 
annum,  on  a  lease  for  five  years.  The  second  year  a  mowing  machine  might  be 
furnished,  if  one  hundred  acres  were  seeded  down  to  tame  grass.  Mast  for  swine 
is  found  in  great  abundance,  and  the  number  of  hogs  could  easily  be  increased  to 
one  thousand  by  adding  to  the  number  of  breeding  sows. 

Corn  is  so  easily  raised  that  it  is  found  advantageous  to  turn  hogs  into  a  field  of 
this  grain  without  gathering  it.  It  has  long  been  the  practice  in  New- York  to 
raise  oats  and  peas  together,  and  turn  in  the  swine  to  harvest  the  same  when  ripe. 
Experiments  this  summer  in  Connecticut  show  a  great  profit  in  raising  spring 
wheat  and  oats  together,  and  feeding  out  the  same  to  hogs.  I  have  omitted  to  say 
that  good  bituminous  coal  is  found  in  the  valley  of  the  Wabash.  The  veins  are 
from  five  to  ten  feet  thick,  and  a  large  wagon-load  will  supply  one  fire  for  a  year. 
Salt  is  also  manufactured  in  large  quantities  and  superior  in  quality  to  the  Ken- 
hawa  salt. 

Farmers  in  Indiana  and  Illinois  are  now  successfully  inclosing  their  farms  by 
ditching,  which  has  cost  from  fifty  to  seventy-five  cents  per  rod.  The  laws  of  the 
states  of  Indiana  and  Illinois  compel  the  owners  of  lands  adjoining  to  pay  one  half 
of  fencing,  whenever  they  make  use  of,  or  derive  any  benefits  from  the  fences  of 
their  neighbour.  This  lessens  the  expense  of  fencing  one-half. 

If  it  be  asked  what  are  the  profits  of  cultivation]  I  answer,  if  the  land  is  rented 
for  five  years,  the  profits  accruing  during  this  period  will  repay  the  capital 
advanced  in  the  commencement,  with  twenty-five  per  cent,  interest  per  annum, 
and  leave  the  farm  worth  twenty  dollars  per  acre  at  the  expiration  of  the  lease. 
Probably  the  profit  will  be  much  greater.  Yours,  respectfully, 

H.  L.  ELLSWORTH. 


LETTERS  FROM  A  RAMBLER  IN  THE  WEST. 


The  six  following  letters  from  the  pen  of  a  talented  young  Philadelphian,  a  cor- 
respondent of  the  editor  of  the  Pennsylvania  Inquirer  and  Daily  Courier,  appeared 
in  the  columns  of  that  gazette  during  the  spring  of  the  present  year,  under  the 
title  of  "  A  Rambler  in  the  West."  They  are  beautifully  written,  and  possess 
more  than  ordinary  interest  for  those  anxious  to  acquire  information  relative  to  the 
Western  County,  more  particularly  the  state  of  Illinois. 

No.  I. 
The  Journey — The  "  Far  West" — A  Prairie  on  fire — Alton — Chicago. 

Vundalia  (111.),  Jan.  29,  1837. 

I  promised  you,  my  dear  P ,  when  I  left  our  good  Quaker  city,  that  I  would 

give  you  some  account  of  my  wanderings.  I  had  intended  long  ere  this  to  have 
complied  with  my  promise,  but  circumstances  which  we  cannot  control  have  hith- 
erto prevented  me  from  discharging  that  pleasing  duty.  I  design  now,  however, 
to  present  yon  with  a  short  account  of  my  rambles. 

The  morning  was  cold  and  lowering,  and  the  rain  was  descending  in  torrents, 
when  the  carriage  arrived  which  was  to  convey  me  on  my  journey.  It  was  truly 

12 


134  LETTERS  FROM 


a  cheerless  morn,  and  the  streets  through  which  we  passed  were  almost  deserted, 
save  where  here  and  there  a  single  pedestrian,  wrapping  himself  in  his  cloak,  de- 
fied the  "  peltings  of  the  pitiless  storm."  I  need  not  say  that  the  lowering  appear- 
ance of  the  heavens  tended  in  any  degree  to  elevate  the  spirits  of  the  youthful 
adventurer,  who  was  leaving  the  scenes  of  his  early  days — the  home  of  his  youth 
— the  thousand  sweet  associations  of  friends  and  "  fatherland,"  on  a  tour  of  experi- 
ment to  a  new  and  almost  unsettled  country.  But  I  had  determined  that  the  feel- 
ings of  regret  and  despondency,  so  natural  to  the  occasion,  should  not  have  a 
lodgement  in  my  bosom — for  experience  had  fully  convinced  me  that  they  produce 
no  beneficial  results,  but  were  oft-times  productive  of  serious  injury.  Brushing 
away  a  hasty  tear,  which,  in  spite  of  all  my  philosophy,  lingered  in  my  eye,  I 
bounded  into  the  car  with,  apparently,  a  light  and  joyful  heart.  The  door  closed, 
and  soon  the  last  glimpse  of  my  much-loved  city  faded  from  my  view.  After  be- 
stowing my  hearty  benedictions  on  it  and  the  many  kind  friends  its  walls  contained, 
I  applied  myself  to  the  accomplishment  of  my  purposes.  I  was  anxious  to  obtain 
a  knowledge  of  the  country  through  which  I  passed,  the  character  of  its  popula- 
tion, the  nature  of  its  soil  and  climate,  and  that  mass  of  valuable  information 
which  travel  alone  can  furnish. 

My  course  lay  through  the  line  of  internal  improvements  of  the  State  of  Penn- 
sylvania, which  are  truly  creditable  to  her  citizens,  and  without  much  delay  I 
arrived  at  Pittsburgh,  whose  business  and  activity  indeed  surprised  me.  I  entered 
one  of  the  noble  steamers  which  crowded  her  wharves,  and  was  soon  proceeding 
at  a  rapid  rate  over  the  calm  and  tranquil  waters  of  the  "  Beautiful  River."  Away 
we  flew  over  its  glad  waters,  and  soon  the  spires  and  steeples  of  St.  Louis  peeped 
over  the  distant  hills.  I  thought,  upon  my  arrival  there,  that  I  was  approaching 
the  "far  west;"  but  when  I  mentioned  west,  I  was  laughed  at,  and  was  pointed  to 
that  immense  region  which  stretched  far  beyond  the  Mississippi,  and  was  told,  that 
when  I  travelled  week  after  week,  and  thousands  upon  thousands  of  miles  in  that 
direction,  I  would  then  be  approaching  the  confines  of  the  "Great  West"  I  was 
inclined  to  be  discouraged ;  but  being  determined  to  visit  the  Illinois  country,  be- 
fore attempting  that  arduous  journey,  I  was  soon  on  another  boat,  and  ploughing 
the  dark  and  troubled  waters  of  the  rapid  Mississippi.  The  day  I  left  St.  Louis 
was  peculiarly  fine — one  of  those  days  in  autumn  when  summer  seems  to  linger 
on  earth,  as  if  unwilling  to  yield  to  Boreas'  chill  and  nipping  blast 

The  scenery  on  the  banks  of  the  river  was  truly  grand  and  sublime.  Large  jets 
of  rock  obtruded  far  into  the  stream,  and  reared  their  mighty  heads  almost  to  the 
clouds.  So  regular  were  they  in  their  proportions,  and  so  nicely  chiselled,  it 
seemed  as  if  dame  Nature  had  built  for  herself,  in  this  western  world,  a  huge  and 
mighty  castle,  with  lofty  columns  and  frowning  battlements,  defying  the  skill  of 
man  to  rival  its  majestic  grandeur.  Whilst  enjoying  the  sublimity  of  the  scene, 
night  threw  her  mantle  o'er  the  earth,  and  the  "  sentinel  stars  set  their  watch  in  the 
skies"  —  when  suddenly  the  scene  was  lighted  by  a  blaze  of  light  illuminating 
every  object  around.  Lo,  it  was  the  prairie  on  fire.  Language  cannot  convey, 
words  cannot  express  to  you  the  faintest  idea  of  the  grandeur  and  splendour  of  that 
mighty  conflagration.  Methought  that  the  pale  queen  of  night,  disdaining  to  take 
her  accustomed  place  in  the  heavens,  had  despatched  ten  thousand  messengers  to 
light  their  torches  at  the  altar  of  the  setting  sun,  and  that  now  they  were  speeding 
on  the  wings  of  the  wind  to  their  appointed  stations.  As  I  gazed  on  that  mighty 
conflagration,  my  thoughts  recurred  to  you,  immured  in  the  walls  of  a  city,  and  I 
exclaimed,  in  the  fullness  of  my  heart, 

"  Oh  fly  to  the  prairie,  in  wonder,  and  gaze 
As  o  er  the  grass  sweeps  the  magnificent  blaze 
The  world  cannot  boast  so  romantic  a  sight —  .- 

A  continent  flaming  'mid  oceans  of  light" 

I  arrived  early  on  the  following  morning  at  Alton,  which  is  a  flourishing  and 
thriving  place,  and  presents  a  busy  appearance.  With  its  situation  I  was  much 
pleased,  but  more  gratified  with  the  enterprize  of  its  citizens.  Every  one  here  was 
active  and  industrious — there  were  no  loungers — no  idlers — no  "loafers"  to  be 
seen.  Every  one  seemed  engaged  in  some  occupation,  and  was  pursuing  it  with 


A  RAMBLER  IN  THE  WEST.  135 


industry  and  zeal.  Large  stores — as  large  as  those  which  adorn  our  eastern  cities 
— were  building  on  the  water's  edge ;  dwelling  houses  of  all  sizes  were  springing 
up,  and  the  hum  of  busy  industry  was  sounding  through  the  streets.  I  left  this 
city  with  regret,  being  compelled  to  pursue  my  journey.  After  a  very  pleasant 
ride  through  a  most  delightful  country,  I  arrived  at  Chicago. 

Chicago  is,  without  doubt,  the  greatest  wonder  in  this  wonderful  country.  Four 
years  ago  the  savage  Indian  there  built  his  little  wigwam — the  noble  stag  there 
saw  undismayed  his  own  image  reflected  from  the  polished  mirror  of  the  glassy 
lake — the  adventurous  settler  then  cultivated  a  small  portion  of  those  fertile  prai- 
ries, and  was  living  far,  far  away  from  the  comforts  of  civilization.  Four  years 
have  rolled  by,  and  how  changed  that  scene !  That  Indian  is  now  driven  far  west 
of  the  Mississippi ;  he  has  left  his  native  hills — his  hunting  grounds — the  grave  of 
his  father — and  now  is  building  his  home  in  the  far  west,  again  to  be  driven  away  by 
the  mighty  tide  of  emigration.  That  gallant  stag  no  longer  bounds  secure  o'er  those 
mighty  plains,  but  startles  at  the  rustling  of  every  leaf  or  sighing  of  every  wind, 
fearing  the  rifles  of  the  numerous  Nimrods  who  now  pursue  the  daring  chase.  That 
adventurous  settler  is  now  surrounded  by  luxury  and  refinement ;  a  city  with  a  popu- 
lation of  over  six  thousand  souls  has  now  arisen ;  its  spires  glitter  in  the  morning 
sun ;  its  wharves  are  crowded  by  the  vessels  of  trade ;  its  streets  are  alive  with  the 
busy  hum  of  commerce. 

The  wand  of  the  magician  or  the  spell  of  a  talisman  ne'er  effected  changes  like 
these ;  nay,  even  Aladdin's  lamp,  in  all  its  glory,  never  performed  greater  wonders. 
But  the  growth  of  the  town,  extraordinary  as  it  is,  bears  no  comparison  with  that 
of  its  commerce.  In  1833,  there  were  but  four  arrivals — or  about  700  tons.  In 
1836,  there  were  four  hundred  and  fifty-six  arrivals,  or  about  60,000  tons.  Point 
me  if  you  can  to  any  place  in  this  land  whose  trade  has  been  increased  in  the  like 
proportion.  What  has  produced  this  great  prosperity  ]  I  answer,  its  great  natural 
advantages,  and  the  untiring  enterprize  of  its  citizens.  Its  situation  is  unsurpassed 
by  any  in  our  land. 

Lake  Michigan  opens  to  it  the  trade  of  the  north  and  east,  and  the  Illinois  and 
Michigan  canal,  when  completed,  will  open  the  trade  of  the  south  and  south-west. 
But  the  great  share  of  its  prosperity  is  to  be  attributed  to  the  enterprize  of  its 
citizens :  most  of  them  are  young — many  there  are  upon  whose  temple  the  golden 
lock  of  youth  is  not  darkened ;  many  who  a  short  time  since  bade  adieu  to  the  fas- 
cinations of  gay  society,  and  immured  themselves  in  the  western  wilderness,  de- 
termining to  acquire  both  fame  and  fortune.  And  what  has  been  the  result] — 
While  many  of  their  companions  and  former  associates  are  now  toiling  and  strug- 
gling in  the  lowly  vale  of  life,  with  scarcely  enough  of  the  world's  gear  to  drive 
away  the  cravings  of  actual  want — the  enterprizing  adventurer  has  amassed  a 
splendid  fortune — has  contributed  to  build  up  a  noble  city,  the  pride  of  his  adopted 
state,  and  has  truly  caused  the  wilderness  to  bloom  and  blossom  like  the  rose. 
Such  are  always  the  rewards  of  ever  daring  minds. 


NO.  n. 

Peru. 

Peru,  (111.)  Feb.  4.  1837. 

I  resume  my  narrative. 

The  next  point  to  which  my  attention  was  directed  was  Peru.  This  place  will 
unquestionably  become  one  of  the  greatest  inland  towns  in  the  West,  and  second 
only  to  Chicago.  A  traveller  riding  through  would  smile  if  you  were  to  tell  him 
that  this  place  was  destined  to  become  a  city.  One  humble  tenement  is  all  it 
boasts,  and  a  stranger  would  be  apt  to  imagine,  when  you  told  him  that  a  town  was 
laid  out  there,  and  that  lots  were  commanding  from  $1000  to  $2500  apiece,  that 
the  speculating  fever  was  raging  with  all-pervading  influence.  But  upon  careful 
examination  and  mature  reflection,  I  have  arrived  at  the  conclusion  above  stated. 

Peru  is  situated  on  the  Illinois  river,  at  the  head  of  river  navigation,  and  is  the 
point  of  termination  of  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  Canal. 


136  LETTERS  FROM 


This  canal,  when  completed,  will  be  the  most  splendid  project  of  internal  im- 
provement in  the  Union.  Its  dimensions  are  sixty  feet  wide  at  the  top  water 
line — 36  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  six  feet  deep — the  estimated  cost  of  which 
is  nine  millions.  This  is  a  great  link  in  the  grandest  chain  of  internal  improve- 
ments known  in  the  world — "it  unites  the  Mississippi  with  our  inland  seas,  the 
Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  with  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  the  Rocky  mountains  with 
the  Atlantic  coast."  Where  can  be  found  a  work  of  internal  improvement  more 
important  than  this  1 

Besides,  the  great  central  rail-road  from  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  terminates  here. 
It  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  most  fertile  region,  abounding  in  grain,  in  coal,  in 
iron,  and  in  hydraulic  power.  These  things  being  considered,  is  it  wrong  to  sup- 
pose that  a  large  inland  city  will  here  arise  1  For  myself  I  have  no  doubt  of 
the  fact,  and  would  stake  my  reputation  on  the  result.  And  but  a  few  short 
months  ago,  the  land  there  was  entered  by  an  enterprizing  Pennsylvanian,  (one  ! 
who,  by  his  business  talents,  enterprize,  and  unspotted  reputation,  has  amassed  a 
munificent  fortune,  and  who  can  be  pointed  to  as  a  distinguished  example  of  the 
success  which  attends  well-directed  efforts)  for  a  dollar  and  a  quarter  per  acre — 
now  it  will  readily  command  from  5000  to  10,000  dollars  per  acre. 

I  assure  you,  my  dear ,  I  have  often  wished  as  I  was  roaming  over  this  beau- 
tiful country,  that  you  were  with  me,  to  view  this  scene  in  all  its  glory,  to  cast 
your  eyes  over  a  boundless  tract  of  land,  on  which  stern  Winter  has  cast  his  fleece- 
white  mantle,  to  feel  the  west  wind  blowing  on  your  cheek,  and  to  experience  that 
thrill  of  pleasure  which  the  sight  of  those  grand  and  mighty  prairies  alone  can 
bestow.  But  perhaps  you  will  see  them  at  a  more  propitious  period.  Come,  when 
Flora  casts  her  garlands  o'er  the  land, — Come, 

"  When  universal  Pan 
Knit  with  the  graces  and  the  hours  in  dance, 
Leads  on  the  gentle  Spring." 

Come,  when  the  prairie  flower  is  in  blossom — come  when  "  the  rank  grass  is  wav- 
ing in  billowy  pride."  Come  when  the  chain  that  now  binds  these  sluggish  streams 
is  loosed,  and  hear  them  laugh  and  merrily  sing  as  they  journey  on  to  the  ocean. 
Come  then  and  view  this  rich,  this  growing,  this  flourishing  country — examine  its 
resources.  See  the  field  that  is  opened  for  enterprize  and  talent — look  at  the 
laurels  which  can  be  gained  by  exertion  here,  reflect  on  its  increasing  greatness, 
and  the  influence  it  is  destined  to  exert  upon  our  common  country ;  and  my  word 
for  it,  a  city  life  will  lose  its  charms,  and  you  will,  without  a  sigh,  bid  it  farewell, 
take  up  your  staff,  and  come  and  pitch  your  tent  in  the  great — the  growing — the 
mighty — the  boundless  West 


No.  III. 

A  Snow-Storm  on  the  Prairie. 

Peoria,  (111.)  Feb.  8, 1837. 

"Now  sharp  Boreas  blows  abroad,  and  brings 
The  dreary  winter  on  his  frozen  wings ; 
Beneath  the  low-hung  clouds,  the  sheets  of  snow 
Descend,  and  whiten  all  the  fields  below." 

Such  was  the  burden  of  my  song  when  I  awoke  from  a  most  refreshing  slumber, 
and  saw  large  white  flakes  descending,  and  the  whole  country  covered  with  the 
snowy  garb  of  winter.  It  is  oft-times  a  very  pleasant  employment  to  watch  the 
progress  of  a  snow-storm,  but  then  you  must  be  sheltered  from  its  violence,  for  I 
assure  you,  you  cannot  at  all  sentimentalize  when  you  are  breasting  its  fury,  and 
have  a  long  and  dreary  journey  before  you.  However,  this  morning  I  was  in  a 
peculiarly  good  humour,  and  disregarding  the  solicitations  of  my  friends,  who 
begged  me  to  remain  until  the  storm  had  abated,  I  determined  to  resume  my 
journey.  Soon  the  merry  jingle  of  the  sleigh-bell  announced  to  me  that  my  vehi- 
cle was  at  the  door  of  my  friend's  hospitable  mansion — into  it  I  sprung  with  joy- 


A  RAMBLER  IN  THE  WEST.  137 


ous  gaiety,  and  away  we  flew  over  the  broad  and  boundless  prairie.  My  noble 
steed  seemed  to  feel  a  new  excitement  as  he  inhaled  the  fresh  morning  breeze, 
which  lent  life  and  vigour  to  every  nerve. 

A  prairie  is  most  beautiful  in  "  the  spring  time  of  year,"  for  then  it  is  a  garden 
formed  and  cultivated  by  nature's  hand,  where  spring  the  clustering  flowers  which 
bloom  in  rich  luxuriance,  and  "shed  their  fragrance  on  the  desert  air."  But  when 
stern  winter  casts  her  mantle  over  the  earth,  and  binds  the  streams  in  icy  fetters, 
then  a  prairie  is  a  spectacle,  grand  and  sublime,  and  will  well  repay  for  the  hard- 
ships and  privations  of  Western  travelling.  I  was  compelled,  however,  to  ride 
against  the  wind,  which  whistled  around  and  blew  directly  in  my  face.  So  violent 
was  the  storm  that  I  was  almost  blinded  by  the  thick  flakes  that  were  dashed  di- 
rectly in  my  .eyes.  Had  I  acted  with  prudence,  I  should  have  discontinued  my 
journey,  and  made  myself  comfortable  for  the  remainder  of  the  day  at  the  log  hut 
where  I  dined — but  I  determined,  in  spite  of  wind  and  weather,  to  reach  Peoria 
by  night.  Whilst  progressing  quietly  on  my  way,  gray  twilight  extended  her 
evening  shades  on  earth.  Still  I  drove  on,  anxious  to  reach  my  point  of  destina- 
tion. Not  a  single  star  peeped  out  from  the  heavens  to  shed  its  light  on  a  benight- 
ed traveller.  The  storm  increased  in  violence,  and  the  cold  winds  whistled  a 
wintry  tune.  I  now  found  I  had  strayed  from  the  road,  and  here  was  I  on  a  broad 
prairie,  without  mark  or  mound,  and  had  lost  the  trace,  which  was  ere  now  covered 
by  the  falling  snow. 

Unfortunately  I  had  left  my  compass  behind,  and  now  I  was  on  a  broad  sea 
without  a  chart  or  compass,  and  without  one  stray  light  in  the  heavens  whereby  to 
direct  my  course.  The  mariner,  when  tossed  upon  the  billows  of  the  stormy  ocean, 
has  at  least  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  where  he  is,  for  the  needle  will  always  point 
to  the  pole,  and  his  chart  v\  .  ell  him  of  the  dangers  in  his  path — but  the  weary 
traveller,  who  has  lost  his  way  on  a  Prairie,  is  on  a  boundless  sea,  where  he  can- 
not even  tell  the  direction  he  is  pursuing,  for  oft-times  he  will  travel  hour  after  hour, 
and  still  remain  at  nearly  the  same  point  from  which  he  started.  Had  even  one 
accommodating  star  beamed  in  the  heavens,  I  should  not  have  been  the  least  dis- 
concerted, for  then  I  could  have  some  object  whereby  to  guide  my  steps.  But  all 
the  elements  combined  against  me,  and  I  assure  you  my  feelings  were  by  no  means 
comfortable.  Memory  ran  over  the  sad  history  of  the  numerous  travellers,  who 
had  been  overtaken  by  night,  and  been  buried  in  the  falling  snow;  many  who  had 
started  in  the  morning  full  of  gay  hopes  and  buoyant  anticipations,  who,  ere  another 
sun  had  risen,  had  found  a  cold  and  solitary  grave — arrested  in  their  course  by  the 
chill  and  icy  hand  of  death.  Alas,  thought  I,  how  true  it  is, 

"For  them  no  more  the  blazing  hearth  shall  burn —  , 

Or  busy  housewife  ply  her  evening  care ; 
No  children  run  to  lisp  their  sire's  return — 
Or  climb  his  knee,  the  envied  kiss  to  share." 

Insensibly  I  felt  a  strong  inclination  to  sleep — I  had  always  heard  that  this  was  a 
dangerous  symptom,  and  if  I  yielded  to  its  influence,  my  life  would  certainly  be 
lost  I  endeavoured  to  shake  off  the  drowsy  feeling.  Never  before  have  I  expe- 
rienced such  a  strong  inclination  to  sleep.  Never  before  did  I  exert  myself  more 
to  keep  awake.  I  halloed — I  shouted — I  beat  my  breast  to  preserve  animation, 
and  tried  every  method  to  prevent  my  yielding  to  the  drowsy  influence.  My  noble 
horse  was  almost  exhausted,  and  I  myself  began  to  despair  of  reaching  a  place  of 
shelter— when  suddenly  a  ray  of  light  beamed  upon  the  snow,  and  shed  a  shadow 
around  me.  Encouraged  by  this  favourable  token,  I  urged  on.  My  jaded  steed 
also  seemed  to  know  that  he  was  approaching  a  place  of  shelter,  for  he  quickened 
his  pace,  and  shortly  afterwards  I  discovered  at  a  distance,  a  small  log-hut,  from 
whose  window  beamed  a  broad  blaze  of  light.  Soon  was  I  at  the  door,  and  warm- 
ly welcomed  by  the  kind  owner,  who  shook  the  snow  from  my  garments,  and  gave 
me  a  seat  before  a  blazing  fire. 

Oh,  how  delightful  was  the  sense  of  security  as  I  sat  sheltered  from  the  wintry 
blast,  and  listened  to  the  tales  of  the  inmates,  many  of  whom  had,  like  me,  been 
overtaken  by  the  storm,  and  now  were  relating  the  events  of  their  journey.  I  have 
passed  many  delightful  evenings  in  the  course  of  a  short  but  eventful  life — I  have 

S  I-**  T~~ 


138  LETTERS  FROM 


been  at  the  festive  board,  where  the  wine-cup  was  pushed  merrily  around,  and 
song,  and  laughter,  and  merriment  abounded — I  have  mingled  in  the  society  of  the 
gay — I  have  been 

"  Where  youth  and  pleasure  meet 
To  chase  the  glowing  hours  with  flying  feet." 

But  never  have  I  passed  a  more  happy  evening  than  in  the  small  and  narrow  cabin  j 
of  that  Illinois  farmer. 


No.  IV. 

Peoria — Illinois — The  West. 

Peoria,  Feb.  8, 1837. 

Early  on  the  ensuing  morning  I  arrived  at  Peoria.  Peoria  is  situated  on  the 
Illinois  river,  and  is  in  very  truth  a  most  beautiful  site  for  a  town.  A  few  miles 
above,  the  river  expands  in  a  lake,  upon  the  banks  of  which  it  is  situated.  The 
approach  to  the  town  is  through  alternate  wood-land  and  prairie.  It  is  the  county- 
town  of  Peoria  county,  and  has  a  bright  prospect  of  rapidly  increasing.  It  now 
has  a  population  of  fifteen  hundred,  and  boasts  of  a  large  and  commodious  court- 
house and  several  fine  mansions.  It  commands  at  all  seasons  an  unbroken  water 
communication  with  St  Louis,  and  is  situated  in  a  most  delightful  country.  Its 
trade  now  is  brisk,  but  it  will  increase  in  a  ten-fold  degree  upon  the  completion  of 
the  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal.  • 

The  highly  respectable  and  talented  author  of  "  A  Winter  in  the  West,"  in  one 
of  his  letters  in  1834,  expresses  the  following  sentiments  in  reference  to  this 
work:  "The  State  of  Illinois,  judging  from  the  progress  already  made,  will  not 
complete  the  canal  for  half  a  century.  The  want  of  capital  is  here  so  great,  as 
almost  to  seal  up  every  outlet  for  enterprize,  though  they  present  themselves  on 
every  side,  and  our  eastern  capitalists  are  so  completely  ignorant  of  the  prodigious 
resources  of  this  region,  that  it  will  be  long  ere  this  defect  will  be  supplied."  To 
a  part  of  this  assertion  we  are  obliged  to  enter  our  dissent,  while  to  a  part  we 
will  most  cordially  assent 

There  exists  no  doubt  on  my  mind,  that  this  great  and  important  work  will  be 
completed  in  five  years;  which,  considering  the  immense  magnitude  of  the  under- 
taking, is  certainly  a  short  time.  Every  effort  is  now  making  to  hasten  its  comple- 
tion. A  large  part  of  it  is  under  contract,  and  labourers  are  at  work  upon  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  the  line.  The  Commissioners  are  men  of  acknowledged  ' 
talent  and  integrity,  and  there  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  the  state,  feeling  a 
just  and  praiseworthy  pride  in  the  construction  of  this  grand  link  in  the  chain  of 
internal  improvements,  will  urge  its  immediate  completion.  But  we  do  agree 
with  the  author  referred  to,  that  our  eastern  capitalists  are  completely  ignorant  of 
the  resources  of  this  region. 

Eastern  capitalists  cannot  realize  the  great  opportunities  that  every  day  present 
themselves  for  safe  and  profitable  investment,  and  the  great  returns  received  for 
capital  invested.  With  many  the  opinion  is  prevalent,  that  the  accounts  received 
through  the  medium  of  the  press,  are  but  the  "puffs"  of  adventurous  speculators, 
who  by  this  method  "  crack  up"  their  property,  with  the  design  of  defrauding  in- 
nocent purchasers.  That  this  system  has  been  most  extensively  pursued,  cannot 
be  denied ;  but  that  this  country  is  destined  to  advance  most  rapidly  in  the  scale 
of  importance,  and  that  investments  judiciously  made  now,  will  insure  a  great  profit, 
can  be  shown  to  the  satisfaction  of  any  reasoning  mind. 

Take  out  your  map,  and  look  at  this  noble  state ;  look  at  its  geographical  situa- 
tion, between  37  and  42  deg.,  N.  lat. ;  see  the  mighty  Mississippi  rolling  its  swift 
and  turbid  current  along  the  western  borders;  look  at  the  Wabash  pursuing  its 
silent  way  along  the  eastern  side;  see  the  "Beautiful  River"  washing  the  southern 
boundary ;  and  look  at  that  calm  and  placid  stream,  so  properly  denominated  "  a 
natural  canal  through  a  natural  meadow,"  dividing  the  state  and  extending  far  and 
wide  its  fertilizing  influence.  What  portion  of  our  country  is  better  watered  or 


A  RAMBLER  IN  THE  WEST.  139 


more  capable  of  commanding  a  great  hydraulic  power  1  Reflect  upon  the  face  of 
the  country  and  the  nature  of  its  soil.  Here  are  no  high  and  barren  hills,  or  thick 
and  dense  woodlands,  but  broad  and  rolling  prairies. 

The  state  of  Ohio  will,  at  the  next  census,  rank  the  third  state  in  the  confede- 
racy ;  I  mean  as  regards  wealth  and  population — and  yet  what  immense  labour 
was  required  "to  clear"  a  large  portion  of  her  territory,  and  then,  at  her  early 
settlement,  we  had  but  a  capital  stock  of  six  millions  of  souls.  And  if  Ohio  in 
thirty  years  rank  as  the  third  state  in  this  Union,  I  ask  what  time  will  it  require 
for  a  state  to  stand  beside  her— where  the  ground  is  already  prepared  by  nature's 
hand  for  the  farmer — when  we  have  a  capital  stock  of  over  thirteen  millions,  and 
when  the  facilities  for  emigration  are  ten-fold  increased.  Besides,  Illinois  contains 
a  larger  quantity  of  ricli  land  than  any  other  state,  and  therefore  can  maintain  a 
large  agricultural  population,  which  is  the  great  basis  of  national  wealth.  These 
things  being  considered,  can  we  doubt  that  ere  long  these  beautiful  prairies  will  be 
adorned  by  the  home  of  the  settler — will  re-echo  the  shrill  whistle  of  the  plough- 
man, as  he  "  homeward  plods  his  weary  way,"  or  the  glad  and  joyous  song  of  the 
reaper,  as  he  gathers  in  the  golden  harvest? 

Can  we  doubt  that,  ere  long,  Illinois  will  stand  among  her  sister  states — "her 
brow  blooming  with  the  wreath  of  science,  her  path  strewed  with  the  offerings  of 
art,  her  temples  rich  in  unrestricted  piety,"  her  prairies  waving  with  the  fruits  of 
agriculture,  her  noble  streams  bearing  upon  their  bosoms  the  produce  of  every 
clime,  her  borders  filled  with  a  ricli  *id  thriving  population,  attached  to  the  insti- 
tutions of  our  fathers ;  lovers  of  rational  and  enlightened  liberty,  and  {reflecting 
honour  and  glory  upon  our  common  country.  But  I  must  pause ;  my  eyes  grow 
heavy — my  candle  has  almost  burnt  to  its  socket — and  I  must  bid  you  good  night. 
For  now, 

"The  lamp  of  day  is  quench 'd  beneath  the  deep, 
Aud  soft  approach  the  balmy  hours  of  sleep." 


No.  V. 
The  East — The  West — Enterprize — Agriculture. 

Springfield,  (HI.)  Feb.  27,  1837. 

Here  am  I  at  the  neat  and  pretty  town  of  Springfield,  a  place  of  considerable 
trade,  and  containing  a  truly  kind  and  hospitable  population.  The  journey  from 
Peoria  to  Springfield  was  most  delightful.  The  air  was  pure  and  balmy — the 
heavens  were  blue — the  roads  were  in  fine  order,  and  the  "tout  ensemble"  was 
(to  use  a  western  term)  "  gorgeous."  I  am  now  snuely  ensconced  in  a  comfortable 
room,  and  intend  to  entertain  you  with  a  few  detached  and  unconnected  thoughts — 
and  I  will  commence  by  saying,  that  the  period  of  the  year  is  fast  approaching, 
when  the  tide  of  emigration  rolls  to  the  western  world.  As  soon  as  the  streams 
that  now  are  bound  by  winter's  chain,  are  loosed — as  soon  as  the  noble  steamers, 
that  "  walk  the  waters  like  a  thing  of  life,"  are  plying  up  and  down  our  rivers,  the 
numbers  of  emigrants  who  will  come  to  this  land  of  promise,  will  far  exceed  that 
of  any  previous  year.  It  is  not  merely  the  oppressed  and  afflicted  of  foreign  climes, 
who  have  left  their  native  hills  for  this  land  of  peace  and  plenty ;  but  many  of  our 
most  enterprizing  citizens,  actuated,  some,  by  a  desire  to  improve  their  fortunes, 
and  others  by  that  truly  American  spirit — the  love  of  rambling  (for  we  are  truly  a 
migratory  people,)  will  forsake  their  own  comfortable  homes,  to  examine  the  pros- 
pects of  this  much  talked  of,  much  written  of,  and  far-famed  country. 

That  those  who  possess  sufficient  intelligence,  to  appreciate  and  understand  the 
advantages  of  this  country,  and  a  spirit  of  enterprize  that  will  support  them  under 
the  privations  they  must  necessarily  encounter,  will  be  charmed  and  gratified  with 
their  western  tour,  I  have  no  doubt;  nor  do  I  question  that  Illinois,  in  the  progress 
of  another  year,  will  rank  among  her  citizens,  many  of  the  most  intelligent  and 
enterprizing  of  our  sister  states.  That  this  country  possesses  advantages  of  a  most 
important  character,  and  offers  many  attractions  to  the  youthful  adventurer — to  him 


140  LETTERS  FROM 


ivho  would  acquire  both  thine  and  fortune,  can,  I  think,  easily  be  shown,  and  I  would 
n-esent  a  few  considerations  tending  to  illustrate  the  subject. 

And  I  will  premise  by  saying,  that  there  is  no  truth  more  evident  to  the  reflect- 
ng  mind,  than  tlrat  in  this  transatlantic  world,  every  one  must  be  the  architect  of 
lis  own  fortune-— no  matter  what  course  of  life  is  adopted,  be  it  professional  or  me- 
chanical, the  basis  upon  which  every  hope  of  future  eminence  must  rest  is,  diligent, 
untiring,  persevering  application.  Assuming  this  fact  as  granted,  I  would  refer  to 
he  superiority  of  the  western  portion  of  our  continent  over  the  eastern,  as  regards 
:he  acffuisition  of  wealth — professional  eminence — political  distinction,  and  the 
opportunity  offered  of  exercising  influence  an  society  and  the  destinies  of  our  com- 
mon country. 

As  respects  the  acquisition  of  wealth — the  great  basis  of  all  wealth  is  the  agri- 
cultural interest,  and  that  country  must  be  the  richest,  which  is  the  most  capable 
of  sttpportingkthe  largest  agricultural  population.  Land,^ich  and  fertile  soil,  is  the 
foundation  of\.  nation's  glory.  It  is  true,  that  commerce  tends  much  to  enrich  a 
people,  and  large,  nay,  immense  fortunes,  have  been  made  in  the  pursuit  of  trade. 
But  who  does  not  know  the  mutations  of  trade  ? — who  is  not  cognizant  of  the  fluc- 
tuations of  commerce  ]  who  is  ignorant  of  the  fact,  that  he  who  is  engaged  in  com- 
mercial transactions  may  to-day  be  master  of  thousands,  and  roll  in  splendour  and 
luxury,  and  to-morrow  be  a  bankrupt,  and  know  not  where  to  lay  his  head?  Do 
you  seek  for  the  evidence  of  this  fact  ?  Go  to  any  of  our  large  cities  and  inquip6, 
and  you  will  find  the  sad  truth  written  in  indelible  characters,  so  plain  that  he  who 
runs  may  read. 

Now  none  of  these  mutations  and  fluctuations  afflict  the  agricultural  or  producing 
class  of  society — no  panics  or  pressures  occur  among  them — a  stormy  sea  cannot 
swallow  up  their  earnings,  nor  a  raging  fire  destroy  the  toil  of  years.  The  seed 
is  dropped  into  the  ground,  and,  "He  who  tempers  the  wind  to  the  shorn  lamb," 
sends  the  genial  sunshine  and  refreshing  showers,  and  the  ripe  and  yellow  harvest 
awaits  the  labourer's  gathering. 

Now,  land  in  the  western  world  is  rich  and  fertile,  and  I  will  venture  to  say, 
that  the  soil  of  one  of  the  prairies  is  more  productive  than  any  soil  in  your  much 
loved  state,  not  even  excepting  the  far-famed  Lancaster  county,  where  the  toil  and 
labour  of  many  years  has  been  expended  in  improving  it.  This  rich  and  fertile 
soil  can  be  entered  at  SI .25  per  acre,  or  bought  "second-hand"  for  from  $2.50  to 
$3.50  per  acre.  And  it  has  been  proved  by  actual  experiment,  that  an  enterprizing 
settler  can  break  and  sow  80  acres,  and^rom  the  profits  of  his  crop  can  realize  a 
sufficient  sum  to  enter  and  pay  for  his  land  ;  thus  in  one  year,  by  the  toil  and  labour 
of  his  hand,  acquiring  a  fee-simple  title  to  a  fine  and  improving  farm.  In  what 
portion  of  the  eastern  states  can  this  be  done  1  "I  pause  for  a  reply."  Again — 
wealth  will  be  acquired  by  the~natural  increase  of  the  country. 

This  whole  region  (particularly  the  states  of  Illinois,  Michigan,  and  Wisconsin 
Territory,)  is  filling  up  with  great  and  unexampled  rapidity.  The  increase  of  the 
country  is  truly  wonderful,  and  one  who  has  not  witnessed  it  can  scarcely  believe 
it  The  growth  and  prosperity  of  Chicago  may  be  taken  as  a  fair  example  of  the 
unprecedented  increase  and  advancement  of  the  country.  Cities  and  towns  spring 
up  in  every  quarter,  and  a  mighty  tide  of  emigration  is  rolling  far  and  wide  its  fer- 
tilizing influence. 

A  small  sum  of  money  now  judiciously  invested,  will  increase  in  a  ratio  not  even 
dreamed  of  by  an  eastern  capitalist.  Speak  to  them  of  the  advantages  of  this  re- 
gion, and  they  smile,  and  tell  you,  you  are  exercising  the  powers  of  a  fertile  ima- 
gination. They  manifest  the  same  incredulity  as  was  exhibited  by  the  eastern 
monarch,  when  told  by  the  philosopher,  that  he  came  from  a  country  where  water 
became  congealed,  and  bore  upon  its  bosom,  men,  and  horses,  and  chariots.  The 
monarch  was  indignant,  that  any  one  should  attempt  (as  he  supposed)  to  impose 
upon  his  good  sense  and  experience ;  for  he  had  been  sunned  in  a  burning  clime 
and  there  the  streams  were  never  bound  by  winter's  chain,  but  were  ever  rolling 
their  turbid  waters,  and  yet  the  philosopher's  tale  was  no  less  true  than  strange — 
and  so  it  is  with  our  eastern  capitalists — they  can  form  no  idea  of  the  increase  am7 
unexampled  advancement  of  this  country,  for  it  is  unparalleled  in  the  annals  of  the 


A  RAMBLER  IN  THE  WEST.  141 


world ;  and  although  they  sometimes  think  they  are  very  wise  in  discrediting  our 
statements,  they  are  only  acting  from  a  principle  of  human  nature,  (which  is  truly 
illiberal  and  narrow,)  to  disbelieve  any  thing  that  is  contrary  to  their  preconceived 
opinions,  and  has  never  occurred  under  the  observation , of  their  senses. 

But  judging  of  the  future  by  the  past,  and  can  we  have  a  better  lamp  to  our 
steps  than  that  of  experience  '.'  what  may  we  not  anticipate  from  the  increase  of 
thi^  country !  It  seems  but  yesterday  that  the  Whole  valley  of  the  Mississippi  was 
a  wilderness,  untrodden,  save  by  the  moccasin  of  the  red  man,  where  the  silence 
and  solitude  of  nature  was  unbroken  save  by  the  shriek  of  the  wolf,  or  the  cry  of 
the  majestic  eagle, 

"  AB  he  gracefully  wheel'd  in  the  cloud-speckled  sky." 

Now,  as  if  by  work  of  enchantment,  mighty  states  have  there  arisen,  powerful 
in  wealth  and  population — sisters  of  a  common  confederacy,  and  reflecting  honour 
on  our  common  country — cities  and  towns  have  sprung  up  like  stars  above  the  ho- 
rizon, and  the  whole  scene  is  alive  with  the  industry  and  enterprize  of  man.  Why, 
I  ask,  will  not  land  in  Illinois  be  as  valuable  as  in  any  portion  of  the  Atlantic  states? 
Why  will  not  land  along  the  borders  of  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal  command 
as  high  a  price  as  that  upon  the  Erie  canal]  The  soil  is  far  more  productive,  re- 
quires less  toil  to  prepare  for  the  hand  of  the  farmer,  and  the  market  for  produce 
is  far  superior  to  any  in  the  east.  Does  any  one  pretend  to  say  that  lands  in  any 
portion  of  the  west  will  ten  years  hence  be  sold  for  $1.25  per  acre  1  if  so,  he  arrives 
at  that  conclusion  by  a  process  of  reasoning  which  I  cannot  understand.  To  the 
mechanic — to  the  labourer — to  the  working  classes  of  society,  this  fact  offers  great 
encouragement;  for  here  they  can  earn  large  wages,  and  the  small  sums  which 
.they  invest  will  increase  most  rapidly. 

Again,  wealth  depends  upon  economy.  It  is  the  prudent,  saving -man,  and  not 
the  prodigal,  who  acquires  a  fortune; — a  penny  saved  is  a  penny  earned,  was  the 
maxim  of  a  wise  philosopher,  and  its  truth  has  been  fully  tested.  Now,  in  a  new 
country,  fewer  temptations  are  in  your  path — fewer  opportunities  for  wasting  and 
squandering  the  wealth  earned  by  your  labour — fewer  inducements  are  presented 
tor  the  exhibition  of  extravagances  and  prodigality,  than  in  our  large  eastern  cities, 
where  luxury  is  the  reigning  vice — where  man  strives  as  the  object  of  his  highest 
ambition,  to  outrival  his  fellow  man  in  the  magnificence  of  his  equipage,  the  extra- 
vagance of  his  table,  and  the  brilliancy  of  his  entertainments. 

These  considerations,  then,  the  low  price  of  rich  and  fertile  soil,  the  certain  and 
great  increase  of  the  country,  and  the  want  of  opportunities  for  the  display  of  ex- 
travagance and  prodigality,  exhibit,  in  a  faint  degree,  the  superiority  of  the  west- 
ern country — the  young  and  rising  west — over  the  over-populated  and  already  ex- 
hausted east  If  then  wealth  be  the  object  of  pursuit — if  the  acquirement  of  a 
fortune  be  the  "  ultima  thule"  of  your  wishes,  here  is  the  field  upon  which  to  com- 
mence your  efforts — a  field  already  ripe  with  the  golden  harvest,  and  only  waiting 
the  labourer's  gathering. 


No  VI. 

The  Acquisition  of  Wealth — Young  Men  and  Old — Advantages  of  the  West. 

Jacksonville,  March  3,  1SJ7. 

In  my  last,  I  endeavoured  to  exhibit  the  superiority  of  the  Western  Country 
over  the  eastern,  as  regards  the  acquisition  of  wealth.  Unfortunately  for  us,  the 
desire  for  wealth  is  the  ruling  passion  of  our  nation — a  passion  developed  in  early 
life,  sanctioned  by  parental  admonition,  and  strengthened  by  each  advancing  year 
— almost  the  first  principle  instilled  into  the  youthful  mind,  is  the  importance  of 
wealth,  and  almost  the  first  object  to  which  the  youthful  energies  are  directed,  is 
the  acquisition  of  a  fortune.  We  will  not  stop  to  show  the  pernicious  influence 
which  this  universal  worship  at  the  shrine  of  Mammon  has  upon  the  morals,  the 
literary  tasto,  and  the  intellectual  greatness  of  our  people.  We  will  not  stop  to 


142  LETTERS  FROM 


exhibit  the  dangerous  tendency  of  this  money-making  spirit,  to  destroy  those  nice 
distinctions  between  right  and  wrong — to  vitiate  the  public  taste — to  impair  the 
force  of  native  intellect,  and  to  delay  the  glorious  triumphs  of  the  mind. 

This  fact  we  will  leave  to  an  abler  pen,  confident  that  our  feeble  efforts  would 
be  of  little  avail  in  checking  thajArdent  and  earnest  desire  for  wealth  so  prevalent 
through  the  land.  But  there  aflrthose  to  whom,  in  speaking  of  the  advantages  of 
a  new  country,  we  can  poinrto  higher  and  nobler  inducements  than  the  mere 
acquisition  of  worldly  goods — many  who  are  engaged  in  the  noble  employment 
of  cultivating  and  improving  the  human  intellect,  and  desire  a  broad  and  ample 
field  upon  which  to  exert  the  energies  of  that  immortal  mind  with  which  Provi- 
dence has  blessed  them. 

To  those  we  would  speak  in  the  language  of  affectionate  regard,  and  would  en- 
deavour to  convince  them  that,  if  they  desire  distinction  in  that  branch  of  science 
to  which  their  attention  has  been  directed — if  eminence  in  their  profession  is  the 
object  of  their  wishes,  that  they  have  only  to  summon  up  moral  courage  to  enter 
boldly  on  a  scene  of  action  which  will  inevitably  lead  to  happy  and  glorious  results. 
But  they  must  be  endued  with  the  spirit  of  lofty  determination  and  noble  resolu- 
tion— a  determination  that  will  brave  all  obstacles — a  resolution  that  will  support 
them  under  all  privations — not  that  weak  and  sickly  resolution  that  every  difficulty 
discourages,  and  every  obstacle  disheartens;  but  that  bold  and  manly  resolution 
which,  fixing  its  eagle  eye  upon  the  topmost  height,  determines  to  reach  the  des- 
tined mark,  and,  like  the  thunder-bearer  of  Jove,  when  storms  and  tempests  beat 
around,  soar  higher  and  loftier,  and  sustains  itself  by  the  force  and  sublimity  of  its 
own  elevation. 

Among  the  number  of  advantages  which  the  West  has  over  the  East,  may  be 
enumerated  the  following: — 

1.  In  the  Eag,  the  professions  are  monopolized  by  the  older  members — in  the 
WEST,  the  responsible  duties  of  the  professions  are  confided  to  the  young  men. 

2.  In  the  West,  greater  inducements  for  the  acquisition  of  a  fortune  being  held 
out  by  the  farming  or  agricultural  interest,  and  great  privations  having  necessarily 
to-be  encountered,  the  number  of  professional  men  is  FEWER  than  at  the  East,  and 
consequently  the  field  is  more  ample. 

3.  In  a  new  country,  every  thing  being  to  build  up  and  construct,  greater  oppor- 
tunity is  offered  for  the  exercise  of  professional  talent. 

4.  The  tendency  of  a  new  country  being  to  develope  and  bring  forward  youth- 
ful talent,  exerts  a  highly  favourable  influence  upon  boldness,  force,  and  originality 
of  intellect 

In  illustration  of  the  first  proposition,  we  need  but  appeal  to  the  experience  of 
every  young  professional  man.  How  few,  how  very  few,  even  of  our  most  active 
and  intelligent  young  men  can,  in  our  large  eastern  cities,  earn  a  respectable  live- 
lihood !  One  or  two  of  the  most  eminent  and  experienced  monopolize  the  most 
important  and  lucrative  portions  of  the  business.  The  community  look  up  to  them 
with  confidence,  for  they  believe  their  minds  are  matured  by  wisdom  and  ripened 
by  expedience,  and  the  young  men  are  permitted  to  remain  in  almost  total  inac-  i 
tivity. 

Here  and  there  an  instance  may  occur  of  a  young  man  of  high  and  noble  en- 
dowments entering  boldly  into  the  arena,  and,  by  the  force  of  his  intellect  and  the 
brilliancy  of  his  talents,  commanding  a  large  share  of  public  patronage ;  but  for 
one  who  thus  happily  has  burst  the  fetters  which  confine  and  restrain  the  youthful 
intellect,  how  many  have  toiled  and  struggled  in  the  lowly  vale  of  life,  then 
"dropped  into  the  tomb,  unhonoured  and  unknown!" — The  aged  and  experienced 
j  will  not  confide  their  business  to  youthful  heads,  for  they  cannot  realize  that  those 
whom  a  few  short  years. ago  they  dandled  on  the  knee,  or  saw  engaged  in  the 
simple  and  artless  amusements  of  early  childhood,  are  prepared  to  discharge  the 
high  and  responsible  duties  appertaining  to  a  profession. 

Now,  in  the  West  the  population  is  mostly  young,  consisting  chiefly  of  youthful 
adventurers,  who  have  left  their  peaceful  homes  with  the  determination  to  reap 
the  advantages  of  a  new  country.  A  young  professional  man  has  enlisted  in  his 
behalf,  not  the  cold  and  sordid  influence  of  those  whose  feelings  have  been  chilled 


A  RAMBLER  IN  THE  WEST.  143 


by  a  contact  with  a  selfish  world,  but  the  warm  and  glowing  feelings  of  early 
youth.  He  is  there  surrounded  not  by  the  aged  fathers  of  the  profession — those 
whose  brows  are  silvered  o'er  by  the  frosts  of  time — not  the  experienced  soldiers 
who  have  conquered  o'er  and  o'er  again  in  the  fight,  and  advance  to  the  contest 
confident  of  success;  but  he  beholds  himself  surrounded  by  his  equals — his  com- 
panions and  associates,  each  striving  to  gain  the  prize  of  public  approbation — each 
struggling  to  win  the  pure  and  spotless  laurels  which  will  crown  the  victor's  brow. 

In  illustration  of  the  second  proposition,  we  can  only  add,  that  there  can  be  no 
doubt  that  if  the  acquisition  of  wealth  be  the  object  of  pursuit,  greater  induce- 
ments are  held  out  by  the  farming  and  agricultural  interest.  A  professional  life  is 
at  all  times  a  life  of  toil,  and  he  who  aspires  to  its  highest  honours  must  remember 
that  they  are  only  to  be  attained  by  untiring  unremitting  effort.  The  pecuniary 
emoluments  are  small  compared  with  other  occupations  of  life,  and  he  who  desires 
professional  eminence  must  not  expect  to  reap  the  same  amount  of  this  world's 
good  as  he  whose  soul  is  engaged  in  the  pursuit  of  trade. 

Now  an  enterprising  emigrant,  when  he  leaves  his  native  tillage,  as  he  turns  to 
take  the  last  lingering  look  of  the  home  of  his  affections — as  he  beholds  the  spire 
of  the  village  church,  where  so  oft  he  has  worshipped  the  God  of  his  fathers,  glit- 
tering in  the  morning  sun,  the  last  wish  which  animates  his  bosom,  is  the  hope  of 
some  not  far  distant  day,  returning  to  the  scenes  of  his  childhood,  where  every 
object  brings  some  sweet  association,  laden  with  the  fruits  of  his  toil.  In  fine,  it 
is  wealth  that  he  hopes  to  attain,  and  it  is  the  prospect  of  reaping  golden  fruits 
which  enables  him  manfully  to  endure  the  privations  to  which  he  is  subjected. 
He  arrives  at  the  land  of  promise,  and  examines  the  prospect  of  improving  his  for- 
tune which  the  country  affords.  He  finds  that  the  tiller  of  the  soil  is  the  one  who 
reaps  the  most  productive  harvest,  and  no  matter  what  profession  he  may  have 
adopted, — no  matter  what  branch  of  science  may  have  -hitherto  occupied  his  atten- 
tion— he  relinquishes  its  pursuit — forgets  the  obligations  his  profession  imposes  on 
him,  and  forsakes  his  calling  to  assume  the  manly  and  independent,  but  at  the 
same  time  more  profitable  employment  of  the  farmer. 

But  few,  few  alas!  of  professional  men  of  the  proper  stamp  and  character  enVi- 
grate  to  a  new  country.  It  is  the  hardy  yeoman  and  independent  mechanic  who 
has  the  moral  courage  to  emigrate  to  a  new  but  growing  country.  The  young 
professional  man  is  unfortunately  too  attached  to  the  comforts  of  a  city  life.  He 
loves  his  ease  too  much  to  think  of  forsaking  the  attractions  and  fascinations  which 
have  thrown  their  spells  around  him,  and  he  will  content  himself  with  wasting  and 
squandering  the  precious  hours  of  youth,  (which  are  truly  the  wealth  of  future  re- 
membrance,) in  the  pursuit  of  the  phantom  pleasure,  which  will  forever,  like 
Creusa's  ghost,  fly  from  his  embrace.  In  the  East  the  professions  are  over-stocked, 
and  it  is  indeed  distressing  in  our  large  eastern  cities  to  see  the  large  number  of 
professional  young  men,  without  any  employment  to  occupy  their  time — frittering 
away  the  powers  of  their  intellect,  and  acquiring  habits  that  will  inevitably  tend 
to  prevent  attaining  either  standing  or  eminence  in  their  profession — when  if  they 
would  only  listen  to  the  voice  of  reason,  and  obey  its  dictates,  they  might  have  the 
certain  prospect  of  advancing  the  character  of  their  profession — being"  useful  to 
society — exercising  influence  on  our  country,  and  building  up  a  name 

"  That  long  shall  hallow  every  space, 
And  be  each  purer  soul's  high  resting  place." 

But  I  find  if  I  continue  the  subject  now,  I  shall  be  obliged  to  trespass  on  your 
limits.  Adieu. 

RAMBLER. 


THE   END. 


COLLEGIATE 

AND 


COMMERCIAL    SCHOOL, 


AT 


NEW   HAVEN,    CON. 

The  subscriber  and  his  brother,  assisted  by  approved  teachers 
of  Penmanship,  French  and  Spanish,  and  of  some  ornamental 
branches,  continue  to  receive  under  their  care  and  instruction  a 
select  number  of  boys,  and  thoroughly  prepare  them,  either  for  ad- 
mission to  College  or  for  Commercial  business. 

The  number  of  pupils  in  the  family  is  limited  to  about  twenty. 

The  buildings  belonging  to  the  school  are  pleasant  and  commo- 
dious, and  their  location  is  retired  and  beautiful. 

The  terms  are  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  a  year,  payable  semi- 
annually,  in  advance  ;  this  sum  is  in  full,  for  the  complete  accom- 
modation and  care  of  the  pupil  during  a  year,  excepting  vacations  ; 
including  boarding,  washing,  and  care  of  clothes,  use  of  rooms,  with 
suitable  furniture,  &c.;  also,  for  instruction  in  all  English  branches, 
and  in  the  Latin  and  Greek  languages.  Instructions  in  the  French 
and  Spanish,  and  in  all  ornamental  branches,  is  attended  with  an 
additional  charge. 

There  are  two  vacations  in  a  year;  one  of  three,  .weeks,  begin- 
ning on  the  first  Wednesday  in  April,  and  another  of  four  weeks, 
beginning  on  the  fourth  Wednesday  in  August. 

Besides  other  principal  citizens  of  New  Haven,  the  following 
gentlemen  may  be  referred  to  as  being  particularly  acquainted  with 
the  subscriber  and  his  school : — 


His  Exc.  Gov.  EDWARDS, 
PRESIDENT  DAY, 
Professor   SILLIMAN, 
KINGSLEY, 
GOODRICH, 
OLMSTED, 
GIBBS, 
WOOLSEY, 

October,  1837. 


Rev.   Dr.  CROSWELL, 

Rev.  Mr.  BACON, 

Dr.  J.  KNIGHT, 

Dr.  CHARLES  HOOKER, 

Mr.  AUGUSTUS  R.  STREET, 
"     FRANCIS  B.  WINTHKOP, 
"     S.  AUGUSTUS  MITCHELL, 
"     JAMES  BREWSTER. 

STILES  FRENCH. 


X 


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